recived an e-mail this morning stating

Six inch lift kit up date 8-30-07
I finished the testing of the long control arms on the rear of my Liberty. The original handling is back, you do have the feel and affects of the big tires. I can take corners at high speeds and no body roll. At no time in the testing did I feel out of control with bumps or corners. It is a sweet ride!!


My wife loves to drive my KJ! It handles superbly with the long control arms and the factory sway bar.



What is in the complete kit?



§ Front strut kit

§ Al’s A-arms New Gen 4

§ 2” sub frame for under K frame

§ Steering knuckle extension

§ Transfer case cross member shim plates

§ Y link for on top or rear axel

§ Long control arms on rear axel w/ factory sway bar

§ Longer drive shaft

§ Rear shocks and coil springs

§ Steering rod extension

§ Longer brake hoses

§ Removing inner front wheel wells if using 33” tires

§ Re-gearing axels 4:10,1 or 4:56,1



Options

§ Factory rubber bushings or Johnny Joints

§ Front strut adapters to use with other lift kits

§ Adapter plates to use factory Y link

§ Differential Locker for off road use

everything is bolt on !!!!!!!!!!!I am now working on the rear springs.



We are shooting for a release date of September 24th



Thanks

Marlin Gehman

sounds good but real world testing will be the key! I know Al did the start of this kit but it is way beyond now so hope its good would like to see some SPY photos though

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

It's not on Marlin's website anymore (looks like he did a lot of updating recently), but he had the 4" lift strut assemblies for sale, and IIRC it was like $1400 for both. That list of parts just doesn't seem like it will total to anything less than $3K, IMO. Hopefully it's quality, though. That's all that will matter, even if it is pricey

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2003 Limited, Silver - L.O.S.T. # 068957 Rockies
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2127390/14
2006 Kawasaki KLR650

4.10's are the lowest you can go with the Dana30A front diff,4.56's are out unless you swap in a different front diff.You'd be sucking with 33" tires(or bigger) with 4.10's,I'm sucking with 4.10's and 32" tires.

tj, did the 4.10 rear gear swap net you any difference in pick up ?

the 265/75's are sucking the life out of the kj, if the 4.10's help in that arena, I'm willing to get em' swapped out in the future...

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2004.5 dodge qclb
smarty powered / isspros
2005 sivler lj
http://s303.photobucket.com/albums/nn13 ... ider_2008/

The 4.10's made a huge difference but I'm still sucking cause the OEM wheels and tires wiegh like 40-45lbs and my steel rim and "D" range tires wiegh in at over 90lbs a piece,plus with my KJ tipping the scales at over 5400lbs doesn't help much,I would have loved to go to 4.56's but it's not a option for the Dana30A,going to 5.13's for the SFA swap with 35" tires though,sad part is the 35" tires and the rims I'm getting will be lighter then the ones I have now .To put me back to stock I would need 4.88 gears with the 35" tires but decided for a little more get up and go in town so going with the 5.13's.You don't need more HP just need to get the gearing right when adding wieght and bigger tires,just the Dana30A is the biggest preventer of getting the low end power back on a KJ after bigger tires .

I'm thinking about adding ARB front bumper to my KJ and that will bring additional weight to it (already have the rear RL bumper). You think I should go to 4.10 gears with the Moab + MTR's I have on right now? It's feeling a little clunky these days.

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DIRTY KJ :: flickr photostream
"Primitive life is very common and intelligent life is fairly rare ... some would say it has yet to occur on Earth" --- Stephen Hawking

I can't say it would be or would not be a good idea since going to 4.10's in a KJ is not cheap,that is your choice.I did it because I knew I would be keeping my KJ and would need all the help I can get for the trails here in CO,never doubted the cost for the change at all and would do it again if needed.If you think the gains will outway the cost then go for it,if your not keeping the KJ for a long time I wouldn't to it.It'll just suck more gas and be harder on the tranny that's all,but if your not keeping it for a long time it is a pricy mod,but it was worth it for me.

