Help a brother out; CV axles

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 9:55 am

tommudd wrote:

Pullers are for people who don't know how to use a hammer properly,

Lets keep our 'opinoins' to our self. :lol:

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 10:12 am

Jeepjeepster wrote:

tommudd wrote:

Pullers are for people who don't know how to use a hammer properly,

Lets keep our 'opinoins' to our self. :lol:

Not an opinion....FACT

:lol:

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:38 pm

One question:

If you're whacking things with hammers or using pullers to get part apart, how do they go back together?

03CDKJ · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:43 pm

The new Cv's will slide in no problem....

There is no need to go get a puller.... Unscrew the big 35mm Nut and then put in back on a few threads and give it a few wacks....
I learned that from someone....... :shock:

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:45 pm

Tapping very gently Grasshopper...very gently

03CDKJ · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:48 pm

pffffffffffffffft..... :lol:

WACK!!!!!

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 6:24 pm

JL Rockies wrote:

One question:

If you're whacking things with hammers or using pullers to get part apart, how do they go back together?

The ball joints are tapered in there seats so when you torque the nuts down it 'seats' them. When you go to take the nut off they are stuck in there seat which is why you need to hit them or press them out. Putting them back together is very easy since you just put them in the hole then tighten the nut down. Some people get confused when the joint turns while they try to torque the nut. To fix this issue use a wrench to hold the joint while tightening the nut with another wrench. It will all make sense when you tear into it.

Same thing goes for the cv's for the most part.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 7:35 pm

03CDKJ wrote:

The new Cv's will slide in no problem....

There is no need to go get a puller.... Unscrew the big 35mm Nut and then put in back on a few threads and give it a few wacks....
I learned that from someone....... :shock:

Big no-no,mushroom that shaft and your torching it out and replacing the unit bearing also.

stumpjumper_09 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 7:47 pm

Do you need an alignment after doing lbj?

Not to hijack or anything :roll:

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2009 10:19 pm

Its as good idea but I didnt get one RIGHT after replacing the joints. If the stock joints were already bad then it would be a good idea to get an alignment once you put the new joints in.

My stock joints were not in bad shape so I had no problems.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:58 pm

Can I order new CVs from NAPA or do I have to go to the dealer? I understand CVs from Pep Boys and the like are garbage.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:06 am

Can I order new CVs from NAPA or do I have to go to the dealer? I understand CVs from Pep Boys and the like are garbage.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Wed Jul 01, 2009 3:10 am

I am posting the FSM pages that outline the replacement process. There seems to be a lot more steps in the FSM than tjkj2002 posted. I prefer his outline by far but why does the FSM make it seem much more complex? What's the deal with the special tool?

Sport · **Posted:** Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:10 am

How much play in a CV would be considered excessive? I can move my passenger roughly 1/4" in either direction.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:43 am

yellocoyote wrote:

JL - are you replacing the innards of your current cv's or the unit altogether? If you're replacing the unit (which IS much easier), you don't need all that other stuff you posted.

I'm going to replace the whole shebang

sidewayskj · **Posted:** Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:13 pm

Hey I can tell you that if you have any mechanical ability you can change a half shaft cv because I did it 2 weeks ago with never doing it before. Just order a napa half shafts and be done with it. The passenger side has a inner axle shaft with clips on it to clip into the diff and to the half shaft to make up for the offset front diff, that just pulls you in one shot with the half shaft and inner shaft usually come out together. Check the shape of the clips and make sure they are there. You just pull them apart the inner and half shaft. The drivers side is one piece which you will get if you order the driver half shaft. Look at this how to for a reference it helped me http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=28922. I didn't use that front end kit that everyone is posting but to each his own. Left the brakes on and rotor and tie rod and just moved it out of the way to change out the cv instead of pulling it off. When you get to pulling and installing of the new half shaft have an extra hand around to help move control arms out of the way and guide the cv in without having the boot touch anything. Happy wrenching

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Thu Jul 02, 2009 4:29 pm

I ordered the parts from NAPA. Didn't have the cool kids CV axles in stock but they should be in today. I was also successful in recruiting the help of a mechanic who works at one of my old JL accounts. He's going to help me put them in next weekend in their shop that has a lift and everything. I am so glad that I hooked him up with amps and subs for his truck back in 2007! So I should be good to go for the "MOAB Cool Kids Run" coming up on 7/17.

The dealer wanted $300 for the axles plus labor.

NAPA wanted $64 and $72 plus $123 core charge per axle.

It's the law of karma: put coolness out and coolness will return to you 3 fold.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Thu Jul 02, 2009 7:04 pm

I opened the box from one axle and there are installation instructions in the box.

Help a brother out; CV axles

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