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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 8:54 pm 
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tommudd wrote:
Diggerfreek wrote:
Image


don't hog all the pop corn I only have him a little upset so far :lol: :lol: hope he makes a list and goes after others though so I can sit back and enjoy

ok, ok, ok, here you go Image

:-)r :-)r :-)r :-)r

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 11:09 pm 
Tom, we all know that the 12" lifted KJ is like 8 times bigger than your old van.

Now just STFU! :lol:

And digger, you're just jealous of my helicopter mod :x


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 11:13 pm 
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ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:
Tom, we all know that the 12" lifted KJ is like 8 times bigger than your old van.

Now just STFU! :lol:

And digger, you're just jealous of my helicopter mod :x


na, your all good, just don't hate on the spare :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 11:57 pm 
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Hey, has anyone compared the noobs IP address to Jason's?????

:-)r

Thank Cthulu he points out that he has a D30 ( no A? ) FRONT and a 29 spline 8.25 REAR. That sets it apart from all of those 8.25 29-spline FRONTS or all of the 27-spline KJ 8.25's... :roll: If he hadn't emphasized which axle was where, why, I am sure none of use would know...

Or maybe he did a SFA and no longer has a D30a?

I could not imagine a longer sig line to say nuttin' if it is " so far stock ":

2003 Lib Renegade (so far stock)
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Dana 30 FRONT ,Chrysler 8.25 True-trac, 29 spline REAR


I never knew that Truetracs were stock? Maybe someone is confused over a Trac-loc? Or?? A mystery....

My point is that if a guy wants to question someone else ( after having been here a whopping 2 weeks ) maybe he should have his own house in order first.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 12:11 am 
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InCommando wrote:
Hey, has anyone compared the noobs IP address to Jason's?????

:-)r

Thank Cthulu he points out that he has a D30 ( no A? ) FRONT and a 29 spline 8.25 REAR. That sets it apart from all of those 8.25 29-spline FRONTS or all of the 27-spline KJ 8.25's... :roll: If he hadn't emphasized which axle was where, why, I am sure none of use would know...

Or maybe he did a SFA and no longer has a D30a?

I could not imagine a longer sig line to say nuttin' if it is " so far stock ":

2003 Lib Renegade (so far stock)
3.7L V6
45RFE TRANNY
NV231 Selec-Trac
Dana 30 FRONT ,Chrysler 8.25 True-trac, 29 spline REAR


I never knew that Truetracs were stock? Maybe someone is confused over a Trac-loc? Or?? A mystery....

My point is that if a guy would wants to question someone else ( after having been here a whopping 2 weeks ) maybe he should have his own house in order first.


very special stock models had the Truetracs, I think they built 3 or 4

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 12:15 am 
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he's all good....unless jt got a new internet provider, he had 2200+ post from the same ip

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 12:21 am 
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Diggerfreek wrote:
he's all good....unless jt got a new internet provider, he had 2200+ post from the same ip


Man I want to be a mod so I have access to info like that :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

j/k :wink: I would NEVER be allowed to be one :lol: :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 12:51 am 
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Useless, non functional, and downright dangerous, but hey if you ever decide to use it after its completion .....its your jeep not mine....have fun :shock: :shock:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:14 am 
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LIV42DY wrote:
Useless, non functional, and downright dangerous, but hey if you ever decide to use it after its completion .....its your jeep not mine....have fun :shock: :shock:


Glad I didn't say that I get in enough trouble the way it is :lol: :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:01 pm 
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anyone wanna pass me some pop corn? :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 3:02 pm 
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Quicksilversurf917 wrote:
anyone wanna pass me some pop corn? :lol:



:lol: ... I'll make a new bag :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 4:16 pm 
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I wonder how JBA got around the shorter drive shafts problem on that CRD...

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:23 pm 
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So... just for s&g's, I know a few people with toy's that use a slight cradle drop and coilovers to achieve 6-8" of lift. Whats to stop say, a liberty from using a 2" cradle drop, I know theres a lot of complication, but it can be done, and a 2" drop must be easier than 7"! then use a 8-9" long 5"- 6" travel coilover attached to the clevis fork. In the rear its pretty simple, 6" springs and long arms. I'm sure somthing like that can be done. Guys like me don't want to run 33" tires, 31's or 32's that can travel and stuff, and retain a excellent street drive is far more attractive than that mall crawl rig.

** i know jba has a 6" kit, but i think it can be done better and more reliable. Long arms in the rear makes it way worth it.

** don't bash, im not a lift engineer, i just observe and ask questions. So whats stopping someone from doing this other than $$$

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:28 pm 
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Quote:
Guys like me don't want to run 33" tires, 31's or 32's that can travel and stuff, and retain a excellent street drive is far more attractive than that mall crawl rig.


