2" OME lift + 1" Spacer lift (Go or no go)

CD · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 6:25 am

I'm thinking after reading a lot on the 4" lift etc that I'd consider adding a 1" spacer to my existing OME 2" lift. I don't want to do a clevis lift (perhaps I'm not the full book on it but it just dosent seem good to me). Obvoiusly I wont gain articulation but I will gain a little clearence, so what I want help with is what's the best spacer to get front & back + do they sit at the top of the spring in the rear or the base. Also will I need to extend brake lines, I'd think not as I'm not extending my struts/shocks (yet).

Thanks Chris

(if you know of a thread that's already covered this please let me know & I will read up)

elephantrider · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 8:22 am

you would have to use the strut top plate if you wanted to have both.
no way you can have a poly spacer under a 2" spring within the assembly itself.

i tried with my ome hd's to put the poly spacer in with the springs, and now way in hades would it work.

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 8:29 am

Not sure why you dont want to do a clevis, just about eveyone has done it and no problems, also adding a 1 inch spacer to the top is basically doing the same thing as a clevis is, that being said if you are putting a 1 inch chunk of metal on the top of the strut plate will the bolts be long enough to hold well? A 1/2 inch plate will, but not sure 1 inch, maybe do a 1/2 inch at top and 2 conduit nuts at the bottom?
as far as the rear most put them on top but I have used top and bottom with same results

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:32 am

Well I think we have kinds of established that it is not a true 4" lift since it rides the same height as a 2.5" lift with 265/75/16's. Every1 seems to think that with the stock configuration you can just all the sudden go to 3+" when 2.5" causes enuff issues with travel/contact/rubbing ect.

You can get the rear to 4" with some mods but the front just won't go there without some serious rethinking. UBJ Contact, CVJoint Angles, Rack & Pinion (tie rod) angles,Strut Lengths,Brake Line Lengths, Width from Wheel/Tire to Wheel/Tire becomes smaller...need a wider stance for stability, LBJ weakness, Alignment Issues, Aluminum Front Diff Issues, ect.

Honestly, a SFA is the best option to go bigger...I know it is more money but it would be money well spent to make the jump from 2.5" to 4+"...IMHO

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:39 am

Darby I agree with you on that. I know that with mine an inch or so will not make that much difference, maybe my belly will not drag over the first rock but the second one it still will :lol:

SFA is the only true alternative that will work with the least amount of problems.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:17 am

Isn't the Frankenlift an OME with a 1" spacer?

That's readily available - doesn't mean that it's easy to put together - after killing one spring compressor and trying 2 others to get the Daystar on a CRD - I'd expect that you need a professional style spring compressor - wall mount or hydraulic to get it together. But it should work.

Although you might need the Daystar top plate to get it to bolt together.. (I went back and read the Frankenlift pieces)

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:30 am

ATXKJ wrote:

Isn't the Frankenlift an OME with a 1" spacer?

That's readily available - doesn't mean that it's easy to put together - after killing one spring compressor and trying 2 others to get the Daystar on a CRD - I'd expect that you need a professional style spring compressor - wall mount or hydraulic to get it together. But it should work.

Although you might need the Daystar top plate to get it to bolt together.. (I went back and read the Frankenlift pieces)

I think thats the trick is the Daystar top plate the stock one will not work, even my OME HDs took a wall mount compressor and it was still tough as **** to do

COKJ06 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 5:59 pm

Does the CRD Frankenlift include the spacer? It's not listed in the parts list. Also, looks like they use stock strut plates..

If no spacer is used, CRD lift is shorter than GAS lift, right?

http://www.boulderbars.com/frankenlift_crd.htm

-- 2 Old Man Emu Front Struts - NS131 Struts
-- 2 Old Man Emu Front H/D CRD-rated OME790 Coil Springs!
-- 4 Mopar Isolators (poly parts) *CORE CHARGE APPLIES
-- 1 Right & 1 Left Mopar Upper Strut plate *CORE CHARGE APPLIES
-- 2 OME948 Rear Heavy Duty Coil Springs
-- 2 OME Long Travel Rear Shocks
-- One Pair Rear Bump Stops
-- All Hardware Needed for assembly of front struts.
-- Labor to assemble 2 front strut assemblies.
-- Brake Line Relocation Bracket (required for '06+ KJs add $30).

