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 Post subject: Interior/door wiring questions
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:28 pm 
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First post, woohoo!

Anyways, I am midway through a complete stereo overhaul. Right now I am looking for an online store that I can purchase/lookup KJ interior trim without having to deal with a stealership. Before this I had a WRX and subaruparts.com was great for that, but I am a little lost now :)

Also, conservatively how easy is it to deal with speaker wires in KJ doors? I have 5 runs of 12ga wire I need to get into my doors, am I screwed trying to get it through the stock plug? Am I just better off drilling a new hole and grommeting it?

I promise pictures once this whole thing is finished, unfortunatly no build pictures ATM though :(

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 11:16 pm 
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Coal Country Wheelin
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I just ran mine through the rubber tube that the factory wire goes through. You can get access to it behind the kick panels on each side. It was pretty easy.


Oh and welcome to the board by the way!! 8)

Mike

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 11:22 pm 
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Thanks for the welcome! Had the jeep since last summer and have been lurking here for a couple months now :)

How much room did you have? Like I mentioned, I have 5 runs of 12 gauge I need to get in there and I dont know if I am gonna have enough room :(

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Much of your pain is self-chosen. It is the bitter potion by which the physician within you heals your sick self. Therefore trust the physician, and drink his remedy in silence and tranquility.

Image Dynamics, Alpine, MB Quart, Pioneer...

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 11:31 pm 
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Coal Country Wheelin
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5 Runs? Why so many? When I put my components up front I ran the one run for the woofer through the factory wiring tube to the door and the other up to the tweeter in the dash. The crossover was placed behind the kick panel. I could take pics of my set up for you tomorrow if you'd like. The one run through the door was tight but it manged. 5 would be impossible.

Mike

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 11:40 pm 
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Whoops, bad math in my head. Right now its at 4. I have 2 midbass drivers and 2 tweeters going into each panel. I had a feeling that I would need to figure a way to add another grommet into the door.

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Much of your pain is self-chosen. It is the bitter potion by which the physician within you heals your sick self. Therefore trust the physician, and drink his remedy in silence and tranquility.

Image Dynamics, Alpine, MB Quart, Pioneer...

'03 Liberty Renegade
RIP WRX


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 11:58 pm 
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Coal Country Wheelin
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darn DUDE!!! :lol:

That is gonna be a wild set up your getting goin!! Yeah you may need to find another way of goin insted of using the factory routing. That wont work for all that. Keep us updated with what you get going, I can't wait to see this set up!!!! What equipment are you slappin in?


Mike

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 12:37 am 
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Right now I have a set of Fosgate Power T162S components and a set of Image Dynamics CSX54's going into the doors, but the 162's are placeholders untill I can get ahold of a second set of ID CSX64's. Also have a set of MB Quart QSD 6.5" midbass drivers going into a kickpanel mount, and a set of Image Dynamics CD2Pro horn loaded compression drivers that I am trying to shoehorn under the dash. Runing everything I have an older Pioneer AVH-7490 dvd/indash screen sharing processing duty with a PPI DCX-730. Subs are currently 4 Kenwood 3011 12"s, but they are placeholders until I can pick up the Image Dynamics IDMax's the box was built too. Amps are Alpine PDX's on the midbass/tweeters, probably end up using the Zapco C2k 2.0 I have laying around on the horns, and a PA OV1-5500D on the sub until I can find something a little cleaner. Most of the install is stuff left laying around, and it will be swapped out as funds become available :)

Front doors are being completely rebuilt with a set of pods housing the 5.25", the 6.5", and one tweeter with the second molded/flushed into the sail panel. Also sculpted/deleted the map pocket area and they are getting re-textured and painted. Sub box is a glass/MDF affair molded along the back seat housing the amp rack for the OV as well as most of the power distribution. All the speaker amps are being mounted on an amp rack on the rear gate :)

Between the carpeting/several hundred sq feet of sound deadening and all the fiberglass work and it being the middle of winter I have my work cut out for me :shock:

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Much of your pain is self-chosen. It is the bitter potion by which the physician within you heals your sick self. Therefore trust the physician, and drink his remedy in silence and tranquility.

Image Dynamics, Alpine, MB Quart, Pioneer...

'03 Liberty Renegade
RIP WRX


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 3:19 am 
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Madlarkin i noticed your going to go with the ID Max subs. they are beautiful subs but even though they are rated for 1000 watts rms 1800 max (i think) they are at home at about 400-600 watt range because i put 1000 to one and it started to distort pretty good when the bass hit. i've already laid down about 60 sq ft of sound deadening myself and taking the whole jeep apart was no easy task. there is a hole with a plastic cover located passenger side closest to the gate under the trunk carpet thats about 1 1/2" - 2" big. just enough to run 4 0/1 gauge... heh. the dash would be hardest to disassemble as it has lots of screws and little pieces to keep track of. but about the wiring to the door i would use the drill hole, run the wires, then seal the hole with something like hot glue or something along thoughs lines because i tried running the wires through the rubber boot covering the power windows and locks thing and it didn't work out so well. also be aware that rain does get inside the doors and if your going to fiberglass i suggest making a small enclosure to prevent water getting on the speakers and/or crossovers. i mounted my crossovers in the fuse boxes on the sides of the dash with fit them perfectly depending on the size of the crossover. the roof deadening was the hardest as the visors have wires running to them that i could figure out how to disconnect so i just let the top inside (i had all the seats out at the time) and laid the roof dampening. make sure to upgrade the alternator as the stock one just couldn't handle my 1000 watt at 2 ohms mono and my 150x2 at 4 ohms 2 channel amp. i got mine from [url]excessiveamperage.com[/url]. also remember to upgrade your big 3. battery ground, alternator power line from battery, and engine ground. if you have any questions don't hesitate to drop me a line.

