Warranty finished, changes coming...

GypsyCRD · **Posted:** Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:01 pm

Just a friendly discussion about my 06 that I want to improve on. We rolled over to 36k a couple of weeks ago and now I'm on my own. So it's time for some changes. Ive been a rather quiet member here for a while and have been reading up and searching on the upgrades everyone is doing and here's what I'm planning: Filter head was replaced at 35k and still is getting about 6 pumps worth of air fairly quick so I need to add a lift pump, I want to do something about the EGR and may just do the ORM for now till I can buy one of the kits or maybe a Scangauge II, cat needs gutted, I have cleaned my MAP. Eventually would like to add a couple of inches of lift and 245's. Anybody think of anything else?? Thanks for your input.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:06 pm

I skipped the lift and went strait to 245/75/16s.

Turbo hoses would be a good one to replace soon.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:22 pm

Gauges are common sense.
With the fuel cooler, I can tell the difference, even in Illinois, no fuel heat up power loss. It is a cheap~$30.00 upgrade, if you go for the low cost transmission cooler.
http://picasaweb.google.com/warp2diesel ... uelCooler#

Another upgrade would be to get rid of that tractor weight welded into the exhaust system, I am going to a MagniFlow when the weather warms up. I got my 2 1/2" 304 stainless steel on the web from direct from ACE, much better price by cutting out the middleman.

GypsyCRD · **Posted:** Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:31 pm

I kinda lean more towards efficiency instead of power so wouldn't a fuel cooler= more power and less MPG?

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:11 pm

All the fuel cooler does is keep the fuel from getting too hot. Every engine has a sweet spot in temperature where both the power and fuel economy are optimum. A fuel cooler (as does your intercooler) greatly expands the sweet spot. When you climb a moderate hill with the fuel cooler you will hang on longer with out down shifting as fast since the ECM does not cut back your torque due to having hot fuel. Premature down shifting wastes fuel. Unlike some of hop up resistors that lie to the ECM, with the fuel cooler, you are not lieing to the ECM, just supplying the engine with fuel that is close to livable ambient temperatures and the ECM responds accordingly.
The Bosch Diesel Engine Management book recommends fuel coolers for optimum running, to be honest, I hung mine on before I read the book.

Your right foot is the only thing that will decrease the fuel economy.

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2009 11:16 am

Correct - as with politics, same with turboDiesels: power corrupts - absolute power corrupts absolutely - otherwise known as happy feet................

blue94yj · **Joined:** Wed Jun 27, 2007 7:52 am **Posts:** 20

In regaurds to the fuel cooler how does it effect things when the out side temp gets low?

Charlie

UFO · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2009 2:20 pm

Replace your intercooler hoses with Samco units, and install a Provent type oil condensor on the CCV.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2009 2:42 pm

blue94yj wrote:

In regaurds to the fuel cooler how does it effect things when the out side temp gets low?

Charlie

Same effect, even more so, with the fuel being too cold as too hot - just think of Goldilocks and the Three Bears regarding the porridge. This beast wants to see it "just right" for optimum power and economy.

Fortunately, just right seems to be a range from 80 to 120 F.

Below the 70's ambient temps, I keep the fuel cooler covered. A couple pieces of cardboard tystrapped over it, or a simple 3 way valve where you can bypass it in cold weather. Or you could get fancy and rig up a thermostat and an electric 3 way valve to automatically regulate temperature.

As far as judging fuel temp, just hold your hand on the filter - lukewarm would be around 100F (body temp 98.6), cool to warm would probably be in the range. "Cold metal" feeling to too hot to comfortably hold your hand on for any length of time most likely outside the range.

Especially in regards to too cold, fuel economy on this beast will drop like a stone when you're too far outside the range.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2009 2:58 pm

I'd skip the Scangauge II and go with some actual gauges, unless they've gotten around the lockup problem - SGII would simply just freeze up after a varying period of time, due to the way DCX configured the software and data bus arrangement on the vehicle. There was also the problem of the SGII putting out "noise" on the data bus, causing the TCM to lose signal and reboot itself - ie, tranny drops completely out of gear at 70 mph on the interstate - NOT a fun experience.

GypsyCRD · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2009 5:45 pm

Well I was mostly wanting a Scangauge to read/clear codes. Is there anything cheaper aout there that will do the same thing? As long as I can diagnose it I feel I can fix most anything on this Jeep.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2009 6:40 pm

GypsyCRD wrote:

Well I was mostly wanting a Scangauge to read/clear codes. Is there anything cheaper aout there that will do the same thing? As long as I can diagnose it I feel I can fix most anything on this Jeep.

......Harbor Freight, they are no ScanGuageII but they work!

Even if you end up getting a Super Laptop Program with Blue Tooth Interface, having a cheap scanner in the Jeep can be very handy.

