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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 8:19 pm 
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Just bought my rear u-joint from NAPA it has a zerk. Part# P354
I'll hopefully be installing it this weekend along with the rear pinion seal.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 9:02 pm 
Just one?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2009 12:57 am 
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I would go back and get another one and do both while you are at it, not much more time and then you don't have to worry about either one of them :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 9:17 am 
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ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:
Just one?

Forgot to mention I already had the font one. But being that the thread was about the Liberty’s rear didn’t bother to mention it. Either way I didn’t get to replace anything this weekend.

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02 Black UNlimited Edition 4X4 Select Trac Liberty Towing/Off Road Packages 245/75/16 on black Moabs
RL diff cover/Super Skink sliders, Rusty's 2.5" Coil Lift w/ clevis lift, Roof basket W/Hella FF75...
On the prowl for an M416/M101/M100 trailer
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:28 pm 
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Replaced my rear u-joint the other day and it was NAPA part #PUJ 280. It is a greasable joint but does not come with a zerk fitting but instead has some sort of near-flush fitting that takes a flat screwdriver to install. Anybody ever see one like this? Not sure how a grease gun works with these (it doesn't). Should it be replaced with a Zerk? Also, since I removed the driveshaft to do this job, I had to cut off the 2 metal band clamps on rubber boot on the slip joint. Can plastic tie-wraps be used successfully or should I go looking for the metal ones?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:38 pm 
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liberty2.8 wrote:
Replaced my rear u-joint the other day and it was NAPA part #PUJ 280. It is a greasable joint but does not come with a zerk fitting but instead has some sort of near-flush fitting that takes a flat screwdriver to install. Anybody ever see one like this? Not sure how a grease gun works with these (it doesn't). Should it be replaced with a Zerk? Also, since I removed the driveshaft to do this job, I had to cut off the 2 metal band clamps on rubber boot on the slip joint. Can plastic tie-wraps be used successfully or should I go looking for the metal ones?


You would need a needle that attaches to your grease gun. You could replace it with a “generic” zerk so you don’t have buy the needle. The needle runs for about $6 for two, NAPA does carry them.

I would look for metal zip tie.

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"I'm the guy who does his job, you must be the other guy"
02 Black UNlimited Edition 4X4 Select Trac Liberty Towing/Off Road Packages 245/75/16 on black Moabs
RL diff cover/Super Skink sliders, Rusty's 2.5" Coil Lift w/ clevis lift, Roof basket W/Hella FF75...
On the prowl for an M416/M101/M100 trailer
L.O.S.T. Member 2877


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:21 pm 
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Quote:
You would need a needle that attaches to your grease gun. You could replace it with a “generic” zerk so you don’t have buy the needle. The needle runs for about $6 for two, NAPA does carry them.

I would look for metal zip tie.

Thanks for the info. I think I will go with the needle you mentioned, I would guess the reason for the low profile flush fitting on the rear u-joint could be for off-road action. This u-joint has the fitting in the endcap instead of closer to the center. A fitting sticking out of the end of cap could easily get knocked off. At least a zerk is sealed, the small hole in the needle-type fitting is not.

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