JBA 12" KIT!!!

InCommando · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 12:55 am

ramlebliberty wrote:

tommudd wrote:

ramlebliberty wrote:

So... just for s&g's, I know a few people with toy's that use a slight cradle drop and coilovers to achieve 6-8" of lift. Whats to stop say, a liberty from using a 2" cradle drop, I know theres a lot of complication, but it can be done, and a 2" drop must be easier than 7"! then use a 8-9" long 5"- 6" travel coilover attached to the clevis fork. In the rear its pretty simple, 6" springs and long arms. I'm sure somthing like that can be done. Guys like me don't want to run 33" tires, 31's or 32's that can travel and stuff, and retain a excellent street drive is far more attractive than that mall crawl rig.

** i know jba has a 6" kit, but i think it can be done better and more reliable. Long arms in the rear makes it way worth it.

** don't bash, im not a lift engineer, i just observe and ask questions. So whats stopping someone from doing this other than $$$

Not bashing but have you ever torn a KJ suspension apart and really looked at what we have to work with in terms of space, travel etc? I have had mine apart at least 10 times or more now looking for that one cheap easy fix to go higher and what you have proposed may work on some IFS's but don't think it would work that well on a KJ now if we added a couple of custom parts it maybe but way expensive.

i always make sure to dig into things so I can diagnose and fix them later. I have torn the suspension apart, and i do know that the space we have is a problem, but... if someone can do a sfa for $6500, why cant someone fab a lift of that style? note what I said before man, what is keeping someone from doing this, other than money? Why make this monstrous lift, when you can apply the same theory to something smaller that would be far more practical?

I am not sure anyone has done one that cheaply? The guy whose shop claimed they could do it for that screwed it up and he ended up spending more to make it right. That shop has been advertising the lift for that, but again, it apparently is not safe or reliable for that price. I admit I do not read the SFA section religiously, but I missed it if someone got a safe, reliable SFA swap for that few $$$.

LIV42DY · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 1:41 am

1st, why would you want to lift your kj to 12" with cv's joints? You will gain Nothing! you run 33' or 35' meats and you will destroy the front axel and cv joints, next your input shaft, ..CV Joint , even if you get the lightest tire out there think of the force it will take to spin that axle when you bog yourself in the mud or jumping over boulders , aluminum dif

NOT! as Troy said unless you send a hole lot of money on the shafts no one is going no where off road, not for long anyway. Cradle drop? not advisable, bottom line I could go on for ever giving reasons and specifications why not, but I may sound to smart..just a joke

. will it look Cool? Absolutely! functional, absolutely not! Anyone that would even be looking to go that high would be logical to save your money and do a correct SFA. Now you would have an on road and off road vehicle and a unique KJ. At least you know you will be able to go out , Wheel it, and come back in one piece. Otherwise leave the KJ without that 12' jacker.

HoppedUpOnGoofballs · **Joined:** Sat Nov 29, 2008 10:36 pm **Posts:** 203

You know someone is going to buy it just so they can have a bumper sticker made that says "Im riding on Als big 12 inch"..

Pablo · **Joined:** Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm **Posts:** 1201

I would think putting money into a nice lower control arm that works with 4 and 5.5 inch lifts and eliminates the "c" clamp and keeps the wheels out instead of tucking them in would be a better idea. That is one of the main obstacles keeping me from purchasing a 4 inch lift. The second being a workable D30a replacement. Working on either of those would be a better use of resources than a 12 inch lift.

But if others buy it to drive to the mall, more power to them. But how many folk are really going to drop coin on it? Bueller? Bueller?

ramlebliberty · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 10:22 am

InCommando wrote:

ramlebliberty wrote:

tommudd wrote:

ramlebliberty wrote:

So... just for s&g's, I know a few people with toy's that use a slight cradle drop and coilovers to achieve 6-8" of lift. Whats to stop say, a liberty from using a 2" cradle drop, I know theres a lot of complication, but it can be done, and a 2" drop must be easier than 7"! then use a 8-9" long 5"- 6" travel coilover attached to the clevis fork. In the rear its pretty simple, 6" springs and long arms. I'm sure somthing like that can be done. Guys like me don't want to run 33" tires, 31's or 32's that can travel and stuff, and retain a excellent street drive is far more attractive than that mall crawl rig.

** i know jba has a 6" kit, but i think it can be done better and more reliable. Long arms in the rear makes it way worth it.

