Have the balls to name the accused.

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2005 sport crd-SOLD No regrets

Oh come on now, easy does it, I'm sure there is more that's not having failures then those that are. I don't see any problem of improving an already good working system. I like to tinker and make it better if possible. Let's say that I'm lucky that I didn't break something yet. If you have no problems with yours, cool beans.

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2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair

Ditto, me too. And you are certainly not the one referenced.

I don't understand why this subject is such a big deal. There is a problem with the fuel system that is well understood at this point. People who have no problems with it are free to ignore it. Others who don't but understand the issue have an informed choice. My hat is off to the pioneers before me who have exposed and dealt with this issue.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

Cain't we just ....all.....get along? *


*Rodney King

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

If Wix is the best, which I use by the way....sniff.....and Gray Poop-on on my red hot dawgs.
Why do they only filter down to 10 micron?
Seems a little big to me if all the research is correct.

Jeez, can't these people do anything right?

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'06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD with: GDE Hot Flash and Tranny Flash, ehm, Cummins fuel pump, 3" Magnaflow muff, Moog K3199's, Skids, 225-75-16 10 ply, OME springs, Euro T/C, Shift kit, Trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Bigboy bkt, Samco CAC, Brake controller, Trans temp gauge, Al's Upper Arms

This is why I have a problem with this whole discussion. The stock fuel system works. Period.There's just too many running around stock to think otherwise. Can you make it better? Sure can. You can always make things better. But there is a point of diminishing returns. Most people just want to fix the problem with the least amount of money and work.(if you don't believe this you've never worked in a repair shop) I'll ask again...
Please direct me to the place where I can see a fuel system failure where the inadequate oem filter was at fault.

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2005 sport crd-SOLD No regrets

Are you serious? Do a search. This has been an active issue for years.

For the last time, no one doubts that not everyone has had a symptom, but there is clearly a design deficiency in the fuel delivery. If you choose not to see it, that's YOUR problem.

_________________
'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

It's the old argument about crows: find one white\red\blue\orange\yellow\etc crow, and there goes the fact that all crows are black

Same here: this fuel system can work - we have proof that this fuel system does not always work

To be fair, an electric-pumped system does not work when the lift pump quits - but then, neither system works when the filter stops up, eh.........etc, etc, ad infinitum - et tu brute, mea cupid

While I've always agreed that Diesel fuel systems work best under vacuum, because of the inherent aeration problem, this system is not properly implemented to reliably function in the vacuum mode - a simple fix is to replace the plastic slip-on fuel-line connectors with clamped rubber hose - when the primer pump-rod seals begin to leak air, replace the fuel manager\filter head

Then, for the system to function reliably, without burning the fuel-heater puck, the owner should bleed the collected air from the top of the fuel head on a weekly basis, possibly at each fuel-up, particularly in spring\summer\fall months with hot ambients, when Diesel-fuel aeration peaks - reason for constant bleeding is: first cold day requiring heated fuel, in-rush of heater current is gonna be into dead air at each start every day\nite until owner remembers to bleed the head = cremated puck

The burned fuel-heater puck would seem to be evidence of large air pocket due to a.) accumulated aeration rising to highest point in system, or\and b.) system air leaks

Which is the better, more reliable fix? The oem vacuum-type system which may require constant owner attention, or the simple auxiliary electric lift pump?

It's prolly just me, but seems to me that folks can make better-informed decisions if presented with more than one side of the story - less, of course, those dratted castignations.......................

FYI: castignations = castigation + indignation, fr indignities

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Gmctd,

I believe you are the biggest asset this forum has. No matter what issue is being discussed, I never think it has been properly discussed until I read a post with your take on the problem or lack of a problem. I really enjoy the depth you go to help some of us understand all the dynamics involved and you have been the "test dummy" for a lot of the fixes I have needed for my CRD. Keep everyone on topic and all minds open. Nobody forces anyone to do anything here and we are free to fully discuss the issues resulting from the original design weaknesses and from tried fixes. I had serious nagging problems with air in my fuel system. You pioneered the Cummins lift pump install that has solved all the problems I had with it. I am forever greatful. I have gotten along with the stock filter, filter head, and have plugged the heater back in nearly a year ago. No leaks at the puck and no air in the primer pump. If you do not have a problem with yours, I could not be happier for you but I can not imagine where I would be now without someone knowing how to fix this fuel problem and putting it in simple enough terms that a dummy like me could do it. My CEL is now only visable during startup. Great feeling.

_________________
White Sport '05 Libby CRD - born on date: 6/3/2005, FIA Grill Blanket, Fumoto drain plug, 2.8 CRD Turbo Diesel hood decals, Jeep windshield bug & stone deflector, Molded tire cover with custom JEEP & Liberty CRD decals, Cummins Lift Pump, Pro-vent, GDE Eco no limit tune, Odyssey 34R drycell battery, Meziere in-line stat, ETecno1 glow plugs

Premium quality only refers to measuring up to the Manufacturers Specifications, if the specifications call for a brick a premium brick is a quality brick but still a brick

VM chose to spec the 10 micron filter and with a lift pump installed, a 2 micron will work at the needed flow. I suspect VM compromised and went with the 10 micron to not require an additional lift pump for other applications the 2.8L is used in.

