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 Post subject: Don't waste money on extended bumpstops with an OME kit.
PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 11:11 am 
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The reason I am posting this is because in past posts I have read, some people are installing the extended bumpstops with the OME kit. it appears that the idea behind it is so the coil won't stack and lose it properties. If you install the parts how OME intends their kit to be used, you do not need to by extended bump stops. the internal hydraulic bump stops work as designed. There is no need to second guess OME or Alljs. It is a total waste of money. You will end up with less suspension travel, probably closer to the stock travel. The ride will be better than stock(better quality parts) and you will gain clearance but won't get the benefit of the extra travel. There is no need for cheap insurance, big waste.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 11:17 am 
Like I said in the other thread...if anything is changed other than just the coil or shock, you DO need the bumpstops.

Do some geometry and you'll figure it out:)


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 11:21 am 
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You need to reread my post. What part of using the kit how the manufacturer intended it to be used don't you understand?

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 Post subject: Re: Don't waste money on extended bumpstops with an OME kit.
PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 11:29 am 
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trac95ker wrote:
The reason I am posting this is because in past posts I have read, some people are installing the extended bumpstops with the OME kit. it appears that the idea behind it is so the coil won't stack and lose it properties. If you install the parts how OME intends their kit to be used, you do not need to by extended bump stops. the internal hydraulic bump stops work as designed. There is no need to second guess OME or Alljs. It is a total waste of money. You will end up with less suspension travel, probably closer to the stock travel. The ride will be better than stock(better quality parts) and you will gain clearance but won't get the benefit of the extra travel. There is no need for cheap insurance, big waste.
Sure you may not need the extended bumbstops but when you lift a vehicle you tend to want to put bigger tires on.Those bigger tires need to be controlled so as not to rip vehicle parts off which is where extended bumpstops come into play.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 11:38 am 
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i totally agree, it looks like pthe first thing that rubs is the pich weld. The bump stop doesn't help that. again, OME designed their kit to be used with a certain size tire. You start putting to large of a tire on which gives more traction which can result in broken R&P, housings and cv shafts. The size tire you speak of is larger than OME intended.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 11:49 am 
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Well the more common lift seems to be OME springs on Rancho struts
anyone know if Rancho has a internal bump stop?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 11:51 am 
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trac95ker wrote:
i totally agree, it looks like pthe first thing that rubs is the pich weld. The bump stop doesn't help that. again, OME designed their kit to be used with a certain size tire. You start putting to large of a tire on which gives more traction which can result in broken R&P, housings and cv shafts. The size tire you speak of is larger than OME intended.
Even if you don't use extended bumpstops with the tire size specified you can/will tend to rip the rear fender flares off while flexing offroad.Like said extended bumpstops are cheap insurance for a OME lift,more so if you use the HD coils and no heavy bumpers which will net you almost 3" of lift alone with no clevis lift or extra rear isolators.Bumpstops are needed for OTT to keep the struts from destroying themselves,a must for larger lifts also to control tire upward travel.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:03 pm 
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This then only goes for those who use the full OME designed shock and coil setup.

And so not for the gasser Frankenlift.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:10 pm 
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Again, OME kits when used properly, not how you are describing (HD, no bumper no winch) with the correct rim offset is fine. When you get 3" of lift from an OME kit, you are not using it how they intended it to be used. You are trading 1.5" of height for 1.5" of less suspension droop. Suspension droop is just as important as ground clearance if not more. You just reduced the suspensions ability to keep the wheel in contact with the ground when coming off a bump or an angle. With the HD spring and HD strut vs MD parts, it now takes more effort to move the suspension so it is moving less over an identical obstacle for a given speed. I did not post anything about OTT.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:34 pm 
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:? Is it me or is the LOST site getting very angry the past week? It seems every post I read has far more.... agression than others? Maybe I'm reading it all wrong, or maybe we all need to go out, get a little mud on the tire, and loosen up those sphincter :)

