A liberty with 33's

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 7:40 pm

DarbyWalters wrote:

Yep, and with the custom D30 housing with standard D30 innards a few more gear ratios would become available.

Yep,just hack the ends off the D30 diff to match the D30A,weld some brackets on,fit some seals on the tube ends(a little work for that),and mount it up.Then you could go to 4.56's,or 4.88's(would not recommend with a 27-spline D30),can't go any lower then 4.88's since 4.88's are the lowest you can get for the 8.25.

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 7:57 pm

wouldnt be that bad really when you think of how it opens up a lot of possibilities, I mean what $ 2000/2200 range or a little bit more, but looking at what it costs to build an axle for an SFA, :wink:

So what kind of place can do that kind of work that is reliable ?

Rush345 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:17 pm

I have been reading this thread and learning. But now I have possibly the stupid question of the day. with all this talk on travel and articulation pluss the differences between IFS and FSA, I recall some one showing the IFS from a Hummer which showed the shafts lower in the rack and giving greater articulation and clearance. My question what is undesirable with that set up? Granted I'm asking off only one individuals comments, I'm certain at least Tom or sombody else can answer my stupid question of the day. :oops:

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:23 pm

Thats one for tjkj for sure, but all Ford/GM/Jeep are different in the way everything is mounted in the front suspension etc. so that is why....well , now waiting for that orange KJ guy to fill us in on the technical terms :wink:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:17 pm

Rush345 wrote:

I have been reading this thread and learning. But now I have possibly the stupid question of the day. with all this talk on travel and articulation pluss the differences between IFS and FSA, I recall some one showing the IFS from a Hummer which showed the shafts lower in the rack and giving greater articulation and clearance. My question what is undesirable with that set up? Granted I'm asking off only one individuals comments, I'm certain at least Tom or sombody else can answer my stupid question of the day. :oops:

HMMWV or H1 uses a geared hub IFS/IRS,like portal axles on Unimogs,which puta the CV up higher to gain more ground clearence.It's a stong design since the diffs use a higher gear ratio,newer version use 3.54 ratio,a stronger gear setup then say 4.56's),then the CV's send power to the geared hubs which give another 2:1 reduction.With the geared hubs it also puts less stress on the CV's,and having the disc brakes mounted on the diff(inboard) also puts less stress on the CV's.But the geared hub setup in the H1 requires the use of a rear diff in the front and a front diff in the rear,if you follow a H1 you'll notice that the CV's are spinning the opposite direction then the wheels are.And finnally the H1's use's alloy diffs to,based off a AMC20 diff and has a Thorsen LSD.

The H1 does not have much articulation,the use of a fulltime 4WD(NV218 t-case) and LSD's help it over come the lack of articulation.

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:43 pm

Just remember the reason our KJs wheel fairly well is mostly due to the Straight Rear Axle...there is a reason for that. Pressure on one side of the axle puts opposite pressure on the other end...creates downforce and lift.

Right now I am very happy with my KJ CRD. I am going to just drive it and enjoy...down the road I will probably spend money ONCE and do the SFA conversion. That is not even a given...since the KJ is meeting all my needs right now including fuel mileage

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:46 pm

Whos making 4.88's for the 8.25?!

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:06 pm

JJsKJ wrote:

Whos making 4.88's for the 8.25?!

Supieror gear(forgive my spelling) was going to build 4.88's for the 8.25,thought I heard they where already out but I just tried to find them but couldn't,maybe they are not out yet.Sorry.

