I just don't see how. If the shaft fits, 23 splines 2" or less deep, and the case bolts to the transmission, I don't see how it would.

Like I have asked in other posts
Why?
going from the 231 to the 242 is a step backwards in strength and reliabilaty
the 242 tend to go out and get stuck in 4wd part time thus you are forced to use 4wd full time
and drink gas or rebuild the T-case (They dont go back in to 2wd)
ask the guys with high milage XJ's and the 242
They all end up with a 231 swap

Now there is an added bonus to the 231
TERA LOW or 4 to 1
yes you could do this mod to the 231 in a KJ you will have to have your drive shafts rebuilt but it can be done
how ever you can NOT do this with a 242
you can not even do a SYE on a 242

I must just look at Jeep different than the rest of the world

First no matter what drive position the T-case is in the power still goes through the T-case
second the "bind" that people worry about is caused when the 2 front tires and the 2 rear tires all turn at different speeds
like in a turn

Now I will tell you this
I have wheeled places where I could get great traction ,on hard rocks, and had the front and rear diff's locked in 4low
and turned the wheel full cock and nothing exploded nothing broke
the tires just slid on the rock
sure it made some racket and I would not recomend doing it but why would you?
we live in the south and it rains 2-3 times a week and with GOOD tires we NEVER use 4wd full time

any way

Jason I'm of the same opinion as far as being locked, or even just being in PT 4wd is concerned - i think a lot of people get way to paranoid about using PT 4wd. Anyhow, I am familiar with the typical, front axle/rear axle bind that can occur in a turn due to differing wheel speeds. But as far as some type of mechanical binding *between* the manual transmission and a swapped-in FT transfer case is concerned, does that in any way make sense or was the mech. handin' me a line of crap? He said that it would result is major difficulties shifting under certain conditions.

I also agree that the PT transfer case is stronger. For me, I wanted to swap to a FT trans case for winter driving conditions that can cause you to have to do a lot of shifting in and out with the PT trans case.

cheers.

(srry guys didnt mean to hijack the topic!)

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Steve

YES the stick shift will get stuck in gear or bind if it is under a load and probably thud when you press the cluch
but that is not a reason why it will not work with a full time T-case
it could cause U-joints to fail premature tho

Well, since you live in an area that hasn't seen snow accumulation for probably about 200 years, you probably do look at the Jeep a bit different than someone who lives with noreasters in NJ, or long cold winters in MN.

Having had a 231 crap out on me, & never a 242 problem; plus knowing that YES a 231 is stronger than a 242, but only by about 15%, & both are way stronger than what a KJ can dish out, I grow so very tired of that argument! So a few guys with high milage XJs had to replace their 242... I had to replace my low milage 231! When you own something mechanical, you will have to fix it someday.

Thanks a lot for everyone's input

I agree with cost being the main reason why DCX kept the 242 off the manual trans.
I am glad to hear that the switch to full time will solve my problems of constantly going in and out of part time. In the past I would have to switch in the 4 wheel just to get in to my driveway, where as my FWD van would pull up the little hill no problem.

My plan is to get it done in a month or so (before the snow flies), sometime between my son's hockey and soccer games.
Either way I will be selling one of the two transfer cases on ebay, once everything is shifting smoothly.



Thanks

Derek

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2003 Black KJ Sport
5spd 3.7L
Rocky Mountain Element FS

^^I'll be very interested to see a writeup/nice long post filled with pictures about how this goes. I'd be interested in the same swap, with my 6 speed manual.

Although ideally, I'd be driving a CRD with the 6 speed and 242 xfer case...

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2006 Sport 4X4, Deep Beryl Green, NSG370, NV241J, Lifted with OME 927/948 and Bilstein, JBA 4.5 UCA's, Custom 3" Rear Y-Link Extension and Swaybar Relocation, 265/75-16 Toyo Open Country AT2 tires, Black Plastidipped bumpers, flares, and doors, Pioneer speakers, Alpine head unit, 1200w Phoenix Gold Amp, 12" Dayton Reference sub.

No problem, I will put a write-up together. I am going to try and get it done in my buddy’s shop with a hoist, if not the pictures will be of me doing it on the floor.

