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 Post subject: ARB bumper winch question
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 2:30 am 
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Location: Angola, west Africa
I have just fitted an ARB bumper with a Warn winch. I wanted to replace the roller fairlead with an alumium hawse, but can't see a way of attaching it as the nuts that hold it will foul the inch, as it is mounted to the face of the bumper, not the base. Does the winch need to be spaced out from the bumper?

Thanks,
Cam

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 8:09 am 
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You either need to drill 2 new holes like TJKJ2002 did on his ARB. It also involves some welding and grinding to get the fairlead mounting bolts to sit flush and not interfer with the foot print of the winch.

I looked around for a long time and found Spider Trax Hawse fairlead. I just put this on my ARB and M8000 winch this weekend too.
Drops the center down enough to work. Have not tested it, YET but Don't see a reason why it should not work. There is another company making this type of fairlead also, but not sure who it is.

http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2328/.f

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 8:48 am 
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One other possibility is that if the roller fairlead that came with your winch is new and not all scared up from using a wire cable then it will be fine for use with sythetic line. There are also replacement rollers for the housing that are made of a very strong plastic of some sort that will not mess up ur synthetic line. But you will still have to drill 2 new holes in the roller fairlead housing to mount to the bottom holes of the winch mounting bolts.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 10:45 am 
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The best way to use synthetic is on rollers. The Hawse fairlead thing is a myth. No rope likes friction... especially synthetic.
Check out:
http://winchline.com/mcart/index.cgi?ID ... 16&code=13

It's what I always use. And I used to sell the rope before I came to work here...solves both your problems.

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Used to have: 02 Rene w/ SFA Swap. Sold... I'll miss her
New Baby is an 07 1500 Dodge HEMI
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 11:05 am 
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Those are the replacement rollers I was thinking of.

You can still use the steel rollers as long as they are not all scared up by wire rope and would cause snags.

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'07 Ltd 3.7L, Black, OME HD's, OME shocks, Mopar Skids, AEV Bridgers w/ TPMS, Kumho KL78's, ARB Bumper, KC 130 Watters, Warn M8000 Winch, Rock Lizard Gecko Roof Basket KC 150 watters, Cobra 75WSX, 3 ft FireFly, RL Super Step Skinks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 12:10 pm 
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Thanks for the replies. The winch, bumper and rollers are all new, so I guess I'll just use it with the roller fairlead. Thought I was just being stupid and missing something obvious :?

Cheers,
Cam

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 6:53 pm 
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ARBSeth wrote:
The best way to use synthetic is on rollers. The Hawse fairlead thing is a myth. No rope likes friction... especially synthetic.
Check out:
http://winchline.com/mcart/index.cgi?ID ... 16&code=13

It's what I always use. And I used to sell the rope before I came to work here...solves both your problems.


So Seth,

What are the locations for the roller fairlead NEW holes on my warn winch fairlead?

I don't do metric. It's about a 1/2 inch hole, about 1 inch below the Center or bottom of the existing hole?

Can you post some mnore info on how to mmake this work on our ARB's?

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'07 Ltd 3.7L, Black, OME HD's, OME shocks, Mopar Skids, AEV Bridgers w/ TPMS, Kumho KL78's, ARB Bumper, KC 130 Watters, Warn M8000 Winch, Rock Lizard Gecko Roof Basket KC 150 watters, Cobra 75WSX, 3 ft FireFly, RL Super Step Skinks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 8:08 pm 
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ARBSeth wrote:
The best way to use synthetic is on rollers. The Hawse fairlead thing is a myth. No rope likes friction... especially synthetic.
Check out:
http://winchline.com/mcart/index.cgi?ID ... 16&code=13

It's what I always use. And I used to sell the rope before I came to work here...solves both your problems.



OMG hes still alive!!!! :shock: :shock: :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 2:41 am 
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WoodysKJ,

Fitting the roller fairlead to the ARB is straight forward. As you stated drill new 1/2" holes 1" centre to center, below the existing lower holes. The lower winch mounting bolts then go through these holes into the winch and secure the winch and failead to the bumper.

Cheers,
Cam

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 5:38 pm 
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Okay,

Per ARBSeth's recomendation, I have installed my warn roller fairlead instead of the hawse off set from spidertrax.

Rollers are brand new and i do plan to upgrade to the delrin rollers sometime soon.

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'07 Ltd 3.7L, Black, OME HD's, OME shocks, Mopar Skids, AEV Bridgers w/ TPMS, Kumho KL78's, ARB Bumper, KC 130 Watters, Warn M8000 Winch, Rock Lizard Gecko Roof Basket KC 150 watters, Cobra 75WSX, 3 ft FireFly, RL Super Step Skinks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 6:08 pm 
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Interesting: those rollers are 68% lighter than normal ones. Sounds like they'd weigh in about the same as a Hawse, anyhow.


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 Post subject: Special hawse fairlead needed
PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 5:37 pm 
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For the feet first orientation they have special hawse fairleads the will fit with no extra drilling.

http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31457

http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2328/.f


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 Post subject: Re: Special hawse fairlead needed
PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 7:32 am 
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LimitedLurker wrote:
For the feet first orientation they have special hawse fairleads the will fit with no extra drilling.

http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31457

http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2328/.f


That is the fairlead I started with. I know it would work great. But since my roller fairlead from WARN was new and not all scarred up I desided to use it. Not too concernerd with the extra 10 or so lbs, but ARBSeth knows a hell of a lot more about this stuff that I will ever know and I see the logic in his post. Good rollers = Less friction = happier winch and line.

As thew rollers show some weather and/or use issues I will exchange them for the delrin rollers.

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'07 Ltd 3.7L, Black, OME HD's, OME shocks, Mopar Skids, AEV Bridgers w/ TPMS, Kumho KL78's, ARB Bumper, KC 130 Watters, Warn M8000 Winch, Rock Lizard Gecko Roof Basket KC 150 watters, Cobra 75WSX, 3 ft FireFly, RL Super Step Skinks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 12:33 am 
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The problem with a bad roller is that it will pinch the line and that causes big time friction. Another thing you'll see with comp rigs is the Hawse fairlead... this is more about weight savings than friction... pick up your rollers and they're heavy, man. Synthetic ones are the best way to go for weight and rope wear concerns.

The stock Warn ones work OK, but at some point you should spend the $75 and swap the out to the softer version.
My .02, anyway.

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ARB USA
Used to have: 02 Rene w/ SFA Swap. Sold... I'll miss her
New Baby is an 07 1500 Dodge HEMI
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 1:17 am 
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ARBSeth wrote:
The best way to use synthetic is on rollers. The Hawse fairlead thing is a myth. No rope likes friction... especially synthetic.
Check out:
http://winchline.com/mcart/index.cgi?ID ... 16&code=13

It's what I always use. And I used to sell the rope before I came to work here...solves both your problems.


ok my Warn 8000 winch came with a hause not a roller. So since you are saying its not good because of the friction, do I need to buy a Warn roller and then buy the Viking replacement rollers for the best application???

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 11:21 am 
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Hawse fairleads work fine, they just put a little more friction on the rope than the rope would like. It will last longer if you switch.

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Seth Green
Western Sales Manager
ARB USA
Used to have: 02 Rene w/ SFA Swap. Sold... I'll miss her
New Baby is an 07 1500 Dodge HEMI
6" Lift and lots O Go Fast parts


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