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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 3:45 am 
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The pressures were legit numbers, but all 51psi, as the tire pressures were set above that point.

I don't have the specific part number for the sensor right now, but I think that I might have a buggy sensor too... The car has been reading "low pressure" for days now, and I know all the tires are at the same correct pressure.

The scanner with the Mopar enhanced is being shipped out on Friday. Hopefully this allows me in to fix the problem... Or this could be a very expensive test.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 2:11 pm 
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The BCM coding is applied on the assembly line with an End-Of-Line tester. In the Jeep database each vehicle has its own file that specifies which options is has, VIN, etc. and also programs the relevant information into all of the associated modules in the vehicle. In some cases the DRB can address these issues, however in some cases it has to be either reflashed with end-of-line tester with new code or the engineering diagnostic tool. The DRB can also be set into different modes (engineering, production, end-of-line) which enables different options and may be what it takes to enable the TPMS. I am not sure if the sensors in the wheels are different or not - might be something to check into.

The low pressure warning that doesn't disappear might stem from the TPM having lost comm with the sensor. I know there is a procedure that you can initialize within the TPM to re-acquire the sensor and usually solves the problem.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:29 pm 
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Just because everyone is gathered in one place. Save me a search with 300 pages of stuff that may not answer my question.

What is the reccomended scan tool for our little kersoene burner? And generally how much do these cost?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:57 pm 
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MrMopar64 wrote:
The BCM coding is applied on the assembly line with an End-Of-Line tester. In the Jeep database each vehicle has its own file that specifies which options is has, VIN, etc. and also programs the relevant information into all of the associated modules in the vehicle. In some cases the DRB can address these issues, however in some cases it has to be either reflashed with end-of-line tester with new code or the engineering diagnostic tool. The DRB can also be set into different modes (engineering, production, end-of-line) which enables different options and may be what it takes to enable the TPMS. I am not sure if the sensors in the wheels are different or not - might be something to check into.

The low pressure warning that doesn't disappear might stem from the TPM having lost comm with the sensor. I know there is a procedure that you can initialize within the TPM to re-acquire the sensor and usually solves the problem.


Well, the dealer tech that I gave some beer money to, to try and at least turn off the low pressure idiot light couldn't figure it out, and wouldn't let me play with his DRB tool. So I'm on hold until the very expensive AE kit shows up this week.

You wouldn't happen to know the procedure to re-initialize the sensors, would you?

I don't believe the sensors are different, but I have a Limited, and I know I have the premium BCM b/c I have the TPMS already, with the idiot light in the cluster. I also have the keyless entry (obviously, we should all have that) and the Mopar remote starter, which when it was replaced, they were talking about the premium BCM and keymatching for the skreem module. I highly suspect that the DRBIII was either not presenting the options to the tech, or he was just not reading it right. It would make sense that the DRB would not easily show such functions like recoding the BCM options, as then every dealer tech could be turning on all the toys on cars that hadn't had the toys overpaid for. But thats just my X-Files brain talking. The AE kit should be like the Vag-Com... Give me access to everything, and let me be the one to decide what toys to turn on. I'm gonna probably turn them all on. :twisted:

I do suspect a sensor, as it was about 35 degrees out when I was dumping air to pull a truck out of the mud, and I'm sure the temp on the sensor was far below freezing with the expansion cooling that was happening. The tires were all stone-cold to start with, and I took them from 80psi down to about 15-20 so I would have a nice fat load surface. It worked too, as I was able to pull out a mostly-loaded 10,000 GVWR 16' box out of the rim-deep hole it had gotten itself into. And kept pulling as we drove the long block or so through the soft ground to get back to pavement.

