Transmission and transfer case problem?

scoobysnax · **Posted:** Fri Jul 13, 2007 10:10 am

Hello everyone. I just picked up my new (to me) ’04 Limited three weeks ago. Its only got 28,000 mi. I love it however, I have two issues I wanted to ask about before I bring it back to the dealer

Hopefully I am posting this in the right section.

When in reverse and only when backing up on an incline the engine sputters a little bit. It’s as if I had a manual transmission and the car is at that in-between stage of not enough gas/clutch. People in the car can also feel it for a little bit before you give it more gas. The incline does not have to be much at all and it’s happens more often if I have the wheel hard over like you would when you are backing up to parallel park. This does not happen in drive at all regardless of the incline. Is this a problem on all liberty’s or just mine?

Next question is about my transfer case. I have the select track with the full time option

The other day it was pouring and it was the first time I used the full time for more than just a little clip to make sure it worked when I test drove it. It does work and so does the part time. However, I just noticed that after my foot is totally off the gas and then I get back on it there is a noticeable lag in the transfer case engaging the front drive shaft. The only way I can describe it is to picture a train, when the first car pulls out the freight car behind it won’t move until the coupler is grabbed and then that car jerks forward and so on down the line of freight cars. It’s not enough to jerk you head or anything like that and I don’t even think the passengers noticed it but I can feel it when I drive and it’s got me worried.

A while back I had a ’90 Cherokee (that was my first baby) also with the full time option. I think it’s the same transfer case and I never had this problem. So my questions: I know this can’t be a good thing but should I not use it until it’s repaired? I have to assume this is covered under the “drive-train” part of the warranty so I plan to have the dealer fix this. I just don’t want to get there and have them tell me it’s normal.

I also looked up the post on how to check your ball joints and plan to do that this weekend. Thanks to who ever posted that.

OK last question. In my ’90 Cherokee it was 10 years old when I bought her and had about 70,000 on the ticker. She was a champ and once time I accidentally ran over a 8” tree stump with my front wheel while going about 40 on a newly cut out road. I even stopped to see what I ran over b/c I shocked the wheel didn’t even get knocked off alignment let alone get ripped off. I will be babying my liberty a bit more and don’t plan to repeat adventures like that but would the liberty’s IFS be able to handle an impact like that? Do most people think it’s equally as strong as the old Cherokee or is the IFS weaker? (A note, I don’t want to start a debate on IFS or solid axel – but it seems like they beefed up this IFS and it appears to be equivalent in terms of strength to the Cherokee’s front set up.)

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks and this is a great site!

scoobysnax · **Posted:** Tue Jul 17, 2007 6:40 pm

Does anyone have any advice on this? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller...Bueller? :roll:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:59 pm

scoobysnax wrote:

Hello everyone. I just picked up my new (to me) ’04 Limited three weeks ago. Its only got 28,000 mi. I love it however, I have two issues I wanted to ask about before I bring it back to the dealer

Hopefully I am posting this in the right section.

When in reverse and only when backing up on an incline the engine sputters a little bit. It’s as if I had a manual transmission and the car is at that in-between stage of not enough gas/clutch. People in the car can also feel it for a little bit before you give it more gas. The incline does not have to be much at all and it’s happens more often if I have the wheel hard over like you would when you are backing up to parallel park. This does not happen in drive at all regardless of the incline. Is this a problem on all liberty’s or just mine?

Next question is about my transfer case. I have the select track with the full time option

The other day it was pouring and it was the first time I used the full time for more than just a little clip to make sure it worked when I test drove it. It does work and so does the part time. However, I just noticed that after my foot is totally off the gas and then I get back on it there is a noticeable lag in the transfer case engaging the front drive shaft. The only way I can describe it is to picture a train, when the first car pulls out the freight car behind it won’t move until the coupler is grabbed and then that car jerks forward and so on down the line of freight cars. It’s not enough to jerk you head or anything like that and I don’t even think the passengers noticed it but I can feel it when I drive and it’s got me worried.

A while back I had a ’90 Cherokee (that was my first baby) also with the full time option. I think it’s the same transfer case and I never had this problem. So my questions: I know this can’t be a good thing but should I not use it until it’s repaired? I have to assume this is covered under the “drive-train” part of the warranty so I plan to have the dealer fix this. I just don’t want to get there and have them tell me it’s normal.

I also looked up the post on how to check your ball joints and plan to do that this weekend. Thanks to who ever posted that.

OK last question. In my ’90 Cherokee it was 10 years old when I bought her and had about 70,000 on the ticker. She was a champ and once time I accidentally ran over a 8” tree stump with my front wheel while going about 40 on a newly cut out road. I even stopped to see what I ran over b/c I shocked the wheel didn’t even get knocked off alignment let alone get ripped off. I will be babying my liberty a bit more and don’t plan to repeat adventures like that but would the liberty’s IFS be able to handle an impact like that? Do most people think it’s equally as strong as the old Cherokee or is the IFS weaker? (A note, I don’t want to start a debate on IFS or solid axel – but it seems like they beefed up this IFS and it appears to be equivalent in terms of strength to the Cherokee’s front set up.)

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks and this is a great site!

As far for your 1st ?,I'd say it's normal since the 42RLE tranny you have only has a reverse gear ratio of 2.21:1 and 1st gear ratio of 2.84:1,the older KJ's with the 45RFE have 3:1 1st and reverse.The high reverse gear would be my guess,not enough gearing for steep reverse starts.
the 2nd ?,I would also say it's normal,remember you have a chain in the t-case and there will be some slack in the chain.When you let off the gas you are free wheeling(slack in the chain) and when you get back on the gas you you take the slack back out.Plus the select-trac t-case has a diff in the inside so it's not always sending power to the front wheels.
As far as #3 ?,yes and no,the basic IFS set-up for the KJ is strong but the front diff is weak due to being aluminum.

