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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:09 pm 
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
0311_DoC wrote:
dieselenthusiast wrote:
0311_DoC wrote:
I have been toying with this as well the 235/ 85 vs the 265/75. I have a CRD and my front end has dropped alot IMO since the FLII settled. plus the fact that I have the TR bumper and am about to finally put the winch on. I sure hope i can find away to gain some of that height back. but as far as the tires go, im wondering of the two choices which one will make her look taller. and perform better off road. I usually put my OEM on when i just drive around town to help save a few MPG's.


4:10's is your answer...................... IMO, a taller tire will look better and give you some height.


so what kinda improvements should i see by switching the gears?


Assuming that you are wanting to go with a 31” tire or taller, then here are my top 5 notable improvements.

1. 4”10’s will put you closer to your factory specifications. Meaning that your engine and transmission will not have to work so hard, therefore prolonging the life of your engine and transmission.
2. Your engine and transmission will run cooler temperatures, again prolonging the life of your engine and transmission
3. You will return some fuel economy. Depending on the height and weight of your tire, you may even see up to a 2mpg increase.
4. You will regain some low-end torque and a more efficient power curve
5. You will increase performance in the area of towing and mountain driving
ALSO............if you saved 2 mpg, then the gears would pay for themselves. 8)


great explanation !

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:22 pm 
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tommudd wrote:

great explanation !


You and Troy taught me well…………. :wink: And Diesel Power Magazine.... :shock:

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:48 pm 
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
0311_DoC wrote:
dieselenthusiast wrote:
0311_DoC wrote:
I have been toying with this as well the 235/ 85 vs the 265/75. I have a CRD and my front end has dropped alot IMO since the FLII settled. plus the fact that I have the TR bumper and am about to finally put the winch on. I sure hope i can find away to gain some of that height back. but as far as the tires go, im wondering of the two choices which one will make her look taller. and perform better off road. I usually put my OEM on when i just drive around town to help save a few MPG's.


4:10's is your answer...................... IMO, a taller tire will look better and give you some height.


so what kinda improvements should i see by switching the gears?


Assuming that you are wanting to go with a 31” tire or taller, then here are my top 5 notable improvements.

1. 4”10’s will put you closer to your factory specifications. Meaning that your engine and transmission will not have to work so hard, therefore prolonging the life of your engine and transmission.
2. Your engine and transmission will run cooler temperatures, again prolonging the life of your engine and transmission
3. You will return some fuel economy. Depending on the height and weight of your tire, you may even see up to a 2mpg increase.
4. You will regain some low-end torque and a more efficient power curve
5. You will increase performance in the area of towing and mountain driving
ALSO............if you saved 2 mpg, then the gears would pay for themselves. 8)


well that's why I asked about the 235/85 vs 265/75 :) so I basically need skinnier wheels if I wanna run the 235/85's since i currently have the rubi moabs? and the 235/85 are better for the whole rock climbing thing less foot print etc? hmmm

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:59 pm 
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yes the 235-85s are a skinny tire would not work well at all on an 8 inch rim

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 11:08 pm 
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tommudd wrote:
yes the 235-85s are a skinny tire would not work well at all on an 8 inch rim


Damm.. what to do. so if I go the 265/75 route is it really that bad? as far as the whole foot print thing. I don't wheel a whole great deal maybe 3 times a year if I'm lucky. I don't deal with much snow out here in the south west. and being that the 265's are wider I might possibly rip my fender flares off right? :evil: another question what size width is the stock alloy that came with my LTD is it 8 inches also ?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 12:20 am 
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0311_DoC wrote:
tommudd wrote:
yes the 235-85s are a skinny tire would not work well at all on an 8 inch rim


Damm.. what to do. so if I go the 265/75 route is it really that bad? as far as the whole foot print thing. I don't wheel a whole great deal maybe 3 times a year if I'm lucky. I don't deal with much snow out here in the south west. and being that the 265's are wider I might possibly rip my fender flares off right? :evil: another question what size width is the stock alloy that came with my LTD is it 8 inches also ?


No, your stockers came with 16X7.0, I think? I’m not trying to make things difficult, but maybe I am……………anyway keep in mind that the Cragar Soft 8’s are like $40-$45 bucks per wheel.

