Would these sound similar if they were starting to go? I hear a cyclical grinding/wooshing noise coming from the rear. Kinda like woo woo woo woo woo woo woo...... that gets faster/louder with speed. Got the KJ with 50k miles, now has 95k miles and never done the rear brakes. They seem to stop fine and parking brake works great still.

Im gonna crack into them maybe this afternoon when i get outta here if there is light still.

Im hoping the brakes are going and its not a wheel hub/diff/pinion bearing/tranny/anything else...

Any suggestions?

_________________
Pre-Lowered 02 Liberty
2.5" Rustys Coil w/ Ranchos in the rear.
ARB, OME927's, 1/4 strut plate and Als Gen 4.5 Uppers in the front.
Flowmaster Super 40 Series (GONE, SO QUIET!)
245/75/16 Kumho KL-78 w/ Spidertraxxxxx
Ripped out the plastic inner wheel liners
Herculined ALLLL over.....

sounds like ya need to check the rear brakes

or maybe someone ninja installed these on your jeep


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgRoM4kf8gI

_________________
03 Renegade (Black)
177k miles 3.7L gas - 45RFE
Command Trac / 4.10s
Lift: ft. 790+ rr. JBA4+
The last of the TrailReady Front&Rear Bumpers and TR Rock Rails
Jarhead Offroad light covers
31x10.5R15 RedLetter Grabbers on Blackrock Dunes
L.O.S.T #KD098632

Just went out there and first of all saw a small (3/16") split in the diff breather hose right above the clamp on the axle. Fixed that with a new hose. Going to drain the diff this weekend and hope that its not full of water and thats where the noise was coming from.

Second of all i jacked the car up and started tugging on the wheel and noticed that at least the drivers side wheel actually has about 1/16 - 1/8 inch of play in and out, as in parallel with the axle... is this bad bad bad? I took the tire off to confirm what i was feeling. I can def pull the drum and wheel spacer (Spidertrax) in and out that little bit.

There was no wobble type movement in any other direction.

Josh

_________________
Pre-Lowered 02 Liberty
2.5" Rustys Coil w/ Ranchos in the rear.
ARB, OME927's, 1/4 strut plate and Als Gen 4.5 Uppers in the front.
Flowmaster Super 40 Series (GONE, SO QUIET!)
245/75/16 Kumho KL-78 w/ Spidertraxxxxx
Ripped out the plastic inner wheel liners
Herculined ALLLL over.....

you will have some play in the axle ( in and out) nothing to worry about unless its excessive.
Check your U Joints as well, bet they are dry as a popcorn *#@* sounds like that may be waht it is and remember a u joint does not have to feel loose to be bad, they basically rust up and freeze solid . Drive 4 or 5 miles and then touch each rear u joint , watch though they can get really hot if bad

_________________
MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Ahhhhh cool. Good suggestion. Ill try that now....
How hot is hot though. I would imagine that even new u joint bearings will get hot from normal friction? I had the rear end in the air sunday and had my GF in the car accelerating and I couldnt hear the noise. Could that be cause the rear was drooped and not stuffed up?

_________________
Pre-Lowered 02 Liberty
2.5" Rustys Coil w/ Ranchos in the rear.
ARB, OME927's, 1/4 strut plate and Als Gen 4.5 Uppers in the front.
Flowmaster Super 40 Series (GONE, SO QUIET!)
245/75/16 Kumho KL-78 w/ Spidertraxxxxx
Ripped out the plastic inner wheel liners
Herculined ALLLL over.....

Hot enough it will burn your hand almost!

and yes it may of put it on a different angle so would not make the noise

_________________
MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Ok cool, could i spray something into the u joint bearings to temporarily quiet them for troubleshooting purposes or are they sealed tight. Must be water/spray tight I suppose, dumb question.

Ill go check now

_________________
Pre-Lowered 02 Liberty
2.5" Rustys Coil w/ Ranchos in the rear.
ARB, OME927's, 1/4 strut plate and Als Gen 4.5 Uppers in the front.
Flowmaster Super 40 Series (GONE, SO QUIET!)
245/75/16 Kumho KL-78 w/ Spidertraxxxxx
Ripped out the plastic inner wheel liners
Herculined ALLLL over.....

sealed tight no "magic juice" to spray on them to quiet them down

_________________
MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Went about 3 miles. front and rear u joints cold on driveshaft... rear diff cool/warm not hot.
Im thinking brakes or wheel bearing or maybe even tire. They are in good shape but a few years old now. Ill rotate tomorrow and see what happens.

The noise sounds like a light grinding noise almost like brakes but it doesnt change pitch when i pull the ebrake or brake normal or shift into neutral. Only speed seems to affect it.

_________________
Pre-Lowered 02 Liberty
2.5" Rustys Coil w/ Ranchos in the rear.
ARB, OME927's, 1/4 strut plate and Als Gen 4.5 Uppers in the front.
Flowmaster Super 40 Series (GONE, SO QUIET!)
245/75/16 Kumho KL-78 w/ Spidertraxxxxx
Ripped out the plastic inner wheel liners
Herculined ALLLL over.....

I'd be checking the condition of the rear diff fluid ASAP.More likely sounds like a pinion bearing going out.At 95,000 miles you should not need new rear shoes yet unless they have been neglected,and since the noise is not effected by braking it's not your brakes.A bad axle bearing is almost always has a oil leak also,see any gear oil dripping down the back of either backing plates?

what type of fluid condition would indicate a bad pinion bearing? metalized?
would it leak at the backing plate on the backside (inside) or in the drum area? I see no fluid at all there.

how bad to change that bearing? so many probs with this stupid thing lately... really considering selling.

