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 Post subject: How to replace ERG and MAF?
PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 3:25 pm 
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The dealer says I need to spend $770 to replace my EGR valve and $245 to replace my MAF. I'm competent with tools. Can I do these things myself? I'd love some step by step instructions. Can anyone point me in the right direction? How much will the parts cost?


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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 6:08 pm 
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yes you can and if you do a search, you'll find plenty of info.

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 7:44 pm 
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Whats wrong with your EGR and the MAF is just screwed in to your air box with 2 screws. I don't even have a MAF sensor any more. My EGR is completely shut down because of not having a MAF. It has been that way for around 90,000 miles and no problems just great performance and good fuel mileage.


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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2009 10:12 pm 
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there is a egr on ebay right now for a good price.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 7:22 am 
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I ordered a EGR valve on eBay for $180 shipped.

I understand there are four bolts to remove. How about the coolant connections? Are there two coolant hoses to remove? Do I have to drain the cooling system first? What else should I remove to make the job easier?

It seems to me a sticky thread with all the steps needed to maintain the EGR system would be helpful here. I'm trying to sort through miles of threads on the subject looking for relevant, good quality information.


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 8:41 am 
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An easy way to maintain the EGR valve is, before starting the engine in the morning, unplug the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) on the airbox, take a cable-tie, and attach the loose plug to the A/C condensor line running just to the left of the engine cover. You will never have to worry about the EGR valve fouling up the intake ever again. :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 9:47 am 
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With the MAF disconnected wont the computer use a conservative default sensor value and reduce the fueling (power)?


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 9:59 am 
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it will throw a code but will give you more power and better fuel economy. If you dont like the code buy a segr

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 10:00 am 
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100th post!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 11:12 am 
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Congrats ribbon. I hit 100 the other day too. Nice to have that "Newbie" tag off your post, huh?

Disconnecting the MAF is called the ORM, or Off Road Mod. Think of it like this: Your intake sensor (MAP, or Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor) does not sense the amount of O2 in the intake, only air pressure. If your EGR is functioning, it is feeding O2-defficient air into your intake. we all know that more O2 = more boom when the diesel is injected. The amount of diesel injected on the combustion stroke is based on "throttle" position (the skinny pedal on the right, since a diesel does not have a throttle), not on the amount of O2 in the intake. So, if you disable the EGR, your engine is only pulling air into the intake rather than air and exhaust.

I have been running with the MAF sensor disconnected for about 5200 miles with no problems. It gives you a little more power, better fuel economy, and a little more diesel clatter sound than before.

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In this war of lines, so many have been crossed. Where will it all stop?

2006 Deep Beryl Green CRD Sport *SOLD 1/22/12*
Provent, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Samcos, GDE ECO & TCM Tune, Euro JK TC, Magnaflow Catback
245/70/16 Destination A/T's
Boiler's Radiator Skid Plate
Jeepin' By Al 2.5 inch Adjust-A-Strut Lift, JBA Gen 4.5 UCA's (6/5/10)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 11:53 am 
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I've had my MAF disconnected for the past 52k miles or so. I only plug it in once every couple of months or so to keep the EGR valve from seizing up. You will love the improvement in the idle sound. Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 6:38 pm 
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I'll replace the EGR valve, clean the MAF and disconnect it. I want to be able to sell this vehicle at any time so I want to be able to plug the MAF back in and have it work with no engine light. What else do I need to clean out or replace?


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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 8:40 am 
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Cleaning the MAF is relatively easy. Unplug the sensor, then unscrew the hose clamp holding the airbox to the air intake, and the MAF is right there at the airbox opening. Get some MAF cleaner from Auto Zone, spray it on there a few times, and it will be good to go. *From experience, try to avoid spraying the MAF cleaner on your hand. It is designed to dry very quickly, and will dry out and crack your skin.*

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In this war of lines, so many have been crossed. Where will it all stop?

2006 Deep Beryl Green CRD Sport *SOLD 1/22/12*
Provent, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Samcos, GDE ECO & TCM Tune, Euro JK TC, Magnaflow Catback
245/70/16 Destination A/T's
Boiler's Radiator Skid Plate
Jeepin' By Al 2.5 inch Adjust-A-Strut Lift, JBA Gen 4.5 UCA's (6/5/10)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 12:48 pm 
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Don't EVER use brake cleaner on the MAF. Ask how I know.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 2:41 pm 
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nursecosmo wrote:
Don't EVER use brake cleaner on the MAF. Ask how I know.
How do you know? :D Just curious, what is the difference between the brake cleaner and the MAF cleaner?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 2:46 pm 
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UFO wrote:
nursecosmo wrote:
Don't EVER use brake cleaner on the MAF. Ask how I know.
How do you know? :D Just curious, what is the difference between the brake cleaner and the MAF cleaner?


I don't know what the difference is, but it instantly fried my sensor.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 6:48 pm 
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Brake cleaner contain chlorine based chemical which will destroy the sensor. MAF cleaner does not contain chlorine compounds. I got the from a VW TDI diesel site. It seems to be correct looking at the list of ingredients on the bottle.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 8:57 am 
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nursecosmo wrote:
UFO wrote:
nursecosmo wrote:
Don't EVER use brake cleaner on the MAF. Ask how I know.
How do you know? :D Just curious, what is the difference between the brake cleaner and the MAF cleaner?


I don't know what the difference is, but it instantly fried my sensor.



Did that lead to the unfortunate eventuality of the ORM? Bummer, dude. . . :wink:

You can also buy chlorine-free brake parts cleaner. Picked up on that in old navy's alphabet soup post in the Tech section. I use that to clean my MAP (not MAF) sensor. Last time I cleaned it was before doing the ORM, and it was packed solid with soot. Haven't checked it since the ORM, but I'm hoping it is relatively clean next time around.

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In this war of lines, so many have been crossed. Where will it all stop?

2006 Deep Beryl Green CRD Sport *SOLD 1/22/12*
Provent, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Samcos, GDE ECO & TCM Tune, Euro JK TC, Magnaflow Catback
245/70/16 Destination A/T's
Boiler's Radiator Skid Plate
Jeepin' By Al 2.5 inch Adjust-A-Strut Lift, JBA Gen 4.5 UCA's (6/5/10)

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 9:13 am 
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Brake cleaner contains compounds that can attack certain plastics, I once got a super deal on a Hilti hammer drill, the only problem was it was very dirty (I hate dirty tools). With my new found treasure, and in an excited frenzy I grabbed brake cleaner to give it a bath, It shined up like a new penny. I put it in my stash of tools and forgot about it for a couple of weeks. The next time I went to use it I grabbed it by the handle and the plastic fragmented in my hands. I have a really nice case to fit a Hilti T-6 if anyone is interested!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2009 7:30 pm 
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SteveInMD wrote:
I'll replace the EGR valve, clean the MAF and disconnect it. I want to be able to sell this vehicle at any time so I want to be able to plug the MAF back in and have it work with no engine light. What else do I need to clean out or replace?


MrMopar says the EGR valves can be cleaned after removing the electrical part :lol: It's worth a shot :wink:

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