I'll probably screw this up, but I think this is the correct backspacing:
15X7 Cragar Soft 8 wheels (4 inches of backspacing)
16X8 Mopar Rubicon Moab wheels (5 inches of backspacing)
16X7 Mopar Aluminum wheels(5.5 inches of backspacing)
17X7 Mopar Chrome Clad wheels (5.5 inches of backspacing)

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 12:28 am 
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
0311_DoC wrote:
tommudd wrote:
yes the 235-85s are a skinny tire would not work well at all on an 8 inch rim


Damm.. what to do. so if I go the 265/75 route is it really that bad? as far as the whole foot print thing. I don't wheel a whole great deal maybe 3 times a year if I'm lucky. I don't deal with much snow out here in the south west. and being that the 265's are wider I might possibly rip my fender flares off right? :evil: another question what size width is the stock alloy that came with my LTD is it 8 inches also ?


No, your stockers came with 16X7.0, I think? I’m not trying to make things difficult, but maybe I am……………anyway keep in mind that the Cragar Soft 8’s are like $40-$45 bucks per wheel.

I'll probably screw this up, but I think this is the correct backspacing:
15X7 Cragar Soft 8 wheels (4 inches of backspacing)
16X8 Mopar Rubicon Moab wheels (5 inches of backspacing)
16X7 Mopar Aluminum wheels(5.5 inches of backspacing)
17X7 Mopar Chrome Clad wheels (5.5 inches of backspacing)


ok if I put the 235's on my stock regular alloys, that would be ok as far as BS right? or do i want to stay closer to 4in BS?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 12:49 am 
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0311_DoC wrote:
dieselenthusiast wrote:
0311_DoC wrote:
tommudd wrote:
yes the 235-85s are a skinny tire would not work well at all on an 8 inch rim


Damm.. what to do. so if I go the 265/75 route is it really that bad? as far as the whole foot print thing. I don't wheel a whole great deal maybe 3 times a year if I'm lucky. I don't deal with much snow out here in the south west. and being that the 265's are wider I might possibly rip my fender flares off right? :evil: another question what size width is the stock alloy that came with my LTD is it 8 inches also ?


No, your stockers came with 16X7.0, I think? I’m not trying to make things difficult, but maybe I am……………anyway keep in mind that the Cragar Soft 8’s are like $40-$45 bucks per wheel.

I'll probably screw this up, but I think this is the correct backspacing:
15X7 Cragar Soft 8 wheels (4 inches of backspacing)
16X8 Mopar Rubicon Moab wheels (5 inches of backspacing)
16X7 Mopar Aluminum wheels(5.5 inches of backspacing)
17X7 Mopar Chrome Clad wheels (5.5 inches of backspacing)


ok if I put the 235's on my stock regular alloys, that would be ok as far as BS right? or do i want to stay closer to 4in BS?


Yes, that's what your Jeep came factory with (235's). For wheeling, idealistically you would want a 245,255,265 on a 7" rim with 4" of backspacing.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:00 am 
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
0311_DoC wrote:
dieselenthusiast wrote:
0311_DoC wrote:
tommudd wrote:
yes the 235-85s are a skinny tire would not work well at all on an 8 inch rim


Damm.. what to do. so if I go the 265/75 route is it really that bad? as far as the whole foot print thing. I don't wheel a whole great deal maybe 3 times a year if I'm lucky. I don't deal with much snow out here in the south west. and being that the 265's are wider I might possibly rip my fender flares off right? :evil: another question what size width is the stock alloy that came with my LTD is it 8 inches also ?


No, your stockers came with 16X7.0, I think? I’m not trying to make things difficult, but maybe I am……………anyway keep in mind that the Cragar Soft 8’s are like $40-$45 bucks per wheel.

I'll probably screw this up, but I think this is the correct backspacing:
15X7 Cragar Soft 8 wheels (4 inches of backspacing)
16X8 Mopar Rubicon Moab wheels (5 inches of backspacing)
16X7 Mopar Aluminum wheels(5.5 inches of backspacing)
17X7 Mopar Chrome Clad wheels (5.5 inches of backspacing)


ok if I put the 235's on my stock regular alloys, that would be ok as far as BS right? or do i want to stay closer to 4in BS?


Yes, that's what your Jeep came factory with (235's). For wheeling, idealistically you would want a 245,255,265 on a 7" rim with 4" of backspacing.


I was referring to the 235/85's on my stock alloys. man this is all confusing. ok so the optimum set up would be the 235/85's on a 16X7 wheel with 4" BS with the 4.10 gears ??? on my heavy stupid CRD :)

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:00 am 
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
0311_DoC wrote:
dieselenthusiast wrote:
0311_DoC wrote:
tommudd wrote:
yes the 235-85s are a skinny tire would not work well at all on an 8 inch rim


Damm.. what to do. so if I go the 265/75 route is it really that bad? as far as the whole foot print thing. I don't wheel a whole great deal maybe 3 times a year if I'm lucky. I don't deal with much snow out here in the south west. and being that the 265's are wider I might possibly rip my fender flares off right? :evil: another question what size width is the stock alloy that came with my LTD is it 8 inches also ?


