Best Fan Clutch Install Method

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 04, 2009 7:17 am

CRDMiller,

I discovered the same thing about the Autozone tools. I'm about to also use a large crescent wrench. In my trial check, it looks like there should be enough drag on the pulley the clutch is bolted to that a few whacks on the end of the crescent wrench with a hammer should free the nut. (The "other" Autozone tool, a set of large different size "crows feet" to hold fan clutches from turning looks like they won't fit without first removing the fan.)

Could you be more specific as to how you loosened the nut on your's? Also, how did you attempt to get reasonable torque on the install (though its probably self-tightening in operation)?

The OEM manual says you can remove the clutch and fan as a unit after "removing" the "upper" fan shroud. Could you describe if you took it out in one piece and what you had to move to get it out?

Also, after the install, have you been able to get it real hot, pop the hood and confirm that there's a little tornado in there that you never noticed before?

Thanks,

DOC

CRDMiller · **Posted:** Thu Jun 04, 2009 12:09 pm

JL Rockies, fsm states to cover grill , turn ac off, and rev to 2500 rpm for ~ 10 miniutes, with a 8 inch thermometer/probe placed in a hole drilled in the front center of radiator, between the spinning fan blades, and the radiator. (be carefull) I used a cheap digital/remote thermometer made for baking, from target, it was 12 dollars and very accurate. To cover my grille, i just put on my fia winter front, and i also taped a trash bag as best i could, over the bottom of the air dam.

Between 190 (i think) and 205 f the fan clutch should be fully engaged.

It will be painfully obvious that the fan is engaged. If your not sure, then it's not.

I went one step further and unplugged the electric fan high and low relays, And turned on the ac. (fsm says to not turn the ac on, most likely because of the electric fan)
I don't think it would have been possible to hit the 202f that i achieved w/o the ac on. Please check the fsm to be sure I have the correct info. I don't have it handy.

Shroud Removal;
I did this a day before i had my fan clutch, and put it back together.
It's easy, and safe, and easier if you remove the fan clutch.
I removed the air box, and disco'd the cac hoses from the cac.

Drivers Cut

Started with dremel tool, finished with Small hacksaw (angle made it imposable w/o starting with dremel)

Passengers Side Stared with dremel (not necessary) finished with Hack saw.

I cut it this was so that the top would not be flimsy (it has the nice screw mounts, and the top flap) The problem is, i later found that the bottom seat for the shroud is not bolted in, it just sits in a little channel. This is bad.

I rotated the bottom up, drilled holes in the retainer, and used a pair of zip ties to hold it to the bottom channel.
This is where i drilled.

Unfortunately i do not, and did not take pictures of the way i zip tied, I was in a hurry to get to the car wash and spray it down. Without removing the fan clutch the drivers size zip tie is MURDER but it is possible, i did it. I will in the future add the photo's of the zip ties, eventually.

I know they are zip ties. I know this is not ideal. But i don't think they are going to fail. I can not make the tip of the cut piece hit the fan with my hands. So i'm not worried about it. I was thinking of a little bracket but i'd rather not put screws that close to the fan tips. it would take me about 30 seconds and tin snips to make a sheet metal bracket for it. I may do it in the future if i find better fasteners, other than the screws. As it sits now, I cant move the shroud, it's in there better than stock.

Even if you don't do this to replace the clutch, think of this. Your out wheeling, you loose your acc belt. You now have to remove your fan clutch? to get the shroud off. Also, you come home from the mud pits or whatever, and want to clean your rads. To bad. The dirty photo i have up here is after serious mud, yees, but ALSO after a ton of water to the grill area, and 4-5 car washes. I had done everything i could to clean the radiator w/o taking the shroud off, and that is the result. Not pretty. (this particular picture does not do the dirt justice)

12 dollar target Thermometer.

The hole for said thermometer.

Dirty = heat.

General.

HR images (you have to click the "full size" sub link)

CRDMiller · **Posted:** Thu Jun 04, 2009 12:38 pm

DOC4444,

I was unable to break the nut loose with a hammer and wrench. (against the belt)
I would estimate that it took around 350-400+ ft.lb to break it

I Jammed my screwdriver into the inner clutch hole(on the drivers side), and it lodged against the head of a bolt, excellent i thought, because i had been muscling it for a while and was getting pissed. I'm not a particularly large guy but i am not weak, either. I am, however, left handed.

I thought about going at it with the hammer with the pully jammed, but figured, bearings and all, I'll just get a cheater bar. I put a 3-1/2 foot cheater bar on it, came off pretty easy after that. (cheater bar is 1/2 of the handle from my 3 and 1/2 ton floor jack, witch, while excellent at operating the jack, is also very good at gutting cats.)

As far as the install goes, i put anti-seize on the threads of the new unit, took my time to not foul the threads, and tightened it with said screwdriver (not jammed against the nut but hand held) and wrench, and called it done. Now, if she ever runs backwards we may have problems, but i probably put about 150 ft-lb on it.

I cut my shroud in 1/2, before i bothered with the clutch. i think this is the way to do it. as long as you properly secure the bottom half, so that it can not move/ so that it can not possibly be struck by the fan while off roading, etc.

