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 Post subject: Wy is my luck so bad?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 5:18 pm 
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So..... :roll: long story short, had noises in right rear brake for two days, didnt have time to tear it apart till today. Rotor is shot, pads toast, caliper cabooomed. The other 3 brakes are fine, no unusual wear. I think my piston malfunctioned and roasted the entire setup. Wheres the most cost effective right rear brake rotor & caliper i can buy? Any other reasons why this would happen other than the piston going haywire?

or should i throw the old one back on and crash it into a tree & sue chrysler... 09' rubi! :lol: :lol: :lol: j/k :twisted:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 5:38 pm 
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"a few" have had problems with the rear sticking and causing what you had happen.
NAPA would be where I would head for.

( I think it is caused from dreaming about SFA's) :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 5:42 pm 
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Usually has the best prices when I'm looking for parts, even after shipping.

It is generally thought best to replace brake components in pairs. Keeps parts wear in balance. Thus if I was spinning the wrenches, I'd be replacing the caliper and rotor on both sides.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 5:54 pm 
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ihatemybike wrote:
It is generally thought best to replace brake components in pairs. Keeps parts wear in balance. Thus if I was spinning the wrenches, I'd be replacing the caliper and rotor on both sides.

Excellent advice.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 6:53 pm 
+1@replacing both calipers

May be a good idea to flush all your nasty old brake fluid out.

How did your caliper go "kaboom"? pics or it didn't happen!


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 7:01 pm 
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ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:
+1@replacing both calipers

May be a good idea to flush all your nasty old brake fluid out.

How did your caliper go "kaboom"? pics or it didn't happen!


i'll take pics, i guess it stuck like was stated above, and judging by the damage done to the piston and rotor somthing may have gotten lodged into the brake pad. Its funny because i didnt notice anything until 2 days ago. The piston actually has a chunk out of it and the backside of the rotor is looking like the grand canyon.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 8:16 pm 
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My right rear caliper seized up. I went straight home(~2miles) and replaced it so I had no damage to anything. I stopped and poured a bunch of water on it about half way and let it cool down even though it was a short trip home. Didnt see any use in heating the bearing up and ruining it.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 4:12 pm 
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i have no clue what could have caused it, im hoping its not somthing to do with the master cylinder... wouldn't all the brakes be having problems if this happened? good thing is its not a steep repair, wish i could change all 4 out with powerslots or brembos but that money is not around at the moment :cry:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 3:00 pm 
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I read on here a while back that due to poor manufacturing quality control, the pistons inside the caliper could have been milled a couple hundredths shy of spec, causing the piston to try to go sideways inside the cylinder. If this is the case, once the piston is pushed out, it won't retract properly, therefore causing your issues.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 7:25 pm 
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SavageUrge wrote:
I read on here a while back that due to poor manufacturing quality control, the pistons inside the caliper could have been milled a couple hundredths shy of spec, causing the piston to try to go sideways inside the cylinder. If this is the case, once the piston is pushed out, it won't retract properly, therefore causing your issues.


exactly what the problem is. also don't buy cheap pads, when i took the pads off the other good caliper, they were badly cracked. whats that saying? you get what you pay for... yea, learned that lesson.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 10:24 pm 
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ramlebliberty wrote:
SavageUrge wrote:
I read on here a while back that due to poor manufacturing quality control, the pistons inside the caliper could have been milled a couple hundredths shy of spec, causing the piston to try to go sideways inside the cylinder. If this is the case, once the piston is pushed out, it won't retract properly, therefore causing your issues.


exactly what the problem is. also don't buy cheap pads, when i took the pads off the other good caliper, they were badly cracked. whats that saying? you get what you pay for... yea, learned that lesson.
Think some of us have mentioned that phrase a few times trying to prevent those "lesson learned" moments on various topics.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 10:42 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
ramlebliberty wrote:
SavageUrge wrote:
I read on here a while back that due to poor manufacturing quality control, the pistons inside the caliper could have been milled a couple hundredths shy of spec, causing the piston to try to go sideways inside the cylinder. If this is the case, once the piston is pushed out, it won't retract properly, therefore causing your issues.


exactly what the problem is. also don't buy cheap pads, when i took the pads off the other good caliper, they were badly cracked. whats that saying? you get what you pay for... yea, learned that lesson.
Think some of us have mentioned that phrase a few times trying to prevent those "lesson learned" moments on various topics.


yea, but when times are tough you gotta go the route you can afford. Unfortunantly it back fired this time.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:03 pm 
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well... the caliper is re-buildable, maybe i'll do a write up on how to repair a brake caliper. cost to repair it with a new piston, boot, and stuff is about 1/2 the price of the whole caliper assmbly.

total cost so far including ceramic pads is at $85 still need to buy fluids.

only bummer is i have to change the rotor on the other side now when i get the change.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:07 pm 
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ramlebliberty wrote:
well... the caliper is re-buildable, maybe i'll do a write up on how to repair a brake caliper. cost to repair it with a new piston, boot, and stuff is about 1/2 the price of the whole caliper assmbly.

total cost so far including ceramic pads is at $85 still need to buy fluids.

only bummer is i have to change the rotor on the other side now when i get the change.
Have you ever rebuilt a caliper? They are not hard but can be a paint in the butt,that seal is a bbbbiiiittttccchhhh.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 11:06 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
ramlebliberty wrote:
well... the caliper is re-buildable, maybe i'll do a write up on how to repair a brake caliper. cost to repair it with a new piston, boot, and stuff is about 1/2 the price of the whole caliper assmbly.

total cost so far including ceramic pads is at $85 still need to buy fluids.

only bummer is i have to change the rotor on the other side now when i get the change.
Have you ever rebuilt a caliper? They are not hard but can be a paint in the butt,that seal is a bbbbiiiittttccchhhh.


nope, this is my first "attemt" yea it was fun trying to get it off earlier... gotta love noreast rust sediments.

it won't be that bad, hardest part is i have to drive a kia until the parts come in.

total cost is going to equalabout $115 not bad for a rotor, ceramic pads, fluids, brake hardware and the piston. Wonder how much a shop would charge?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 12:58 am 
tjkj2002 wrote:
ramlebliberty wrote:
well... the caliper is re-buildable, maybe i'll do a write up on how to repair a brake caliper. cost to repair it with a new piston, boot, and stuff is about 1/2 the price of the whole caliper assmbly.

total cost so far including ceramic pads is at $85 still need to buy fluids.

only bummer is i have to change the rotor on the other side now when i get the change.
Have you ever rebuilt a caliper? They are not hard but can be a paint in the butt,that seal is a bbbbiiiittttccchhhh.


ThunderbirdJunkie is lazy and would rather buy a new caliper than rebuild an old one. It's worth the extra cost. Trust him.

That being said

His bike is in need of a caliper rebuild...and go figure, 30 year old Suzuki parts are hard to come buy new :evil:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 9:32 am 
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My right rear failed at about 37k.

Just get NAPA rotors. Don't mess with slotted drilled bs.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 10:03 pm 
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bugnout wrote:
My right rear failed at about 37k.

Just get NAPA rotors. Don't mess with slotted drilled bs.


I went with autozone for the rotor, was able to price match them down to $23... yea... i'm good.

its all temporary anyway the jeep only sees about 10k a year now and i plan on upgrading all the brakes, calipers, and e-brake shoes in the very near future

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