JBA 6" on sale now!

Sport · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2008 2:50 pm

jerbacher wrote:

Sport wrote:

IMO, the front diff is a seperate issue. We are talking about the 6" lift here that Jeepin AL is specializing in. The issue is whether or not the lift works.

Things like Tie rods, longevity of the knuckle exten, front axles angles, the cradle drop, longer driveshaft along with longer rear arms.

Me personally I want the 4" kit, don't have 2grand though :cry:

I agree with you partially. This is not an issue that JBA necessarily needs to worry about. And it maybe shouldnt really be a concern for them, and shouldnt be a critique of their lift. And I'm not critiquing the 6" lift when I ask about the diff. It is indeed a separate issue. But, it is an issue that needs to be discussed for anyone buying the lift because its a problem that they could possibly run into.

Without a doubt the front diff is the weakest link with the KJ. And really the only thing that has me second guessing pouring more money into it.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2008 3:35 pm

Sport wrote:

Me personally I want the 4" kit, don't have 2grand though :cry:

The Frankenlift will give you 4” of lift for cheaper, and a better ride!

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:15 pm

BeepBeepJeepJeep wrote:

jerbacher wrote:

I have some basic questions about this lift. I'm pretty green too, so forgive me if my questions are mechanically stupid :oops:

1. would your tie rods hate you forever with this lift?
2. is a new driveshaft needed?
3. can if fit 33s?
4. if q3 is answered "yes", does it come with a lifetime supply of replacement d30a's?

Swmpthg has been running 33s for quite some time now... I don't think he's had any issues

didn't see pictures of his last outing I guess

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:22 pm

I find it hard to even think that people are even thinking of running 33 and no mention of gear changes. With 4.10s even 33s are almost out of the limit.
I am just going to sit back and watch everything that happens and pick up a bunch of cheap parts when everyone deceides to go a different direction

Yes it will put more stress on the tie rod ends, larger tires and a 3 or 3.5 inch does that.
Rear Driveshaft, to be safe I would think that it would need to be made a little longer, it may last a while but sooner or later it may pull out on the right trail.
From what I have seen and read 32s are about it with the 4 inch, which you can do with a Frankenlift or variations there of.

KW AV8R · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:16 pm

I sent out an email to JBA about most of the same concerns you all have. I'll share with you:

KW AV8R wrote:

I see on your site that no other parts are needed. Does this mean that I would not have to get a new driveshaft and SYE? My wheeling is in the Rockies and quite often achieve maximum articulation and I would hate for the driveshaft to come apart in the middle of a trail. Also, on the test vehicles, how is the drivability with only using 4:10 gears? Is there sufficient power? Does the KJ hold its speed on the highway? I know there is no fix for the front diff as of yet but are there any other concerns I should know about?

JBA wrote:

The stock drive shaft is good.

On my KJ I have 4:11 w/ 33 tires, I am running about 3 miles / hour fast. 32 would be about perfect.

I run 65-70 mph to the mountains, no problem, this is my daily driver.

Slide show on the trails.
http://community.webshots.com/slideshow/563215779fwzycW

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:30 pm

Quote:

On my KJ I have 4:11 w/ 33 tires

I'd like to know where he got 4.11's for the D30A and the 8.25.

I'm running 4.10's with 31.9" tires and I'm sucking wind here at 6000' and driving through the mountains,really need 4.56's to run 32" tires with the 3.7 V-6 and have any sense of factory power band,4.10's just don't cover it hence why I getting ride of the D30A and 8.25 all together and put axles in that I can actually re-gear to what I really need,5.13's should be a good match for my soon to be 35" tires and the 3.7 V-6 torque curve.

Joe Jeeper · **Posted:** Mon Apr 28, 2008 10:15 pm

You can fit 33's but you should have at least a 4:10 rear if ya want to wheel it. Jeepin' Al had 33's and so far it's the same front diff, he has a detroit true trac and 4:10s. My tie rods have held up 2 years with the 4" only have the 6" five days.

KW AV8R · **Posted:** Tue Apr 29, 2008 5:53 am

Joe Jeeper wrote:

...Jeepin' Al had 33's and so far it's the same front diff...

But didn't he also fabricate some additional bracing for his?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:03 am

KW AV8R wrote:

Joe Jeeper wrote:

...Jeepin' Al had 33's and so far it's the same front diff...

But didn't he also fabricate some additional bracing for his?

He sure did,he welded(yes welded) extra aluminum on his from diff.

Joe Jeeper · **Posted:** Tue Apr 29, 2008 10:02 am

Didn't know about that, I'll have to look at it again when I'm down there. All I have is that steel re-enforcement ring.

deviousz · **Posted:** Sat Feb 21, 2009 5:37 am

I'm considering this 6" lift since I currently have the 2.5 (CRD) Frankenlift on my CRD running 245/75R16 MT/R's which has definitely sagged after 1.5 yrs, causing mucho rubbing even w/ trimmed fender plastic. I've never heard of a 4" Frankenlift, and have no clue how some are fitting 265's w/ it, when I'm having trouble w/ 245's.

I want to go bigger, and feel that if I do it, why go up to 4" and wish I did the 6". If I go 6" I would love to run 285/75R16 (32.

tires, but now I'm hearing thats a big risk. Is there something which can be done to make the stock IFS a tad tougher?

tia

ramlebliberty · **Posted:** Sat Feb 21, 2009 8:11 am

if your on the east coast 6k can get you this

33's

bring on the 35's! :twisted:

deviousz · **Posted:** Mon Feb 23, 2009 4:12 am

SFA swap for $6k - Kinda wish I were on the east coast.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Mon Feb 23, 2009 11:06 am

deviousz wrote:

SFA swap for $6k - Kinda wish I were on the east coast.

By watching the SFA section of this forum, the parts alone should cost at least $4,000. If the entire kit cost $6,000, including all parts and labor, then I would question the integrity of that kit. Meaning, I haven’t seen anyone walk into that shop and write a check for $6,000 and walk out with the same KJ as seen in the picture above.

ramlebliberty · **Posted:** Mon Feb 23, 2009 12:50 pm

dieselenthusiast wrote:

deviousz wrote:

SFA swap for $6k - Kinda wish I were on the east coast.

By watching the SFA section of this forum, the parts alone should cost at least $4,000. If the entire kit cost $6,000, including all parts and labor, then I would question the integrity of that kit. Meaning, I haven’t seen anyone walk into that shop and write a check for $6,000 and walk out with the same KJ as seen in the picture above.

Well if you read petersens 4 wheel & off road (which many of us probally do) you'll see cape fear 4x4's (danny) work all over it. He built the axles for the ua-z71, and the supercross f-250 was built at his shop. He just finished a mid 90"s chevy with 49's and a ford econoline van on 44's all of which can flex. His personal daily driver is a grand cherokee on 44's, which has also been in petersens. The work is top notch and yes hand him a check and you'll leave with a 8" sfa conversion on your libby. Minus wheels and tires of course. If i had the money, my kj would be in his shop right now.

JBA 6" on sale now!

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