Edited grammar/

yakers · **Posted:** Thu Jun 04, 2009 7:04 pm

Nice pics and story. Maybe add to tech section?

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Thu Jun 04, 2009 11:05 pm

So, can you hear your fan now?

CRDMiller · **Posted:** Fri Jun 05, 2009 1:19 am

I was absolutely able to hear it, on the first crank after the install, it was roaring (similar to my 4 runner) for about 60 seconds, until i revved it, and it stopped (i assume because of the centrifugal force slinging the fluid out of the coupling)

Since then i have not heard it, i think due to the fact that it is not hot here, it's been about 72 daytime and 65 at night, and it does not normally sit for more than 10 hours. I have not seen the needle even go to the 1/2 way mark (i cleaned the radiator(s), and also drained and refilled the coolant with 4-1/2 gals of g-05)
I will test it in a few days (per fsm) but it's going to need to warm up before I can get it over 190 for sure.

From what i can tell, my tstat is working more than properly (by squeezing the upper radiator hose you can feel if it's wide open or not)

So we'll see. I'm planning on going out to the Ocotillo Wells/Borrego Springs OHV around the 18'th or so and for sure we'll be hearing it then.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Fri Jun 05, 2009 1:45 am

So what you're saying, is once I read the temps laid out in your post, I should hear the fan get louder?

Late last year when I was still in FL and my heat problems started, I put a piece of tape on a fan blade and connected it to the shroud. I started the engine and waited for it to warm up. After a bit of time, the tape broke and was spinning with the blade.

By doing this, I thought I was testing the clutch. I guess I was wrong.

Photos of the clutch removal and tools and tips would be nice. If I don't have to pay the dealer to do it, I'd rather not.

The thing in front of the fan with the fins is the clutch?

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Fri Jun 05, 2009 2:14 am

So I guess something like this will not work?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90341

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Fri Jun 05, 2009 2:53 am

Is the nut on the front of the unit? Could you get a socket on it?

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 05, 2009 11:10 pm

I finally got around to installing a new fan clutch. I also found that BOTH Autozone tool sets are of absolutely no use.

I found that a 17mm combination wrench works perfectly in conjunction with the engine lifting bracket to lock the pulley so you can break the nut free.

Put one jaw in one of the pulley holes and use a bolt with fender washers on both sides of the "box" end through the hole in the bracket, secured with a nut. (I needed a slightly shorter length for the tightening operation, so I used a 15mm combination.)

Use a large adjustable crescent wrench to remove the big nut. Whack the end with a big hammer and it should come free. Leave the fan attached.

The fan shroud is only secured by two bolts with 10mm heads near the top, one on each side. Remove these and free the lines that are attached to the top of the shroud.

That's all you need to remove. The trick is to have the clutch and fan come up and out as a unit as you pull the shroud up.

Remove the fan and install on the new clutch. When you replace the shroud, make sure the lower locating tabs on either side are engaged in their slots.

Use another combination wrench to lock the pulley from turning the other way. Give the crescent wrench a good whack and that should tighten it adequately.

My new clutch seems to run the fan much more strongly from cold and the temp gauge runs an 1/8" to the left of vertical (fomer previous "normal").

It's been in the high 50s here and no towing since the clutch install, so I will have to report on hot weather towing later.

DOC

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 06, 2009 9:23 pm

I just made some full throttle runs up long steep hills with my wife's empty (1800 lb) horse trailer at about 75 MPH (terminal velocity) @ 70 degree ambient temperature, AC on. The new fan clutch definitely helps, but I'm not sure it is working properly. It moves more air than before at cold startup, but the volume does not seem to increase, even with the temp gauge almost pegged. However, as soon as I let off, the gauge comes back, almost as if it was a tach. I don't hear it "kick-on", though, as I did with our old 6.5TD Suburban.

The CRD now clearly will take a lot more abuse than previously, before pegging the gauge, but I was hoping for more. Also, I doubt that our CRD has had the TSB reprogramming that adds "stabilization" to the coolant temp gauge and makes it less sensitive. However, I prefer to keep it the way it is to help keep us on our toes, keeping an eye on it. (Also, I don't want to have to send the ECU back to InMotion after the dealer reflashes it.)

So, please share your stories about heavy towing up long hills in high temps.

DOC

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Sat Jun 06, 2009 10:30 pm

See, now I wonder if my original idea that my problems were trans related and adding an aux cooler would help.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Mon Jun 08, 2009 3:03 pm

I had the dealer check out my fan clutch while it was there for other issues. They say the fan checks out fine along with the coolant system. The service guy said "we'll put a new clutch in if it will make you feel better". The cost was $373 P&L.

So I think I am going to go with my initial idea of putting in an AUX cooler and see what happens.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 08, 2009 5:19 pm

JL,

Are you saying that if you would like to spend $378, they would be happy to replace your fan clutch?

DOC

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Mon Jun 08, 2009 5:55 pm

Yes, they would be happy to do it for me, but they don't think that the one in there already is a problem. They also checked the temp gauge and confirmed that software is up to date.

Best Fan Clutch Install Method

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