I love this little freight train, it certainly proved itself with that day.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 12:57 am 
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What pressure are you running in your tires? I only have the idiot light, but it turns on if I air up much above 40 PSI. I only ask because you made mention of 80 PSI. I assume those are a D or E load range tire?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 2:38 am 
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They are Load range E 215/85/16 BF Goodrich Commercial T/A M+S Highway truck tires... Exactly the same construction as their big brothers in the 22.5 rim size. Sidewall max is 80psi, which offers a load capacity just south of 3000# per tire. This may seem like a lot, but I like the idea that my vehicle has far more tire than it needs to do the job. That way, I get better mileage from both the tire, and the vehicle. Potentially I could run them anywhere from 45psi on up, but unless I get precise weights for each wheel's loading, I'm going to go with the sidewall's number. I don't like the idea of running them close to 50% of their max anyway, even with the steel sidewall. Its just not good for the tire.

The idiot light on mine does not activate with high pressure, but IIRC, the sensors can't read higher than 51psi anyway.

For the naysayers who will start complaining about how stiff the ride must be or how dangerous this is... Save it. I know what I'm doing is perfectly safe based on MANY vehicle sizes I have owned, and I happen to like a crisp ride where I don't feel that the car is mushy. Anyone is welcome to come and take a test ride on my tires to compare with their own overworked, under-rated BadYear Wranglers or whatever. I don't give a rip what the Jeep-recommended pressures on the door are, I don't have the stock tires they tested with anymore. These are a non-stock size, and a non-stock load range. Why would stock numbers be acceptable?

As a funny thought that kinda proves the dealer techs might not know that much... The tech was more concerned with the 80psi of my tires... Not because he thought it was too much for the sensors, but that it was too much for the aluminum rims.

Uhm... If solid METAL can't handle 80 pounds per square inch (and far more than that too) how can it hope to support 1900# (the stock tire's load capacity) on just those 5 stud holes?
Yea... I don't think 80psi is gonna bother solid aluminum that is more than 1/4" thick. :roll:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 2:52 am 
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I don't follow the door either... I have a set of BFG TA KOs and i run them between 45 and 55 psi depending on the upcoming weather condition...

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:55 am 
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geordi wrote:
As a funny thought that kinda proves the dealer techs might not know that much... The tech was more concerned with the 80psi of my tires... Not because he thought it was too much for the sensors, but that it was too much for the aluminum rims.

Uhm... If solid METAL can't handle 80 pounds per square inch (and far more than that too) how can it hope to support 1900# (the stock tire's load capacity) on just those 5 stud holes?
Yea... I don't think 80psi is gonna bother solid aluminum that is more than 1/4" thick. :roll:


I've read this before on the towing forums on rv.net. Alloy wheels can have varying pressure ratings. I've never read of any similar concerns about steelies. I imagine it has to do not so much with the static pressure of 80psi, but with how the resulting forces get transmitted laterally against the lips of the wheels (which after all is where all the weight must ultimately be carried). I've never researched it to verify it, but I've seen a number of old hands bring this up.

If you take a 1" strip of tire sidewall near the wheel lip and follow it around in a 15" diameter circle, that's about 47" x 1" = 47 sqin per side, which resists 3760lbs of force on each side around the lip. The reality is far more complicated, I'm sure, but this is a ballpark to get a feel of the scale of the forces involved.

I run our Pirelli Scorpion ATR LR-D tires at 45psi. The ride begins to harshen a bit after that, at least to my well-padded posterior. I'm sure every tire's high pressure ride characteristic is different.

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 Post subject: Any way to turn off the TPMS
PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 6:28 pm 
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Hi there, this is a very interesting thread and hopefully you can assist me.

I'm going to buy 16" Moab rims with 245/75 :D. The rims don't have tire pressure sensors and furthermore I want less pressure than for original tires.

Is there any way to turn this thing off? - it is not required where I live here up north. Mine is a 2006 limited and thus with the EVIC console. I understand there are at least two different system, my system does not show pressure in individual tires but info for low pressure in the spare is indicated separately.

