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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 3:04 pm 
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The problem that you are having is a classic case of a failing/failed torque converter, and/or issue with the front pump of the transmission. You can hear the engine lug down when put into gear, the engine slowly chugs more, and the load from the transmission is greater than can be compensated for by the low-idle governor and the engine stalls.

I would suggest taking it to a dealer that can not only install gauges in the pressure ports on the trans but also monitor the various trans pressures from the DRB to tell you if it's the pump or not. If not the pump, definitely the converter.

If you say that it's done this since new and you've not had the F37 done, I would recommend to have it done so that you get the newer converter and the corresponding pump.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 5:47 pm 
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MrMopar64 wrote:
The problem that you are having is a classic case of a failing/failed torque converter, and/or issue with the front pump of the transmission. You can hear the engine lug down when put into gear, the engine slowly chugs more, and the load from the transmission is greater than can be compensated for by the low-idle governor and the engine stalls.

I would suggest taking it to a dealer that can not only install gauges in the pressure ports on the trans but also monitor the various trans pressures from the DRB to tell you if it's the pump or not. If not the pump, definitely the converter.

If you say that it's done this since new and you've not had the F37 done, I would recommend to have it done so that you get the newer converter and the corresponding pump.


Thanks for the info, that also crossed my mind seeing as it is mostly when it is shifted into drive. After many attempted drive (this time it wouldn't go any where for me and I had to tow it home with my TJ) it would also stall in park and that kind of freaked me out but it was only after trying to start and put it in D about 20 times.

I'm going to attempt to drive it up to the trans shop that fixed the mystery problem with the trans last time. He should also be able to pull the CEL. My guess he will also be able to monitor pressures and check the pump. He helped me a bunch when my trans screwed up last time, he a good 8 hours of searching for the problem and when it started to shift right, he didn't know for sure what he did to fix it so he didn't charge me. The jeep has been shifting great ever since (knock on wood).

Thanks for the info Mr.Mopar.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 12:33 am 
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painemann wrote:
MrMopar64 wrote:
The problem that you are having is a classic case of a failing/failed torque converter, and/or issue with the front pump of the transmission. You can hear the engine lug down when put into gear, the engine slowly chugs more, and the load from the transmission is greater than can be compensated for by the low-idle governor and the engine stalls.

I would suggest taking it to a dealer that can not only install gauges in the pressure ports on the trans but also monitor the various trans pressures from the DRB to tell you if it's the pump or not. If not the pump, definitely the converter.

If you say that it's done this since new and you've not had the F37 done, I would recommend to have it done so that you get the newer converter and the corresponding pump.


Thanks for the info, that also crossed my mind seeing as it is mostly when it is shifted into drive. After many attempted drive (this time it wouldn't go any where for me and I had to tow it home with my TJ) it would also stall in park and that kind of freaked me out but it was only after trying to start and put it in D about 20 times.

I'm going to attempt to drive it up to the trans shop that fixed the mystery problem with the trans last time. He should also be able to pull the CEL. My guess he will also be able to monitor pressures and check the pump. He helped me a bunch when my trans screwed up last time, he a good 8 hours of searching for the problem and when it started to shift right, he didn't know for sure what he did to fix it so he didn't charge me. The jeep has been shifting great ever since (knock on wood).

Thanks for the info Mr.Mopar.


unless he has a DRB or a DRBII he won't be able to get the codes... your cel is prolly a P0700 which is a ECU general Transmission fault code.. you have to get into the TCU to get the true code... Snap-on/Mac scanners won't do it... i've tried 3 different shops all with the latest upgrade on the software

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:21 am 
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Autoenginuty Advanced module can read the TCM codes too.

Paineman: If your truck has not had the F37 done to it, PM ME if you are going to have them do it so you can get the new converter.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:22 am 
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painemann wrote:
MrMopar64 wrote:
The problem that you are having is a classic case of a failing/failed torque converter, and/or issue with the front pump of the transmission. You can hear the engine lug down when put into gear, the engine slowly chugs more, and the load from the transmission is greater than can be compensated for by the low-idle governor and the engine stalls.

