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 Post subject: Transfer case?????
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 6:59 pm 
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Location: Skinall, PA. N40° 45.47' W79° 34.47'
This afternoon I was driving on a snow covered road, it started getting a little too snow covered and I had some difficulty getting up a hill so I pulled the lever into 4 high. After a very stort amount of thim I started hearing a clicking from under the vehicle. After getting back onto cleared roads, I disengaged the 4 wheel drive lever but still heard the clicking. It got progressively worse and within a mile or so I started to feel a vibration in the seats and steering wheel. I pulled to the side of the road numerous times to see if there was anything visible, but nothing seemed out of place. Then it was as if the front wheels stopped pulling and only the rear wheels had power.

After getting home, I pulled into the garage and lifted the front end. I have isolated the noise to the front of the transfer case and the end of the front drive shaft. The end of the driveshaft seems to have alot of play in the front of the transfer case, and seems to almost spin freely by hand with the vehicle sitting in gear with the parking brake on.

The vehicle is out of warrenty, so I would like to do this fix myself. Anyone have a clue as to what happened, and what the fix is most likely going to be? I have priced a few transfer cases and front drive shafts on ebay, quite pricy but obtainable if need be.

As of this point, everything under the vehicle is stock. My transfer case only has 3 positions (2x4, 4x4 and 4x4 low) (not sure if that is select trac or command trac).

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Last edited by pafireman80 on Sun Jan 27, 2008 8:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Transfer case?????
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 7:33 pm 
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I'm assuming you mean part-time. At what speed were your driving when you pulled the lever. What was your top speed in 4wd mode. You can only shift-on-the-fly up to 55 mph. Was it snowing heavly? Part-time is only to be used in severe weather conditions. Deep snow, to the point where you can see the asphalt anymore. There may be damage to your transfer case. You can drain the oil and see if there are any metal shavings.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 7:37 pm 
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Location: Skinall, PA. N40° 45.47' W79° 34.47'
I was at a stop when I engaged the lever, there was about 3 inches of snow on the road. I did not go over 35 and was at the end of the road with in a very short distance. I have not had the opportunity to drain the fluid yet, I had my kids with me so we just got in the truck and went back to their house.

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Ernie
N40° 45.47' W79° 34.47'
L.O.S.T. # 5275
2003 KJ Sport
Bright Silver metalic
Tow package
3.7 with manual trans.


2005 Chevy Silverado Z-71 Crew
5.3 V8, auto trans, Hankook Dynapro MT 285/75/17, stainless step tubes, Eagle cap.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 7:44 pm 
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The front axle is made out of aluminum and is prone to breakage. Check the yoke/collar for cracks. :shock:

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AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 7:48 pm 
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Location: Skinall, PA. N40° 45.47' W79° 34.47'
I got under the kj for a few minutes, it seems like there is alot of play where the shaft goes into the front of the t-case. is there a bearing set in there that might have gone bad?

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Ernie
N40° 45.47' W79° 34.47'
L.O.S.T. # 5275
2003 KJ Sport
Bright Silver metalic
Tow package
3.7 with manual trans.


2005 Chevy Silverado Z-71 Crew
5.3 V8, auto trans, Hankook Dynapro MT 285/75/17, stainless step tubes, Eagle cap.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 8:25 pm 
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If youre turning the shaft by hand then some play is normal.

If you mean it has horizontal and vertical play then thats not normal. Could just be a bad CV joint in the front driveshaft and putting it in 4wd woke it up. Best way to see if thats the problem is to take the shaft out and see if it stops. Its not TO hard to get it out as it just bolts up. Spray some PB blaster on the bolts a few days before you try to get all the bolts out. It will help get them out.

Could also be a bad CV joint at one of the front wheels. Check those.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 8:34 pm 
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Location: Skinall, PA. N40° 45.47' W79° 34.47'
I will definately try that and see what happens. while I had the front end in the air, I turned the front driver side wheel by hand and the sound was definately coming from the front of the t-case though.

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Ernie
N40° 45.47' W79° 34.47'
L.O.S.T. # 5275
2003 KJ Sport
Bright Silver metalic
Tow package
3.7 with manual trans.


2005 Chevy Silverado Z-71 Crew
5.3 V8, auto trans, Hankook Dynapro MT 285/75/17, stainless step tubes, Eagle cap.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 9:03 pm 
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Then its a good possibility thats what it is. Those tcases are fairly stout so Im doubting its a problem with it unless its been mistreated or the fluid has not been changed.

How many miles are on it?

Those shafts are kinda $$. You may want to look at junk yards for a good used one if you dont want to buy new. I think they are around $400 from a dealer..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 12:45 am 
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I would guess it is your CV axles also. Had the same problem recently with clicking in the front end whenever the vehicle climbed hills and put a little stress on the front CV axles. Behaved the same that you are indicating. Had to replace both CV axles and used aftermarket ones like Kragen/Autozone (I believe parts were around $150 each axle --if going with Chrysler axles, much more $s). Would be interested to hear what you find out, so please keep us posted.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 10:23 am 
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That is odd. If the noise is really the axle itself it's a very very strange coincidence that the noise came when selecing 4HI.

