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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 3:51 pm 
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Probably because you are trying to use a laptop and a cellphone at the same time though the cig lighter...

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 3:59 pm 
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Ms5490renegade wrote:
how high can i go?


how high can you go...words of advice, do not think how high can I go but rather how high can I go and still have a serviceable vehicle that I can drive every day with out any problems, there is a major difference.

Look through the posts, there have been enough ( fill in the blank, I would use idiots ) who have tried to be the talllest and had a bunch of problems. So with that with the OME springs go 2 or 3 clevis rings per side, and if it needs it one isolator in the rear per side , stay there until you have either tons of money or another vehicle as a back up when you're too tall lift breaks something :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 7:35 pm 
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Ms5490renegade wrote:
how high can i go? also does anyone know which fuse is for the cigarette lighter? mine dies when i tried to plug my laptop in and my cell phone in at the same time


For some reason the front can't handle much jooce going through it, the back one can though.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 7:37 pm 
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tomsjeep wrote:
Ms5490renegade wrote:
Yes i honestly couldnt figure it out

I think he's saying that if you'll look in among the fuses, it's the blown one.
That being said, it may require pulling the fuses and testing them... sometimes they don't make a big sign when they blow. I've had a blown fuse that required a magnifying glass to spot the break.


how can i tell which ones are blown

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 7:38 pm 
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MidnightLiberty wrote:
Ms5490renegade wrote:
how high can i go? also does anyone know which fuse is for the cigarette lighter? mine dies when i tried to plug my laptop in and my cell phone in at the same time


For some reason the front can't handle much jooce going through it, the back one can though.


i noticed. i can plug a ton of sheit in the back

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 8:47 pm 
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Ms5490renegade wrote:
tomsjeep wrote:
Ms5490renegade wrote:
Yes i honestly couldnt figure it out

I think he's saying that if you'll look in among the fuses, it's the blown one.
That being said, it may require pulling the fuses and testing them... sometimes they don't make a big sign when they blow. I've had a blown fuse that required a magnifying glass to spot the break.


how can i tell which ones are blown

If it's not obvious (smoked, burned, etc.) then I hold it up to the light.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 9:35 pm 
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tomsjeep wrote:
Ms5490renegade wrote:
tomsjeep wrote:
Ms5490renegade wrote:
Yes i honestly couldnt figure it out

I think he's saying that if you'll look in among the fuses, it's the blown one.
That being said, it may require pulling the fuses and testing them... sometimes they don't make a big sign when they blow. I've had a blown fuse that required a magnifying glass to spot the break.


how can i tell which ones are blown

If it's not obvious (smoked, burned, etc.) then I hold it up to the light.


where is this particular fuse? also can the panel the lightbar switch is on come off?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 9:59 pm 
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this is what i plan to do with my rack and lighting situation.


Image


just a nice quick drawing but I already have some lights for it and will be putting the switches right next to the reny light bar.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 10:09 pm 
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im half way there
got the front and rear wired
next are the left and right (alley lights) working on those now

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 10:13 pm 
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SoDakJeep wrote:
this is what i plan to do with my rack and lighting situation.


Image


just a nice quick drawing but I already have some lights for it and will be putting the switches right next to the reny light bar.


like reverse that pic. i dont need front lights with the lightbar.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 11:15 pm 
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Ms5490renegade wrote:
where is this particular fuse? also can the panel the lightbar switch is on come off?

Should be Fuse 31 (20 amp).
I have no idea how you get the panel off, but it has to come off. They don't glue any of this stuff in permanently.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 11:21 pm 
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that fuse hes refering to is in the fusebox behind the panel that is revealed when you open your drivers door, has a thumb print indentation in it

if you have a couple extra bucks, advance and autozone carry fuzes that light up when theyre blown, but they're like twice the price of the standard fuses

a 2 dollar test light is better for your buck

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 11:33 pm 
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JeepinJarhead03 wrote:
that fuse hes refering to is in the fusebox behind the panel that is revealed when you open your drivers door, has a thumb print indentation in it

if you have a couple extra bucks, advance and autozone carry fuzes that light up when theyre blown, but they're like twice the price of the standard fuses

a 2 dollar test light is better for your buck


when i blew a bunch of fuses last summer most of them were inside that panel. i dont do the over night stuff at work any more so i dont need the laptop with me. my instinct can basically do everything the computer can.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 2:56 pm 
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Ms5490renegade wrote:
SoDakJeep wrote:
this is what i plan to do with my rack and lighting situation.


Image


just a nice quick drawing but I already have some lights for it and will be putting the switches right next to the reny light bar.


like reverse that pic. i dont need front lights with the lightbar.



yeah i noticed that after i had sent it to the host site. Lights face Left, Right, and Rear. I also have the light bar and I think it should work out great just waiting for the weather to get nice. So I can get everything hooked up and wired I will try to take pics if I remember. Its starting to get into the 60's last couple days but who knows we will probably have snow before the end of the month.

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Its a Jeep Thing...
IF CAPS LOOK IS ON IM AT WORK DONT WORRY BOUT IT IM NOT YELLING HAHA

2005 RENEGADE 4X4
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245/75/16 GOODYEAR MTR'S
FULL TINT
13 MILES TO THE GALLON.....GOD darn HAHA


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 9:53 pm 
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the past few days, my subs have been acting weird. the alternator isnt putting out the right power and the subs were drawing the power incorrectly. all my wires are good. cap is good. in-dash is good. and my amp is good. one of my subs was dying. the tech in the back had a tj with a 6 inch lift. he helped me out. he made a call and i got the new kenwood subs a week before they are on the shelves.

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