Hjalti

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 Post subject: Re: Recoding for TPMS - And other fun with scan tools
PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 3:20 pm 
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Geordi, did you ever figure out how to get the individual tires to show up on the EVIC? I'm looking into this mod and am just curious as to what to expect. I know this is an old thread, but I think I've read every EVIC one on this forum and elsewhere.

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 Post subject: Re: Recoding for TPMS - And other fun with scan tools
PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 9:09 pm 
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I was never successful. I installed 2 different EVIC units (I still have one if you are interested) and the TPMS screen appeared on the second unit when the power came on, it displayed the tires individually... And then that screen disappeared and never returned. I suspect it went away because of the coding in the BCM, and I was never able to get a DRBIII unit to play with myself to look for the coding screen.

BOTH of the EVIC units I bought were supposed to have TPMS functionality, but the first one (that is the one I still have) never displayed anything special. It was the correct part number for a 2005 however. $50 shipped and it is yours. PayPal me tonight, and I will happily ship it to you tomorrow. You will need to purchase the upper roof mount from a dealer, but that wasn't too expensive as I recall. You may also require the plug and a bit of wire, but any EVIC plug from a boneyard will get you that.


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Last edited by geordi on Wed Sep 11, 2013 11:34 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Recoding for TPMS - And other fun with scan tools
PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 4:35 am 
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I have an EVIC module sitting in a box on my garage shelf, that came out of a 2004 KJ that I want to sell.

It will read tire pressure, program the key flob and every other thing, but it will not read the ambient temperature,

It came out of a 2004 KJ and all of the features work fine when installed in a 2004 KJ but not in a later KJ. some said that it could but I couldn't figure it out.

The tire pressure indicator works in conjunction with the correct TPMS sensors installed in the tires, which I purchased and had installed and are still in the tires now and will not pay to remove them. The tire pressure indicator worked properly.

I couldn't figure out how to activate the outside temperature gauge and how to turn off the chimes.

If someone wants to try to to figure it out or doesn't mind not having the ambient air temperature gage read out then I'll let it go for $80.00, that's $80.00 less than what I paid for it.

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 Post subject: Re: Recoding for TPMS - And other fun with scan tools
PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 12:16 pm 
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Can someone who has done this clarify which is the premium EVIC with TPMS, Homelink, Sunroof controls: 56010520AD or 56010527AD?

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 Post subject: Re: Recoding for TPMS - And other fun with scan tools
PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 1:10 pm 
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Geordi, what is the part number on that EVIC if you still have it? I'm not too worried about TPMS but I would like the ambient temp to work in my 05 CRD.

geordi wrote:
BOTH of the EVIC units I bought were supposed to have TPMS functionality, but the first one (that is the one I still have) never displayed anything special. It was the correct part number for a 2005 however. $50 shipped and it is yours. PayPal me tonight, and I will happily ship it to you tomorrow. You will need to purchase the upper roof mount from a dealer, but that wasn't too expensive as I recall. You may also require the plug and a bit of wire, but any EVIC plug from a boneyard will get you that.


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 Post subject: Re: Recoding for TPMS - And other fun with scan tools
PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 9:31 pm 
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downtowncb wrote:
Geordi, what is the part number on that EVIC if you still have it? I'm not too worried about TPMS but I would like the ambient temp to work in my 05 CRD.

geordi wrote:
BOTH of the EVIC units I bought were supposed to have TPMS functionality, but the first one (that is the one I still have) never displayed anything special. It was the correct part number for a 2005 however. $50 shipped and it is yours. PayPal me tonight, and I will happily ship it to you tomorrow. You will need to purchase the upper roof mount from a dealer, but that wasn't too expensive as I recall. You may also require the plug and a bit of wire, but any EVIC plug from a boneyard will get you that.


56042754AJ is the part number of the non-TPMS unit I still have. IIRC the temp sensor worked fine with my 05.

Check your PMs - I'll send you my Paypal info if you are interested in it. I'd love to get this out of the cabinet it has been sitting in.

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