No, your stockers came with 16X7.0, I think? I’m not trying to make things difficult, but maybe I am……………anyway keep in mind that the Cragar Soft 8’s are like $40-$45 bucks per wheel.

I'll probably screw this up, but I think this is the correct backspacing:
15X7 Cragar Soft 8 wheels (4 inches of backspacing)
16X8 Mopar Rubicon Moab wheels (5 inches of backspacing)
16X7 Mopar Aluminum wheels(5.5 inches of backspacing)
17X7 Mopar Chrome Clad wheels (5.5 inches of backspacing)


ok if I put the 235's on my stock regular alloys, that would be ok as far as BS right? or do i want to stay closer to 4in BS?


Yes, that's what your Jeep came factory with (235's). For wheeling, idealistically you would want a 245,255,265 on a 7" rim with 4" of backspacing.


times two

but if you like the Moabs and only go wheeling 3 or 4 times a year run them and just make sure you install good bumpstops, I am running 265-70s BFGs on Moabs now with enough bumpstop to keep it from ripping any flares off.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:09 am 
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Im sure by now you both know I am not mechanically knowledgeable. so since i have a heavy CRD with a 110# TR bumper and soon to add the M8000 winch, im sure i need to do clevis or some sort of add on up front. as far as the rear goes, how do i add or adjust the bumpstops? do I need to buy something to add? Yes I like my Moabs since I already own them :). so I might be better off getting the 265/75's then because of the wheel width.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:25 am 
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0311_DoC wrote:
Im sure by now you both know I am not mechanically knowledgeable. so since i have a heavy CRD with a 110# TR bumper and soon to add the M8000 winch, im sure i need to do clevis or some sort of add on up front. as far as the rear goes, how do i add or adjust the bumpstops? do I need to buy something to add? Yes I like my Moabs since I already own them :). so I might be better off getting the 265/75's then because of the wheel width.


At least you are smart enough to ask questions. :wink: I worry about the people who think they know it all and wonder why their LOAD E, 33 inch tire sounds like a freight train going down the road, and then they wonder why they just tore off their fender flare going over a speed bump. :shock: Anyway, if you like the Moabs and really want to use the them, then “YES” you can make adjustments to make them work. However, you will lose some flex by adding extra bumpstops if that is a concern for you. A 245 on a 7” rim will stuff inside the wheel well allowing for the best articulation and keeping to a lighter weight (smaller footprint) tire for fuel economy. A 245 on a 7” rim will give you more tire flex and the ability to air down. For obvious reasons, the 255 on a 7” rim will hold a tighter bead and have more sidewall flex and better for airing down.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:31 am 
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
0311_DoC wrote:
Im sure by now you both know I am not mechanically knowledgeable. so since i have a heavy CRD with a 110# TR bumper and soon to add the M8000 winch, im sure i need to do clevis or some sort of add on up front. as far as the rear goes, how do i add or adjust the bumpstops? do I need to buy something to add? Yes I like my Moabs since I already own them :). so I might be better off getting the 265/75's then because of the wheel width.


At least you are smart enough to ask questions. :wink: I worry about the people who think they know it all and wonder why their LOAD E, 33 inch tire sounds like a freight train going down the road, and then they wonder why they just tore off their fender flare going over a speed bump. :shock: Anyway, if you like the Moabs and really want to use the them, then “YES” you can make adjustments to make them work. However, you will lose some flex by adding extra bumpstops if that is a concern for you. A 245 on a 7” rim will stuff inside the wheel well allowing for the best articulation and keeping to a lighter weight (smaller footprint) tire for fuel economy. A 245 on a 7” rim will give you more tire flex and the ability to air down. For obvious reasons, the 255 on a 7” rim will hold a tighter bead and have more sidewall flex and better for airing down.


