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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 3:14 am 
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Thanks VegiH !

I'll wait for a reply!

I was driving the CRD tonight, I don't often drive it as it's mainly my wife's vehicle. It seems to consistently have turbo lag after it shifts in to second gear, along with some black smoke. If you give it a decent amount of throttle, it smokes pretty good.....followed by cars behind me slowing down (probably saying...WTF) :shock:

I haven't checked the turbo hoses and connections, I'm not sure if that would have to do with the smoke but maybe the turbo lag if there was a leak?

Just my luck....I own a 2008 Kenworth with a 8.3L Cummins and I have had some problems with it. There's software calibration issues with it along with a possible EGR problem. I use to own a 2001 Dodge Cummins and I spent a bunch of money modifying it (lift pump, gauges etc). It seems like it never ends! I wish I could just hire one of you guys to do all these mods to my CRD, to do it right! This garbage wears thin after a while! :cry:


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 3:37 am 
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Check your PM.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 11:48 am 
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There's nothing in my inbox. Maybe that's on the fritz too!

Here is my email address if anyone can forward some info on the intall of the SEGR.

matterickson@telus.net


Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 5:31 pm 
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If you've got a P0401 and a P0299, the vehicle seems laggy and you have a lot of black smoke at the same time, then the EGR valve is stuck open partially.

There's not much you can do other than: pull it off, let it soak and hope that the valve frees up (you can unbolt the solenoid from the top to let it soak); or, you can replace valve outright.

Once you've completed that, you can the proceed to SEGR/unplug the MAF connector/whatever floats your boat. But in any case, you have to fix the valve first before anything else will work right.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 6:57 pm 
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Thanks for that MrMopar!

I'm assuming that you soak it in solvent? In most cases do you need to replace the EGR valve vs. being able to get the old one going? If the odds are I will need a new EGR, then I will probably buy one on ebay right away.

Thanks !
Matt


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 9:22 pm 
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OR just put a block-off plate on the EGR. Then do the SEGR and your problems are gone forever.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 2:08 am 
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Ya,what tim said but you only use your CRD off-road(like on a farm) right?Thats my story and NOone ever asks........

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 2:29 am 
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MrMopar64 wrote:
If you've got a P0401 and a P0299, the vehicle seems laggy and you have a lot of black smoke at the same time, then the EGR valve is stuck open partially.

There's not much you can do other than: pull it off, let it soak and hope that the valve frees up (you can unbolt the solenoid from the top to let it soak); or, you can replace valve outright.

Once you've completed that, you can the proceed to SEGR/unplug the MAF connector/whatever floats your boat. But in any case, you have to fix the valve first before anything else will work right.


MrMopar64 - I currently have error code P0610 and the scanner refers to the output VSS on the gearbox yet my speedo still works. The scanner couldn't clear the code is it possible then that the sensor is buggered or is it possible that a fuse has blown if there is one for the VSS.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 4:13 am 
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Mack,

The P0610 is a fault path for an error either with the EEPROM memory and/or the options coding which tells what specific vehicle options the car has (cruise, AC, etc) so as to enable or disable some diagnostics. The programming of the variant would have been done in the plant and shouldn't ever change, unless you did some sequence right with a dead battery. In any case, this would need reflashed by the dealer to take care of.

Baddabing,

I'd say to soak the valve in a vat of something like parts cleaner or brake parts cleaner for a day. I suppose you could even use a small bowl of gasoline, kerosene, etc. - pretty much take it apart, you'll see that it's gummed up, and choose your poison based on what you think will work best for what's in there.

I've seen in some cases that the fault will be set by a valve that's just not responding fast enough, so I think that it's more cost effective to try and clean it. If soaking for a day and/or cleaning once or twice doesn't clear it up, then I'd replace it.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 5:43 am 
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I'm just hoping that there's no serious damage to the ECM.

I had to jump start her recently and made the mistake of connecting the negative to the battery instead of to a grounding so i'm told.
I immediately noticed the cel after starting her. Later i found that the fuel primer fuse had blown and then i found that the fuel pump had blown as well.

I recently also had someone connect an Elm to the OBD but wouldn't read so he connected an autotap to it and read the data from the ECM. I was wondering if anything during this operation could have changed the vehicle options but according to him it can't because he needed a protocol to be able to make any alterations.

When he scanned after the cel came on after jump starting, this was about a week later, he said that it was a pending error so its just become helluva confusing.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 3:37 pm 
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baddabing wrote:
Thanks for that MrMopar!

