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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 7:29 pm 
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So who's put 4-10's in their Libby and were they 4-10's or an old cj style ring and pinion set up? West Coast Diffs is telling me nobody makes them but that they can match a older style cj R/P to correct everything. Although they say that 3-73's are close and not a bad thing, just that the speedometer would be more accurate and make her a little quicker off the line. But the K&N intake i have on her already makes it really quick. The 4-10's arent gonna give her any better wheeling capabilities.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 7:34 pm 
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gone_jeepin wrote:
bugnout wrote:
If you have select trak transfer case with full time 4wd and want to be able to use it, then the ARB is the only way to go.

ARB's run about $750 each, plus you need a compressor about $250, Labor to install both is about $800.

Total about $2150.

Might as well upgrade to 4:10's and new alloy axles while your in there for an even $3000


Does the select trak transfer case rule out DTT lockers or just the Aussie?


for what? the DTT can go in the front and the Aussie whenever it comes out can only go in the rear.

Bugnout is saying that if you have the select trac trtansfer case which has 4x4 full time and want to be able to use the full time with a locker in it you need the ARB

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 7:40 pm 
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jsc7002 wrote:
gone_jeepin wrote:
bugnout wrote:
If you have select trak transfer case with full time 4wd and want to be able to use it, then the ARB is the only way to go.

ARB's run about $750 each, plus you need a compressor about $250, Labor to install both is about $800.

Total about $2150.

Might as well upgrade to 4:10's and new alloy axles while your in there for an even $3000


Does the select trak transfer case rule out DTT lockers or just the Aussie?


for what? the DTT can go in the front and the Aussie whenever it comes out can only go in the rear.

Bugnout is saying that if you have the select trac trtansfer case which has 4x4 full time and want to be able to use the full time with a locker in it you need the ARB


I have to have ARB front and back to use full time?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 7:44 pm 
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not in the back, but I would think that the DTT would still work in the front but I dont know I would ask Troy or Tom

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 7:50 pm 
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maybe one of them will chime in

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:01 pm 
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ken wrote:
The 4-10's arent gonna give her any better wheeling capabilities.


If you ever want to add larger tires, a front bumper, a rear bumper, and a winch, then the 4:10's will give you the better gearing to turn those bigger tires and allow your KJ to perform better with the additional weight. I'm going to add 4:10's just for towing and for going up in tire size.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:11 pm 
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It's another $600 or so for the added r/p's.( Even though I have all the weight you outlined i.e tires bumpers winch etc. and I also tow around a 3200Lb. glasspar boat without any problems.) it surely won't hurt so with all your guys' input I will go ahead with new gearing as well.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:24 pm 
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ken wrote:
It's another $600 or so for the added r/p's.( Even though I have all the weight you outlined i.e tires bumpers winch etc. and I also tow around a 3200Lb. glasspar boat without any problems.) it surely won't hurt so with all your guys' input I will go ahead with new gearing as well.


With everything you said above, then "YES," I would go with 4:10's. Plus you'll gain some mpg back which will pay for the gears eventually.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:29 pm 
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ken wrote:
So who's put 4-10's in their Libby and were they 4-10's or an old cj style ring and pinion set up? West Coast Diffs is telling me nobody makes them but that they can match a older style cj R/P to correct everything. Although they say that 3-73's are close and not a bad thing, just that the speedometer would be more accurate and make her a little quicker off the line. But the K&N intake i have on her already makes it really quick. The 4-10's arent gonna give her any better wheeling capabilities.


:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: WHAT no one makes them, are you sure now that you want them working on it, they have no idea do they, how do they think 4.10s got into 4 cylinder Libertys, how are a lot of us getting 4.10 gears???

for the front 4.10s ask for a D30A or FIA 186 mm Dana/Spicer and Precision both make the gears

and why wouldn't you have better wheeling abilities with lower gears?

OK now I am confused :shock: :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Also from what I found in the past as you uograde a vehicle to larger tires etc you get used to the way it runs, but when you go to lower gears , look out it's like you just got 50 horse power back somehow in a few hours :wink:

Tom

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:38 pm 
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ken wrote:
So who's put 4-10's in their Libby and were they 4-10's or an old cj style ring and pinion set up? West Coast Diffs is telling me nobody makes them but that they can match a older style cj R/P to correct everything. Although they say that 3-73's are close and not a bad thing, just that the speedometer would be more accurate and make her a little quicker off the line. But the K&N intake i have on her already makes it really quick. The 4-10's arent gonna give her any better wheeling capabilities.
Dana/Spicer(OEM) makes 4.10's for the D30A front KJ diff(also known as the FIA186mm),Precision gears makes them also.Any gears for a D30 will not work in our D30A's since the D30A has a longer pinion shaft then all the other D30 gear set,you can't do close for fitting gears in a diff.I have swapped to 4.10's and it makes a world of difference when lifted and have bigger tires.When you increase your tire size you are in effect raising your final drive ratio from stoc,lowering the diff gears will bring you back into the factory final drive ratio helping save components and gain power/mpg's back.

