Bad Halfshaft assys? Ok to run without?

jdumont · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2009 1:25 pm

Isnt this really cheap for this? Is it the entire assy that one would need to replace the C/V and everything else except the for axle shaft?

From the picture, it looks like it comes with everything right?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... 4504151___

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2009 1:37 pm

There is a very good reason that its cheap... Well, it wont be cheap after about a year.

03CDKJ · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2009 2:01 pm

At least in my KJ... there was no Half shaft on the Drivers side, Only on the passenger side.

I think 1996xj got those for towstraps KJ and they were not the right size.... They'll have to chime in later...

I replaced mine with the (stock) replacements from Jeepin by Al... And they seem to be good!

Jeep Dawg · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2009 2:40 pm

stay away from the advanced and auto zone cv&half shafts. They are no at correct specs. They are slightly longer and they will blow out in a feww thousand miles.

Even some NAPA are longer.

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2009 2:44 pm

remember

Bure aghali...cheap is expensive :wink:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2009 8:25 pm

Yep I have measured many of those advance auto,autozone,and checker KJ shafts compared to my OEM CV shaft and they all where about 1" shorter and will cause problems.Always buy a REMANED CV shaft and not a new one unless you buy a new OEM CV shaft(about $1200 each).

oddball · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2009 9:10 pm

Pay attention!...

tjkj2002 wrote:

Always buy a REMANED CV shaft and not a new one unless you buy a new OEM CV shaft(about $1200 each).

That is 100% accurate advice.

jdumont · **Posted:** Thu Apr 16, 2009 7:40 pm

That shafts from Autozone say reman on them... still no good? Are the reman from junk ones that are too short?

http://tinyurl.com/cn5p57

Reason I ask is that while taking everything apart this afternoon to do the steering gear i came upon some wobbly half shafts. The passenger side is a lot looser than the drivers. This kinda makes sense. I have been having what i thought was driveline thump for a while on acceleration from stop and decel to a stop that goes away when i put it in 4x4 high. Must be preloading the C/Vs a little when in 4x4?

Is it normal for this piece to be loose when I shake it where the gray arrows are pointing?

This link to a video from someone here shows what mine is doing only mine isnt this severe... yet.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v225/ ... ft_Bad.flv

If not I may have to just pull them out and run without the half shafts and front drive shaft for a while. I cant afford two new HS now with everything else going on!

[/img]

Jeep Dawg · **Posted:** Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:40 pm

oddball wrote:

Pay attention!...

tjkj2002 wrote:

Always buy a REMANED CV shaft and not a new one unless you buy a new OEM CV shaft(about $1200 each).

That is 100% accurate advice.

Yea some times Troy's advice is either 100% or above. Some times his advice you DO NOT WANT TO KNOW cuz it is EXPENSIVE!!!!! But all in all he is the one to ask.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:50 pm

jdumont wrote:

That shafts from Autozone say reman on them... still no good? Are the reman from junk ones that are too short?

http://tinyurl.com/cn5p57

Reason I ask is that while taking everything apart this afternoon to do the steering gear i came upon some wobbly half shafts. The passenger side is a lot looser than the drivers. This kinda makes sense. I have been having what i thought was driveline thump for a while on acceleration from stop and decel to a stop that goes away when i put it in 4x4 high. Must be preloading the C/Vs a little when in 4x4?

Is it normal for this piece to be loose when I shake it where the gray arrows are pointing?

This link to a video from someone here shows what mine is doing only mine isnt this severe... yet.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v225/ ... ft_Bad.flv

If not I may have to just pull them out and run without the half shafts and front drive shaft for a while. I cant afford two new HS now with everything else going on!

[/img]

You don't have a bad CV joint,persay.The passenger side uses a intermediate shaft that goes from the carrier to the end of the passenger side D30A housing,it is splined on both sides and the passenger CV slips on those splines and is held on with a C-clip.It has happened before to others where that connection gets corroded and gets slop in it and the only way to fix this is to buy new(or good used) intermediate shaft and a new(or remaned/ugood used) CV shaft.The intermediate shaft looks like the below pic,to bad myjeepwalks just sold one to tommudd just a few days ago.

Sorry to tell you more bad news,you can pull the front driveshaft and both CV shafts and drive.You will need to drain the gear oil and plug the D30A outputs so no water or junk gets in there.

jdumont · **Posted:** Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:57 pm

I was looking on the Rockauto site and for the KJ it shows the same wheel bearing/hub for the front for 4WD and RWD so I dont see how it couldnt be safe to run it like that for a couple of months until I can save up the cash wouldnt you think.

Some people on here say to only do this in an emergency but what could the harm be?

TIMKEN Part # HA599467
4WD; Non-ABS; Front
RWD; Non-ABS; Front

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 16, 2009 9:03 pm

jdumont wrote:

I was looking on the Rockauto site and for the KJ it shows the same wheel bearing/hub for the front for 4WD and RWD so I dont see how it couldnt be safe to run it like that for a couple of months until I can save up the cash wouldnt you think.

Some people on here say to only do this in an emergency but what could the harm be?

TIMKEN Part # HA599467
4WD; Non-ABS; Front
RWD; Non-ABS; Front

You can do it,I've been running that way for about a 1 year now,though I did also remove the front diff all together though.The biggest thing is to keep that front diff sealed to keep junk out.Sadly the LCA's need to be unbolted to remove the 2 of the 3 front diff mounts otherwise a complete front removal is super easy.

jdumont · **Posted:** Thu Apr 16, 2009 9:09 pm

SWEET! Well at least there is some good news in this bad news....

So lift out the lower ball joint and sway bar link. Remove the 35mm nut on the axle shaft and rock the knuckle out so the axle falls out of that end. Then just pry out the half shaft from the diff (after drained) right? Then seal it all up and save my cash...

Unbelievable this thing is lately. I have been 2 seconds from selling it a couple times the past 6 months and both times I have backed out. This is the thanks I get right...

Hey thanks again for the help Troy.

Bad Halfshaft assys? Ok to run without?

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