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RE XXX 12 subwoofer in 2.5 cubic ft slot vented box tuned to 32 hz
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MTX 6001 axe seperates 6 1/2 front speakers with 1" soft dome tweeters


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 8:33 am 
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Coal Country Wheelin
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madlarkin wrote:
Right now I have a set of Fosgate Power T162S components and a set of Image Dynamics CSX54's going into the doors, but the 162's are placeholders untill I can get ahold of a second set of ID CSX64's. Also have a set of MB Quart QSD 6.5" midbass drivers going into a kickpanel mount, and a set of Image Dynamics CD2Pro horn loaded compression drivers that I am trying to shoehorn under the dash. Runing everything I have an older Pioneer AVH-7490 dvd/indash screen sharing processing duty with a PPI DCX-730. Subs are currently 4 Kenwood 3011 12"s, but they are placeholders until I can pick up the Image Dynamics IDMax's the box was built too. Amps are Alpine PDX's on the midbass/tweeters, probably end up using the Zapco C2k 2.0 I have laying around on the horns, and a PA OV1-5500D on the sub until I can find something a little cleaner. Most of the install is stuff left laying around, and it will be swapped out as funds become available :)

Front doors are being completely rebuilt with a set of pods housing the 5.25", the 6.5", and one tweeter with the second molded/flushed into the sail panel. Also sculpted/deleted the map pocket area and they are getting re-textured and painted. Sub box is a glass/MDF affair molded along the back seat housing the amp rack for the OV as well as most of the power distribution. All the speaker amps are being mounted on an amp rack on the rear gate :)

Between the carpeting/several hundred sq feet of sound deadening and all the fiberglass work and it being the middle of winter I have my work cut out for me :shock:



WOW!!!! :shock: :shock: Now this I gotta see when you are in the process. I hope you take lots of pics and do some write ups. I would love to follow htis build up! Sounds like its going to be a beast of a system!

Mike

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 3:28 am 
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Sadly, I didnt take a ton of pictures through the first chunk of the build but I will try and snap some when I really start the tear down to get everything wired. Also figure I might be able to do a step by step when I tackle the second door. I am almost finished with the rear gate amp rack, and I gotta say I am happy with the finish. The doors are going to be re textured and painted black but the speaker pods, amp rack, part of the sub box, the kick panels and misc trim through the car is getting the line-x/hurculiner treatment. Gotta say the first piece looks pretty boss :)

I think I am pretty much stuck adding a second grommet for wiring. Anyone have any ideas? Ideally I would want it to also have a cover for the exposed wiring to keep it as insulated and OEM looking as possible.

_________________
Much of your pain is self-chosen. It is the bitter potion by which the physician within you heals your sick self. Therefore trust the physician, and drink his remedy in silence and tranquility.

Image Dynamics, Alpine, MB Quart, Pioneer...

'03 Liberty Renegade
RIP WRX


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 Post subject: w00t!
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 12:23 am 
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Whipped this up today and am happy with it so far. Panel is cut of 3/4" MDF and all the edges were hit with a quarter inch roundover bit on the 'ol router. All the passages for power/signal/speaker wire were either roundover'd or chamfered and then smoothed out with sandpaper. All the hardware is 8#-32 stainless mounted with 6 prong t-nuts from the back. The D-block for the ground is mounted to the back of the board along with a barrier strip to distribute the incoming remote on signal :)
Gave the Hurculiner a shot and the finish is actually pretty bad booty, looks a LOT better in person but I cant seem to snap a good photo to save my life :(

Like I mentioned, this is going to be mounted on the rear gate. Its already received a full layer of EDead SE/leftover Dynamat, and is going to be stuffed with egg carton acoustical foam. I still need to finish the trim panel. I carved up the stock piece and tried a few things but nothing yet the really does it for me. I think I am going to end up smoothing out the edges where I cut to fit this through, rebuilding/smoothing a few areas with fleece/fiberglass and then either herc-ing the whole thing or smoothing it and hitting it with SEM texture and paint.

Now I'm off to heatshrink/techflex all my power/ground/turn on wires and get the brackets for wiring into place.

_________________
Much of your pain is self-chosen. It is the bitter potion by which the physician within you heals your sick self. Therefore trust the physician, and drink his remedy in silence and tranquility.

Image Dynamics, Alpine, MB Quart, Pioneer...

'03 Liberty Renegade
RIP WRX


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