My wife's TDI had the check engine light on and every time I cleared it with my Ross Tech VagCom, the light would come back on. I hooked up the Harbor Freight cheapie and it cleared the CEL.

alrhall · **Posted:** Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:46 pm

GypsyCRD Said
"Well I was mostly wanting a Scangauge to read/clear codes. Is there anything cheaper aout there that will do the same thing? As long as I can diagnose it I feel I can fix most anything on this Jeep."

That's what I thought.
Cread@r
Cen-Tech 94217
Scangauge II

I can read the codes.
I can reset the codes

What I can't do is translate the codes

P1189 Oil Pressure Switch ??? (Comes on at low speed 23 -28 mph part throttle.)
P0698 Sensor C Ref Volt Circ Low ?? ( Comes on when turning left and the Electronic throttle light comes on at the same time ..Sometimes)

If I leave the Creader plugged in it throws codes for the ABS.

Of COURSE all of this, and the torque converter lockup shudder at 55, started a week after the warranty ran out.

Does anyone speak DLC CRD OBD II ??
Or is it a dead language?

onthehunt · **Posted:** Fri Apr 24, 2009 2:07 am

Disable/bypass your egr system first. Unless you live in the desert/tow a lot, save the fuel cooler for last.

mackruss · **Posted:** Mon Apr 27, 2009 4:48 am

GypsyCRD wrote:

Just a friendly discussion about my 06 that I want to improve on. We rolled over to 36k a couple of weeks ago and now I'm on my own. So it's time for some changes. Ive been a rather quiet member here for a while and have been reading up and searching on the upgrades everyone is doing and here's what I'm planning: Filter head was replaced at 35k and still is getting about 6 pumps worth of air fairly quick so I need to add a lift pump, I want to do something about the EGR and may just do the ORM for now till I can buy one of the kits or maybe a Scangauge II, cat needs gutted, I have cleaned my MAP. Eventually would like to add a couple of inches of lift and 245's. Anybody think of anything else?? Thanks for your input.

I would extend the warranty plan and ride the crap out of it and then punt it.

Jeep deserve to be in the position they find themselves in, it's all their own doing. Attitude and crap service and the audacity to ask our minister of finance for assistance.

Shame, they forget about the good times though and ripping me off with my diff when it was still under warranty.

CRD Joe · **Posted:** Mon Apr 27, 2009 9:55 am

warp2diesel wrote:

Gauges are common sense.
With the fuel cooler, I can tell the difference, even in Illinois, no fuel heat up power loss. It is a cheap~$30.00 upgrade, if you go for the low cost transmission cooler.
http://picasaweb.google.com/warp2diesel ... uelCooler#

Another upgrade would be to get rid of that tractor weight welded into the exhaust system, I am going to a MagniFlow when the weather warms up. I got my 2 1/2" 304 stainless steel on the web from direct from ACE, much better price by cutting out the middleman.

While Im a noob, and I don't even own a CRD yet I plan to very soon. So yesterday I bought a CAT2 filter kit from Cowcatcher. I also got the parts numbers from ATX for the filter head upgrade and I ordered them. I bought the parts for an elephant hose. I bought an Amsoil Eaa air filter and oil filter. I bought an air power systems snorkle (I like having the air I take far off the ground) When I get the truck home Im going to install all that stuff, get a FrankenLift 235/85/16 tires and regear her to 4.10 and throw in some ARB's. Among other things.

GypsyCRD · **Posted:** Mon May 11, 2009 10:16 pm

Well, I am on my way to a happier engine. I did the ORM and EHM this week along with an air filter and oil change.
We are headed to FL next week and I wanted to finish as much as I could. Maybe I'll have time to gut that cat before we leave. It looks like it might be hard to get all of the platinum out being so deep from the muffler side.

CRDMiller · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2009 12:18 am

Gypsy, it takes time, but it's not that hard, just beat the snot out of it, crank it up, floor it, repeat. I think i spent about an hour on it. Then i drove it with the flange open up a nice incline and checked it a few times.

Joe, as a crd owner with 3.73 gearing (stock) and 32 inch rubber, you dont want, or need, to re gear. even if your towing, your going to be out of od anyway so your looking at what,

Max tq is at ~ 1800 rpm , witch imho is to low of a speed to keep trans pump pressure high, i think it does better at around 1900 to 2200 (towing)

3 gear at 2200 rpm is 56 MPH (locked) your going to be like 2300 unlocked
4 gear at 1900 rpm is 65 MPH <-- your pulling a 4% grade @ 22 psi and 4400lb <-- this is PERFECT
5th is 1700 rpm at 65 mph this is imho to low to tow anything above 16 psi or so (i get a load of shudder here) <-- this is great economy, if terrain allows

Also might i add that 2100 rpm in FOURTH and locked is SEVENTY MPH
You can easily hold high grades at this rpm and loaded.

