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 Post subject: Thanks - Lift on the way!
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 2:14 pm 
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Thanks for those that helped with input! I have the Rusty's kit on the way. Went this route since it is a 1 purchase deal and will likely serve my purpose just fine. Anyway, Pretty fired up about it so cant wait till the next mod.

Any recommendations on the next mod? Outside of the lift and bigger tires the KJ is a stock Freedom Edition.

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 2:57 pm 
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I'm sure some would agree to put on some skids on the underbelly. Some KJs had those stock, so if you don't have them you might want to check into it. It nearly does not matter what kind of surface you wheel on, the transmission is so low it needs protection from the elements...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 4:39 pm 
wheels and skids. you'll want to go to a 5" or 4.5" backspace on the wheels. with the lift, a wider tire will rub on the swaybar with the stock wheels


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 5:57 pm 
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okay. so while this thread is up. gonna throw my question into the mix. I have the frankenlift premium II sitting on my floor right now with als a arms. with the lift I should be able to clear 245/45/17's right? without rubbing. I have stock 17's now. The guy who was trying to set me up with some rims was trying to sell me some 17x9. Is that okay?

Another question while I am at it. If I went down to 16's to get a wider range of tire choices will this have any ill effects on the KJ since I went down in rim size?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 6:12 pm 
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06KJLimited wrote:
okay. so while this thread is up. gonna throw my question into the mix. I have the frankenlift premium II sitting on my floor right now with als a arms. with the lift I should be able to clear 245/45/17's right? without rubbing. I have stock 17's now. The guy who was trying to set me up with some rims was trying to sell me some 17x9. Is that okay?

Another question while I am at it. If I went down to 16's to get a wider range of tire choices will this have any ill effects on the KJ since I went down in rim size?


I think you mean 245/75/17's, right?

Anyway, That si what I am doing. I am loosing my stock 17's and got the AEV Bridgers 16x8's so I can have more choices on tires.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 6:13 pm 
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Going to 16 inch wheels will make it easier to get tires and wheels for sure. Depending on back spacing but a nine inch wheel will give you some problems.

You have to fiqure that a Moab wheel 16X8 with 5 inch backspacing works really well, 16 x7 with 4.5 backspacing will work as well, anything out of that range will rub when flexing much

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 6:22 pm 
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okay. for a rookie that doesnt understand what the backspacing is. could you please explain it to me so I could understand.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 6:44 pm 
With a 17x8 wheel i'd go 245/70-17. you can get the BFG MT KM2's in that size:D:D

Also, backspacing is essentially how close or how far away from the car the wheel sits. stock KJ wheels have a 5.5" backspacing...the bigger the number, the closer to the car it sits. with a lift and 245s, you'll want a 5" or 4.5" backspace wheel to get the tire further away from the swaybar, but that results in more trimming of the fenderwells.

and a 245/45-17 is the size I'm looking at for my next T-bird...hardly appropriate for a lifted Jeep.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 8:18 pm 
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I went with the Rubicon rims, but it was a hard decision between them and the AEV Bridgers. Either one will fit with minimal trimming and 245/75R16's with a 2.5" lift. They give it a really good stance. With the 17's, a 245/70R17 is going to be the same size. A 245/75R17 is just under 32" and is going to be a lot more difficult to fit. You'll also really need to go to 4.10 gears instead of just really wanting to go to them after going to 31's. If you stay with the stock backspacing, you're probably going to get rubbing on the sway bar. For the 17's, something around 5" bs and 7.5" wide or 4.5" bs and 7" wide would probably be best with the 245's. Some 245's won't hold a good bead on an 8" or wider, so make sure to check the approved rim width of the tires you go with.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 10:03 pm 
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KY Liberty wrote:
I went with the Rubicon rims, but it was a hard decision between them and the AEV Bridgers. Either one will fit with minimal trimming and 245/75R16's with a 2.5" lift. They give it a really good stance. With the 17's, a 245/70R17 is going to be the same size. A 245/75R17 is just under 32" and is going to be a lot more difficult to fit. You'll also really need to go to 4.10 gears instead of just really wanting to go to them after going to 31's. If you stay with the stock backspacing, you're probably going to get rubbing on the sway bar. For the 17's, something around 5" bs and 7.5" wide or 4.5" bs and 7" wide would probably be best with the 245's. Some 245's won't hold a good bead on an 8" or wider, so make sure to check the approved rim width of the tires you go with.


