so here are some pics, and then the explanation.

**********EDIT******* - sorry guys, some of these pictures show up "upside down" so just note that if you wonder why yours is different


so go around and loosen all the bolts around the pan.


now, i jacked the front up to try and help with the drain...so I have fully removed the 4 bolts in the lowest corner.


now, you just loosen the remaining bolts in a pattern that will allow the corner of the pan(4 removed bolts) to drop some, but not com all the way off. this lets you put the drain catch under that corner, and that should be the only place the fluid comes out. its messy, so lay down lots of cardboard.
My pan was a bit stubborn and needed me to bump it with the butt end of a hammer...but just lightly again, this is aluminum so dont try to pry it off with a screw driver or something that would scratch or dent the alumnium. if you just tap the sides a bit it should shake loose and break the seal.

now that the fluid has draned out, fully removed the pan and set it aside.

now onto the filters....mine is the 45rfe so I have 2 filters. one of them removes just like a regular oil filter...the other needed a T25 torx head.





now here is what you should get when you buy the filters


just install the way you took them off.

...ok, so now you have to clean the old gasket and rtv off the pan lip and the lip that the pan attached to. i used a plastic bondo scraper..just be VERY creful, most of this is aluminum and if you scratch or dent it, its bad news.




my pan had a magnet in it, if yours does...be sure to clean all the goop off it.


now that your pan is totally clean (i even sprayed some brake cleaner in mine and wiped it out...most important is that the lip is clean of the old crap so you get a perfect seal.

now put a little bit of the RTV ( i used black) just around where the holes are...this is mainly just to keep the gasket lined up properly


now, gently and perfectly place the gasket on the pan


line up the pan PERFECTLY and put a few bolts in to hold it in place.



now, tighten all the bolts back on....do not HE-MAN these back in, they are going into aluminum, so just tight enough...i would refer to the factory torque settings if I were you (though I did not, I was VERY concious as to what i felt was just tight enough.)



now , just fill it back up - you have to place a funnel into the transmission dip stick and pour it in that way..again, mine was the 45rfe and needed 5 qts of ATF+4


if anyone sees something i forgot to write up, please chime in.

this didnt take long and is something you should do and save the $200 your dealer wants to do it....parts and fluid was around $40

enjoy

Great write-up, thanks! It helps a lot to have pics, to know what to expect ahead of time.

Does anyone know if there's a pan gasket available for the 42RLE? I asked at the dealership and they told me that it just uses RTV.

Note above pics show the 45RFE. 42RLE only has the one filter, not the canister one.
The filter kit I got for my 42rle had a pan gasket and it does help make the job easier and cleaner. I only used a light coating of RTV on both sides of the gasket as I have always had the best luck that way.

For reference: Filter kits w/ gaskets
02 - Early 03, 3.7L Auto - ATP brand P/N B-196 4wd, B-197 2wd

03 & Newer, 3.7L Auto - ATP P/N B-216
Note: Some early 03's had the 45RFE trans.

CRD KJ's, ATP B-196

_________________
99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

Thanks, JJ! I'm trying to track that part number down now. NAPA won't let me have a 42RLE transmission in my KJ, though! Bugger got grumpy with me when I told him it wasn't a 45RFE. So I'm going to find a gasket for it someplace. Just seems like a better idea than only using RTV.

Nice write-up and pic's.

_________________
05 BLACK KJ - 42RLE & NP242
Skids, Hooks, Bent Rock Rail, Lifted, A/T's, etc.
NY and PA and Florida ONF Special Custom Organic Trail Rash

Nice write-up! I am going to have to do mine this summer and this will come in handy.

Also: I second the pump for the rear diff.

_________________
2006 Limited 3.7L
OME Everything
245/75R16 Toyo ATs on Ultra type 51s
Mopar skids, Flowmaster 50 delta

Well, I got ahold of the ATP filter and gasket, finally, and it should be here next week.

Interesting that ALL of the auto parts dealers I phoned had no listing for the 42RLE in any KJ. They checked up to 2007, and they all read 45RFE. Oh, well, just makes the maintenance of the vehicle more interesting.

how much do the filters run for the 45RFE?

_________________
1980 Jeep CJ7 Buggy
SOA, D44/ FF14B, SBC 350, SM465, NP205, 108" WB, 37" MTs

http://www.dpgoffroad.com/
http://www.ucora.org/
http://www.christianoffroad.com/
http://jeepinbyal.com/

i wanna say it was around $25 for both....i dont have my receipt with me but it wasnt bad. my local advanced autoparts had it.

so, next is the Rear differential...anybody got a good write up?

and not to jack my own thread...but my frankenlift is being purchased as soon as the govt. gives me that $600!!!

so, any links to good detailed writeups would be cool....ive never done suspension work.

peace

There are some excisting writeups on how to do both but if you need more help just ask on here or PM me. I have only done 4 KJ lifts but sort of know what I am doing

Tom

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Are you guys tired of stripping out the transfer case plugs, I used two NAPA part number #704-1048 plugs. They come with 3/4 bolt ends. They fit both the fill plug and drain plug holes. They come with gaskets and work great.