The libby has no free wheeling hubs on the front so the axle turns even if you are not in any 4wd mode. Funny how that would change by selecting a 4wd mode and suddenly notice a sound.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 2:51 pm 
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Location: Skinall, PA. N40° 45.47' W79° 34.47'
The sound definately gets louder when puting a load on the system (going up a hill). Unfortunately, I am at work now till Friday morning. I plan on draining the fluid from the t-case and doing alot more investigating with the drive shaft and axles also.

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Ernie
N40° 45.47' W79° 34.47'
L.O.S.T. # 5275
2003 KJ Sport
Bright Silver metalic
Tow package
3.7 with manual trans.


2005 Chevy Silverado Z-71 Crew
5.3 V8, auto trans, Hankook Dynapro MT 285/75/17, stainless step tubes, Eagle cap.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:10 am 
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In my case, the noise definitely got worse when a load/stress was placed on the vehicle, such as climbing hills in 4-wheel drive. The mechanic said the problem was really there whether in 4-Wheel or 2-wheel drive, but the added stress placed on the axles when climbing caused the noise to exagerate and finally be heard from inside the vehicle. As a test, I placed the vehicle at the bottom of a steep dirt incline and put the vehicle in 4-wheel drive. From a completely stopped position, I then climbed the hill. The noise the CV axles made was an unmistakable hollow, clicking noise. Fairly loud. Couldn't miss it. Put vehicle back in 2-wheel drive and drove the same hill. Could lightly hear the hollow noise, but definitely not like it was before in 4-wheel drive. I'm not a mechanic so can't tell you the "whys" on this, but I can tell you that after replacing the CV axles, the noise is gone.

Now my concern is how often am I going to have to keep replacing these axles?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:45 am 
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When the libby is in 4wd there is a lot of torque bieng applied to the driveline. when in 2wd there is no torque bieng applied to the front of the drivline. The torque will make the noise and vibration louder and more noticable until the cv eventually breaks. If the cv boot was ripped, all the grease will come out and dirt will go in accelerating the wear. It is possible to replace just a boot if that was the only problem. CV shafts are not hard to change. Refer to a manual at your local auto parts store to see if you are up to the task.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:51 am 
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Okay, see if this explanation makes sense on the question of why the noise would be more evident when in 4-wheel drive: we know that the axles are always turning on the Liberty, whether in 2-wheel or 4-wheel drive. When 4-wheel drive is selected, however, the hubs become engaged and that creates more torque on the axles (and more stress) on the front end. With the added stress, the noise is more apparent. Does that make sense?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:53 am 
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Location: Skinall, PA. N40° 45.47' W79° 34.47'
It was to the point on Sunday that going down the road in 2wd that there is a serious vibration about every 3 seconds at around 25 mph, and the vibration last about 3 seconds. I am near certian that it is not in the axles, but in the drive shaft or t-case. As I states, the clicking and clunking while I am under the vehicle appears to be coming from the very front of the t-case. At this point it is not safe to drive, I may just have it towed to the nearest stealership and see what they find with it. I hate to do that, but I am far from a mechanic. Figures that the warrenty just expired on the 21st of this month....... There is 75,100 miles on the vehicle.

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Ernie
N40° 45.47' W79° 34.47'
L.O.S.T. # 5275
2003 KJ Sport
Bright Silver metalic
Tow package
3.7 with manual trans.


2005 Chevy Silverado Z-71 Crew
5.3 V8, auto trans, Hankook Dynapro MT 285/75/17, stainless step tubes, Eagle cap.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:55 am 
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Thanks, Trac95ker. You hit it right on with your explanation before I had a chance to press "send".

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 1:00 am 
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Please keep us posted on what you find out when you do have it towed to the dealership. Would be interested in hearing what they say is ultimately the problem. Good luck.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 1:40 am 
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FYI Saw the following from www.partstrain.com website regarding the Jeep Axle Assembly: "...A clicking noise when turning is usually a symptom of a defective outer CV joint. On the other hand, a shudder, clunking sound, and vibration when accelerating and decelerating usually comes from a poorly working inner CV joint..." My experience with my replacements is the CV Axle is sold as one complete assembly (one axle assembly for the driver's side and one for the passenger side), so the replacement assembly would take care of both the outer and inner CV joint I believe. From other postings on Liberty forums, the vibration/shudder you experience seems to be a common symptom with a defective CV axle (besides the clicking sound). The partstrain website gives a good picture in case that helps.

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 Post subject: You might look at Extreme 4x4
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 4:13 am 
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Go to : http://www.powerblocktv.com/sites/xtreme/episodes/
This lists different options in transfer cases, if your not covered bu warranty. this may give you alternative possibilties. Nothing is ever cheap but if your going to spend the bucks maybe get a better upgrade :shock: :twisted:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 8:45 am 
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If you will just remove the front driveshaft and take it for a drive, you will instantly know if it is the driveshaft or the cv halfshafts. I had the same problem last year and it turned out to be the front driveshaft. It sounded just like it could be coming from the right side CV halfshaft. If you decide to remove the front driveshaft just mark the companion flanges on each side to the shaft ends so you can line it up in the same position when you re-install it. This is really a lot easier to remove than the CV halfshafts and will tell you "for sure" if it is the front driveshaft. Mine was bad and I replaced it with a Tom Wood's heavy duty CV driveshaft and replaced the companion flanges with yokes. Good luck. :D

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