I'm assuming that you soak it in solvent? In most cases do you need to replace the EGR valve vs. being able to get the old one going? If the odds are I will need a new EGR, then I will probably buy one on ebay right away.

Thanks !
Matt


Do not buy anything all you have to do is to get a rectangular piece of metal loose the two bolts that come from the exu. pipe and slide the metal between the two bolts, then tite the bolts, that is all. Then do your Serg or disconnect the map.
Thats what I did with mine and it work. so far so good.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 2:34 am 
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nescosmo wrote:
baddabing wrote:
Thanks for that MrMopar!

I'm assuming that you soak it in solvent? In most cases do you need to replace the EGR valve vs. being able to get the old one going? If the odds are I will need a new EGR, then I will probably buy one on ebay right away.

Thanks !
Matt


Do not buy anything all you have to do is to get a rectangular piece of metal loose the two bolts that come from the exu. pipe and slide the metal between the two bolts, then tite the bolts, that is all. Then do your Serg or disconnect the map.
Thats what I did with mine and it work. so far so good.


Thanks very much for the info. If I did buy one, it would be 300.00 with exchange and shipping! :cry:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 7:52 am 
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baddabing

I notice yours is a 06 with 26k miles on it. Is it three years old yet? Mine was not and I was getting intermittent 401's and 2 weeks ago the dealer replaced both the EGR and FCV valves under warranty. It took better then half a day and the parts were listed as around $700 :shock: Even if you get the SEGR you might want the hardware repaired in case you ever need it :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 9:32 am 
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Joe Romas wrote:
baddabing

I notice yours is a 06 with 26k miles on it. Is it three years old yet? Mine was not and I was getting intermittent 401's and 2 weeks ago the dealer replaced both the EGR and FCV valves under warranty. It took better then half a day and the parts were listed as around $700 :shock: Even if you get the SEGR you might want the hardware repaired in case you ever need it :lol:


Joe,

I bought this CRD last summer when the Canadain dollar was worth more than the U.S dollar. I had it shipped up from Texas and imported in to Canada. The down side to buying a U.S vehicle and bringing it to Canada is, Chrysler doesn't honour the remaining warranty. In this case it was a 7 year bumper to bumper. :cry: I made sure before I bought it that everything was fixed, recalls...TSB's etc. In the end, even with no warranty it was still a great deal.

So that being said, it won't be going for any warranty work at my local Chrysler dealer. We don't have any smog tests here or anything like that either.

The idea of capping the area were the EGR is and then go with a SEGR, that's what I have been thinking of doing as of right now.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 9:58 am 
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I was wondering if you can drive it into Washington for the warranty work then drive back home when done. Otherwise egr can be removed and cleaned.

I have a cousin that comes to Washington from Surry. When she is shopping in Washington she fills her tank for a discount by punching in my phone number at the pump.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 6:17 pm 
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My recollection of the SEGR is that it uses a relay to 'operate normally' when in neutral and park. Therefore, you may experience codes if the ECU doesn't like what it sees during those times. This could be the case if you block the EGR with a plate (etc)...

Perhaps one of the creators of the thing can comment on this likelihood?

Mark
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baddabing wrote:
The idea of capping the area were the EGR is and then go with a SEGR, that's what I have been thinking of doing as of right now.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 12:24 am 
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The SEGR totally bypasses the EGR. It will NEVER operate again (unless YOU plug in the bypass plug to restore everything back to original).
The relay that they are talking about turns the AFC valve (or Air Flow Control) back on. It is a butterfly valve that closes partially during EGR operation to help the engine suck in exhaust. This is turned OFF during normal driving. The relay turns it back ON in Park or Neutral so when you turn the key off, the engine will shut down normally without any shudder. (This AFC valve closes fully when turning off the engine).
Note that the EGR and AFC valves work together to make it possible for the engine to suck in exhaust. Remember that (most) diesel engines are wide open (no butterfly or throttle valve) all the time. This is why they are needed to make the EGR work.
The SEGR tricks the computer to think that everything is working just fine.
Put one on and be happy.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 9:34 am 
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Since I am in Que for an SEGR. I thought maybe I should get a head start on this. I was planning on capping off where the EGR valve is. So my question is...should I wait for the SEGR before doing this, or can I go ahead with it. As stated earlier, I don't have don't have any manufactures warranty remaining anyway and I don't care if I have a CEL.....speaking of that, my CEL has now gone out :?


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