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 6:20 pm

You have to remember...there were prelowered KJs up till a certain date...then DC lowered the KJ's about 1/2" to appease the masses. If you have a lowered KJ and add a spring lift you will gain more lift than the amount listed. The new spring gives you back the 1/2" you lost plus your lift amount. My 2006 CRD gained more than 2" with just the OME springs because it gained back what it's older brothers had in the beginning. So now with tires giving me about .4" and the lift giving me 2.6" (with the 1/2" get back), I have gained 3" overall.

This much lift still gives your KJ room to move/travel/compress/droop without major problems. If any UBJ contact occurs, Als Arms usually takes care of that problem. If you try to get much more lift than that you end up with problems including major contact/severe CV Angles/limited travel in the front strut/ect. I know every1 wants to "GO BIGGER" but without major changes you are just asking for trouble. When I first discoverd the "clevis lift" for the Liberty, it was to level out the KJ after lifting...then later it was to compensate for heavier bumpers (Trailready/ARB). It was not meant to go past the limits of good judgement.

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 6:23 pm

COKJ06 wrote:

Does the CRD Frankenlift include the spacer? It's not listed in the parts list. Also, looks like they use stock strut plates..

If no spacer is used, CRD lift is shorter than GAS lift, right?

http://www.boulderbars.com/frankenlift_crd.htm

-- 2 Old Man Emu Front Struts - NS131 Struts
-- 2 Old Man Emu Front H/D CRD-rated OME790 Coil Springs!
-- 4 Mopar Isolators (poly parts) *CORE CHARGE APPLIES
-- 1 Right & 1 Left Mopar Upper Strut plate *CORE CHARGE APPLIES
-- 2 OME948 Rear Heavy Duty Coil Springs
-- 2 OME Long Travel Rear Shocks
-- One Pair Rear Bump Stops
-- All Hardware Needed for assembly of front struts.
-- Labor to assemble 2 front strut assemblies.
-- Brake Line Relocation Bracket (required for '06+ KJs add $30).

You can save money and order the kit unassembled. You will use your stcok mounting plates and hardware with the OME struts/springs/shocks and rear bumpstop and brake relocator bracket. It gives the result you are looking for for less than $800.00. Just make sure you get the "long travel" rear OME Shocks.

renegadekj · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 8:22 pm

CDKJ
Keep in mind that when you do install a extra 1 inch spacer that you will most likely need to get longer UCA`s due to spring contact. I`m not sure why you don`t want to install a clevis lift! My recommendations would be to install a rusty`s half inch strut plate + a 2 or 3 ring clevis lift! And for the rear add 1 or 2 extra rear isolator pads. You will not gain much or any articulation though. This is what i have done with the 3 ring clevis and have not had any problems accept spring contact while offroad, but thats nothing Al`s uppers can`t fix!

Josh

myjeepwalks · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 8:43 pm

Hmmm... wonder if i can just add the daystar spacer and top strut plate to my rusty's lift. That would pretty much be a frankenlift correct? Then just throw 2 more upper spring isolators in the rear?? I already have a clevis lift and rusty's upper strut plate spacer. Where can i get these daystar parts without buying the whole kit. That would probably give the height of a new frankenlift considering my rusty's springs have already sagged. Just a though but would it work??? :idea:

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:10 pm

Since the Frankenlift uses OME Heavy Duty springs no it wouldnt be the same using the Rustys springs. Rustys are only 310 lb springs where as the OME HDs are 400. OMEs are not that much shorter than Rustys if any plus they are heavier. A Frankenlift is way higher than your Rustys. My OME HDs are just right at the same heighth as a new Rustys even with the ARB hanging out there.
But you could try but not sure what you would be gaining since your Rustys are already starting to sag? Why not just replace ??

f

elephantrider · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:16 pm

tommudd wrote:

Since the Frankenlift uses OME Heavy Duty springs no it wouldnt be the same using the Rustys springs. Rustys are only 310 lb springs where as the OME HDs are 400. OMEs are not that much shorter than Rustys if any plus they are heavier. A Frankenlift is way higher than your Rustys. My OME HDs are just right at the same heighth as a new Rustys even with the ARB hanging out there.

