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 Post subject: Moog bushings
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 7:26 pm 
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I'm getting ready to order some Moog lower ball joints to go with the Frankie, but need to know if I should order the lower control arm bushings to go with them?

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 Post subject: Re: Moog bushings
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 7:34 pm 
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KY Liberty wrote:
I'm getting ready to order some Moog lower ball joints to go with the Frankie, but need to know if I should order the lower control arm bushings to go with them?
It would be cheaper or about the same $$$(after install labor) just to get whole new LCA's from a plaace like worldpartexpress.com.The bushings are like $50 apiece(x2 for each arm) and a new LCA is like $170 apiece and comes with all new bushings installed,even the lower clevis bushing.I replaced my whole LCA's a few month's ago due to extreme bushing wear from offroading,drove like a new KJ after I replced the LCA's.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 8:31 pm 
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How do I check my bushings to see if they need to be replaced? Considering I have had to get all the rubber hoses replaced every 3 years, I would think that mine are probably shot. If they need replacing, I'll just get the new LCA's.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 8:50 pm 
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KY Liberty wrote:
How do I check my bushings to see if they need to be replaced? Considering I have had to get all the rubber hoses replaced every 3 years, I would think that mine are probably shot. If they need replacing, I'll just get the new LCA's.
A couple of ways is to look at them,any cracks or sagging.Or if the inability to maintain a alignment or frequent alignments(2 or more in a year),mushy,jarring ride and cornering even though you have fairly new shocks/struts.

Mine where cracked bad,sagging,and making some awful noises.Replaced them and what a world of a difference!


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 8:54 pm 
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My bushes for my clevis fork on the lower control arm is fairly cracked and I hit them up with silicone spray every oil change. They just have so much pressure on them.

The rest of my bushings look like new.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 9:08 pm 
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Jeepjeepster wrote:
My bushes for my clevis fork on the lower control arm is fairly cracked and I hit them up with silicone spray every oil change. They just have so much pressure on them.

The rest of my bushings look like new.
Silicone is bad for rubber(softens it up),soon your bushings will start to chuck apart.Nothing can stop the wear and natural breakdown of rubber,just the air you breathe is enough to break down bushings.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 9:12 pm 
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Thanks, I'll check them tomorrow when it's light outside.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 9:44 pm 
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Yup, the dry air here and the way I wheel caused mine to get cracked and saggy pretty quick (26,000m).. alignment was off..noisy.... replaced them and just like tj said, "what a world of difference."

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 9:53 pm 
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Dje Ryu wrote:
Yup, the dry air here and the way I wheel caused mine to get cracked and saggy pretty quick (26,000m).. alignment was off..noisy.... replaced them and just like tj said, "what a world of difference."


Mine haven't been used on trails, but all the salt they put on the roads here destroys everything. I'm also a slightly spirited driver. Since they're over 6 years old also, I think I'll just go ahead and replace them while doing the lift.

I see that you're running a 2.5" Rusty's with a clevis and the SA 245/70R17's. Did you have to do anything about rubbing? How close would you say your lift is to the Frankenlift with an extra isolator in the rear? I'm trying to decide between 255/70R17, 265/65R17, and 245/70R17 AT's for the same rims as you have. These will be daily drivers, so no extreme articulation.

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June 2001 Liberty Limited 4X4
Frankenlift II Premium, Al's Upper Arms, 245/75R16 C Silent Armors on Moabs, RL Skink Super Sliders, Rear DTT, Riddler Diff Cover, Fastman Throttle Body, Profinish-Proglass Hood, Borla Dual Outlet Exhaust, TransGo Reprogramming Kit, APS Stall Converter, 4.10 Gears, B&G Chrysler PCM, Lots of Line-X, etc...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 10:05 pm 
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https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/als.aspx

??

I personally use Liquid wrench silicone spray since it says its safe for all rubbers.

M914
Silicone Spray
- Compatible with all metals, rubber, plastic and wood.
- High viscosity formula eliminates squeaks and lubricates all kinds of household and mechanical equipment.

Image

http://www.gunk.com/menu_NP.asp

Ive only been able to find the liquid wrench at autozone. Picked up a couple cans and one has lasted me a couple years now.

I tried some CRC silicone spray that I found at walmart but it seems like it was nothing but accelerant. I could spray it in my hand and when it dried nothing was left. It had a straw with it which is why I got it. The Liquid wrench doesnt.

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LOST KJ'S
Where are you going???
Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
-Atlantic Blue
-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
Lost #007082
http://www.cardomain.com/id/jeepjeepster


Last edited by Jeepjeepster on Mon Oct 01, 2007 10:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 10:16 pm 
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Jeepjeepster wrote:
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/als.aspx

??

I personally use Liquid wrench silicone spray since it says its safe for all rubbers.