I'm currently running 245 75 17 REVO's without a lift :shock: Rubbing a bit, hence the purchase of a lift. My Freedom Edition came with the 17's and the 245 REVO's sit perfect on them. Hope this lift gives me the clearance I need. As for the Gears; why would I want to upgrade to 410's? Thanks!

To the other posters Thought about Skid Plates but this is the wifes DD. That said 4 Wheeling will not be common place for this rig. What, besides a KN filter is available for the 3.7. I read about the blowers available but the cost is a joke for a Liberty.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 10:33 pm 
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06KJLimited wrote:
okay. for a rookie that doesnt understand what the backspacing is. could you please explain it to me so I could understand.


Say you have an 8' rim width with 4" outside the center and 4" inside the center of the wheel...that is 4" backspacing. Now say you have a 9" rim with the same 4" outside the center...the backspacing (space on the back of the wheel from the center) would be 5". The LESS the backspacing...the MORE the rim will stick out from the vehicle. The MORE the backspacing...the MORE the rim will suck under the vehicle.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 11:22 pm 
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ONECRUNCH wrote:
KY Liberty wrote:
I went with the Rubicon rims, but it was a hard decision between them and the AEV Bridgers. Either one will fit with minimal trimming and 245/75R16's with a 2.5" lift. They give it a really good stance. With the 17's, a 245/70R17 is going to be the same size. A 245/75R17 is just under 32" and is going to be a lot more difficult to fit. You'll also really need to go to 4.10 gears instead of just really wanting to go to them after going to 31's. If you stay with the stock backspacing, you're probably going to get rubbing on the sway bar. For the 17's, something around 5" bs and 7.5" wide or 4.5" bs and 7" wide would probably be best with the 245's. Some 245's won't hold a good bead on an 8" or wider, so make sure to check the approved rim width of the tires you go with.


I'm currently running 245 75 17 REVO's without a lift :shock: Rubbing a bit, hence the purchase of a lift. My Freedom Edition came with the 17's and the 245 REVO's sit perfect on them. Hope this lift gives me the clearance I need. As for the Gears; why would I want to upgrade to 410's? Thanks!

To the other posters Thought about Skid Plates but this is the wifes DD. That said 4 Wheeling will not be common place for this rig. What, besides a KN filter is available for the 3.7. I read about the blowers available but the cost is a joke for a Liberty.


You sure you have 245/75R17 REVO's without rubbing on a non-lifted Liberty? Bridgestone doesn't actually list that they even make them in that size. If you did manage to get some 245/75R17's on it, can you turn? Those would be an inch bigger in diameter than what I'm running with a Frankenlift.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 12:54 am 
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KY Liberty wrote:
You sure you have 245/75R17 REVO's without rubbing on a non-lifted Liberty? Bridgestone doesn't actually list that they even make them in that size. If you did manage to get some 245/75R17's on it, can you turn? Those would be an inch bigger in diameter than what I'm running with a Frankenlift.


My Bad - They are 245 70 17's and the rubbing is not that bad after hacking the wheel wells and working the pinch welds. Gets worse though when the wife and kid are in the car.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 8:43 pm 
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ONECRUNCH wrote:
KY Liberty wrote:
You sure you have 245/75R17 REVO's without rubbing on a non-lifted Liberty? Bridgestone doesn't actually list that they even make them in that size. If you did manage to get some 245/75R17's on it, can you turn? Those would be an inch bigger in diameter than what I'm running with a Frankenlift.


My Bad - They are 245 70 17's and the rubbing is not that bad after hacking the wheel wells and working the pinch welds. Gets worse though when the wife and kid are in the car.


Those are very close in size to the 245/75R16 Silent Armors I'm running. Sounds like a really tight fit. How are the edges of the front tires holding up? Are they round yet? You've got to get that lift on it. Once it's lifted, the front wheels may be in a little too close. If you have the 17X7" with 5.5" bs, you could go with a set of Spidertrax 1.25" spacers, or with about a 5-6 mm spacer which is as big as you could go because of the lug lengths, and the extended thread lug nuts don't fit through the holes of the stock rims. The 1.25" spacers with the 17X7.5" is going to be 1/4" farther out than the Rubicon rims. If you plan to offroad, you might need some bump stops to keep them off the fenders. You could also go the route of different rims if the stock rims pose a problem.

