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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:52 pm 
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This is true....I enjoy tearing mine apart, but not replacing parts :lol: :lol: :lol: OK I will behave myself..................... :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 12:22 pm 
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Tom I hate to break it to you but I invented those bumpstops :D
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=10186&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

I'm going to call All-Js and get their take on this whole spring compression thingy, but the the CRD frankenlift I uses the Daystar spacers which are much thicker then the Rusty's spacers and if you think they don't compress a spring even more then my set up your kidding your self. Dude

FLAME ON! :twisted:

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 1:04 pm 
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The Frankenlift 1 uses a bumpstop so where do you get it compresses it more to flatten the springs down like that ?

YOU invented bumpstops you are so funny, :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Read up on spring building and binding. Marc from ARB or anyone who builds springs will also get a kick out of your response ....DUDE! :roll: :roll: :roll:

never realized how stupid that word sounds...DUDE!!



QUOTE FROM From Marc Bowers with ARB USA
If the springs are allowed to stack it will cause extremely accelerated wear. Stacking occurs when the spring coils are allowed to compress solid onto each other. This happens when the BUMPSTOPS are insufficient or poorly located and the suspension gets under full compression and goes effectively "solid" against the coil. It doesnt have to be a violent situation to do some damage as the spring gets distorted trying to reduce the height. Once this happens its best to start looking for new coils.


need I say more? Thanks Marc! he re explained it to me back in 2007

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03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 5:32 pm 
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Ok fair enough Tom I was totally unaware of what stacking was. Still I haven’t had issues with my springs sagging but that’s not to say I won't later on, however I don't have any regrets and I have learned a lot from this forum about clevis lifts and spacers and so on, when I started out I knew nothing about lifting a Liberty and I'm still learning, but with out the info here I wouldn't have the lift I'm running.
Like superman I'm on a tight budget and simply don't have the money for a real lift and the set up I have hasn’t given me any problems and I am able to do everything a properly lifted Liberty can do, so go ahead and fault me for going the cheap route that’s cool we're all allowed our opinions, I figure it I'm just going to toss the factory parts any way when I do get a real lift so I'm really not wasting anything. The reason I don't use the Terraflex bumpstops is because they are too long for a CRD (which is a whole other can of worms) and the suspension hits the bumpstops all the time.

I also apologize for my tone due to my ignorance about how springs work it was uncalled for and unhelpful, thanks for the info :D

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2006 CRD Sport
MOPAR skid plates, RRO Rock Rails, tow hooks, JKS quck disconnects, 245/75R16LT Uniroyal Liberator A/Ts. OME790s and Rancho RSX17505 struts in the front OME948s and Rancho 17004s.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 5:39 pm 
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Universeman wrote:
Ok fair enough Tom I was totally unaware of what stacking was. Still I haven’t had issues with my springs sagging but that’s not to say I won't later on, however I don't have any regrets and I have learned a lot from this forum about clevis lifts and spacers and so on, when I started out I knew nothing about lifting a Liberty and I'm still learning, but with out the info here I wouldn't have the lift I'm running.
Like superman I'm on a tight budget and simply don't have the money for a real lift and the set up I have hasn’t given me any problems and I am able to do everything a properly lifted Liberty can do, so go ahead and fault me for going the cheap route that’s cool we're all allowed our opinions, I figure it I'm just going to toss the factory parts any way when I do get a real lift so I'm really not wasting anything. The reason I don't use the Terraflex bumpstops is because they are too long for a CRD (which is a whole other can of worms) and the suspension hits the bumpstops all the time.

I also apologize for my tone due to my ignorance about how springs work it was uncalled for and unhelpful, thanks for the info :D


No problem at all, ticked me off for about 5 seconds but was just trying to show what happens and why/ do's and don'ts . Your cheaper lift gets you where you need to go, but not everyone goes out and buys it all at once either, when I bought mine it was over two months time due to moving expenses etc. But alls well that ends well. By the way Red is a great color on a KJ

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03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 5:48 pm 
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Universeman wrote:
I put 8 1/2" washers on top of each strut (2 per stud)


Universeman,

This part scares the crap out of me. I do not know much but when i see this in my head i think OH MY GOD!!! The strut mounting plate used the entire surface of the mounting plate to distribute the load into the unibody at the location where i contacts the inner fender. The four bolts secure the WHOLE surface of that plate to the unibody and thus provide firm contact accross the surface.

Now I am no engineer but inserting ANY thing between this space and making that foot print esentially smaller and contacting ONLY on those 4 points just sounds DANGEROUS to me.

I would not walk but I would RUN to your KJ, Jack it up pull out the struts and theose washers and PRAY that the strut plates re-seat the way they were supposed to seat and then ask your KJ for forgivness. I am sorry i do not mean to wrag on you but this just does not sound safe to me. A clevis lift is one thing and does not change the weight distribution point.

I don't know why anybody else hasn't seen this as a danger or a concern yet.

Just because you are not having trouble, YET is no defense.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 5:56 pm 
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WoodysKJ wrote:
Universeman wrote:
I put 8 1/2" washers on top of each strut (2 per stud)


Universeman,

This part scares the crap out of me. I do not know much but when i see this in my head i think OH MY GOD!!! The strut mounting plate used the entire surface of the mounting plate to distribute the load into the unibody at the location where i contacts the inner fender. The four bolts secure the WHOLE surface of that plate to the unibody and thus provide firm contact accross the surface.