_________________
Pre-Lowered 02 Liberty
2.5" Rustys Coil w/ Ranchos in the rear.
ARB, OME927's, 1/4 strut plate and Als Gen 4.5 Uppers in the front.
Flowmaster Super 40 Series (GONE, SO QUIET!)
245/75/16 Kumho KL-78 w/ Spidertraxxxxx
Ripped out the plastic inner wheel liners
Herculined ALLLL over.....

If the diff fluid is sparkly you got some bad wear going on somewhere,try grabbing the pinion yoke and try moving it side to side,up and down.If there is movement it's the pinion bearing.Unless you know how to properly install/setup new gears I'd leave having the pinion bearing replaced by a pro,looking at about $200-$400 in labor and might as well get a master install kit and replace all the bearings and seals while they have it apart.

For a axle bearing it's alot easier but you will need a axle bearing puller,can be rented form auto zone or advance auto.As far as the leak it may or may not leak but 90% of the ones I've replaced have had a leak,and they can leak on the back side of the backing plate or come out the bottom depending on how the brakes are setup.Cost is less then $50 for parts and takes about 1 hour to do,you will need new gear oil since the rear cover must be removed to pull the axle out.If it is a axle bearing you need to measure the axle where the bearing sits and make sure it is with in specs,if not you will need a new axle also.A worn axle in that spot will cause that new bearing to fail real fast,seen it happen in less then 1mile driven.


Not to single you out but seams like some lacking maintenance could be to blame for a sudden rash of major problems.Even the best vehicles and parts will fail after so much time of neglect.

Ok thanks, ill check that stuff out. Pretty sure i did shake the yolk this past weekend and it was solid. My first thought on this was the u-joint so i would have grabbed the yolk as well.
Ill check the fluid sunday i guess while i replace the axle bearing. Measure the axle shaft where the bearing sits because it will be worn and smaller diameter from the bearing freezing and spinning on the shaft instead of the races spinning?
To get the axle out I just have to pop the c-clip in the diff and then unbolt at the wheel end and pull out right?

Autozone has Timkins http://tinyurl.com/c8pald

I should prob replace the seal while in there too right? Its only a couple bucks.

As far as your maintenance comment goes, i have to respectfully disagree. While I am no freak about doing things exactly on time I dont feel the schedule or activities I do are negligent by any means. Over the past few weeks ive had the timing chain go (1), discovered either a bad steering rack or rack bushings (2), and now this bearing issue(3).
1. Ive always changed the oil since ive had it at 3-4k miles with mobile 1 except this last time where i went about 6-6500 miles. Prob not the cause of a failed chain.
2. The steering gear or bushings could be the cause of the curb i had to jump last winter to aviod getting t-boned by an old lady who didnt see her stop sign. PS fluid has been done twice during my time.
3. Changed the diff fluid twice since I have owned (45K miles) with mobile 1.

I think the KJ is just testing my metal and willingness to to own it. If I can make it through this maybe ill be rewarded with 100,000 more trouble free miles before it acts up again.

_________________
Pre-Lowered 02 Liberty
2.5" Rustys Coil w/ Ranchos in the rear.
ARB, OME927's, 1/4 strut plate and Als Gen 4.5 Uppers in the front.
Flowmaster Super 40 Series (GONE, SO QUIET!)
245/75/16 Kumho KL-78 w/ Spidertraxxxxx
Ripped out the plastic inner wheel liners
Herculined ALLLL over.....

Okay maintenance is not the issue,sorry just had to throw that out there.

If your going to replace a axle bearing(there's 2,one each side) then yes you will need to replace the seal also,you must remove the old seal to remove the bearing.There is no race on the axle bearings,the axle is the race and if the bearing failed it could have damaged the axle.Yep pull the "C" clip and since you have drums just pull the axle off,make sure the wheel and drum are removed since you have to push the axle in to remove the "C" clip,oh and don't for get you must remove the center pin in the carrier to do all of this also.The center pin takes a 8mm wrench,leave the trans or t-case in "N" so you can spin the driveshaft,do not spin the axle with the center pin removed or the spider gears will fall out.

Had to teach my buddy how to reinstall the spiders on his because he spin the axle

_________________
2008 KK Liberty Sport NIGHT OPS EDITION + GILLS
OEM & Custom Skids - Factory Tow Package - Rock Lizard Skink Super Sliders
Prototype JBA 4 Inch Lift - JBA UCA's - Flowmaster Super 44 OR - Whacked Resonator
Jet Stage 2 - RL Gecko Basket Rack - Custom Winch Bumper - Recon 10.5K Winch

Good info, thanks. I read that about the carrier pin last night. No idea what that is but it didnt look difficult in the FSM.

When you say there are two bearings (one on each side) do you mean two on each axle, one inboard and one outboard or two total for the both axles?

If there is only one per axle, what supports the axle shaft in the center, is it the spline into the gears only?

Thanks again

_________________
Pre-Lowered 02 Liberty
2.5" Rustys Coil w/ Ranchos in the rear.
ARB, OME927's, 1/4 strut plate and Als Gen 4.5 Uppers in the front.
Flowmaster Super 40 Series (GONE, SO QUIET!)
245/75/16 Kumho KL-78 w/ Spidertraxxxxx
Ripped out the plastic inner wheel liners
Herculined ALLLL over.....

Only one axle bearing per side,the spider gears hold the other side of the axle.