Accessories for Frankenlift

KY Liberty · **Joined:** Sat Jul 09, 2005 1:46 pm **Posts:** 1195

I've got my Frankenlift II Premium ordered, and Al's upper arms are already here. And I'm thinking that it would be a good idea to get some Moogs for the lowers. I've noticed that the lift causes the rear axle to shift forward and would like to correct that as much as possible without introducing any other driveline problems. I've found upper and lower control arms on Rusty's site, and the Moog ball joints and bushings at Al's site. I want to do this lift right the first time. Since the boat from Australia's delayed, I've still got a few weeks to get some more parts in. Since this will be my first lifted vehicle, I'd really appreciate any advice I can get on what I should order, and potential side affects and factors I need to consider.

LiLredLibby · **Posted:** Wed Sep 26, 2007 9:45 pm

KY Liberty wrote:

I've got my Frankenlift II Premium ordered, and Al's upper arms are already here. And I'm thinking that it would be a good idea to get some Moogs for the lowers. I've noticed that the lift causes the rear axle to shift forward and would like to correct that as much as possible without introducing any other driveline problems. I've found upper and lower control arms on Rusty's site, and the Moog ball joints and bushings at Al's site. I want to do this lift right the first time. Since the boat from Australia's delayed, I've still got a few weeks to get some more parts in. Since this will be my first lifted vehicle, I'd really appreciate any advice I can get on what I should order, and potential side affects and factors I need to consider.

I think the Moogs for the lower balljoints would be a great addition while your doing a lift.Thats when I installed mine.I got my Moogs at a local partshouse for 53.00 each.Don't know exactly where your from,but if you can find a "Genuine Auto Parts" store near you ,you will save some $$$$.And mine did have the grease zerks in them.Pressing them in and out of the lower control arm was a real PITA,but well worth it to know you have the best.I was also going to get the Als upper a arms when I did my Rusty's OTT lift,but after I installed it,I have some clearance between the UBJ and the spring at full droop,so I'll just wait till it's time for upper balljoints before I upgrade.If I ever consider a spring lift,it will be the franky II also,cause it seems to give you the most lift and the most level lift of all of them.Good luck with the lift project,and I know your going to like it. :wink:

Ron

KY Liberty · **Joined:** Sat Jul 09, 2005 1:46 pm **Posts:** 1195

Was that with the bushings? If not, it sounds like $26.95 each from Al's is a really good price. If they did come with them, then the extra $40 for the bushings from Al's more than makes up for it.

Also, have you done anything to recenter the rear? I would like to correct it as much as possible without having to buy a custom driveshaft, and without causing any driveline vibration or destructive angles.

Edit

Oops, that's the uppers, the lowers are $53.30. :oops:

LiLredLibby · **Posted:** Wed Sep 26, 2007 11:19 pm

KY Liberty wrote:

Was that with the bushings? If not, it sounds like $26.95 each from Al's is a really good price. If they did come with them, then the extra $40 for the bushings from Al's more than makes up for it.

Also, have you done anything to recenter the rear? I would like to correct it as much as possible without having to buy a custom driveshaft, and without causing any driveline vibration or destructive angles.

Edit

Oops, that's the uppers, the lowers are $53.30. :oops:

53.30 is a good price for lower balljoints.I have'nt really gotten into any real hardcore flexing yet,so I have'nt centered the rearend yet.But when you add the longer rear arms,you can take some before and after measurements and send the driveshaft out to be lengthened.And if they rebalance your driveshaft,you should'nt have any real issues with vibration,and the angle should be decreased so as to take some wear and tear off of the joints.

Ron

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 27, 2007 5:20 pm

To recenter the rear you'll need adjustable lower control arms,and a adjustable (custom) upper tri-link.If you just install the adjustable LCA's and center the rear axle then all you did is point the pinion down and you'll run into vibrations and premature u-joint failure,you need to adjust(move out) the upper link the same distance(relitive) as the LCA's.I believe Jeepin by Al is making a upper adjustable tri-link for there big lift,don't know if it is avaiable yet,couls have a custom one made but that would be $$$$.I live my rear rubbing,soon it's all getting replace anyway.

KY Liberty · **Joined:** Sat Jul 09, 2005 1:46 pm **Posts:** 1195

Is there a compromise? Can it be pushed back just a little instead of being recentered without changing the angles enough to cause problems, or am I just looking at getting myself into a ton of trouble?

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu Sep 27, 2007 8:34 pm

If I was you I would just install the lift and run it for a while, I dont think you will really notice it that much.

Tom

JMM · **Posted:** Sat Oct 06, 2007 6:52 am

Wow - I thought I did my homework pretty well but this is the first I have seen regarding an issue in the position of the rear after installing a lift.

Getting ready to install my Frankenlift II Prem. and now am concerned...how much of an issue is it ? I have not seen any discussion of this before by anyone, is it that I just completely missed the boat? :?:

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sat Oct 06, 2007 8:39 am

You will be just fine, dont worry. Some people like to recenter the rear axle but its not needed unless youre running big tires that rub when flexing. You can stop that with extended bumpstops but flexing would be in its prime by centering the axle.

callaway · **Posted:** Sat Oct 06, 2007 9:15 am

Jeepjeepster wrote:

Some people like to recenter the rear axle but its not needed unless youre running big tires that rub when flexing. You can stop that with extended bumpstops but flexing would be in its prime by centering the axle.

Even a little bit of flex causes my rear tires to get stuffed and rub... I need something there to keep the the outer edges of the tires from getting chewed up =/

little bit of flex = stuffed tires...

eaten edge...

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sat Oct 06, 2007 9:25 pm

yea, thats why I said you need extended bumpstops.

And you have cragar rims so your BS is different than stock. That makes rubbing worse.

BeepBeepJeepJeep · **Posted:** Sat Oct 06, 2007 11:14 pm

Jeepjeepster wrote:

yea, thats why I said you need extended bumpstops.

And you have cragar rims so your BS is different than stock. That makes rubbing worse.

The daystar evs bumpstops stopped the tire exactly where I wanted it to. Now that I've installed spidertrax I'm a little nervous to see what will happen the first time I stuff these badboys...

KY Liberty · **Joined:** Sat Jul 09, 2005 1:46 pm **Posts:** 1195

BeepBeepJeepJeep wrote:

Jeepjeepster wrote:

yea, thats why I said you need extended bumpstops.

And you have cragar rims so your BS is different than stock. That makes rubbing worse.

The daystar evs bumpstops stopped the tire exactly where I wanted it to. Now that I've installed spidertrax I'm a little nervous to see what will happen the first time I stuff these badboys...

How are those Grabber AT2's working out for you? I'm going to try to fit them under mine in a 265/65R17 on the 17X7.5" rims with 5.5" backspacing. I have some 10mm 6061-T6 billet aluminum spacers being cnc'd. I'm thinking that should keep the inside of the tire close to where it is now with the 245's which aren't a problem. That also shouldn't be quite as far out as the Spidertrax with the 16X7's, or the Rubicon 16X8's, so I'm hoping to get away with just heat gunning the fog light area and flattening the pinch weld.

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