when i put the ome hd's next to the rustys front springs, they were the same heighth.
agree with tommudd, i got all my lift back when i switched to the ome's with the arb in front.
waaaaaaay better springs.

myjeepwalks · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:04 pm

tommudd wrote:

Since the Frankenlift uses OME Heavy Duty springs no it wouldnt be the same using the Rustys springs. Rustys are only 310 lb springs where as the OME HDs are 400. OMEs are not that much shorter than Rustys if any plus they are heavier. A Frankenlift is way higher than your Rustys. My OME HDs are just right at the same heighth as a new Rustys even with the ARB hanging out there.
But you could try but not sure what you would be gaining since your Rustys are already starting to sag? Why not just replace ??

f

Yeah i know a frankenlift is way higher than a rusty's lift. But if i added the daystar spacer and top plate to my current rusty's lift it's basically a frankenlift without the OME springs correct? Figured i'd get another 1" or so. I have the rusty's strut plates that compensated for the sagging springs, got my 1/2" back with them.. Replacing the springs is an option but it'll get me right where i'm currently at. Would like to get up to frankenlift height without buying another lift. Figured I could just throw those daystar parts in there with what i currenty have to get the extra 1" or so. No way can i ever afford Al's 4" kit.

CD · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:21 pm

renegadekj wrote:

CDKJ
Keep in mind that when you do install a extra 1 inch spacer that you will most likely need to get longer UCA`s due to spring contact. I`m not sure why you don`t want to install a clevis lift! My recommendations would be to install a rusty`s half inch strut plate + a 2 or 3 ring clevis lift! And for the rear add 1 or 2 extra rear isolator pads. You will not gain much or any articulation though. This is what i have done with the 3 ring clevis and have not had any problems accept spring contact while offroad, but thats nothing Al`s uppers can`t fix!

Josh

Thanks for all the replies lads, this thread alone has expanded my understanding of the lift parts available. I'm concerned that the clevis is using parts that aren’t meant to be in a high compression state. Washers/plastic conduit/nuts etc. Perhaps I'm not reading it right but it's almost like people are throwing in anything that will fit to gain lift (Don't burn me on that comment it's only an observation). I thought that a tested polly spacer would be SAFER that's all, I also understand the need for the long travel shocks but cost will prevent this at this stage. Perhaps it's best to wait till I can afford to do it all at once to make it work best.

I like the ideas & will give much thought to what I want & how to do it. I'll have to measure my ride height & compare to those stated on the 4" therad (ground to bottom of side mirror). I'm interested to see where my KJ stacks up.

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:56 pm

conduit nuts are not plastic they are metal very strong, not burning you here but I dont think people are just throwing anything in there for lift, everything I have read throughout this has been things that are proven to work very well. The conduit nuts are very strong like I said and can hold up very well, maybe go by a hardware store and see for your self.

Maybe part of it is we talk and use names of things that you are not familer with and we need to do a better job of explaining what we mean that way you or anyone else will not think we are running around in unsafe Libertys! :lol:

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Thu Oct 18, 2007 12:34 am

The advantage of the clevis is you don't HAVE to use conduit washers...just tighten to spec. The big advantage is it is very easy to add or subtract without having to take apart a strut like an internal puc would require.

Dje Ryu · **Posted:** Thu Oct 18, 2007 12:38 am

There's not really any weight on the conduit nuts, either. Once you torque the clevis around the strut, it won't move, even without the nuts in there. I made my own clevis spacers (they are just spacers, not supports) out of 4140 steel but, even that is overkill. If I ever replace them, I'm going to make some thicker ones out of stainless, next time. But, really, they aren't necessary, they just provide spacers that are very close to the same thickness, thus providing the same amount of lift on both sides but if you have a way of measuring the gap, you could just space the strut from the clevis without the nuts, torque to spec and it won't move.

myjeepwalks · **Posted:** Thu Oct 18, 2007 1:44 am

The conduit nuts are just used so it's evenly spaced on each side. There is no compression on them from the spring. Technically you can slide the clevis down tighten it up then do the same on the other side. The pain in the but part is you have to measure. For like $3 you throw the same amount of nuts on each side and it's even. Just makes it 1000x easier.

2" OME lift + 1" Spacer lift (Go or no go)

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