Help a brother out; CV axles

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Mon Jun 08, 2009 11:51 pm

The clunking problems I've been having has been diagnosed as the front CV joints. They say there's excessive play in both and I do hear it clanking when I hit it with my fist. The dealer wants $600 per side P&L . I'm no genus, but that's about $1200 give or take.

I've been looking around on the internet for a "How too" but to no avail. I know there are a few of you guys on here that's either had to address this yourself and/or are professional mechanics.

Could someone write out a detailed step by step on the R&R of the CVs? Pics would be awesome but I don't want to be too demanding.

I may be a regular guy but my dad's a TV repairman and he's got an ultimate set of tools..... I can fix it.

Holla back if you can help me out. In this economy, it takes me like 3 months to make that kinda scratch.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 12:07 am

So I take it your not heading this way anytime soon?

There is 2 ways to do this,the easy way and the hard way(the right way).The easy way requires two people and some muscle but takes way less time but the chance for disaster is higher.I can put up a wright up tomorrow,sorry will not have many pics,for the easy way.You will need some special tools,a 35mm axle nut socket($15),2 or 3 arm puller,balljoint/tierod end separator(or a 3lbs hammer),and of course 2 ratchet straps for either way.

Guest · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 12:11 am

Hmm...don't remember if the CV axles are small enough to fit through the hole in the knuckle after the hub is removed

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 12:14 am

ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:

Hmm...don't remember if the CV axles are small enough to fit through the hole in the knuckle after the hub is removed

There not small enough.The knuckle needs to come off either way(puller for those rusted CV splines in the unit bearing),the easy way does not require the removal of the strut assemblies(just the clevis),can be a pain on the drivers side and CRD's.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 12:34 am

No, I had not planned on coming your way anytime soon although if I did, I guess I would save money still. But you don't need to be working on my stuff and getting all in the way of yours..... right?

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 1:01 am

We pulled Chris (03CDKJs) out here in my garage, much like TJKJ stated, pretty much straightforward. If he writes something up I will save my slow az typing , if not I will do my best for you!

03CDKJ · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 1:05 am

tommudd wrote:

We pulled Chris (03CDKJs) out here in my garage, much like TJKJ stated, pretty much straightforward. If he writes something up I will save my slow az typing , if not I will do my best for you!

YEP
It's not too bad of a job.... It's a lot easier to re-install everything with brand new hardware too.... :wink:

Hood297 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 1:12 am

YEP
It's not too bad of a job.... It's a lot easier to re-install everything with brand new hardware too.... :wink:

[/quote]

X1000

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 1:20 am

03CDKJ wrote:

tommudd wrote:

We pulled Chris (03CDKJs) out here in my garage, much like TJKJ stated, pretty much straightforward. If he writes something up I will save my slow az typing , if not I will do my best for you!

YEP
It's not too bad of a job.... It's a lot easier to re-install everything with brand new hardware too.... :wink:

Its not too bad if you don't try and do lifts /rails/and all kinds of other stuff before you start on this job!

remove
Brakes...caliper/rotor caliper mounting bracket, if you have wheel speed sensor remove it
knock upper ball joint loose and remove from knuckle
nut from the axle/CV
knuckle swing it back out of the road, we removed it on the drivers side, passenger side we didn't just tied it back
remove clevis most likely have to at least loosen the top plate nuts to have some give to get the clevis out depending on lift etc.
CVs can be a pain to pull sometimes esp. if well worn like Chris' pass. side was, took a few tugs

That will get you started

Jeep4me99 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 7:38 am

I didn't remove the knuckle completely, kept it on the tie rod and supported it with a jack. I didn't use a pulle either, justs a hammer to back the CV out of the wheel bearing.

I have a write up in the tech section, but its only for the drivers side.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 8:42 am

You can rent front end service kits from advance auto parts. Last time I went there to get them they had raised the prices A LOT. You just rent them then return them and get all your money back but it was going to cost over $400 just to rent the stuff. Thats too much money for me to be throwing around but their kits are handy. They came with everything to pop all the joints out and a two arm puller to push the cv splines out of the knuckle. Made taking the suspension apart MUCH faster.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 6:19 pm

Sorry but no pics and I'll try to explain the best I can.