Is that a front differential locker being referred to in the optional section? A selectable locker would be nice up there.

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It may be that your only purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others.

06 CRD Sport
Built 5/11/06
Jeep Green
Rocklizard diff cover
V6 Airbox

It's about $600 for both front D30 and 8.25 rear gears, or do I need something else as well?

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DIRTY KJ :: flickr photostream
"Primitive life is very common and intelligent life is fairly rare ... some would say it has yet to occur on Earth" --- Stephen Hawking

See I can not really see it being worth it to do all that work ( 6 inch lift) and like discussions already only be able to go with 4.10s I want to change mine out as soon as possible, (hint hint tjkj2002) but will not go any higher due to the gears, I have run 35s and 4.10s before its no fun in the long run. So UNTIL someone comes up with lower gears for the front we are stuck unless you want just a mall queen!
my opinions only of course!

Tom

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Master install kits,if I remember right you have to purchase the front D30A stuff as individule parts(not kit,and the regular D30 kit does not work) which is $$$$,and of course labor.Lockers as well since your ripping it all apart .

As other people have pointed out, we here at LOST aren't used to seeing working bigger lifts that consist of more than just new shocks, struts, and coils. In general, lifting any coil-sprung rig more than 3" means you have don't just need to replace shocks and coils, you replace some or all of your control arms, brake lines, and need to buy a new slip-yoke eliminator and driveshafts (depending on amount of lift). Of course, since the lift is for bigger tires, you'll need to get lower gears for your diffs as some LOST members have found out already. Your average joe who wants to lift his whatever-rig more than a couple inches expects all these additional modifications on-top of the actual lift.
If this lift is quality and not outrageously priced, then I think we'll have more LOST members in the '4" IFS club' than in the 'crazy SFA-swap club' (all due respect guys). Those of us who want the bigger IFS lift will just have to do what people have been doing on TJs and XJs for forever now. Either way, MORE MODS=BETTER

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2003 Limited, Silver - L.O.S.T. # 068957 Rockies
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2127390/14
2006 Kawasaki KLR650

IF its a good lift and with well tested parts then yes that is good for us all, just pointing out that with out lower gears in at least 4.56/4.88s then I think a lot of people will be disappointed after spending that kind of money. The "crazy SFA swap club" is the only way to go to be able to run a good size tire , with the proper gearing now and maybe for quite a while.

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

The adapter playe for the stock rear "Y-Link" might be nice for our current lifts if it puts the angles back to stock...

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Founder of L.O.S.T.
2006 CRD Sport
Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph

If you had a Turbo Diesel 4:10's would be just fine

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Feb/2006 Silver Sport 4x4 CRD

It would help but I bet the CRD's will be sucking to if you put 33"+ tires on it,even with 4.10's,it's not a huge jump from the 3.73's already in them.

I think you're going to need to build your entire drivetrain with either the gas or the CRD with tires that big and heavy. Don't the CRD's already grenade the torque converter sometimes while just driving down the road, or did they get that fixed?

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June 2001 Liberty Limited 4X4
Frankenlift II Premium, Al's Upper Arms, 245/75R16 C Silent Armors on Moabs, RL Skink Super Sliders, Rear DTT, Riddler Diff Cover, Fastman Throttle Body, Profinish-Proglass Hood, Borla Dual Outlet Exhaust, TransGo Reprogramming Kit, APS Stall Converter, 4.10 Gears, B&G Chrysler PCM, Lots of Line-X, etc...

I got it fixed . Ironically, they grenaded on the highway, in lockup-- because the lockup clutch was speced by the accounting department. If they were driven off road and never in lockup, they might have lasted fine.

My 31's with stock 3:73's gears feel fine. I have tons of power and no loss of mileage. I would almost run 3:55's with them. I can't imagine 33's with 4:10's would be that bad. The CRD is a torque monster

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Feb/2006 Silver Sport 4x4 CRD