1900 rpm with near stock rubber (29.3) is 66 mph in fifth.

Unloaded, i cruise up ridiculous grades in top gear at 65 at 1700 rpm. It's excellent.

I think 3.73 is great. And when i said third gear, I mean third prime.

Shoes are funny because their size changes based on load and speed, and different rubber has different characteristics. Also temp has an effect on it. It's not usually significant were talking 40 rpm difference (for us) between mfg with the same diameter max

check out this Handy Calculator

I already have the proper ratios and so forth plugged in, however 3rd is third down and fourth is third prime fifth is fourth sixth is fifth.

As noted it's not entierly accurate, bfg says thier 235/85/r16's in km2's are exactly 32 inches, however i am exactly 1709 at 65 in fifth and this calculator says otherwise. I have also had other calculators show it as 1750 rpm. It's not, it's 1709. This calculator attempts to fix some of the problems with these types of mathmatics but it over corrects imho.

bottom line is 4.1 gets you 65 at 2k rpm in fifth (really sixth), 3.73 does the same in FOURTH (really fifth) the only thing you gain is interesting characteristics in 1-3rd (really 1-4) gear, easier burn outs, and crappy unladen economy.

Now, if your crd runs like crap, i don't know, when i bought mine there's no way it would hold gears with stock rubber on things it destroys now. via inmotion II and no muffler/empty cat, etc etc.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2009 2:00 am

Living in the Rockies, I found it necessary to re-gear with my 32". I had to turn off OD every grade had to climb when I had the 3.73 (which sux for fuel economy). Plus the loss of torque was a super bummer off road in deep mud or rock climbing.

The 4.10s plus my Edge EZ Module turned my KJ into the sexual tyrannosaurus it is.

Go ahead and put the 4.10's in... It's what all the cool kids are doing!

CRDMiller · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2009 3:26 am

What the heck is the difference in fuel economy in fourth gear, at 2k vs fith gear at 2k? at the SAME SPEED? NONE IF the fuel rate, (rpm's and boost pressures) are the same, as well as speed, no difference at all in mpg. What you CANT do is go into Fifth at 1700 rpm on the flats, and 24/7 when un loaded. (not with 4.10)

If by cool kids, you mean people who only have a four speed, and who dont have metric tons of tq, then yes, your correct. (gassers, yuck)

YES you have to turn od off. OH NOES!

If your to lazy to push a button.... and in most cases after grade hunting logic kicks in and adapts, it will shift there and hold it, automatically....

you can have od off and sit at 2k rpm all day and still beat the revs of 4.10's using 4/5th because 4.10's in fith(really sixth) at 2k is only ....? (32 inch) ... drumroll ....... 66 mph.

Having a (numerically) higher final ratio is usualy good for towing and bad for mpg. The problem here is, your not going to be in fith gear ANYWAY!! you can get the same ratio in FOURTH with 3.73, it costs nothing.

I'm not saying it's USELESS to go to 4.1 i'm saying, why? congratulations your 1-2-3 (actual) is faster, you can accelerate faster.

I think the 4.10s are better for lower speeds, obviously, but that's kinda defeated by the multiple second gears.

You will be consistently in fourth (fifth really) gear. And you will occasionaly be in fifth (sixth really) if you haul booty, you will be in fifth (sixth) Can cant get worse mpg by using 3.73 and 32's vs 4.1 and 32's at highway speeds. Your potential trouble zone is when you have to maintain speed below 50 mph, your looking at unlocked tc 23-2600 revs, all you can do is floor it through it. (assuming like, 4-5k lb towing and >12% grades (it happens) and you have to keep up with traffic. (slow) or the turns are too tight to maintain lockup in fourth (fifth actual)

At least try towing your loads with the stock gear sets, with od off.

And on top of all of that. Your juice box is not even close to an inmotion tune. With egr disabled, and the fcv butterfly removed, no muffler or cat, there is no obstruction. There is no comparison. it's not 9000% better but it is unequivocally 10% better. Clean the crap out of your fcv elbow and your cac. Add a lift pump. Now your talking.

Do you use the crd solely for towing > 3k lb? AND live on a vertical cliff? 4.1's are an ok idea. If you have 32's. (go get a 1500 or 2500)

It's your jeep, you do what you like, and be happy with it. I'm just saying that there are other options. 4.1 ratio is not required.

Spend your money not on gears, but a clean intake and exhaust.'

If your really into towing, keep the stock size rubber.
Or buy a more appropriate tow vehicle. More than likely whatever your towing and however infrequently your going to tow it, will be more than fine with stock gearing and 32's. IF not better.

Warranty finished, changes coming...

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