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 Post subject: Best Fan Clutch Install Method
PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 3:20 pm 
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I have a 2005 CRD which is probably fitted with one of those "weak" '05 fan clutches, resulting in overheating when towing in hot weather.

I bought a new one in the hopes it will work as it has for others with '05 CRDs to correct this problem.

There has been some controversy on the site as to the easiest and potentially least likely way to get it installed without running into some sort of problem/issue.

What would folks suggest?

thanks,

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 4:44 pm 
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I think someone cut it in half and just removed the top half. I don't know how he put it together tight.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 10:21 pm 
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Make sure you have the tools to remove the fan clutch from the shaft. If you don't, your life will be miserable.
I made my own holding tool but would have been much faster to rent one.
Now that I have the new fan clutch in, I heard the fan for the first time ever!
My overheating problems seem to be gone on my 05 CRD.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 10:16 am 
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Turbo Tim,

Thanks for your reply. Could you walk me through your approach?

Did you cut the fan shroud or???

The name of the holding tool to be rented is and might be sourced from?

Thanks again,

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 10:44 am 
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I've read several times a mention of cutting the shroud, but none of how it was replaced.

I Figure on taking the tin snips to it between the top and bottom bolts on each side. I plan on using some sheet metal and some short screws to re attach it. There is not exactly a ton of clearance on the outer edge of the shroud so screws may not work, i may have to use some sort of flat clamp or some such. Regardless cutting between the bolts alone should be good enough to re attach it, plus the way it goes together on top of the radiators, i think that will be sufficient.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 1:09 pm 
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I spent more time fighting the belt tensioner and getting the belt back on straight than anything else.
I loosened the bolts to the fan where it attaches to the fan clutch first. I then removed the bolts that hold the top radiator support so it could flex some.
If I then could get the fan loose without the proper tools, I could have saved ½ the day.
Here in Arizona, some parts stores like AutoZone have a tool rental program. You buy the tool, and when your done, take it back and they will give you all your money back.
I highly recommend that you do this.
I then took the 4 bolts out that hold the fan shroud, got the fan off and lifted both up just enough to weasel out the fan and clutch assembly. I did NOT cut the shroud.
Check to see on the new clutch if the threads are right or left hand threads before trying to loosen the old clutch. I don’t remember but I think they are normal right hand threads.
Reversed the process and all is well.
Much better cooling here in Az pulling the boat and off road car in 100+ heat.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 1:51 pm 
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I just removed the top half of my fan shroud and took photo's. as i currently do not have my replacement clutch i left the old one in place (and i am not 100% yet on how to remove the thing) In the future i will post my photo's.

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Transgo shift kit, EHM, fcv butterfly removed, egr plated off. 19 3/8 solid flex fan, no electric fan, 10k lb aux trans cooler.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 4:02 pm 
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Turbo Tim,

Thank again. There are plenty of Autozones where I live, but what is the tool you suggest renting?

DOC

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 6:11 pm 
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I believe someone here posted how to do this someplace.
Anyway the two tools you need are: A long skinny wrench that fits the big nut on the shaft of the fan clutch. Sorry I don’t know the size.
The second tool is a holding tool for the pulley that the fan clutch screws onto. It looks like a “Y” with about ½ inch long pins sticking out at the tip of the Y. There are four holes/slots on the front of the pulley. This is where you insert the pins on the holding tool to keep the pulley from moving. You need this to loosen and tighten the fan clutch nut.
Take a flashlight and look it over closely and you’ll see them.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 7:04 pm 
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DOC4444 wrote:
Turbo Tim,

Thank again. There are plenty of Autozones where I live, but what is the tool you suggest renting?

DOC


computers are your friend and we aim to please so look here http://www.autozone.com/autozone/inourstores/lat/latLanding.jsp?bodyContent=heatingAndCooling

Gary

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 1:20 pm 
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One of the members from Australia had cut his shroud and manufactured some sort of fasteners for easy access. Maybe you could post the question in the OZ section of the board for some pics of the mod.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 11:02 pm 
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Mine has overheating issues too, when towing in warm weather or when driving on the interstate in warm weather. How do I know if its the fan clutch or the software problem, for which they have a TSB?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 7:45 am 
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Is it correct to assume that the majority of KJ CRD's with overheating issues due to a faulty fan clutch are 2005 models?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 11:20 am 
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Line,

It's looking that way, but obviously individual '06s could have a fan clutch problem too. It just seems to be a little tricky due to some gauge issues on some rigs. I don't have my new clutch in yet, but if I start being able to actually HEAR the fan (like with our old TD Suburban), as someone else noted, after installing a new fan clutch, we should be good.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:49 pm 
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To change my fan clutch I just put a large wrench one side on the fan clutch and on the other side contrary to the turn of the engine touching the low part of the engine bay (I don't know if I make myself clear), so I tried to start the engine just a little less than a second and the fan clutch was loose :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 7:35 pm 
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Ya that's another stupid thing I did. Looking back I now realize that I didn't have to take the fan belt off. Live and learn.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 12:14 pm 
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Autozone OEM 27018 IS NOT EVEN CLOSE to working on the liberty.

The Nut wrench is to large, and the clutch wrench is to wide, and is, the wrong type. it doe snot have a 90 degree angle on the prongs, they are 180 degree (straight).

WHAT size is the nut anyway?

I'm going ot have ot go buy a wrench for this sensored word.

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06 CRD Limited. IMII, GDE TCM, Carter transfer pump, Upgraded oem primary, 2 micron secondary, 3 inch mandrel straight pipe.
Transgo shift kit, EHM, fcv butterfly removed, egr plated off. 19 3/8 solid flex fan, no electric fan, 10k lb aux trans cooler.
Frankenlift II, Mopar skids, allj's rails, 235/85 km2 on stock rims


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 9:13 pm 
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Most people buy the new part first BEFORE starting this project. Many have learned that most parts houses don't stock parts for the CRD.
(I ordered mine from Mopar Parts America and it was delivered to the door). If you had the new part you could just measure that one.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 9:46 pm 
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I used an 15 inch adjustable craftsman wrench and a 3/8ths craftsman professional slotted hand driver.

At the time the replacement clutch was in the mail. By the time it got here, i had just completed the removal of the defective clutch. The Nut is 1-7/16 inch. Craftsman did not have an open ended 1-7/16 wrench in any style.

Sears #00944588000
Craftsman #44588
Is a Craftsman 1-3/8 x 1-7/16 in. Wrench, Open End. But of the three sears In my area, none had it.

I don't like using adjustable wrenches.

But thanks a ton for your help.

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06 CRD Limited. IMII, GDE TCM, Carter transfer pump, Upgraded oem primary, 2 micron secondary, 3 inch mandrel straight pipe.
Transgo shift kit, EHM, fcv butterfly removed, egr plated off. 19 3/8 solid flex fan, no electric fan, 10k lb aux trans cooler.
Frankenlift II, Mopar skids, allj's rails, 235/85 km2 on stock rims


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 11:58 pm 
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What's the best way to test that the fan clutch needs replacing? My fan spins so does that mean it's OK? Still trying to get a handle on this heat issue.

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