OK so the shop put in the new bushings and passenger side cv axle, but apparently its still binding up real bad..

Their the new aftermarket CV axles from NAPA. Any help, what in the world can be causing this.....Like i said I jsut have the frankenlift 2 premium NO clevis lift or anything.. Why would mine be binding so bad. And its only passenger side the drivers side is fine

I know that after market CVs are known to be manufactured incorrectly much more often than not. From what I've read, the length is what's most-often wrong (90% of the time according to resident expert). Remanufactured CV's are highly recommended since they are the original part. I have no idea if it's the cause of your problems though.

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Ok heres the deal after a long day arguing with the shop and talking to people back east this is what it breaks down too.


1. My old CV's are going back in lol
2. Napa CV's are manufactured 1" to 1/2" longer than OEM, with lift causes excessive binding and instant breakage of Napa CV's ( me Pissed after 6 days of jeep broken.
3. I now ahve a 501$ bill fromt eh mechanic, and original 350$ bill for all the parts I bought last week. (rotors cvs pads) (me super pissed and extremely broke now)
4. Im billing Napa and filing a claim for mechanic bill and labor due to bad manufacturing of parts...

And again me not very happy (drinking beer to improve mood)

And that's why I always say to buy remaned CV's since they are rebuilt OEM CV's and not "new" ones that are either to long or to short.The only "new" CV's that I would ever recommend are new OEM CV's,you know those are the right ones but will pay for them also.I went through this whole ordeal a few months ago with a KJ and a Nissan car and those "new" CV's that cost $100 and I posted a big warning also on this board(not my vehicles but customers).There is a big difference between the "new" CV's and remaned CV's.

Here is the thread...............
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=38225&highlight=cvs

O I really wish I had read that post bro, if I had I would never have bought Napa CV's. Actually I f I had read it I would ahve probably bought the JBA cut down ones instead but I thought i could save money with NAPA and ended up costing me a doo doo ton more....

It's not only the "new" Napa ones but all auto parts stores "new" CV's that are that way.There all made in China at the same place anyways,for those "new" CV's anyway.

Well it really sucks bro and i wish I had done more research on here and found the post you made about it, but live and learn thats the way it goes.

I just hope that Napa will reimburse the bill as I will be fileing a claim with them tommorrow, and it sounds from the way I talked to them today that this has been done before so we will see

They won't reimburse you.

There is a reason they have a lifetime warranty

sounds like recall coming in sept on lower ball joints,

You are probably right TBJ but its worth a try.

Ok got the jeep back its running got my old axles back sending napa axles back with vengenance.

Taking the jeep out to flex it this weekend

only thing left to do is order new JBA CV's
and put a new rear U joint in

gonna get drunk and try not to think about all the dam problems i had with the jeep this last week

Only one rear u-joint?

At any rate...this has got to be an easily solved problem. What is it doing now? Same thing?

Remember what Chris said about the splines on the shaft going into the diff itself? Were those looked at?

Ya did the U joint today when I got back from camping, runs smooth now. ( lol my U joint was smoked, the bearings where almost powedered)

Still have one Napa CV in the driver side that one is actually working ok. ( will be pulling it soon I just dont trust their products anymore)

Got my old CV in the passenger side(as Napa could not manufacture the Passenger side one the right length, tried 3 replacements before I told them to F off), I get a little vibration from it as my CV's where pretty worn out, but it will hold up until I get some JBA cut down CV's

If you can find your local machine shop they more than likely will fix your CV's for about $20 each. you will just have to take them off you KJ on your own. As far as the noise that you are hearing... I would bet on it that your Rear Upper ball joint is bad in the mibble of the upeer control arm along with the Body Mount bushings on each side of the arm(which looks like a big V above your rear differential). This will cause noise or clacking and you turn and the kj pivots transfering weight from side to side. might sound like steel agains steel. The ball joint and bushing will run you $125 from you local dealer. My .02 cause it has happened to me. Also just check you universal joints.

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