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 Post subject: 2 Car Audio Questions
PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 4:34 pm 
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A: If I got 4 of these amps http://www.overstock.com/Electronics/Py ... _iid=33970
and installed them inside each of my doors could I hook the negative for the ground on the amp and the positive for the power on my amp from the speaker. I guess what I'm saying is the Positive cable going into the harness for the speaker and the negative cable going into the harness for the speaker. Could I hook them up to the amp for my positive and my ground?

B: If I can not, how can I wire my front/back doors to get more power to my speakers because I am not going to run a million wires every which direction..

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Past: 95 Dodge Neon 2.0L Stage 4 Turbo (Street Tuner) *Wrecked/Sold*
Present: 05 Jeep Liberty (KJ) 2WD 3.7L, LTT CAI, Weight Reduction, SS Ultra Lights, and many more mods

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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 8:56 pm 
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the + and - wires for the speaker are AC current the amp is DC current, you wouldnt need to put them in the doors either, i would worry about water getting on them inside the doors, also because its a 2 ch amp you could get away with just getting two amps instead one for the front speakers and one for the rears.

as for powering the amps themselves i would goto a local car install bay (best buy, or audio express somthing like that) and get an amp install kit, itll come with power, ground, and remote turn on wire and the RCAs for the signal input, i would think 10 AWG should be more than big enough for the power wire, as for running speaker wire you can run that behind the radio and just wire it in there, much easyer than trying to goto each speaker. youll have to cut the speaker wires and connect the wires from the amp to the speaker side wires behind the radio

is the radio you have in your jeep stock? if it is youll also need a Line output converter (can also get at best buy) this converts the speaker level signal to RCAs for the amps, if you need wire colors for the speakers behind the radio let me know and i can get them for you.

any other questions feel free to ask

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 1:48 am 
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Ok how do you figure it's AC power? It's DC because it's running off a battery.. You just completely confused the hell out of me and I know alot about Car Audio...

I have A Pioneer Aftermarket Headunit and Speakers in each door.. I have utterly no Idea what you are talking about...

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Past: 95 Dodge Neon 2.0L Stage 4 Turbo (Street Tuner) *Wrecked/Sold*
Present: 05 Jeep Liberty (KJ) 2WD 3.7L, LTT CAI, Weight Reduction, SS Ultra Lights, and many more mods

If I don't stir the pot then no body will and the world would be boring, watch this guy for extreme sarcasm though :D


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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 1:44 pm 
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the power for the amp runs to the battery and you ground it to the chassis. then you run a remote wire to the back of the headunit (radio) so when the radio turns on the amp turns on also. then you hook up the speakers up to a different set of positive and negative lines so that sound comes out of them.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 2:00 pm 
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here is a general diagram for amp install.
http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/car/amplifiers_wiring.html

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2003 KJ Sport
Flowmaster Super 44
OME HD front springs, rusty's strut plate, 3 ring clevis, rusty's rear springs
JBA UCA 4.5
DTT upfront
Reese Tow hitch
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Crager Soft 8 15x8
Trxus MT 31x10.50/15
Coming Soon: SFA swap


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 2:19 pm 
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Okay wow.. I guess I wasn't specific enough still:

A: I know how to hook up an amp duh not hard
B: The question asked was about the Positive and the Negative coming into the backs of the speakers from the headunit. Can I use those as my power and my ground.. also as far as remote you don't need a remote wire for what I am going to do they are going to come on when the headunit comes on.

_________________
Past: 95 Dodge Neon 2.0L Stage 4 Turbo (Street Tuner) *Wrecked/Sold*
Present: 05 Jeep Liberty (KJ) 2WD 3.7L, LTT CAI, Weight Reduction, SS Ultra Lights, and many more mods

If I don't stir the pot then no body will and the world would be boring, watch this guy for extreme sarcasm though :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 3:46 pm 
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you can run the speaker +/- from the back of the radio to the speaker +/- of amp. that is how circuit city did it to mine at first, then i changed it. are you using the stock radio? or aftermarket?

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2003 KJ Sport
Flowmaster Super 44
OME HD front springs, rusty's strut plate, 3 ring clevis, rusty's rear springs
JBA UCA 4.5
DTT upfront
Reese Tow hitch
ARB Bull Bar
Renegade Light Bar
HiLift jack
Crager Soft 8 15x8
Trxus MT 31x10.50/15
Coming Soon: SFA swap


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 4:05 pm 
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Aftermarket Pioneer...

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Past: 95 Dodge Neon 2.0L Stage 4 Turbo (Street Tuner) *Wrecked/Sold*
Present: 05 Jeep Liberty (KJ) 2WD 3.7L, LTT CAI, Weight Reduction, SS Ultra Lights, and many more mods

If I don't stir the pot then no body will and the world would be boring, watch this guy for extreme sarcasm though :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 4:26 pm 
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it is a lot easier to run the speaker wire from the speaker to the amp and run rca cable from the amp to the radio. that is what i did to the jeep and my mini.

_________________
2003 KJ Sport
Flowmaster Super 44
OME HD front springs, rusty's strut plate, 3 ring clevis, rusty's rear springs
JBA UCA 4.5
DTT upfront
Reese Tow hitch
ARB Bull Bar
Renegade Light Bar
HiLift jack
Crager Soft 8 15x8
Trxus MT 31x10.50/15
Coming Soon: SFA swap


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 11:50 pm 
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You are asking questions about basic installs, it sounds like you need to take itto a qualified sho and have them do the install. It will save to me, money and headaches. I have been doing installs for 23 years, to include show cars with $250,000 installs, I sort of know a little about it. Please take it to a shop.

