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 Post subject: Hi lift jack placement
PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 8:48 am 
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I'm getting a hi lift jack and was wondering where the best points on the Kj are to lift it?

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 8:58 am 
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sliders or steel bumpers, unless you have one of those special hooks for lifting by a wheel.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 8:59 am 
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Boulderbars.

I don't think there are any HiLift points stock, you need either bars or bumpers with lift points.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 9:48 am 
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So would not be a good investment until I get bumpers and Sliders?

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 10:06 am 
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icefisher45 wrote:
So would not be a good investment until I get bumpers and Sliders?

Agree. Unless you are going to use it as a winch or clamp or all those other wonderful things they Can be used for. A bottle jack can be your friend in situations where the hi-lift could be dangerous anyway.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 10:25 am 
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icefisher45 wrote:
So would not be a good investment until I get bumpers and Sliders?


they sell an attachment the will lift the vehicle from the tire. it's not expensive either and makes it safer using the hi-lift.

http://www.hi-lift.com/accessories/lift-mate.html

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 10:49 am 
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I carry a 12 ton bottle jack as well as a 8,000# come-a-long as they can come in very handy. The Libby has a long way (money money money) to go before a high lift would be effective.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 11:45 am 
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8,000lbs coma-long?! Weve got a 2 ton coma-long and I couldnt imagine how heavy a 4 ton would be. :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 2:39 am 
Jeep4me99 wrote:
icefisher45 wrote:
So would not be a good investment until I get bumpers and Sliders?


they sell an attachment the will lift the vehicle from the tire. it's not expensive either and makes it safer using the hi-lift.

http://www.hi-lift.com/accessories/lift-mate.html


This accessory is a great idea. I made my own using chain that is similar to Hi-Lifts because i could not find one in my area. It allows lifted vehicles an easier way to lift the vehicle. I think this is better than lifting from the sliders. When you lift from the sliders you have to lift the vehicle off of the suspension which means you have to jack it way up. When you lift from the tire the suspension is bypassed.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 3:58 am 
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I had the occasion to try one of those things out last Sunday (I wasn't stuck but was chatting to a guy that had one and he let me try it out). It worked pretty well and I will have to add that to my recovery bag.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:17 am 
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i have used it with the hitches both front and rear. works pretty good for certain things and well, not so great for other things. if you do have a hitch (or hitches), i would suggest that you get the bigger platform for the hi-lift jack. its makes it alot more stable.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 2:14 pm 
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I had an old 1" thick pine table top that was about 18" in diameter kicking around the garage and I just drilled a couple of bolt holes to match the jack's base. Then I put a couple of carriage bolts through with wing nuts on. I don't know how long it would last in wet climates, but it works great in sand. Just another idea to throw out there.

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 Post subject: Hi-Lift Adaptor
PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:22 pm 
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Without rock rails you just need to make this dookicky:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/683398/7


Both tires are off the ground...
Image


Image

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 2:31 pm 
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That looks awesome! Is the hole in the "frame rail" already there? Wanna make me one? My welding stuff is out of state.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 2:49 pm 
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The holes are already there. Sorry, no tengo a welder. Plus I haven't welded since 1984 in Shop class. It would be funny to watch me try now. :D I had a buddy fab it up for me...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 3:11 pm 
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Thanks anyway!

I was thinking I could use a couple of big fender washers and grind them to just fit inside the tubing. Then trim a piece of 2X down to the same size so it just fits inside), drill a hole through the center lengthwise and use long carriage bolt threaded through the washers, then tighten a nut down on the outside just inside the end of the tubing (so that it won't impede the bolt from going into the rail) and leave an 1 1/2" to insert. I am theorizing that if I torque the nut down really good the wood will slightly crush (thereby expanding) and hold the whole thing in place inside the tubing. Better yet would be to replace the wood with a block of hard rubber, but I don't know where I could find that on the cheap.

Thoughts?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 4:31 pm 
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You kinda lost me. What is the intent of what you are describing?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 5:09 pm 
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That does look awesume, I will have to try it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 6:43 pm 
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phxtoad wrote:
You kinda lost me. What is the intent of what you are describing?


I am trying to figure out a way to secure the bolt in the end of the tubing and keep it centered without welding it into place and then welding an end cap around it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 1:31 am 
I don't see why you would want to do this
Image

when you can do this
Image


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