Rush345 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 18, 2007 1:10 am

tjkj2002 wrote:

Rush345 wrote:

I have been reading this thread and learning. But now I have possibly the stupid question of the day. with all this talk on travel and articulation pluss the differences between IFS and FSA, I recall some one showing the IFS from a Hummer which showed the shafts lower in the rack and giving greater articulation and clearance. My question what is undesirable with that set up? Granted I'm asking off only one individuals comments, I'm certain at least Tom or sombody else can answer my stupid question of the day. :oops:

HMMWV or H1 uses a geared hub IFS/IRS,like portal axles on Unimogs,which puta the CV up higher to gain more ground clearence.It's a stong design since the diffs use a higher gear ratio,newer version use 3.54 ratio,a stronger gear setup then say 4.56's),then the CV's send power to the geared hubs which give another 2:1 reduction.With the geared hubs it also puts less stress on the CV's,and having the disc brakes mounted on the diff(inboard) also puts less stress on the CV's.But the geared hub setup in the H1 requires the use of a rear diff in the front and a front diff in the rear,if you follow a H1 you'll notice that the CV's are spinning the opposite direction then the wheels are.And finnally the H1's use's alloy diffs to,based off a AMC20 diff and has a Thorsen LSD.

The H1 does not have much articulation,the use of a fulltime 4WD(NV218 t-case) and LSD's help it over come the lack of articulation.

Thank-You,Thank-you ,Thank-You, this is one of the things I love about L.O.S.T. you don't just do the mod's but you take us rookies by the hand an lead us to knowledge . As stated earlier I did hold a wrench in my hands once :-)r

But from what I've learned from You'All, I have learned a great deal of info..
This weekend I look forward to meeting up with some L.O.S.T.l Bretheren.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Thu Oct 18, 2007 2:40 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

jerbacher wrote:

DarbyWalters wrote:

tommudd wrote:

plus add in the limited gear ratios :roll:

and so to end this I say

AMEN!!!! :wink:

tom

Very True...I still wonder why nobody has built a custom "standard ring & pinion" D30 that will accept out CV Axles...then we would just have to get a custom front driveshaft to connect to the stock TransferCase. Ahh...money rears it's ugly head again :wink:

sounds like after all that, plus all the other mods that would go into a big IFS, and we're back to the same price as SFA again...

You know it could be done for fairly cheap(well not what most here consider cheap).A D30,D30A,chopsaw,some scrap metal,and a welder it can be done in probally a day or two.Without the cost of rebiulding the D30 and a new driveshaft it would probally run about $200-$250(with the intial cost of the D30),then add rebuilding the D30 and new driveshaft it would probally run $600-$1200(depending on what kind of traction aid added).But those #'s don't include any labor.

I'd like to talk to you in depth about this the next time I'm in CO if you don't mind.

Donnie · **Posted:** Sun Oct 28, 2007 12:07 am

Bump TTT

I'd like to know how you fit the spring in there w/ the spacer. doo doo, I could barely get the spacers in there. I really want 33s!

swmpthg · **Posted:** Sat Nov 03, 2007 10:40 am

Donnie wrote:

Bump TTT

I'd like to know how you fit the spring in there w/ the spacer. doo doo, I could barely get the spacers in there. I really want 33s!

use a spring compressor.. you actually may be able to just flex out the rear with the rear shocks off and stuff one side in first then do the other, because I can take out my rear spring and cup when im completely flexed in the rear and just put it back in. but this is if you don't have a spring compressor... the rear is the easy part the front is alot harder..

InCommando · **Posted:** Sat Nov 03, 2007 10:17 pm

InCommando · **Posted:** Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:40 am

pixeldzn wrote:

I agree this is a disaster waiting to happen.

However - I wish folks would stop saying 4.10s and 33s are a dog. How many Rubicon's are out there with a small lift and 33s still running 4.10s? It's only a 2" change in tire size over stock. I am running that setup and my jeep is by far a dog. Gear changes on a TJ normally only happen after going to 35s.

I have 33's and run 3.54's with a D20 x-fer and a T-18 tranny. I don't have a big problem.