M914
Silicone Spray
- Compatible with all metals, rubber, plastic and wood.
- High viscosity formula eliminates squeaks and lubricates all kinds of household and mechanical equipment.

Image

http://www.gunk.com/menu_NP.asp


Seems like we have a mixed message here??????

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 10:20 pm 
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BlackLibertyCRD wrote:

Seems like we have a mixed message here??????


Nope. Read the thread and it will all make sense. :)

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LOST KJ'S
Where are you going???
Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
-Atlantic Blue
-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
Lost #007082
http://www.cardomain.com/id/jeepjeepster


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 Post subject: Re: Moog bushings
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 11:16 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
KY Liberty wrote:
I'm getting ready to order some Moog lower ball joints to go with the Frankie, but need to know if I should order the lower control arm bushings to go with them?
It would be cheaper or about the same $$$(after install labor) just to get whole new LCA's from a plaace like worldpartexpress.com.The bushings are like $50 apiece(x2 for each arm) and a new LCA is like $170 apiece and comes with all new bushings installed,even the lower clevis bushing.I replaced my whole LCA's a few month's ago due to extreme bushing wear from offroading,drove like a new KJ after I replced the LCA's.


I agree get the whole lower control arm!!!!! I replaced these bushings myself. I air hammered them out and pressed them in with a big stupid vice. It was not fun and i wont do it again. When will energy suspension start making suspension bushings for the KJ. I mean come on now, they sell a whole kit for a pt cruiser. wtf :roll:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 12:57 am 
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KY Liberty wrote:
Dje Ryu wrote:
Yup, the dry air here and the way I wheel caused mine to get cracked and saggy pretty quick (26,000m).. alignment was off..noisy.... replaced them and just like tj said, "what a world of difference."


Mine haven't been used on trails, but all the salt they put on the roads here destroys everything. I'm also a slightly spirited driver. Since they're over 6 years old also, I think I'll just go ahead and replace them while doing the lift.

I see that you're running a 2.5" Rusty's with a clevis and the SA 245/70R17's. Did you have to do anything about rubbing? How close would you say your lift is to the Frankenlift with an extra isolator in the rear? I'm trying to decide between 255/70R17, 265/65R17, and 245/70R17 AT's for the same rims as you have. These will be daily drivers, so no extreme articulation.


They're using calcium chloride instead of sodium, here, but the result is the same. I haven't seen a Franky on a KJ in person but, with the clevis on the front, I'd guess I'm still about 1/4" lower there, and about 3/4" lower in the back, maybe more with an isolator added to the Franky. I need a set of isolators for mine now that my rear springs have settled as much as the front.

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"There are few problems in life the liberal application of duct tape can't solve."


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 5:00 pm 
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Dje Ryu wrote:
KY Liberty wrote:
Dje Ryu wrote:
Yup, the dry air here and the way I wheel caused mine to get cracked and saggy pretty quick (26,000m).. alignment was off..noisy.... replaced them and just like tj said, "what a world of difference."


Mine haven't been used on trails, but all the salt they put on the roads here destroys everything. I'm also a slightly spirited driver. Since they're over 6 years old also, I think I'll just go ahead and replace them while doing the lift.

I see that you're running a 2.5" Rusty's with a clevis and the SA 245/70R17's. Did you have to do anything about rubbing? How close would you say your lift is to the Frankenlift with an extra isolator in the rear? I'm trying to decide between 255/70R17, 265/65R17, and 245/70R17 AT's for the same rims as you have. These will be daily drivers, so no extreme articulation.


They're using calcium chloride instead of sodium, here, but the result is the same. I haven't seen a Franky on a KJ in person but, with the clevis on the front, I'd guess I'm still about 1/4" lower there, and about 3/4" lower in the back, maybe more with an isolator added to the Franky. I need a set of isolators for mine now that my rear springs have settled as much as the front.


Do you have enough room for a little fatter tire such as a 255 or 265, or would that rub on the suspension with the 17X7.5's?

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June 2001 Liberty Limited 4X4
Frankenlift II Premium, Al's Upper Arms, 245/75R16 C Silent Armors on Moabs, RL Skink Super Sliders, Rear DTT, Riddler Diff Cover, Fastman Throttle Body, Profinish-Proglass Hood, Borla Dual Outlet Exhaust, TransGo Reprogramming Kit, APS Stall Converter, 4.10 Gears, B&G Chrysler PCM, Lots of Line-X, etc...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 6:42 am 
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Are the bushings really that expensive? I can get new TJ LCA bushings for $7 at autozone. Changing them is a huge hassle unless you borrow a Ball Joint Press from their rent-a-tool department. It's a great press with a very versatile selection of collars, I've used it for U-joints, bushings, ball joints, and I forget what else.

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