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Does the select trak transfer case rule out DTT lockers or just the Aussie?

As far as using full time you will not want the Detriot TT up front,you can but it will be a bear to drive on dry pavement and can damage your front diff if driven on dry surfaces.That would leave the ARB as the only option and still be able to use full time option on dry surfaces.It does not matter for the rear axle since it does not steer your KJ.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 11:29 pm 
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All they do is diff's so maybe this was a newbie there when I called them. I'm supposed to call and talk to Jimmy the main dude on Monday I think I believe you guys cuz your running them.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 7:12 am 
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gone_jeepin wrote:
bugnout wrote:
If you have select trak transfer case with full time 4wd and want to be able to use it, then the ARB is the only way to go.

ARB's run about $750 each, plus you need a compressor about $250, Labor to install both is about $800.

Total about $2150.

Might as well upgrade to 4:10's and new alloy axles while your in there for an even $3000


Does the select trak transfer case rule out DTT lockers or just the Aussie?



neither
If you have the full time mode then when the front is going the same speed as the rear the front is not getting power
like it would on dry pavement
if the front is not getting power then the locker is not doing any thing
In theory you could put a Detroit locker and not notice it
You will be fine with a True Track up front with Select track
also you will be fine with a Detroit Locker out back


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:24 pm 
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any considerations for which locker works well in snow and ice? I'm thinking an arb for the rear might be best so that I can turn it off for certain conditions ( off-camber starts on ice for example). I'm thinking a locker that engages whenever it receives power might get a bit wild on icey backroads... do i have the right idea here?

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:27 pm 
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Im thinking Im probably gonna get the DTT for the rear on mine just b/c I want something that is good and I just dont hear enough good reviews about powertrax and the DTT is cheaper than the DL

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:36 pm 
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itsajeepthing

snow and ice and Detroit Locker

well I had one in my old Bronco and it could get crossed up pretty easy at times, would have to lock in the front to take off sometimes, thats how I ended up flipping it on its top in the middle of the road :oops: :oops:
picture a stop sign , middle of no where, just as you get through the sign always water standing there, I could hit that water punch it and when it locked up burn the rear tires about 15/20 foot :lol: :lol: 8)
Coming home one night from the bar, stop , then hit it hard, maybe too hard, whoops :shock: water is now ice , locker locks like it suppose to and bam when I hit dry road she took off, flipped up on its top and busted 5 out of 6 beers in the back :cry:
Got it rolled back over and drove back on home though :lol: :lol:

So yes have to watch them mine wasn't a TT it was the Locker so it was locked all the time basically, not sure how the TT would do on ice

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:49 pm 
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:lol: :lol: :lol: hilarious! that totally reminded me of my teenage yrs. bikes, snowmobiles, and off-roading my dodge omni 8) certainly took my fair share of spills and wrecks.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 6:38 pm 
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Anything but the ARB will act up on the ice if you don't be careful. Don't drive like Tom used to. :lol:

The deciding factor for me when I bought the Powertrax was when i met a guy running 37s on his blazer and he has been running a Powertrax in the rear for years here in Reno, where it snows a fair amount every winter. I figured if he didn't blow the locker up, or roll his blazer or have any issues at all, then I would be fine with my 31s.

Works awesome so far too. I live about a minute and a half from a dirt bike track these guys made on some BLM land behind my house and I went over there and tested it and it performed perfectly. They say 50 miles and it is broken in too and works better after that. We'll see how it goes. The install was so friggin easy too. Easier than I expected by a long shot.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:57 pm 
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jsc7002 wrote:
Im thinking Im probably gonna get the DTT for the rear on mine just b/c I want something that is good and I just dont hear enough good reviews about powertrax and the DTT is cheaper than the DL



The reason it is cheeper than a Detroit Locker is because it does not work the same
a TT WILL NOT LOCK UP 100%
to me on an IFS rig ,off road, you need a locker

As to the power trax ,I had one no I had 2 and broke 2
now I know guys running them in bigger rigs with no problems
I also know that I am not alone but I was lucky enough not to have damaged any thing when the broke
Guy with a TJ unlimited had the same breakage on his first just like my first but on his second it cost him not just the locker but also a ring and pinion and a driver side shaft and a tow home
now yeah you can save about $100 and install it you self and risk it or you can do it right put in an off road legend and be done with it


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 2:25 am 
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Got to test out the Powertrax for real today. Worked like a champ. Did a 20 mile trail run today and I ran it in 2wd pretty much the entire way without any issues and it worked just like a locker should.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 10:22 am 
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incubusmike wrote:
Got to test out the Powertrax for real today. Worked like a champ. Did a 20 mile trail run today and I ran it in 2wd pretty much the entire way without any issues and it worked just like a locker should.


It's amazing what a locker will do..............................They are worth the additional cost. Are you running 4:10's or 3:73's?

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Last edited by dieselenthusiast on Sun Sep 28, 2008 12:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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