KJ4ME · **Posted:** Tue Jul 17, 2007 8:28 pm

i have an 07 libby and when reversing on an incline it does the lag/roll forward/subtle jerkiness thing so i wouldnt really worry bout that one

Guest · **Posted:** Tue Jul 17, 2007 10:15 pm

Yeah, the t-case is normal. the manual for my 2001 WJ said if you don't notice it engage, then pump the gas pedal once or twice & it should be fine.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Tue Jul 17, 2007 10:51 pm

Mine does everything you have described.

The only thing Im alittle confused about is the fact that you feel drive train slack while in full time. Its the opposite for me. I feel alot in 2wd but not in full time..

Idk if the IFS would take a stump as good as a SFA rig or not.. I would think the IFS would be knocked out of alignment alittle easier.

The IFS is beefier on the kj than most IFS rigs are. I was at a chevy dealer one day and noticed the kj's front suspension looks almost like that of a 2500 chevy truck. Although it did have grease fittings.

Rush345 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 17, 2007 11:48 pm

As for the front suspension I made the mistake (shortly after buying my used 02 Sport) of going into a corner too fast on the street. I hit the curb head on at about 25 MPH (Yes I admit I'm a Dumb A**) my own fault wasn't paying attention. Any way cracked the rim shredded the tire and did about $1500.00 of damage to the front suspension. Repairs were not done at the stealership but a independent shop in Lakewood Colorado who specializes in Dodge Chrysler and Jeep I have used him for years with my old Dakota. Anyway The jeeps suspension seems to be pretty heavy duty I don't think the Dakota would have faired as well with the same damage and it was a fair amount bigger then the KJ. Not to mention what I have learned from reading all these posts these little Jeeps can take one hell of a Lickin' and Keep on ticking after many of it's bigger Jeep brothers have bitten the dust.

sleeve84028 · **Posted:** Wed Jul 18, 2007 8:04 am

scoobysnax wrote:

Hello everyone. I just picked up my new (to me) ’04 Limited three weeks ago. Its only got 28,000 mi. I love it however, I have two issues I wanted to ask about before I bring it back to the dealer

Hopefully I am posting this in the right section.

First and foremost congratulations and welcome to LOST!

scoobysnax wrote:

However, I just noticed that after my foot is totally off the gas and then I get back on it there is a noticeable lag in the transfer case engaging the front drive shaft.

The non-turbo, turbo lag. Yeah, it's really pretty normal. The Jeep is just a little slower to react to your inputs and with yours you might even have a couple of electronic nanny's that hinder the engagement time a little more. But once you adjust to the time delay, you will absolutly love the Select Trac in the Liberty! You can cruise everywhere with it and not worry about weather conditions or road conditions [mind your speed!]

scoobysnax wrote:

I have to assume this is covered under the “drive-train” part of the warranty so I plan to have the dealer fix this. I just don’t want to get there and have them tell me it’s normal.

Covered under the 3/36 yes. but under an extended warranty I dunno

scoobysnax wrote:

Do most people think it’s equally as strong as the old Cherokee or is the IFS weaker? (A note, I don’t want to start a debate on IFS or solid axel – but it seems like they beefed up this IFS and it appears to be equivalent in terms of strength to the Cherokee’s front set up.)

The only weakpoint on the IFS is when you have the front tires spinning and catch soild pavement or a lot of traction that instantly causes them to grip the ground surface. A few people have split the aluminum housing wide open because of a lack of strenght in the pinion area. But with that in mind, I've never had a problem and you won't either if you aren't out there going full throttle trying to explode the front diff.

Will it take a curb impact. Sure it will - but the alignment will probably be off

scoobysnax wrote:

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks and this is a great site!

Welcome to the site!

scoobysnax · **Posted:** Wed Jul 18, 2007 9:57 am

Thanks for the replies. Still another question though. Most of my mechanical experience comes from my motorcycle days. I had a Suzuki GS 500 I learned on and then an ’01 Suzuki Bandit 1200s. The bandit was ridiculously modified and has making close to 142hp and around 92lb/ft (man I miss that thing.) With all that power I had issues with the chain getting stretched out quickly and had to upgrade it to a higher strength chain (I used a chain from a Bussa.) When I had the chain slack (off the gas chain would go slack – back on the gas chain would get tight resulting in a slight hesitation and a quick jerk) I was told that it was very bad for the gears (front and rear cogs) and that I could risk snapping the chain which on a bike is horrible.

If this is only happening in 4-full time I’ll assume there is a separate chain for the full time and another one for the part time? I have seen pictures of a cut open transfer case (not sure which one) in the Jeep catalogs but it looked like the chain was pretty snug. If it’s loose am at risk of putting excess wear on the gears within the transfer case? If so does it need to be fixed? Is it not an issue? Or should I just change my transfer case oil a little more frequently?

Oh, and I’m certain this is a transfer case issue (b/c it’s only in 4-full time) but will this “jerk motion” put extra stress on my auto transmission?

Also, to answer some statements I have seen other people make I do have some lag/jerk motion when I’m in 2-wheel but only when I’m in 1st gear moving slowly. When at a full stop to the gas it’s fine, when moving very slowly off the gas and then I get back on it there is a little jerk. I didn’t mention that at all b/c reading some of the other posts it seems normal for this Jeep. Too bad b/c I get stuck in traffic a lot here in the city.

Thanks again for the responses.

sleeve84028 · **Posted:** Wed Jul 18, 2007 2:40 pm

I don't think it is very easy to stretch the chain inside the T-case.... But if it does make you worried, take a ride over to the dealer and have it checked out. Should be free if you recently purchased the KJ where you take it in [to have the service checked]

Transmission and transfer case problem?

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