** don't bash, im not a lift engineer, i just observe and ask questions. So whats stopping someone from doing this other than $$$

Not bashing but have you ever torn a KJ suspension apart and really looked at what we have to work with in terms of space, travel etc? I have had mine apart at least 10 times or more now looking for that one cheap easy fix to go higher and what you have proposed may work on some IFS's but don't think it would work that well on a KJ now if we added a couple of custom parts it maybe but way expensive.

i always make sure to dig into things so I can diagnose and fix them later. I have torn the suspension apart, and i do know that the space we have is a problem, but... if someone can do a sfa for $6500, why cant someone fab a lift of that style? note what I said before man, what is keeping someone from doing this, other than money? Why make this monstrous lift, when you can apply the same theory to something smaller that would be far more practical?

I am not sure anyone has done one that cheaply? The guy whose shop claimed they could do it for that screwed it up and he ended up spending more to make it right. That shop has been advertising the lift for that, but again, it apparently is not safe or reliable for that price. I admit I do not read the SFA section religiously, but I missed it if someone got a safe, reliable SFA swap for that few $$$.

i got quoted at $6500 not including wheels and tires for the exact same thing he has right now

ramlebliberty · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 10:34 am

ramlebliberty wrote:

InCommando wrote:

ramlebliberty wrote:

tommudd wrote:

ramlebliberty wrote:

So... just for s&g's, I know a few people with toy's that use a slight cradle drop and coilovers to achieve 6-8" of lift. Whats to stop say, a liberty from using a 2" cradle drop, I know theres a lot of complication, but it can be done, and a 2" drop must be easier than 7"! then use a 8-9" long 5"- 6" travel coilover attached to the clevis fork. In the rear its pretty simple, 6" springs and long arms. I'm sure somthing like that can be done. Guys like me don't want to run 33" tires, 31's or 32's that can travel and stuff, and retain a excellent street drive is far more attractive than that mall crawl rig.

** i know jba has a 6" kit, but i think it can be done better and more reliable. Long arms in the rear makes it way worth it.

** don't bash, im not a lift engineer, i just observe and ask questions. So whats stopping someone from doing this other than $$$

Not bashing but have you ever torn a KJ suspension apart and really looked at what we have to work with in terms of space, travel etc? I have had mine apart at least 10 times or more now looking for that one cheap easy fix to go higher and what you have proposed may work on some IFS's but don't think it would work that well on a KJ now if we added a couple of custom parts it maybe but way expensive.

i always make sure to dig into things so I can diagnose and fix them later. I have torn the suspension apart, and i do know that the space we have is a problem, but... if someone can do a sfa for $6500, why cant someone fab a lift of that style? note what I said before man, what is keeping someone from doing this, other than money? Why make this monstrous lift, when you can apply the same theory to something smaller that would be far more practical?

I am not sure anyone has done one that cheaply? The guy whose shop claimed they could do it for that screwed it up and he ended up spending more to make it right. That shop has been advertising the lift for that, but again, it apparently is not safe or reliable for that price. I admit I do not read the SFA section religiously, but I missed it if someone got a safe, reliable SFA swap for that few $$$.

i got quoted at $6500 not including wheels and tires for the exact same thing he has right now

thats from Cape Fear 4x4 in wilmington NC, they've been in petersens 4 wheel and off road magazine numerous times, they are a very legit shop and james has had no complaints about the job they did, and he wheels a lot.

LIV42DY · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 12:34 pm

I will have to agree , to sink a bit more time an effort to re design the front of the 6" would be worht it. In all honesty the only part that needs to be looked at is that C clip holding the UCA, but you know what... it can be made out of...never mind dont want to give anybody any ideas

also a bit of work on the rear arms. and call it a day. But again we need to keep in mind that the KJ the way it was designed was not built to go that high.

Joe Jeeper · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 2:43 pm

I guess you don't like this set-up? It's been working good for me so far.
This spring I intend on doing a lot more wheelin' my buddy will have his bronco done and I'll get some more pics.

Happy Wheeling!

Joe Jeeper · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 2:45 pm

P.S. If you notice my upper control arm comes out about level. I have the Tereflex bump stops modified 3/8". Woops, bump stops not shown in this pic!

InCommando · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 2:49 pm

As you can fit 32's without the 6" lift, what did you gain by the larger outlay of cash? Not bashing, seriously asking....

