Upper A-Arm Install....

jdumont · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 1:15 pm

Considering getting new Al's uppers for when i put in my OME927's to replace the Rustys in a few weeks.

-How difficult is it to replace the arms once the strut assy is out of the picture? I wouldnt imagine its not all that hard other than getting at the bolts on either side?

-Any write up around for this?

Thanks in advance
Josh

kolesy · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 1:19 pm

I don't know of a write up but it wasa pretty easy when I did mine. It will really help if you have someone else there to help when you place the new arms in, that way they can hold them in place while you get the bolts started.

You will have everything removed anyway so all you need to do is remove the two bolts holding each arm on. Just be sure you have a grip of extensions!

Mike

jdumont · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 1:40 pm

"a grip of extensions"?...... You must mean a crap load of extensions right?

So I guess my next question is where do I order them from and is there any deals to be had anywhere?

kolesy · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 1:42 pm

yeah I meant a crap load of extensions. Sorry.

You can order them from JeepinByAl, rock Lizard, or AllJs carries them. I dont really know if there is price difference between the two but just check out each of their websites. They come with the MOOG balljoints already installed too.

Mike

Jeep4me99 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 1:48 pm

Kolesy: what extensions do you recommend, and do you remember what size socket is needed for the UCA bolts? Mine should be arriving today.

kolesy · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 1:53 pm

I dont remember the size of the socket, I did mine almost two years ago now I think. But I remember I had to have about 18" worth of extensions to get at the rear bolts.

Mike

jdumont · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 1:56 pm

Ewww, Im wondering if I even need to install the new uppers. I have no UBJ contact (that I know of) right now with the Rustys kit and an ARB. Once I install the OME springs I expect it will sit a little higher (less sag) though. Id rather not spend $400 on these arms if I really wont need them.... especially with MOTORCYCLE season right around the corner... WOOOO HOOOOO!!!!!

kolesy · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 2:16 pm

Well I have the rustys coils, his upper strut plate, and a 3/8" clevis, with the stock bumper. Yours will be lowerthan mine with the weight of the arb but, with all those things i done to my setup i had no BJ/spring contact while sittin level but when the suspension was at full droop I had it. Especially when I went over a speed bump to quick I would hear a loud bang. It was the BJ hitting the spring. That is why I got the new upper a-arms and they solved that issue. But you would want o ask others that have the OME HDs and 3/8 clevis with the ARB to see if they have any contact cause I cant help ya out there.

Mike

Jeep4me99 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 2:16 pm

kolesy wrote:

I dont remember the size of the socket, I did mine almost two years ago now I think. But I remember I had to have about 18" worth of extensions to get at the rear bolts.

Mike

any special ones, angles or swivels?

thanks mike

kolesy · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 2:24 pm

Actually I think I remember using a swivel, wouldnt hurt to have one ya know.

Mike

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 3:09 pm

If installed alot of Al's UCA's,i have a "special" set-up to do the bolts------3/8" drive "flex head" ratchet(works wonders),15" extension(for those rear bolts),a 3/8" drive impact swival(works alot better then the normal universal joints),and a 18mm deep well socket.You do not need to hold the other side of the bolts with a wrench(thank god!),but after you break the nuts loose you will need to hold the extension to to make the ratchet "rachet" to keep turning the nut off.

LostEddie · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 3:31 pm

Does the 18mm socket have to be deep well or can I use my standard 18mm?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 3:36 pm

LostEddie wrote:

Does the 18mm socket have to be deep well or can I use my standard 18mm?

You can use a standard socket(I would highly recommend against it) but only about 1/3 of it will actually contact the nut until you loosen it a ways and can round the nut off if your not very carefull,a deepwell works much better,less chance of rounding the nut off with the swivel attached.

Jeep4me99 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 4:13 pm

stopped by pep boys on my way into work, picked up an extra extension and swivel. also picked up a 17 mm by mistake, guess i'll just stop back and exchange it. Checked a 19mm before leaving and it was a bit too big.

Also picked up some synthetic all-purpose grease. any suggestions on how much to pump in, i know not enough to ballon the boot.

Also, does the washer got on top of or below the steering knuckle.

I'll be tearing into this tonight and tommo. My new CV is supposed to arrive tommo along with the rear y-link extension.

jdumont · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 4:19 pm

So does the strut assy get in the way at all while doing the UCA? My original plan was to replace the UCA while I had everything apart to swap my Rustys spring for the OME's because I thought it couldnt be done hassle free without removing the strut.... If thats not the case then ill just do the springs now.

Id like to not have to drop all the cash now for the UCA if I dont have to.

Maybe I can wait till the end of summer or something and do it then if I still need it after the OME settle.

Who knows, i dont really do any serious wheeling so maybe UBJ contact wont be an issue. I do love to jump curbs and small children however.....

dloc_jeep_KJ · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 4:51 pm

so what about ABS isnt it right in the way. ive had the pass side off before but the drivers looked like i would have to move some brake lines.
oh and u can leave ur strut assembly on while u change ur UCA.

Jeep4me99 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 5:04 pm

yes you can change the UCA's with out removing the strut assy. The directions from Marlin don't even mention removal either.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 8:28 pm

Jeep4me99 wrote:

stopped by pep boys on my way into work, picked up an extra extension and swivel. also picked up a 17 mm by mistake, guess i'll just stop back and exchange it. Checked a 19mm before leaving and it was a bit too big.

Also picked up some synthetic all-purpose grease. any suggestions on how much to pump in, i know not enough to ballon the boot.

Also, does the washer got on top of or below the steering knuckle.

I'll be tearing into this tonight and tommo. My new CV is supposed to arrive tommo along with the rear y-link extension.

Need a grease gun to pump that grease into the balljoint.

The washer goes on the bottom side of the knuckle,it sits between the castle nut and bottom of the knuckle.

BeepBeepJeepJeep · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 10:39 pm

Just be careful when you do the front bolts... I fuzzed my my passenger side front brake line by ripping the vinyl covering off :O

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 19, 2008 11:09 pm

BeepBeepJeepJeep wrote:

Just be careful when you do the front bolts... I fuzzed my my passenger side front brake line by ripping the vinyl covering off :O

The easy way to overcome that is----------There is a 10mm bolt that holds the brake line junction block(where it passes through the wheel well),it can be seen/loosened from the wheel well side,remove the bolt and now the brake line can be moved in/out a little to allow the bolt to clear the brake line.

Upper A-Arm Install....

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