I definitely want to get it done, this morning the roads were wet and the wheels were spinning when I released the clutch on every light. The summer here has been very dry and I haven’t thought about it in months, but one rain fall brings the issue right back and I know it can only get worse once the snow comes.

By the way a CDR, 6 speed and 242 would be the ultimate package!

_________________
2003 Black KJ Sport
5spd 3.7L
Rocky Mountain Element FS

If you do it on the floor, Get a transmission jack or a transmission jack adaptor for a floor jack. The t-case is around 100 pounds, very awkwardly weighted, & one slip could esaly crush your skull

Thanks for the heads up!

What I will do is work with the new t-case and build something to hold it to my jack before attempting it in the vehicle.

_________________
2003 Black KJ Sport
5spd 3.7L
Rocky Mountain Element FS

What kind of tires do you have? With Grabbers and the stock Trak-Lok I can't get my tires to spin even if I try...

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Have fun out there.

2003 Cactus Green Renegade w/ NP231 & NV3550
Al's 4th Gen UCAs
Custom 3.5" Lift
Rear DTT
Spidertraxed 245/75/16 Maxxis Bighorns

its a stick shift..... my 5spd will spin my 245/70's super easy in the wet. the trac loc can make it a bit snakey when both tires start spinin!

_________________
Steve

I have a 5-speed too

_________________
Have fun out there.

2003 Cactus Green Renegade w/ NP231 & NV3550
Al's 4th Gen UCAs
Custom 3.5" Lift
Rear DTT
Spidertraxed 245/75/16 Maxxis Bighorns

come on man.... you cant get your tires to spin drivin a stick?

_________________
Steve

Stop dropping the clutch and then you'll probally not have any problems with traction,I would try better tires first,your not going to be impressed with the 242 over the 231.

Not during normal or even aggressive driving even in the rain. Of course I could rev it up and pop the clutch but why?

_________________
Have fun out there.

2003 Cactus Green Renegade w/ NP231 & NV3550
Al's 4th Gen UCAs
Custom 3.5" Lift
Rear DTT
Spidertraxed 245/75/16 Maxxis Bighorns

no clutch dropping here bud . even at a rolling start, in second gear at about 30km/h, its easy to make the rear go snaky. Sure if I short-shift there's not enough torque to make the tires spin, but with normal shifts, as soon as the RPM goes above 2500, I gotta be careful. Tires are not too bad either. They are silent armor all terrains, bought this summer.

edit: maybe the slightly larger tire size that you guys are runnin is enough to give that extra traction? I'm seriously jealous if your traction is that much better than mine!

_________________
Steve

Been following this and all I can say is I want to follow some of these drivers around and see how they really drive. I can smoke my 255-70X16s if I want to but in normal driving and in snow I never have a problem, of course I have driven in snow for over 38 years so maybe know how to drive on wet or snow covered roads better. It will be interesting to see after one winter the results of this "test"

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

I admit that I have a heavy foot, but I still have problems without the FT4WD even when trying to keep the rears from spinning in certain conditions. When we go a good amount of time without any rain, and then get some, the roads here can get very slick. There are huge numbers of accidents and traffic becomes horrible. We just got some rain this morning so it took me 35 minutes to get to the office instead of 15. This afternoon it had rained enough for the 2WD to work fine. This morning, trying to start from a stop, especially while turning right at a light, without spinning was virtually impossible. I either have to be extremely light on the skinny pedal, or just put it in FT4WD and drive however I want. Of course, you also have to consider the torque mine gets to the ground at low rpms. I don't have torque management, and I've got 4.10 gears, a torque converter with a 2500 rpm stall and a 2.53:1 multiplier instead of 1.93:1, and efficiency about 6% higher. I also have a 3:1 first gear instead of a 2.84:1 first gear like the newer KJ's.

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June 2001 Liberty Limited 4X4
Frankenlift II Premium, Al's Upper Arms, 245/75R16 C Silent Armors on Moabs, RL Skink Super Sliders, Rear DTT, Riddler Diff Cover, Fastman Throttle Body, Profinish-Proglass Hood, Borla Dual Outlet Exhaust, TransGo Reprogramming Kit, APS Stall Converter, 4.10 Gears, B&G Chrysler PCM, Lots of Line-X, etc...