I would suggest taking it to a dealer that can not only install gauges in the pressure ports on the trans but also monitor the various trans pressures from the DRB to tell you if it's the pump or not. If not the pump, definitely the converter.

If you say that it's done this since new and you've not had the F37 done, I would recommend to have it done so that you get the newer converter and the corresponding pump.


Thanks for the info, that also crossed my mind seeing as it is mostly when it is shifted into drive. After many attempted drive (this time it wouldn't go any where for me and I had to tow it home with my TJ) it would also stall in park and that kind of freaked me out but it was only after trying to start and put it in D about 20 times.

I'm going to attempt to drive it up to the trans shop that fixed the mystery problem with the trans last time. He should also be able to pull the CEL. My guess he will also be able to monitor pressures and check the pump. He helped me a bunch when my trans screwed up last time, he a good 8 hours of searching for the problem and when it started to shift right, he didn't know for sure what he did to fix it so he didn't charge me. The jeep has been shifting great ever since (knock on wood).

Thanks for the info Mr.Mopar.


...well, it's a shame that it wasn't as simple as a fuel filter change.

I assume the F37 is something the dealer does for free. It seems that the dealer near you may not be of much trustworthy help. I bought my CRD from Szott M-59 in White Lake, MI. It's a bit of a haul from here in Sanford, but they seemed to do well with the work I've had done in the past. I know they sold a fair number of CRDs. There's also Martin Jeep in Alma, MI. I know they sold a few CRDs themselves, but I have no experience with their service department. The Feeney dealership here in Midland was recently branded a Jeep dealer. They didn't sell CRDs new, but they do have diesel techs available since they are able to service the Cummins in the Rams. I don't have personal experience with their service departments, but the people I know who have gone there, haven't major complaints.

I don't know how much this helps since I don't know where you are in MI. However, if a dealership will fix your tranny for free, you might want to consider that route. If it is undriveable and you have AAA, they will subsidize the cost of the tow from where ever it is to the appropriately place that can do the repair...within reasonable limits of mileage of course.

Good luck.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 5:21 pm 
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Thanks for all the help guys. I have it up at the trans shop and he looked into it today but didn't do any pressure testing yet. He also couldn't get the CEL, he need to get a guy that he works with from another shop to do because he has the better scanner.

The guy at the shop said he talked to is suppler and did some research and (like we all already know) the jeep is known for TC problems. Now He said he can get me the TC for around $200 and he seems to not thing that the Suncoast TC ($695) is not worth it seeing as the jeep is a light duty jeep and isn't a race truck. (yeah I know its a gas TC with a diesel motor, more torque) So is the Suncoast TC worth the money? He also said labor would be around $400 for the install, so a total of about $650 for the replacement. That seems a little high seeing I should be able to drop the trans my self and all I need to do is slap the TC on and shove it back in.

Who has done the replacement them selves? Is it a straight forward job, any hits or things to worry about when replacing the TC? I have a hoist to work on, and I have tools, does replacement require any special tools?

Thanks!

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-05 Dark Khaki Limited CRD. GDE ECO tune. In-tank lift pump, Transgo doo doo kit, B&M trans cooler, replaced trans solenoid pack and filters, Newer Michelin tires, Timing belt with all related parts replaced at 110,000miles.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 12:44 am 
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Find out first about the F37 YOU could have a TC and a pump for free. If I were you I would not take it to that shop. If you change the TC, you will have to replaced the Fluid pump.

Sun coast Tc is the way to go with the new pump; To replaced it you have to know how. it is not as simple as you think; The must difficult time that I has with it was with the tube that you check the fluid with. If the shop that you go to do the job; Labor, TC and pump, etc. will cost you about $1400.00 and do not forget to put new fluid ATF+4. about 15qt.

If you want to do the job that will last you forever then replaced the shifters with a Trasgo kit HD2 you can get it at the Suncoast dealer for half the price.

Good lock.
Nescosmo......... :D :D :D


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 3:50 pm 
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I have not had good luck getting mine worked on at the Jeep dealer, but I've found a (now former) Dodge dealer whose service people have forgotten a lot more about diesels than the Jeep dealer's techs will ever learn. You might look for a Dodge dealer nearby. You might also consider finding a Detroit Diesel truck shop, as the engine in the CRD is made by a Detroit Diesel subsidiary, and those guys might be expected to know more about what they are doing.

