man do I have to tell you everything
if it helps any center of bolt to center of bolt is about 17 1/8 to 17 1/4 forget for sure but right in there, your measurements was that total lenghth or ??

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

I was going to look at mine while I was under there tomorrow installing my rear locker.

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My Jeep Build ----> Big Black

you can check for sure tomorrow, I think thats what I remember, but you know I maybe off a foot or so

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

I'l be sure to let you know one way or another.

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My Jeep Build ----> Big Black

That would be great. Then I can order up a set.

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02 KJ

As Tom said, changing the lower control arms is no benefit with out doing something to the tri-link.

I have just had to replace the tri-link because the amount of flex that I have, which is considerable seeing as my rear shocks are about 2inch longer than the OME long travel shocks, I tore the ball joint out of the tri-link, it was the pressfit that had been getting over stressed and the entire ball joint came out of the tri-link.

Longer tri-link arms "would" help, but, you would still have to adress the angle of the joint at its new lowered running position. With my KJ I'm running a good 4 inch lift so the normal running for my rear tri-link is angled down 4 inches, not nice at flat as it is in an unlifted KJ. That means when I do flex, I'm starting from a halfway there point, and then the ball joint runs out of travel real fast.

With the bigger lifts and more flex we are all putting in, we need to seriously adress all the other components in the lift, not just shocks and coils and bumpstops. Al's addresses the problems with the front upper ball joints with the new gen upper A- arms to correct the angle, but, there is no actual such thing for the rear, as whats true in the front will also be true in the rear, and if you have to correct ball joinnt operating angles in the front, it only makes sense that we should also do it in the rear. I think Al's 6in lift had a relocation bracket for the tri-link ball joint to correct the angle and allow it to flex, I'm thinking we all need something of this kind. I have spoken with a guy here downunder and he said it would be easy enough to engineer a new tri-link that would allow for lift and let the ball joint operate correctly. It's not just a matter of longer arms on the tri-link, the tri-link in an unlifted Kj is usually almost flat, parallel to the ground, what is needed is a tri-link that has its body mounts at an angle to the arms, then, the ball joint mount angled back so as the joint is flat, but sitting 4 inches lower. (If that makes sense)


Anyway, my point is, BIG FLEX in the rear, watch out for the ball joint that connects your diff to the tri-link.


cmohr


"openning cans of worms since 1982"

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SOME SAY

I'm Toight... Toight lik a Toiger.

And

When I go to the Toilet, Chuck Norris is there to tear the squares off for me.

"Pass me another one Chuck, and keep em coming!! On sencond thoughts..Go get the hose"

comhr, know exactly what you are talking about, I have laid under mine and have in my head what would need to be done, but explaining to someone else what I want them to build is another matter
Can't wait to see what you are going to come up with. I am thinking of getting a junk tri link to play with and see what I can home fab up then take somewhere for a final build. That is the thing we need in this next "lift" step though!

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

hahahaha,, I just happen to have a "junk" one, lol, I'm going to give it to the guy to see what they can come up with. We need to measure and play as well.

This is very ruff, but Heres what we have in a Standard KJ



Then what happens when we lift the KJ with bigger coils ( remember I'm talking new ride possition, not flexing, the flexing then exaggerates the problem) As you see the mounts from tri-link to subframe are now constantly running at an angle, that is wear those joints more and reduce the working angles. Then you can see that the rear ball joint is now at an angle to the diff, once again, reducing the amount of available movement. and by swinging down, the diff is moving forward as well, bringing tyres closer to the wheel wells.




What we need, angle at the mounting and ball joint mounts to correct the drop and bring the working of the mounts and ball joints back to standard, also the arm needs to be slightly longer to put the wheels back in the centre of the wheel wells (that would be where we also need the lower control arms to be adjustable)




I know, bad drawings but, I'm working on the fly here


cmohr

_________________
SOME SAY

I'm Toight... Toight lik a Toiger.

And

When I go to the Toilet, Chuck Norris is there to tear the squares off for me.

"Pass me another one Chuck, and keep em coming!! On sencond thoughts..Go get the hose"

yep thats about the design that was floating around in my head from what I have thought out should not be that big of a deal to do really, I mean yes getting the correct lenghth/angles etc but not so bad.

good drawing though, knew right where you were!

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

JBA sells this little product and it actually works for getting the upper tri-link back into it's correct working angles,though it doesn't lengthin the tri-link.
http://jeepinbyal.com/prod-Link_Extension-463.aspx

have looked at that but since it didn't make it any longer then not quite what I want

_________________
MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

The Nth Degree won't really give us any more flex, but because they are doglegged, they allow more clearance. That's all I am going for. I can't flex anymore or I'll be ripping my fenders off and damaging tires anyway. Just trying to optimize my clearance.

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My Jeep Build ----> Big Black

And yes, Tom, you were correct. 17 1/8 or 1/4. Right in there with the measurements.

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My Jeep Build ----> Big Black

I understand what you are looking for but that tri-link extension will help prolong the life of the ball joint on someone not looking to recenter the rear axle.

I may go ahead and order one just to see what it does for me, will not hurt anything for sure

_________________
MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Yes, thats the part I was talking about earlier, good idea, but, If we are going to start going to adjustable lower control arms , adjustable uppers are going to be needed to correct the diff angle.


Let us know how you go with the bracket, I may have to get one as well, till, we can fab up something.

_________________
SOME SAY

I'm Toight... Toight lik a Toiger.

And

When I go to the Toilet, Chuck Norris is there to tear the squares off for me.

"Pass me another one Chuck, and keep em coming!! On sencond thoughts..Go get the hose"

is anybody running the rear swaybar with a 2-3" lift? does it still work ok? i have had mine off for a long while. but not sure if i put it back on will keep me from over stressing my rear tri-link balljoint? ill still get plenty of flex with the swaybar on right?

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2002 Cactus Green Renegade~OME HD/Rancho
235-85-16 Firestone Destination MT's~Detroit Locker~AL's 4.5 Arms
ARB bumper/Superwinch 9k~PIAA 540 driving lights/PIAA reverse lights~Crane 8.25 diff cover

I have never taken my rear sway bar off and unless Jon cut his off his is still on.

I bought a rear tri link from a member on here and will be trying it out when I switch out my rear diff for the new one
Whats nice about it is that there is some adjustment built in plus its red to match the 4.5 UCAs

_________________
MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

I ran my sway bar for a while after I lifted my KJ and there was no rub in the rear with 3" bumpstops. Took it out and now I get a lot of rub. I think it would help keep things for over extending if you put the sway bar back on. Couldn't hurt.

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My Jeep Build ----> Big Black

i have had mine off for a looooong time now. after i lifted it and put the 32" tires on with 2" bumpstops(2 hockeypucks) i got rub back there on the flare. then i added a 3rd and that stopped the rub, without the swaybar. just like a halfhour ago i put my swaybar back on, and put anti-sieze on the 4 bolts too lol

so this weekend ill test it out. im sure itll flex just fine still with it on

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2002 Cactus Green Renegade~OME HD/Rancho
235-85-16 Firestone Destination MT's~Detroit Locker~AL's 4.5 Arms
ARB bumper/Superwinch 9k~PIAA 540 driving lights/PIAA reverse lights~Crane 8.25 diff cover