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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 11:05 am 
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Mobile 1 synthetic here....look at all the independent testing and Mobile 1 is near the top of all of them....usually right along side Amsoil.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 11:36 am 
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Mobil 1 Syn. since it came out, run all of mine up into the 225,000/ 250,000 mile range and never a problem with any of them, and those have included Fords, GMs, Jeeps, etc.
I keep thinking I need to try Amsoil but as yet havent, its one of those its working for me so why change

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 3:13 pm 
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Thanks for all the info guys great help as usual. I went with the dealer stuff this time but I will most likely make the move next time or two.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 3:17 pm 
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Lifetime oil changes (at 4 changes a year) from Jeep dealer for just over $240 when I bought my KJ. With my skids on, I don't have to get dirty or scrape my knuckles. No dealing with disposal either. Just check the filter and oil drain plug prior to leaving the lot each time. Not sure what oil the dealer uses. I don't drive more than 12K a year so I don't bust the 4/year oil changes.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 4:03 pm 
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My wife wont let me touch her Renegade so we take it to the dealer for everything. I know they Use Quaker State but have no idea what kind specifically (ie weight/synthetic etc)...anyone know for sure? Or does it vary from dealer to dealer?

I've used Castrol Syntec and Lucas oil stabalizer in my pick up for the last 10 years and 130k later....still runnin strong

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 4:45 pm 
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brymac76 wrote:
My wife wont let me touch her Renegade so we take it to the dealer for everything. I know they Use Quaker State but have no idea what kind specifically (ie weight/synthetic etc)...anyone know for sure? Or does it vary from dealer to dealer?


Most likely conventional (i.e., mineral) 5W-30. If they're using any sort of Quaker Sludge, though, I'd give serious thought to taking my own oil - be it Castrol or Havoline - with me. :roll:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 5:19 pm 
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BOO HISS on the Quaker State crap, we used to make bets when tearing down an engine what type of oil the customer used and also what we would find wrong, if they used Quaker State you could tell right away and also you better have a big bucket ready to scrape out all the sludge into it. Black crappy stuff!!

Tom

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 7:21 pm 
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I will be switching to penzoil platinum on my next change, as it swows great uoa's over at bobistheoilguy. (Currently using mobil 1 truck and suv). Honestly though, the 3.7 is a strong performer, and should get you 200k with 3-5k oil changes (even with dino,)
The last thing in the world I would do would be to go 25k between changes...what for? Change it more often and get all that crap out of there...like taking a shower....getting rid of the funk...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 7:34 pm 
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Location: North Carolina
(sigh) i was afraid you folks were going to say that about the Quaker state...I've heard those rumors before.

Thanks guys.

Mac

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 8:57 pm 
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Location: North Vancouver
OK so I just got back from the dealer and got my invoice for $72.16 for the 10K servicing. This was a different dealer then the 5K servicing which only cost $55.32. I looked at both invoices and the difference is the 10K invoice says checked brakes 80% and battery good. Both times used 5w20 no brand specified. The 5K inv. says total labor 16.95 total parts 27.00. The 10K inv. says total labor 42.95 total parts 17.00.

Not a huge deal ($20) but from now on I will be providing my own oil so that at least I know I have the good %$*^.

Again, thanks for the insight.

P.S. all prices in CAN and clicks in KM.

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 Post subject: Don't fix it if it aint broke
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 10:35 pm 
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Location: Lakewood, Colorado
I have used Amsoil from almost the beginning 1976. But for those who love what they are using, enjoy and be happy . My goal is not to sell you oil if you want I'll help and supply. Amsoil was the first to come to the dance, so I remain with the date I came with the only reason I became a Life Time Dealer was so I could supply myself Freinds and Family with the Best Synthetic available. But I maintain use what your happy with and have fun with you JEEP

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 11:14 pm 
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JJsKJ wrote:
dloc_jeep_KJ wrote:
Mobil One and Lucas oil stabilzer does the job for me i drive almost 80 miles a day so i need something cheap(er) and good i usually get a Fram oil filter. and change every 3000 on the dot... i keep a good stock on hand :lol: and i can do it in the garage faster than u can say "Jiffy Lube" ive done this way to many times 130,000 / 3,000 u do the math


Curious, What does all that cost you and why add Lucas to Mobil 1?




i get it by the case so im not sure but its not to bad and the Lucas i use it in the winter so it wont chater when i cold start it and really i just started to use the Lucas and i can say it makes a huge diff.. it runs smother and quieter and the chatter in the cold morning starts are gone

i would like to try AMSOIL though ive heard good thing and not just from guys on here.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 10:19 am 
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Location: North Carolina
Gonna start taking my own oil (synthetic) to the dealer...what weight oil do you guys run in your Liberties?