I have been running the Moabs with the 245/75's for a while now. that's why I asked earlier in the thread about the added height of the 235/85's or the 265/75's. and then the mention of upgrading the gears to the 4.10 came up as well for better MPG. i just don't know what to do. i want it to perform well off road but i would like to function well also. frustated :evil:

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:32 am 
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0311_DoC wrote:

I have been running the Moabs with the 245/75's for a while now. that's why I asked earlier in the thread about the added height of the 235/85's or the 265/75's. and then the mention of upgrading the gears to the 4.10 came up as well for better MPG. i just don't know what to do. i want it to perform well off road but i would like to function well also. frustated :evil:


Now you have to decide what type of tire you want. Do you want an A/T or a M/T? Do you want a 235 or a 245 on a stock rim? You can always add spacers to provide better backspacing and run a 255 on your stock rims. If you already know that you want Moabs, then you need to decide if you want a 245, 255, or 265. I have your same problem and that’s how I ended up with 3 sets of wheels (stock wheels, Moabs, and Cragars). I like choices…………..

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:40 am 
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
0311_DoC wrote:

I have been running the Moabs with the 245/75's for a while now. that's why I asked earlier in the thread about the added height of the 235/85's or the 265/75's. and then the mention of upgrading the gears to the 4.10 came up as well for better MPG. i just don't know what to do. i want it to perform well off road but i would like to function well also. frustated :evil:


Now you have to decide what type of tire you want. Do you want an A/T or a M/T? Do you want a 235 or a 245 on a stock rim? You can always add spacers to provide better backspacing and run a 255 on your stock rims. If you already know that you want Moabs, then you need to decide if you want a 245, 255, or 265. I have your same problem and that’s how I ended up with 3 sets of wheels (stock wheels, Moabs, and Cragars). I like choices…………..


well mainly right now I want my offroad set up to be answered or helped with. that includes the the proper fixins in the suspension etc. and I would assume that would be MT tires. im not overly concerned with the non trail version, as I said I still have my stock alloys that I can put a good set of AT's on for around town and what not. but I want the biggest tire I can get on their to help with the height and making it look good but again I want function as well.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:52 am 
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so you are like the rest of us...

YOU WANT IT ALL :lol: :lol: :lol:

why not run the Moabs on the street and the stockers for trail use? That way the bumpstop issue will not be as bad. I have ran 255-70s on Moabs and have been twisted up pretty good but the flare was also scraping the sidewall clean thats how close it was The 265-70 I have now would rip the flares off if I didn't have extra bumpstops on ( hockey pucks )

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:58 am 
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tommudd wrote:
so you are like the rest of us...

YOU WANT IT ALL :lol: :lol: :lol:

why not run the Moabs on the street and the stockers for trail use? That way the bumpstop issue will not be as bad. I have ran 255-70s on Moabs and have been twisted up pretty good but the flare was also scraping the sidewall clean thats how close it was The 265-70 I have now would rip the flares off if I didn't have extra bumpstops on ( hockey pucks )


I agree with TOM. Here’s the thing I ran into, and maybe this is why I’m somewhat overly involved in this thread, but this is what I discovered: In order to run a lighter weight tire, I needed a narrow tire. Due to towing my camper, I really needed to run a LT Load C tire. As with any type of heavy towing, regearing to 4:10’s seemed logical. Once I arrive to my destination, I will unhook the camper and be ready to hit the trails. So now I’m needing a tire that will do both jobs (towing and off-roading). There really is no tire designed to go off-road and built for towing, however the A/T tires are as close as it gets for a dual purpose. So I went with a fairly aggressive A/T with a 16/32 tread depth. I chose a 6 ply tire because I wanted sidewall protection and sidewall flex. And finally, the tire I chose is as lightweight as the P-rated tire. The LT-rated over the P-rated will give me the strength, durability, and performance on the road whereas the narrower rim size will allow me to air down for light duty off-roading.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 2:09 am 
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tommudd wrote:
so you are like the rest of us...

YOU WANT IT ALL :lol: :lol: :lol:

why not run the Moabs on the street and the stockers for trail use? That way the bumpstop issue will not be as bad. I have ran 255-70s on Moabs and have been twisted up pretty good but the flare was also scraping the sidewall clean thats how close it was The 265-70 I have now would rip the flares off if I didn't have extra bumpstops on ( hockey pucks )


LOL... well my Moabs are already rock rashed from being up in Moab. and as I said I am DUMB to the hole hockey puck/bump stop issue. I guess I don't understand it all

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 1:31 am 
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So any hoo where is the best and or cheapest place to find soft 8's ?

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 8:36 pm 
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0311_DoC wrote:
So any hoo where is the best and or cheapest place to find soft 8's ?


I bought mine from Summit Racing, you may want to try 4wheel parts also. I went with the 15X7 with 4" of backspacing. Are you wanting the 15's or 16's? 15's will give you a lot of tire options and is probably a better rim size for off-roading. I've heard that 15's are perfect for a 31-32 inch tire.

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