You can do a lot more than just an upgraded filter. Just not anywhere near what you can do with the Cobra. The 4.10 gears will give you back a lot of the power loss you feel by going from 29" to 30.5" tires. As for intake upgrades, a good drop in filter as at least as good as a cone setup unless you do something to get a lot of cool air to it. You can get a Fastman throttle body to upgrade the intake also. If you haven't upgraded your exhaust, the muffler and small section near it with a small decrease in diamter are all you really need to take care of. A complete cat back will help just a little bit more. Headers aren't available except for the '05-'06, and possibly the '07 if the Dodge Nitro headers from JBA will fit it. With an '03, you need to check and see if you have the 45RFE or 42RLE transmission. If you have the 42RLE, a shift correction kit from Transgo is available. If you have the 45RFE, a shift correction kit, and a performance shift kit are available. APS makes upgraded torque converters for both. You also need to get the computer reprogrammed. Get an aggressive flash with the torque management deleted from B&G Chrysler. Upgrades on the 3.7 really don't work very well without it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 9:23 pm 
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Guys I have seen everyone trimming the front bumper. Is that a necessity when you lift the KJ so it doesnt rub? Or just for looks?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 10:05 pm 
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06KJLimited wrote:
Guys I have seen everyone trimming the front bumper. Is that a necessity when you lift the KJ so it doesnt rub? Or just for looks?


On the '05 and newer it is an easy way too take care of the rubbing in the front of the wheel well to clear 265's. It also gives the Libby the appearance of being "bigger", especially with the flat Renegade hood.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 1:06 am 
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KY Liberty wrote:

Those are very close in size to the 245/75R16 Silent Armors I'm running. Sounds like a really tight fit. How are the edges of the front tires holding up? Are they round yet? You've got to get that lift on it. Once it's lifted, the front wheels may be in a little too close. If you have the 17X7" with 5.5" bs, you could go with a set of Spidertrax 1.25" spacers, or with about a 5-6 mm spacer which is as big as you could go because of the lug lengths, and the extended thread lug nuts don't fit through the holes of the stock rims. The 1.25" spacers with the 17X7.5" is going to be 1/4" farther out than the Rubicon rims. If you plan to offroad, you might need some bump stops to keep them off the fenders. You could also go the route of different rims if the stock rims pose a problem.

You can do a lot more than just an upgraded filter. Just not anywhere near what you can do with the Cobra. The 4.10 gears will give you back a lot of the power loss you feel by going from 29" to 30.5" tires. As for intake upgrades, a good drop in filter as at least as good as a cone setup unless you do something to get a lot of cool air to it. You can get a Fastman throttle body to upgrade the intake also. If you haven't upgraded your exhaust, the muffler and small section near it with a small decrease in diamter are all you really need to take care of. A complete cat back will help just a little bit more. Headers aren't available except for the '05-'06, and possibly the '07 if the Dodge Nitro headers from JBA will fit it. With an '03, you need to check and see if you have the 45RFE or 42RLE transmission. If you have the 42RLE, a shift correction kit from Transgo is available. If you have the 45RFE, a shift correction kit, and a performance shift kit are available. APS makes upgraded torque converters for both. You also need to get the computer reprogrammed. Get an aggressive flash with the torque management deleted from B&G Chrysler. Upgrades on the 3.7 really don't work very well without it.


I dont have but 500 miles on the tires thus far, mostly highway and the rubbing is minimal. only rubs under hard turns over bumps. No tire wear is visible at this point. Talk about filling the wells though..... I'm not sure of the stock wheel width, stock Freedom Rims, but feel they would look much better if they were sitting out about 1 inch. I am getting the spacers not only for looks but to increase track width. I feel it is important since the KJ will be taller for stability on turning.

Thanks for the info on the typical mods. You mentioned reprogramming the computer. Is this done through a chip or are people actually tuning these through a tuner with canned or custon tunes?

THX!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 7:21 pm 
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To get the computer reprogrammed, you can overnight your PCM to B&G, they will program it, and then overnight it back to you. You can also pick up an extra PCM and send them it, but you will need to get your VIN and keys programmed to it. There are no programmers for the 3.7. Also, the Jet chips just don't work with it. Unlike Jet, I actually dyno'd their Stage 1 with the 3.7. It lost power across the entire rpm range. They finally admitted that they had never even tried the chip in a 3.7 KJ, but could point me to a Dodge forum where some people with a completely different motor liked the same chip they had sold me. They also offered to reprogram it correctly for another $400, but said that they wouldn't need my dyno graphs that I had offered them when inquiring about the chip not working correctly. Really don't know how they thought they could do that.

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