Thanks in advance.

Mac

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 10:21 am 
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Sorry for got to ask in the last post...how many quarts does it take?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 11:22 am 
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Location: Columbus, Indiana
brymac76 wrote:
Gonna start taking my own oil (synthetic) to the dealer...what weight oil do you guys run in your Liberties?

Thanks in advance.

Mac


A 2005 with the 3.7 V6 would specify 5W-30. 5 quarts.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 11:27 am 
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Location: Columbus, Indiana
dloc_jeep_KJ wrote:
JJsKJ wrote:
dloc_jeep_KJ wrote:
Mobil One and Lucas oil stabilzer does the job for me i drive almost 80 miles a day so i need something cheap(er) and good i usually get a Fram oil filter. and change every 3000 on the dot... i keep a good stock on hand :lol: and i can do it in the garage faster than u can say "Jiffy Lube" ive done this way to many times 130,000 / 3,000 u do the math


Curious, What does all that cost you and why add Lucas to Mobil 1?




i get it by the case so im not sure but its not to bad and the Lucas i use it in the winter so it wont chater when i cold start it and really i just started to use the Lucas and i can say it makes a huge diff.. it runs smother and quieter and the chatter in the cold morning starts are gone

i would like to try AMSOIL though ive heard good thing and not just from guys on here.


You really shouldn't need Lucas Oil Stabilzer with a good quality oil. In fact, I think you'll find that most manufacturers of PCMOs discourage the use of such products as it could screw up their own additive packages. (And I, personally, would steer clear of Fram filters.)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 11:28 am 
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I am just curious as to why some of you are having the dealer perform the oil changes? Are they comping them?
It is one of the easiest and rewarding jobs that you can do yourself. Just a thought...

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'06 3.7 sport 6 speed (long live manual tranny's)
tinted windows, cruise, midnight blue
Mopar roof rack
Royal Purple Synchromax in tranny
Royal Purple Maxgear in pumpkins
Full mopar skids, front diff collar
Future mods: Rock rails, B.F. Goodrich all terains. (In my dreams: Frankenlift)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 11:38 am 
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Location: New Braunfels, Texas
I have done a few UOAs (Oil Analysis) and from the results the Amsoil AME was the best. I used Blackstone Labs for all the UOAs.

My original engine had the Mobil 1 from the dealer and imploded at 8100 miles...not saying the Mobil 1 was the cause...just the facts.

New CRD Engine...started on Amsoil DEO 5W-40...then tried Amsoil Series 3000 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel...and finally settled on Amsoil (AME) 15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine. The DEO is the new oil for 2007's ect...the Series 3000 I tried for Fuel Economy Reasons (it is a viscous 30W) but the AME 15W-40 returned the best numbers. Very little wear metals, excellent soot retention and the TBN (Total Base Number) was still very good even after 10,000 miles. TBN is what keeps acidity in check.

From the oils I tried I think the CRD needs the 40W for protection. A 30W is probably ok, but it did not return numbers as good as the 15W-40. As for the 15W vs the 5W from Jeep...they both flow well at very low temps and I am in San Antonio, Texas.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ame.aspx

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 1:04 pm 
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DarbyWalters wrote:
...they both flow well at very low temps and I am in San Antonio, Texas.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ame.aspx


Hell, Shiner Bock will give you the best flow in San Antone! :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 3:08 pm 
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hooperswish wrote:
I am just curious as to why some of you are having the dealer perform the oil changes? Are they comping them?
It is one of the easiest and rewarding jobs that you can do yourself. Just a thought...


1. I don't have a garage

2. Don't have the right tools (yet)

3. Like to have the service records from day 1

4. I thought they build the thing they should now what is the best and use it! ( I know BIG misconception)

5. Warranty


I used to do all my oil changes on my old VW's when I had tools.

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