Ok something is definatly breaking on the KJ, need help diagnosing.

Symptoms.

1. When accelerating hard 3rpms plus. I get a shake shudder. Soft acceleration nothing.

2. When turning left I hear a clunk sometimes. And sometimes after left turn or no turn at all just forward acceleration i get clanking, sounds like a BB rattling around in a can. Does not happen allt he time.

3. Rotors do vibrate when braking at higher speeds. this has been happening for a while.


OK guys thanks ahead of time for any input.


O ya mods on my jeep in case you need to know.

Frankenlift 2 premium
cooper STT 245/75 r16
TJM 17 front bumper no winch yet

vehicle is at 62k
and its a 2006 sport


Only problem I have had so far was the front axle gasket which i fixed

CV shafts... replace 'em

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Former CRD owner... now I just sit around and stare at the wall.

I was afraid of that......OK another question than is it beneficial to get the JBA cut shafts or just get stocks as theya re half the price of the JBA cut ones

for the brake, replace the rotors and pads to fix the vibration issues.
You will be in that place already, so it not much more work.

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2008 Liberty Limited 4X4 Command Trac 2
All stock Auto with 235/60/18

Ok, not to hijack but this seems a little coincidental, I am also getting a weird vibration and slight shudder around the 10 to 15 mph range. I feel it mostly when I come to a stop and hit that MPH range. I do not hear any clunking or clanking.

I do have a nail in my tire that I have to get out and patch but that has been there for a little while not sure if it would cause all that vib.

what do you think, cv as well?

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06 White KJ Sport 4x4
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2432458/1

If the clunking is so loud that you buddy hears it on the trail over his Rick James CD, it's the CV

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2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

OK so replaced the Cv axles, rotors and pads. Rotors work great.


But after getting all down I am now getting a clunking when I accelerate hard in other words the vibration is worse when throtlling it. any other suggestions?

BUmp help

I had this problem also. The tools that did work on my front diff forgot to tighten the front bracket down (FL is a bit of a talent vacuum) so when I mashed the accelerator, the diff would hit my skid. I tightened the bolt and it went away. Then it came back; then it was discovered that my tcase was hitting it's skid since it was bent (darn MOPAR skids). Pulled the skid away and it went away. Then it came back; now I'm replacing the CV axles.

There's also a good chance your motor mounts are toast, if that's the case, you wouldn't be the first.

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2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

O one more thing to note when driving if I hit a pretty good bump Ill get the thunk thunk thunk, or when accelerating hard thunk thunk thunk

SO my thoughts now rest on
1. motor mounts
2. drive shaft (front)

any suggestions very welcome

Time to start checking suspension bolts,F/R driveshafts,motor mounts,and front and rear balljoints(upper trilink has a balljoint).

All of my front suspension was checked when I put in teh new CV's today as I completely removed it than reinstalled it, torqued everything to specs.

Ill go check the rear ball joints..

As far as motor mounts I would not even know where to begin. (how do I check these)

To note my drive shaft has some play in it. feels kinda sloppy. Cannot force it up down or side to side but in rotation it moves a good 1-2"

Ok so went to check all my balljoints again front and rear they are all good but while i was under their i noticed a doo doo ton of grease blasted all over the place right by my front passenger side cv axle. Yup apparently it blew part of the seal theirs a big hole in the rubber outer joint. I dont know if I got a bad part from napa and that waht is causing the new clunking or if it is still something else and I just have to replace the CV I just put in today.. Dam Im frustrated

Well, if your CV is all blowed up, it wont make sense to chase down other stuff until it's fixed. I just bought CVs from NAPA. Did you buy new ones or remanufactured? Some dude I know whose pretty smart about such things says the remans are better because they're original so you know they will be right. The new ones are often wrong.

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2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

They where the new ones, Ya I will prbably have to reinstall a new one tommorrow

OK so cant replace my brand new broken CV till tuesday and cant get my jeep in to get looked at until monday so it sits broken for the weekend.

Napa will warranty the new broken cv but cant get another replacment till tue as with the holiday and getting it shipped in from seattle.

So monday morning I will drop it off at my mechanic and let them check things out. Their gonna check all the motor mounts, driveline, gear box etc etc and I will probably just have them replace the dam CV as I will probably strap C4 to the dam Jeep if it gives me anymore problems

Ok so the mechanic tore into my jeep heres whats wrong.

The brand new cv axle on passenger side I just put in was completely destroyed after 35miles on it.
due tooo
1. angle of axles with frankenlift 2 premium on front only
2. the bushings that hold the housing where the CV shafts Insert were blown out causing excessive movement, which greatly contributed to the axle being destroyed.

Other than that the front is fine...Problem, new bushings are on other side of country overnighting them...theirs goes all my $$$$

and also my rear drive shaft joint is going out so ill have that fixed too thats pretty cheap compared to everything else


So question what can I do to decrease the angle of my CV's other than lowering my jeep. Now I ahve only had my F2P on for about 2 months so I imagine it will settle a little more, but is their anything else I can do so im not going through new CVs every couple months?

Have you driven it offroad and flexed it till it settles a bit? Many say that you need to pound on it for it to settle a bit. Before you do that-- it is waay high. You can't do anything to decrease the cv angle besides lower the whole Jeep or lower the subframe where the front axle sits.

Mechanics are very quick to blame the lift for everything (and the lift's do cause problems). They also said the bushings were shot. I would suspect that had as much to do with it.

You could also get the clearanced CV's and be more future proof.

Clearanced CV's? you mean teh cut down ones from JBA or JE Reel?

where are you getting your new joint from? Got a part number?

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06 White KJ Sport 4x4
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2432458/1

No Idea yet, I'll probably do that myself, Napa has them fairly inexpensive. My u-joint has a little movement in it, it will hold up for a little while yet So I will replace that at the end of the month with my next paycheck. Since I have spent a fortune fixing the CV axles and Bushings that I had to have overnighted otherwise jeep would have been Inmobile for a week. And that dosnt work when Im going on a expedition starting thursday..

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&CatId=8&SubCatId=1