Pyramid has NEVER made a quality product and sells their products so other companies can re-lable it under their name. Save your money and buy good quality equipment, it will be worth the wait. EVERYONE I HAVE TOLD THIS TO THANKED ME LATER, EVERYONE.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 10:56 am 
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lil black liberty wrote:
Ok how do you figure it's AC power? It's DC because it's running off a battery.. You just completely confused the hell out of me and I know alot about Car Audio...

I have A Pioneer Aftermarket Headunit and Speakers in each door.. I have utterly no Idea what you are talking about...


get a DMM and hook it up to the speaker leads, it is AC power, the car makes AC power and the alternator changes it into DC, same thing with the deck and amps speaker output, it is AC

and i agree with jinstall, i get questions like this all week at work and when they finally bring it in for me to work on, i spend half the time trying to fix what they messed up

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98 TJ
4" rough country S lift
32x11.50 BFG ATs
homemade bumpers/rock sliders
CB radio
http://s124.photobucket.com/albums/p2/bubbaedc/


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 1:49 pm 
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Guess I ask a stupid question and get stupid answers ugh... As the new yorkers say: FORGETUHBOUTIT!

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Past: 95 Dodge Neon 2.0L Stage 4 Turbo (Street Tuner) *Wrecked/Sold*
Present: 05 Jeep Liberty (KJ) 2WD 3.7L, LTT CAI, Weight Reduction, SS Ultra Lights, and many more mods

If I don't stir the pot then no body will and the world would be boring, watch this guy for extreme sarcasm though :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 4:51 pm 
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just another thing you can look into and save some time and money is look for an amp that accepts high level input. instead of running rca cables you can just run the existing wire harness + - from the radio unit to the amp to run the signal instead of running bulky rca wires to the doors to get a signal. they also make amps that have a signal turn on feature that also detects the signals from the wires and you dont have to run a remote wire.

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06 Liberty Sport 2wd Manual 6-Speed.
Mods:
Excessive Amperage custom 200amp alternator
Yellow Top Optima Battery
RE XXX 12 subwoofer in 2.5 cubic ft slot vented box tuned to 32 hz
Earthquake PHD5000w amp
Earthquake 2 channel amp
MTX 6001 axe seperates 6 1/2 front speakers with 1" soft dome tweeters


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 9:26 pm 
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what i would probably do is mount the 4 amps under the front or rear seats, then bring the wires from the headunit through the console under the carpet or inside the console then under the carpet and out under the appropriate seat, run the power umbilicals under the carpet to the driver moulding to the firewall and out to the batt

then run the rcas under the carpet up the moulding and into the doors

should be pretty clean, and it keeps the power wires away from the center console where the unshielded leads are coming in to the amps

also mount a drychem or halon fire extinguisher under the front or back seat whichever one you didn't mount amps under

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 9:53 pm 
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Frostednutz wrote:
just another thing you can look into and save some time and money is look for an amp that accepts high level input. instead of running rca cables you can just run the existing wire harness + - from the radio unit to the amp to run the signal instead of running bulky rca wires to the doors to get a signal. they also make amps that have a signal turn on feature that also detects the signals from the wires and you dont have to run a remote wire.


This is way more work than installing a set of RCA cables. You also loose about 30% quality doing this. This would be a last option. You must plan your installation from front to back and get all the parts you need BEFORE starting. Do it right the first time and you never have to go back and replace anything. I have never had equipment fail on any system that was not tuned right or played correctly. I did DB Drags on the German National level and only blew a sub once, because I turned it up too loud and forced the sub to produce distortion, not pure tone.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 7:51 am 
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mtx with 75db signal to noise ratio
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9324_MTX+Audio+TE1004+Thunder+Elite+1004.html
jl amp with 110db signal to noise with .03 % THD
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15358_JL+Audio+HD600-4.html
these are just a couple of amps that use high level inputs. there are alot of amps that have both. also the higher the voltage running through the wire the less interferance it will recieve from outside sources. that's when line voltage will become important. a radio running a .3 volt low level line might not make a difference in sound quality as a high level line. an amp with .03% THD is pretty good as 0.10% and lower is inaudable. not saying that you are right or wrong but in most cases of subwoofers a high level line is not as good as a low level line and vise versa for speakers. at least that is what i understand.

_________________
06 Liberty Sport 2wd Manual 6-Speed.
Mods:
Excessive Amperage custom 200amp alternator
Yellow Top Optima Battery
RE XXX 12 subwoofer in 2.5 cubic ft slot vented box tuned to 32 hz
Earthquake PHD5000w amp
Earthquake 2 channel amp
MTX 6001 axe seperates 6 1/2 front speakers with 1" soft dome tweeters


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 11:33 am 
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Figured it out... Went with a Kicker 4 channel amp..

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Past: 95 Dodge Neon 2.0L Stage 4 Turbo (Street Tuner) *Wrecked/Sold*
Present: 05 Jeep Liberty (KJ) 2WD 3.7L, LTT CAI, Weight Reduction, SS Ultra Lights, and many more mods

If I don't stir the pot then no body will and the world would be boring, watch this guy for extreme sarcasm though :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 4:12 pm 
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Okay guys. The alternator does not turn AC to DC to begin with. A generator makes DC and an alternator makes AC. After the alternator makes AC it passes though a full wave rectifier which returns around 14 VDC. The power from the alternator is run through a current rectifier. A rectifier changes alternating current (AC) into direct current (DC). It does this through diodes. One diode will send the positive half of the current cycle to the positive terminal of the battery, but won't let the negative cycle through. Another diode will send the negative part of the cycle to the negative terminal of the battery, but won't let the positive part through. Because there are three coils spread around the alternator, a relatively constant current flows out of it. At any point, at least one coil is producing negative power and one coil is producing positive power. The alternator produces consistent enough power to run all the electronics in the car and charge the battery.


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