1-Jack one side up and support with jack stand,remove wheel(easier to do one side at a time)

2-Shove flat head screwdriver in rotor vents,to prevent rotor from turning(it will hit the caliper),use 35mm socket to remove axle nut.Remove screwdriver.Remove upper swaybar bolt/nut(15mm and 18mm).

3-Loosen two 12mm caliper bolts,loosen only for now,loosen two 21mm caliper mount bolts,loosen only for now.

4-Remove outer tierod end nut(21mm),use 10mm socket and ratchet on bottom of tierod shaft,apply pressure in any direction(tighten or loosen) while hitting knuckle at tirrod end location with 3lbs hammer until it breaks free(be careful of tierod end boot,manly hits needed).

5-Remove LBJ nut(21mm for OEM),Place floor jack perpendicular to the rotor,place lifting pad under LBJ stud,lift about 1/2"(not alot just some to put pressure on LBJ),hit area by LBJ on the LCA with 3lbs hammer until LBJ breaks free(it will scare you,be careful of balljoint boot).Lower jack with LBJ still in the LCA.

6-Place floor jack back under LCA but not on the LBJ stud,remove UBJ nut(21mm for OEM),hit knuckle next to UBJ area(be careful boot) until it breaks free.

7-Remove 12mm caliper bolts and tie caliper out of the way,remove brake pads,remove 21mm caliper mount bolts,remove rotor.Lower jack.

8-Push CV through(toward vehicle) knuckle,if it does not move use large 2 or 3 prong puller to push CV through the knuckles unit bearing,DO NOT HAMMER ON CV,remove knuckle.

9-Remove lower clevis bolt(21mm),loosen upper clevis bolt,remove clevis.

10-Have helper grab the bottom of the strut assembly,pull out and towards back of vehicle to gain room to pull CV shaft out.You,take prybar(or large screwdriver) and place between inner CV cup and diif,pry CV out(it will pop out),once free pull CV out.Drivers side is harder for this step.Upon CV installation you will need to slam the new CV in pretty good to engage it properly.

11-Install is reverse of removal,do not forget to bolt caliper back up before reattaching the UBJ to the knuckle.

Torque specs............

UBJ--60lbs-ft
LBJ--60-80lbs-ft
Tierod end--80lbs-ft
Lower Clevis bolt--100lbs-ft
Upper Clevis bolt--100lbs-ft
12mm caliper bolts--20-25lbs-ft
21mm caliper mount bolts-100lbs-ft
Swaybar bolts--100lbs-ft
Axle nut--100lbs-ft

KJ Willy · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 7:31 pm

So my driver's side cv is good but passenger side is going, should I replace both or just the one that is needed?

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 7:31 pm

Thank you for your help. I'll try to make at least one friend and ask them to help me out. I'll take pics.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:36 pm

Nice write-up tjkj. Seems there are a lot of people that need to do this but has a lot of questions(me included).

Here is the kit I got at advance when I did my ball joints:

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 10:04 pm

Does that make the job any easier?

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 10:16 pm

While we are on the subject, how many splines is the hub?

2006 KJ · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 10:25 pm

when i did mine i didnt remove the knuckle or brakes... was able to swing the whole assembly up/forward enough to get the axle out of the knuckle..

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 7:39 am

JL Rockies wrote:

Does that make the job any easier?

I wouldnt of been able to get the splines out of the knuckle with out that puller.

I also like using all the other little pullers to get the tie rod, ball joints, etc out. I dont like beating on them with a hammer.

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 9:18 am

Using the hammer is one quick WHAP! Pullers are for people who don't know how to use a hammer properly, I have had mine out twice/ Chris' out and never had to use any pullers, no problems coming out of the knuckle or anything

Help a brother out; CV axles

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