I don't have an issue with my 32's On or Offroad with my Frankie. Stuff and flex just fine...
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Image

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:36 pm 
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daspes wrote:
Quote:
Guys like me don't want to run 33" tires, 31's or 32's that can travel and stuff, and retain a excellent street drive is far more attractive than that mall crawl rig.


I don't have an issue with my 32's On or Offroad with my Frankie. Stuff and flex just fine...
Image
Image


you don't want more travel? I know you can fit the 32's on a 4" frankie, but having 6" of lift, long arms in the rear, and better travel coilovers up front wouldn't be a bit more apealing? Also wouldn't droping the dif, a inch or two cause the angles to let the dif take more abuse?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:37 pm 
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ramlebliberty wrote:
So... just for s&g's, I know a few people with toy's that use a slight cradle drop and coilovers to achieve 6-8" of lift. Whats to stop say, a liberty from using a 2" cradle drop, I know theres a lot of complication, but it can be done, and a 2" drop must be easier than 7"! then use a 8-9" long 5"- 6" travel coilover attached to the clevis fork. In the rear its pretty simple, 6" springs and long arms. I'm sure somthing like that can be done. Guys like me don't want to run 33" tires, 31's or 32's that can travel and stuff, and retain a excellent street drive is far more attractive than that mall crawl rig.

** i know jba has a 6" kit, but i think it can be done better and more reliable. Long arms in the rear makes it way worth it.

** don't bash, im not a lift engineer, i just observe and ask questions. So whats stopping someone from doing this other than $$$


Not bashing but have you ever torn a KJ suspension apart and really looked at what we have to work with in terms of space, travel etc? I have had mine apart at least 10 times or more now looking for that one cheap easy fix to go higher and what you have proposed may work on some IFS's but don't think it would work that well on a KJ now if we added a couple of custom parts it maybe but way expensive.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:50 pm 
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tommudd wrote:
ramlebliberty wrote:
So... just for s&g's, I know a few people with toy's that use a slight cradle drop and coilovers to achieve 6-8" of lift. Whats to stop say, a liberty from using a 2" cradle drop, I know theres a lot of complication, but it can be done, and a 2" drop must be easier than 7"! then use a 8-9" long 5"- 6" travel coilover attached to the clevis fork. In the rear its pretty simple, 6" springs and long arms. I'm sure somthing like that can be done. Guys like me don't want to run 33" tires, 31's or 32's that can travel and stuff, and retain a excellent street drive is far more attractive than that mall crawl rig.

** i know jba has a 6" kit, but i think it can be done better and more reliable. Long arms in the rear makes it way worth it.

** don't bash, im not a lift engineer, i just observe and ask questions. So whats stopping someone from doing this other than $$$


Not bashing but have you ever torn a KJ suspension apart and really looked at what we have to work with in terms of space, travel etc? I have had mine apart at least 10 times or more now looking for that one cheap easy fix to go higher and what you have proposed may work on some IFS's but don't think it would work that well on a KJ now if we added a couple of custom parts it maybe but way expensive.


i always make sure to dig into things so I can diagnose and fix them later. I have torn the suspension apart, and i do know that the space we have is a problem, but... if someone can do a sfa for $6500, why cant someone fab a lift of that style? note what I said before man, what is keeping someone from doing this, other than money? Why make this monstrous lift, when you can apply the same theory to something smaller that would be far more practical?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 11:01 pm 
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I'm saying I don't have a problem with articulation. If I allow my front to droop any farther it won''t help much since there isn't enough weight on the front wheel when it is at full droop anyway, so no real gain in traction.
Image
Even if my wheel were to be on the ground here, it wouldn't move me anywhere since there isn't enough pressure there to gain traction. With a SFA, leverage would ensure that it gained traction. But with just springs pushing down, it isn't enough pressure.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 11:01 pm 
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You could make a smaller lift but you would not have any suspension travel, next time you are under yours look under at the engine etc. and try and determine how you would make a shorter lift and have everything in the same place, its just not doable really

note what I said before man :? :? :? sorry

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 11:56 pm 
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ramlebliberty wrote:

you don't want more travel? I know you can fit the 32's on a 4" frankie, but having 6" of lift, long arms in the rear, and better travel coilovers up front wouldn't be a bit more apealing? Also wouldn't droping the dif, a inch or two cause the angles to let the dif take more abuse?
Great for a SFA rig but with our IFS your not going to see any gains in articulation and have happy CV's.You'd need to spend another $10,000+ for custom CV's that can handle the extra droop,then you'd be better off doing a SFA swap.


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