Al

_________________
One Ruby, One Grand Cherokee, One YJ, One disassembled CJ, one Chevy Mason dump, one hotrod IH Pick-up, couple of antique tractors.
Former owner of a 5.5 inch lifted KJ

Anyone know the difference between Fram FT1223 and Fram 1223A? It looks as simple as the "A" version comes with a gasket and the other doesn't. And is there a difference in filter depths or other variables between the 4x2 and 4x4 models with the 45RFE transmission?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframe ... 915-FT1223

I'm trying to get the best quality kit I can for my KJ. Someone recommended ATP brand. I've also seen kits from Wix, Pioneer, AZ, and the above Fram thing. Is there a subtle difference between these brands like there is for say, engine oil filters, or is the difference major, like different tires?

_________________
"It's not what you drive, but how you drive it."

02 Sport in Stone White
-AEM CAI, Borla XS muffler
-Duralast Premium rotors and PFC pads in front (rotors are cool but the pads suck); Satisfied pads in back drums
-6k HID mains, Hella 500 high beams
-Yokohama Geolandar HTS 235/70 R16
-smoke corners with silver turn signal bulbs

I used Mobil 1 lube in my rear diff with a trac-lok limited slip. I bought the Mopar friction modifier but did not initially use it because Mobil 1 says you "may not need it". Initially the truck drove fine. Eventually I got some "chatter" when turning and accelerating at the same time. I also had a couple occurrences of the back unexpectedly kicking out mid-turn a couple of times in the rain. I don't think it happened immediately after the lube change because the clutches were already "impregnated" with the original lube with the modifier. After a few days is when it started showing up, presumably after the new lube had some time to get worked into the clutches.

So I added about 1/3 dose of the Mopar friction modifier and after a few drives she was back to driving like normal.

The trick is to use as little friction modifier as possible. Friction modifier makes the lube more slippery. Too little friction modifier causes your LSD to lock up too tight (chattering in turns, locking in turns). Too much friction modifier effectively turns your LSD into an open diff.

So if you use one of the synthetics that says you don't need friction modifier, try that first. Dumping in a full dose of friction modifier right off the bat may make to lube too slippery making your LSD ineffective. If after a few days you get any of the symptoms of needing more friction modifier, add a partial dose (not a full dose). Then give it a few days of driving to really get worked into the clutches before you decide if you need more.

The OP mentions that he used 5qts of transmission fluid.

I did my tranny oil change recently and drained about 7-7.5qts of fluid. So I replaced it with that much since 5qts wasnt even showing at the bottom of the dipstick.

Funny thing is, theres a sticker on the side of the tranny that says "45RF". What's with the missing "E"?

_________________
"It's not what you drive, but how you drive it."

02 Sport in Stone White
-AEM CAI, Borla XS muffler
-Duralast Premium rotors and PFC pads in front (rotors are cool but the pads suck); Satisfied pads in back drums
-6k HID mains, Hella 500 high beams
-Yokohama Geolandar HTS 235/70 R16
-smoke corners with silver turn signal bulbs

I usually also get 5-7 qts out during a change (42RLE). I do let it drain for quite a while (sometimes several hours) after removing the filter though.

_________________
99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

Just curious, is there a recommended lube for open (front & rear) diff's? I thought I read somewhere that only synthetic lube should be used in the front diff? Is that correct?

I plan to do my t-case and both diff's later this week.

Btw, this was a well done write-up.

_________________
Illegitima Non carborundom!

I run Amsoil Severe Gear synthetic in both diffs. 75w90 front 75w110 rear. Both diffs are still open, still trying to decide if I am going TruTrac or Detroit Locker for the rear. TruTrac will be going in the front. Even if I were locked I woud still run with the Amsoil synthetic.

Now if I can get a decent price on 2 ARB Air Lockers...

_________________
2006 KJ Sport, Dark Khaki, 3.7 Litre
NSG370 6 Speed Manual Transmission | NP241J Command Trac HD Part Time 4wd | 3.55s | 245/70R16 Firestone Destination A/Ts | Mopar Tow Hooks & Skids | Powerslot Brake Rotors | ARB Rear Differential Cover

Cool. Thanks. I've always thought their products were second to none.

_________________
Illegitima Non carborundom!

You are welcome CrossBones. PM JJsKJ if you are looking for a distributor, he can set you up.

_________________
2006 KJ Sport, Dark Khaki, 3.7 Litre
NSG370 6 Speed Manual Transmission | NP241J Command Trac HD Part Time 4wd | 3.55s | 245/70R16 Firestone Destination A/Ts | Mopar Tow Hooks & Skids | Powerslot Brake Rotors | ARB Rear Differential Cover