I am trying to find a filter that will spin on and have a way for the existing filter head and water in fuel sensor to be reused. One candidate used on Volvo, Deutz, and Fiat truck engines is being fazed out of production and being sold on clearance. My goal is to have a cost effective 2 micron spin on filter that will fit the existing head and use the existing WIF sensor. When I have it worked out and installed, I will post it as an option and only recommend it for those who have upgraded to a lift pump.
For now the weather does not want to cooperate when I am home.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Well,

I have had NO problems with my stiock fuel set-up. Until now. The clock just turned past 40K miles. My wife experienced one "limp mode" type sympton 20K miles ago. I experienced a few this winter. Yes, after I let someone put a few gallons of rug in the tank. But, that has happened since then. In the process of changing the fuel filter, I noticed the "deformed" heater plug. Had I not been checking this forum, I would not have known to check it. And, would have simply blamed it on the RUG having been in the tank. To be clear, I have run 100 gallons of fuel through the tank since the RUG was in there.

I have always thought Chrysler made crap cars. I am actually pleasantly suprised at the general quality of this Jeep.

But - For something like the FUEL filter head, to be of such design that it could FAIL at 40K miles and cause harm, shows an "I don't care" type approach to quality. Actually, remember that "limp-mode" event my wife had 20K miles ago? I wonder if that was related to this issue. I only say "limp-mode" because that's the way she described it.

So, I will be replacing the filter head and filter asap. I think also, its time to do the other "upgrades" suggested on this forum.
I love the Liberty because it has the CRD.

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2006 4X4 CRD Limited Dark Khaki Build Date 03/06 - Her daily driver

Yes I'm old enough to know better

X2

_________________
Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

More likely, VM/Bosch gave the OEM's that choice, and DC opted for for the 10 micron/no pump to save money. I've heard a similar story related by a Bosch-trained tech at an area diesel shop, regarding the Duramax - Bosch told them they needed an X micron filter to protect the injection system, GM wanted a Y micron filter so their customers wouldn't become PO'd over frequent filter changes, they compromised and picked a Z micron filter in the middle of the range.

GM went to a 2 micron filter on later model Duramax trucks, still with a vacuum fuel system, and Duramax owners started experiencing the same problems - having to frequently bleed air out of the fuel system, stalling , no starts (especially in cold weather), misfiring, low power. And they came up with the same solution - adding even a low pressure lift pump virtually eliminated their ills.

Good luck on your filter search. I spent quite a bit of time a couple years ago doing the same thing, with the same idea in mind. If you can find one, more power to you. After we tumbled onto the Omega temp probe, I decided for my part that any further fiddling with the OEM filter head was, in the words of a recent political candidate, nothing but putting lipstick on a pig - that the best choice for my part was to start with a clean slate.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

Awwww, shucks......t'anks, Scott..... - but, yeah, I gotta admit, there is a large bunch of people on this forum that bring a huge amount of knowledge on board - definitely makes it easy to present varous technical thoughts in layman's terms - 'course, I'll never fergit Jack, jr tech right outta school, who tole me "I don't wanna know how it works, jd - just tell me what's broke so I can fix it" - hmmph!.......some people's kids, eh..................

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Wow, this thread has gotten some good discussion going.

I picked up my new DC filter head and connector today.
Part number: 68043089AA, Description: "Separator", price 172.50 $CAN, comes with filter. Filter already has the black water sensor attached; you don't have to reuse the old one.

Connector part number: 68043086AA, Description: "WIRING KIT"
23.46 $CAN.
has a red and black wire and comes with 2 pieces of heat shrink tube and 2 little brass connectors


Seems expensive for the little plastic connector. I will install the unit ASAP. probably tonight in -10 C (17 F). I have been having the problems lately with really poor running and stalling at first start up, so I will be interested to see if this helps. Sounds like I maybe getting air in the system from the plastic connectors at the tank. Is it possible the air was just getting in from the old fuel head?
If I am still having problems with the new head installed I will try replacing the plastic connectors at the tank with rubber hose and clamps. If that doesn't fix it I will try an electric pump. I would like to try and avoid the electric pump if possible (one less moving part to rely on) but I don't want to be bleeding air all the time.

_________________
05 CRD, F37 and ball joint recall.
Brought to Canada from Wash. state,
no warranty
Trying new style Mopar Filter Head installed Jan 27/09.
I think it's Blue, my wife thinks it's green

The old fuel head is the biggest issue - several folks just replaced that and got dramatically improved performance
(of course they were going to Racor) - but the key is the new head seals the heater plug - that's where the old ones are failing.

The tank connectors are a good fix later - but I sure wouldn't do it at -10 or 17 (C or F) they're both cold.

_________________
2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Just finished installing the new Mopar Filter head. It was very easy, it only took about an hour max in -8C. I warmed the jeep up first to make the plastic connectors more pliable. It ran good after and priming was very easy. The ultimate test will be tomorrow morning when it is good and cold to see if this solves my rough cold running problems. I also took some comparison pictures and will try to post them.

_________________
05 CRD, F37 and ball joint recall.
Brought to Canada from Wash. state,
no warranty
Trying new style Mopar Filter Head installed Jan 27/09.
I think it's Blue, my wife thinks it's green