Hey just added a Light Bar with 2 Hella 500FF's and 2 Hella 500's. I think it turned out pretty good. It makes a slight amount of wind noise at 90km/h, and up but not much, or enough to even complain about. I made the bar out of 2 3/4 x 1 1/4 Aluminum C channel, and Clamped it on using 1 1/2 Exhaust U-Bolts. Surprisingly it turned out pretty good I'm going to paint it black soon but heres a quick pic. I still need too add some wire Loom and Paint it Black but hey it's up there lol, and the best part is it only cost about 165$ Canadian + a Case of beer.

Looks cool!
Is that cost including the lights?

Looks good, and gotta like the price.

Being a Canadian, my suggstion for paint would be to go to Canadian Tire a pick up a can or two of EZ Liner in the spray can.



It gives you a nice flat black non textued rubber coating that takes a beating with out scratches or any ill effect. I used this on my farm jack mount, Since I was mounting two long pieces of metal against each other with a fair amount of rub occuring when I drive, I fully expected the jack would scratch the paint right off the mount in no time. But instead it has been on for months, the jack has been taken off the mount, and re-installed many times and there isn't a single mark on the EZ Liner.

If you wanted a textured look I would use the Rocker Guard which again is available at Canadian tire.

_________________
-------------------------------------------------------
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2434197
2002 Liberty Renegade
-OME 927-Rancho RSX 17505-3 Ring Clevis-JBA UCA-Teraflex Bump Stop
-JBA-LIB25R Rear Coil-2 Upper/Lower Iso-Skyjacker H7088 Shocks-3 Hockey Puck Bump Stops
-Powerslot Rotors-Moab Rims-BFG TA/KO 265-75-R16
-ARB Bumper-Rock Rails
-Super 44 Exhaust
+ Some More Crap

A word of advice.
Don't opperate those lights with the covers on. Escpecially when standing still. The lens/reflector over heats and ends up cracking.

Yeah it's the price including the lights which were full kits with all the wiring etc... The Aluminum, was 13.50$ for 4ft. the lights were 70$ a set and the clamps were 2.35$ each. Then the Beer was included as well lol. EZ-Liner is a good Idea. I was thinking Rocker Guard Black. I also know not too run them with the covers on They are in the picture just for the look of it made it easier to photo them.

i like the look but u should have made them even on the bar IMO.

_________________
2016 Cherokee Latitude

(SOLD) 2005 Liberty Renegade 4x4
2.5" Lift, Wrangler MT/R 245/75/16, Hella 500s, Black Widow Roof Rack, Stock Rock Rails, TJ Front Bumper, Flowmaster 44 Offroad

(SOLD) 2006 Liberty Limited 4x4
L.O.S.T. Stickers, Yokohama Geolander AT-S

Yeah I totally agree that even spacing would have looked better but this works pretty well, because I have 2 500FF's in the middle (That Spot) and 2 Standard 500's on the ends That Flood out. We tried a few arrangements but this one worked best for me. I might add 2 more 500FF's to the middle at some point tho.


I also have a question for anyone else running Hellas has anyone tried putting the Hella 130W H3 bulbs in these? If so what do I need too upgrade electrically in my lighting setup? I'm soon getting an Optima Red Top as a side note.

I second that advice, don't operate the lamps with the covers on because the lens will crack. I've heard of people running 100W H3 bulbs but not the 130W ones. I'd be more worried about burning out my alternator than the lamp wiring. Say what do you have the lamps wired to? I have mine wired to the high beams.

Right now I'm running four Hella 500 lamps with 55W H3 bulbs and they throw off plenty of light. I seldom do night runs with the Libby but appreciate the extra wattage on the highways.

I'm going to fabricate a light bar like your's for my buddies. They're itching for more wattage out front.

_________________
my trail & highway ride (and occasional tow rig)
04 Liberty Sport with a 2.5" lift, ProComp 245/75R16 AT's and two Hella700FF lamps (more accessories to come)

my trail queen
95 YJ with a RE 4" lift, 33" ProComp Extreme's, M8000 Winch, Lockrite Locker up front, Super35 in the rear and 4.88 gears

I Ran power Direct from the Battery instead of the High Beam line. I often go into my camp or into places where the extra lighting with the key off and lights on for a few minutes will surely help. Also I've seen ppl grounding there lights too the roof via Self tapping screws and all that, but why drill the roof at all I Ran Slightly heavier Guage back to my battery the same way my power came up and it works just fine.

I assume I am "ppl" Heh!

Anyway,

Good automotive electrical system practice indicates that running a wire all the way back to the battery does not supply an adequate path for the return current. This is especially true for high-power accessories such as lights and audio amps. Grounding should be done to the body of the vehicle as close to the accessory as possible to reduce return path losses and reduce RF interference with other electrical systems. When you run a short ground wire to the roof (doesn't have to be the roof) you lower the impedance thereby allowing better flow of the voltage to your lights. This goes with high-powered stereo amps as well.

Many people advocate running thicker (or additional) ground straps from the chassis to to body, motor and/or battery as it can improve engine power, mileage, your audio system and, in general, more efficient working electrical components.

A good example of this is when you are following a car and notice their brake lights flickering with their turn signal...this is suposedly an indicator of a poor grounding circuit. Grounding methods an locations are very important in a proper running electrical system (and RF installations for you HAMS and CB'ers).

That is why I grounded my light bar with 400W of lighting (nearly 30A of current) directly to my roof with two ground straps. My CB antenna is also mounted here.

Besides, it isn't your Jeep until you put a hole in it.

John
];')

_________________
05 4x4/3.7L/6 Spd
245/75R16 GY Dura Trac
Lots of Mods!
My Wheeling Videos
My Mods, Upgrades and Custom Fabrications

I just saw your post man and yeah I guess you are "PPL" too lol. Some other ppl around my neck of the woods were using short grounds to the roof. I knew about the stereo Ground being heavy gauge and short my KJ used to Sport a Kicker setup. I didn't know that it would make that big of a difference for lighting and other accessories to I will definitely be adding a better grounf soon.