BTW: it is a completly unlifted Cherokee and you cannot get the tires to rub if you tried. Keeping the center of gravity low is advantageous in a lot of instances.

trac95ker · **Joined:** Tue May 23, 2006 3:02 pm **Posts:** 116

Gotta throw this idea in the mix. How about running what ever tires you want say with a proven OME lift and cutting the body out of the way. You wouldn't have to worry about all the problems bieng discussed. Personally, my CRD is a tow rig for my crawler. I learned with my Geo Tracker that IFS is weak and will fail. Many thousands of dollars later, my SAS is still not done. You'll spend thousands on heim joints, inserts,dom, coilovers, drive shaft,etc. Hopefully you won't have to move the steering box and mod the frame. I guess i should stop expressing my frustration.

CD · **Posted:** Tue Jan 29, 2008 5:21 am

InCommando wrote:

pixeldzn wrote:

I agree this is a disaster waiting to happen.

However - I wish folks would stop saying 4.10s and 33s are a dog. How many Rubicon's are out there with a small lift and 33s still running 4.10s? It's only a 2" change in tire size over stock. I am running that setup and my jeep is by far a dog. Gear changes on a TJ normally only happen after going to 35s.

I have 33's and run 3.54's with a D20 x-fer and a T-18 tranny. I don't have a big problem.

BTW: it is a completly unlifted Cherokee and you cannot get the tires to rub if you tried. Keeping the center of gravity low is advantageous in a lot of instances.

This I've got to see, pic please Commando. 33's on a non lifted KJ with no contact :shock:

, if you can do that & your not pulling the other one then your rig must be something special.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:32 am

CDKJ wrote:

InCommando wrote:

pixeldzn wrote:

I agree this is a disaster waiting to happen.

However - I wish folks would stop saying 4.10s and 33s are a dog. How many Rubicon's are out there with a small lift and 33s still running 4.10s? It's only a 2" change in tire size over stock. I am running that setup and my jeep is by far a dog. Gear changes on a TJ normally only happen after going to 35s.

I have 33's and run 3.54's with a D20 x-fer and a T-18 tranny. I don't have a big problem.

BTW: it is a completly unlifted Cherokee and you cannot get the tires to rub if you tried. Keeping the center of gravity low is advantageous in a lot of instances.

This I've got to see, pic please Commando. 33's on a non lifted KJ with no contact :shock:

, if you can do that & your not pulling the other one then your rig must be something special.

Please note he is talking about an older, full size Jeep '79 Cherokee Chief. It isn't gonna happen on a KJ w/out a lift and lots of trimiming.

trac95ker · **Joined:** Tue May 23, 2006 3:02 pm **Posts:** 116

Did this come to market?

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl= ... n%26sa%3DN

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Jan 29, 2008 11:21 am

trac95ker wrote:

Did this come to market?

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl= ... n%26sa%3DN

simple answer NO, never was made, talked a lot about it but never done, also to run that size tire they did a lot of extras like moving the rear wheelwells back , making different flares for the rear, things a normal person couldnt do real easy, plus still stuck with bad gear choices in the front

CD · **Posted:** Tue Jan 29, 2008 5:24 pm

JJsKJ wrote:

CDKJ wrote:

InCommando wrote:

pixeldzn wrote:

I agree this is a disaster waiting to happen.

However - I wish folks would stop saying 4.10s and 33s are a dog. How many Rubicon's are out there with a small lift and 33s still running 4.10s? It's only a 2" change in tire size over stock. I am running that setup and my jeep is by far a dog. Gear changes on a TJ normally only happen after going to 35s.

I have 33's and run 3.54's with a D20 x-fer and a T-18 tranny. I don't have a big problem.

BTW: it is a completly unlifted Cherokee and you cannot get the tires to rub if you tried. Keeping the center of gravity low is advantageous in a lot of instances.

This I've got to see, pic please Commando. 33's on a non lifted KJ with no contact :shock:

, if you can do that & your not pulling the other one then your rig must be something special.

Please note he is talking about an older, full size Jeep '79 Cherokee Chief. It isn't gonna happen on a KJ w/out a lift and lots of trimiming.

79 Cherokee Chief....... well that explains it

Commando, your probably thinking (WTF is CD on about :lol:

). Sorry mate, you have to remember that the Lib is a Cherokee in Aust :wink:

A liberty with 33's

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