Now I am no engineer but inserting ANY thing between this space and making that foot print esentially smaller and contacting ONLY on those 4 points just sounds DANGEROUS to me.

I would not walk but I would RUN to your KJ, Jack it up pull out the struts and theose washers and PRAY that the strut plates re-seat the way they were supposed to seat and then ask your KJ for forgivness. I am sorry i do not mean to wrag on you but this just does not sound safe to me. A clevis lift is one thing and does not change the weight distribution point.

I don't know why anybody else hasn't seen this as a danger or a concern yet.

Just because you are not having trouble, YET is no defense.


I saw it, but was already in enough trouble with some people :lol: :lol: you know I have to walk very lightly anymore :wink: :lol: :lol:

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03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:00 pm 
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tommudd wrote:
WoodysKJ wrote:
Universeman wrote:
I put 8 1/2" washers on top of each strut (2 per stud)


Universeman,

This part scares the crap out of me. I do not know much but when i see this in my head i think OH MY GOD!!! The strut mounting plate used the entire surface of the mounting plate to distribute the load into the unibody at the location where i contacts the inner fender. The four bolts secure the WHOLE surface of that plate to the unibody and thus provide firm contact accross the surface.

Now I am no engineer but inserting ANY thing between this space and making that foot print esentially smaller and contacting ONLY on those 4 points just sounds DANGEROUS to me.

I would not walk but I would RUN to your KJ, Jack it up pull out the struts and theose washers and PRAY that the strut plates re-seat the way they were supposed to seat and then ask your KJ for forgivness. I am sorry i do not mean to wrag on you but this just does not sound safe to me. A clevis lift is one thing and does not change the weight distribution point.

I don't know why anybody else hasn't seen this as a danger or a concern yet.


Just because you are not having trouble, YET is no defense.


I saw it, but was already in enough trouble with some people :lol: :lol: you know I have to walk very lightly anymore :wink: :lol: :lol:



But am i wrong to be concerned about this. I know others have made or purchased whole plate spacesr for this but not washers?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:17 pm 
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No I would personally not want to do it , that being said I have heard of others trying it but you are right that there would be a great deal of stress placed upon the bolts themselves rather than spread out over the whole area of the top plate. even the spacers like Rustys sell is a solid plate so again the weight is spread out evenly instead of just in those 4 spots. I could under extreme cases see the bolts either breaking or tearing out of the holes. What I look at is under NORMAL driving/ wheeling conditions it may work OK, but under an emergency situation it could break. I lost a friend that way and it was a suspension part that he had welded instead of replacing it, ran it for almost 4 months, hit some ice, started to spin, it broke and and the CJ rolled over on him.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 9:26 pm 
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Ok here we go again with the photos, First notice that the strut plates are any thing but flat and the only points of contact to the frame are around the studs, I used the largest and thickest 1/2" washers available at the hardware store. As you can see the washers I used extend past the edge of the strut plate providing full coverage of the mounting surface, and most importantly there is still at least 1 1/2 threads showing past the nuts. I am totally confident about the security of this mod and it cost less then $3.

If my mod still gives you the hebbie jebbies consider the issues some people have had with Al's upper A-arms http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=19213 there is always risk when you mod an off road vehicle, you might think my idea is dumb and unsafe but to me it seems completely safe and its my jeep and my mods and I did the work my self and I have confidence in my work.

Any way here's the picts, please don't be too harsh with the flaming, respectfully theuniverseman :D

Image
Image
Image

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 10:24 pm 
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OK not too bad washers almost big enough saw one other set up that way (on another site) and they used washer no bigger than a penny looked like an accident waiting to happen :lol: :lol: :lol:
Tom

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 10:58 pm 
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I personally do not see anything wrong with the washers. It is the same basic design as putting rusty's strut plates in and like universeman said the oem strut plate doesn't sit flush. Good idea! ( people looked at the conduit nuts for the clevis the same way when i believe "science guy" first did that so you may have something there,never know) Keep us posted if you ever have any issues!





Josh

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 11:05 pm 
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when i ran a Rustys spacer lift for a few months i also used thick washers between the strut plate and the spacer. worked just fine. then again i only ran the spacer lift for about a month in a half while i was thinking of getting new springs. as long as u dont over do it it should be fine imo.
here is a pic i found that u could see the washers in mine.
Image

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Last edited by dloc_jeep_KJ on Tue Feb 26, 2008 11:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 11:14 pm 
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Thanks for the positive replies, did I mention that I got an additional 1/2" of lift for $3? :D

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 11:51 pm 
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but I do have to say and most know as well it is not the best way or a way that you want to run for a long time.

:wink: enough on this

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 12:12 am 
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note: i didnt run this long. no more than a month and a half. so i cant say how well it would hold up really. i did it to keep the tires from scrubbing when i used the spacer lift. i no longer have that lift nor do i have the washers on. it did seem fine though for the amount of time i ran it. i wasnt worried about the stock parts though since i knew i was going back to a full coil lft soon. so it worked great for me. kinda like a cheap OTT lift just not as drastic

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 8:36 am 
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Revtek kits come standard with this 'ott' spacer stuff.

Image

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