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:38 pm 
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for the $45 it costs for bump stops Im not too worried about it plus it helps keep my fender flares on. 8)

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:42 pm 
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I'm pretty sure Troy has the bump stops in here
Image
And yellowcoyote has them here too
Image.... So.... what are you talking about again? This is deffinitly more than stock flex...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:44 pm 
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ObiHann wrote:
I'm pretty sure Troy has the bump stops in here
Image
And yellowcoyote has them here too
Image.... So.... what are you talking about again? This is deffinitly more than stock flex...
I do have extended front and rear bumpstops,3" for the rear and 2" in the front,and I don't rip no flares off crawling on the rocks.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:51 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
have extended front and rear bumpstops,3" for the rear and 2" in the front,and I don't rip no flares off crawling on the rocks.


And for the record :roll: With these extended bumpstops.... Do you find that you have lost any flex, like some people are saying? :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:57 pm 
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My main point about the internal bump stops was that they work just like the millions of motorcycle forks out there. It is proven technology.. Ome would never design a faulty bump stop in the strut because the coil springs would bind or stack. Then they would have to warranty the coils. Why would they want to do that? It would also give them a bad reputation and cost them alot of money and lost business.

Again, I agree that once you start running larger tires with different rims the OME kit won't work without additional mods(hammering pinch welds, bumpstops) Then the larger tires open you up to a lot more issues that may have to be addressed, limiting turning radius, larger cv shafts, steel r&p housing, gear reduction, larger brakes, HD u-joints, etc. I have already been down this road with my tracker. Finally I got fed up with braking various parts, cut the entire suspension off and started from scratch. SAS, Bilstein 14"coilovers spidertrax sidewinder, d-44, 4 link front and rear, 35" BF Goodrich krawlers low gears etc.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:59 pm 
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ObiHann wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
have extended front and rear bumpstops,3" for the rear and 2" in the front,and I don't rip no flares off crawling on the rocks.


And for the record :roll: With these extended bumpstops.... Do you find that you have lost any flex, like some people are saying? :wink:
I'd say no,just limits upward travel so I don't rip flares off.
Image

This pic I'm sitting on the front bumpstop preventing flare removal.
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 1:03 pm 
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this is the same guy that said that the OME HD springs will ride stiff as hell :? :roll:

i needed 3" bumpstops on the rear of mine, because everytime i flex the rear suspension, it would pop off the bottom half of the flares on the doors. 2" bumpstops still rubbed, 3" cured it, doesnt rub at all now

things have been tried and tested on this site, on our personal vehicles, we know what works and what doesnt work. we dont put extra bumpstops on our jeeps for no reason...

and like above ^^^^, the bumpstops prevent too much uptravel, it doesnt affect downtravel, maybe some, if you get real scientific about it, but even at that, i dont think it does

turning radius on mine hasnt changed, it rubs at FULL lock when the wheel is cut, but not enough to limit turning radius
nobody makes steel housing for the front
nobody makes larger cv's either

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Last edited by RAYMAN975 on Thu Feb 12, 2009 1:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 1:07 pm 
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Obihann, I am referring to the struts and a certain tire size. Once you go beyond the intention of OME (large tires, different rims), all bets are off. Look at the drawing in the link below. If you focus on the last 2 pics, you can see how uptravel is limited with the bump stop. That equals less suspension travel.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... 789#410789

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 1:12 pm 
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yea but what good is MORE suspension travel when its going to be stacking the coils, or ripping off fender flares and tearing up your tires from rubbing on inner wheelwells?

more travel isnt always better, these arent competition rock buggies, we are willing to give up and inch or 2 of up-travel to keep our fenderflares intact and keep our coils from stacking

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 1:17 pm 
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I would look at that pic again.

You lose nothing. You have the same 6" as in pic 1.

You want to add 2,5" to your wheel travel...:D

Anyway, you are right, even OME said so themselfs.

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Last edited by tonycrd on Thu Feb 12, 2009 1:22 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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