I did stop reading OHV's build at about the time he ripped the rear suspension apart while driving around in 2wd. I will have to catch up on the rest.

EDIT: Does Cape Fear 4x4 have a website? I can't find one in google.

Joe Jeeper · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 3:18 pm

You can fit them but the'll rub wheeling, been there done that with the 4". I gained alot of droop in the front when wheeling with the disconnects off, tires don't rub anywhere, back has phenomenal articulation.
Here's a shot of the Bump stop.

Joe Jeeper · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 3:26 pm

I could put 33's on like Marlin but they wouldn't stuff as well as 32's and I don't want to remove my liners.

ramlebliberty · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 5:42 pm

Joe Jeeper wrote:

I guess you don't like this set-up? It's been working good for me so far.
This spring I intend on doing a lot more wheelin' my buddy will have his bronco done and I'll get some more pics.

Happy Wheeling!

It's not that I don't like the setup, i just think with dropping the dif a inch or two you could ease up on that angle the cv's have. Making the dif. more durable. And also fabbing some type of clevis fork to allow you to get rid of that c-clip. Fab a way to move the shock back a bit (1") so its not in risk of hitting the uca, giving you the ability to travel more. Again I'm not an engineer, but I could see this working if someone put time & $$$ into it.

RAYMAN975 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 6:04 pm

in order to get rid of that red C-clip/upperball joint spacer, we would need new taller knuckles/spindles made, where the upper balljoint bolts up $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ :shock:

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:32 pm

RAYMAN975 wrote:

in order to get rid of that red C-clip/upperball joint spacer, we would need new taller knuckles/spindles made, where the upper balljoint bolts up $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ :shock:

man thats a lot of money Ray :shock:

if only we were all super rich!

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:34 pm

tommudd wrote:

RAYMAN975 wrote:

in order to get rid of that red C-clip/upperball joint spacer, we would need new taller knuckles/spindles made, where the upper balljoint bolts up $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ :shock:

man thats a lot of money Ray :shock:

if only we were all super rich!

Only $2500 for the prototype SuperLift ones :wink:

.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:37 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

tommudd wrote:

RAYMAN975 wrote:

in order to get rid of that red C-clip/upperball joint spacer, we would need new taller knuckles/spindles made, where the upper balljoint bolts up $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ :shock:

man thats a lot of money Ray :shock:

if only we were all super rich!

Only $2500 for the prototype SuperLift ones :wink:

.

sold my roof rack today only need 2400 more :lol:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:39 pm

tommudd wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

tommudd wrote:

RAYMAN975 wrote:

in order to get rid of that red C-clip/upperball joint spacer, we would need new taller knuckles/spindles made, where the upper balljoint bolts up $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ :shock:

man thats a lot of money Ray :shock:

if only we were all super rich!

Only $2500 for the prototype SuperLift ones :wink:

.

sold my roof rack today only need 2400 more :lol:

That's $2500 each :shock:

,so only $4900 more to go.

ramlebliberty · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:21 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

tommudd wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

tommudd wrote:

RAYMAN975 wrote:

in order to get rid of that red C-clip/upperball joint spacer, we would need new taller knuckles/spindles made, where the upper balljoint bolts up $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ :shock:

man thats a lot of money Ray :shock:

if only we were all super rich!

Only $2500 for the prototype SuperLift ones :wink:

.

sold my roof rack today only need 2400 more :lol:

That's $2500 each :shock:

,so only $4900 more to go.

don't get me wrong i'm not a rocket scientist, just a step above stupid... wouldn't moving the top of the spring inward and having it on a angle, eliminate the need for the knuckle/ spindle? also dropping the dif an inch or two would keep it in range of the clevis fork? that would mean the only custom fabbing would be making a braket to move the coilover inward on top. a sawzall goes a long way :twisted:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:26 pm

ramlebliberty wrote:

don't get me wrong i'm not a rocket scientist, just a step above stupid... wouldn't moving the top of the spring inward and having it on a angle, eliminate the need for the knuckle/ spindle? also dropping the dif an inch or two would keep it in range of the clevis fork? that would mean the only custom fabbing would be making a braket to move the coilover inward on top. a sawzall goes a long way :twisted:

No way to move the coilover assembly anymore inward and you can't move the bottom outwards unless you make custom LCA's,but you's still need a longer knuckle either way unless you want that spacer.

JBA 12" KIT!!!

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