Certainly the fuel filter was not a waste of time to replace. Had to be done.

The stalling problem, however, brings up the question: does it just suddenly stall after you've been sitting there for a while, or does it happen when you slow down to stop, and it feels like the torque converter is not unlocking and allowing the slippage necessary to keep the engine running? There's been an issue with the torque converters and tranny valve-bodies in these things that results in the latter behavior. You might also check to see if yours has had the F37 recall done. This replaced the torque converter to increase reliability, and if it has not been done, might solve the problem. Do be aware that some folks do not LIKE that recall, as one of the details is that the engine is detuned just a hair to decrease torque at certain points in the shift pattern. Makes the thing more driveable, but some folks prefer the ability to spin all 4 wheels suddenly when taking off from a stop.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 5:57 pm 
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Paineman: If the problem is your TC, you may be able to get it replaced for free at the dealer. My dealer replaced mine a couple of months ago under the TSB warranty. They claim that the TSB items like the TC will be replaced as many times as needed just like official recall items such as the ball joints.

It seems that you have a prejudice against dealers doing work on your vehicle. It sounds like your current mechanic is more clueless than most dealers. At least the dealer has a scanner which can read your codes, and have likely replaced more jeep TCs than the guy you are going to now.

If it is free I would certainly go for it.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 9:30 am 
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If you are going to change the fuel filter and you go to the dealership, demand that they replace it under warranty/RECALL as the fuel filter head takes in air and causes fire.
They should be aware of this and if they aren't tell them to research it on the Chrysler network. It's a factory service bulletin. It is to be changed free of charge, regardless of warranty coverage.
If it is still stalling like mine it is probably the trans. That's what mine has been narrowed down to. You can check the "stalling" thread and the help I have gotten. Great forum.
That's just my $.02

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 1:04 pm 
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NJCRD wrote:
If you are going to change the fuel filter and you go to the dealership, demand that they replace it under warranty/RECALL as the fuel filter head takes in air and causes fire.
They should be aware of this and if they aren't tell them to research it on the Chrysler network. It's a factory service bulletin. It is to be changed free of charge, regardless of warranty coverage.
If it is still stalling like mine it is probably the trans. That's what mine has been narrowed down to. You can check the "stalling" thread and the help I have gotten. Great forum.
That's just my $.02


The dealer must replace the filter head upon request, even if the connector isn't leaking fuel?

- Chris

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 1:10 pm 
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Yes. Similar to the ball joint recall. Even Liberty's that were out of warranty were replaced because of the impending danger associated with the part in question.
Toyota honored a recall on my girlfriend's 1991 Toyota 4Runner. The head gaskets were known to go and after a major recall Toyota ate the cost and replaced the head gaskets without charge on a truck with over 160,000 miles. (That was only a year ago)
Be firm with the service writer. Make them call corporate if they're not familiar with the CRDs. The technical service bulletin is on the dealer accessible web site.

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Skid Row Engine and Fuel Tank Skid Plates, straight pipe, modified air box, Tow Hooks, 245/70/16 Hankook ATM RF10s, Kennedy Lift Pump,Home Made Provent, Husky Liners throughout, Wet Okole seat covers, All J Products Rear Storage Shelf, Fumoto, Frozen Rotors-Cross Drilled and Slotted, and Bilsteins all around


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 12:35 am 
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GO TO A DEALER! I agree with all of these remarks. It's a great Jeep and you need to know if F37 was fixed. Even if it WAS done, there may be a chance it went again, and you can get the new TC.


Wait... I need to look into this for myself. I want the new TC!

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 5:54 pm 
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Ok well this seems crazy but while I went on vacation I dropped the jeep off at a small shop that was recommended to me by a few people. He works with the trans shop and helps with computer and motor issues. I was told he is one of the best drive ability guys around. He said he had worked on one other CRD before and it was an EGR issue, but it helped knowing he has at least seen one.
He was super busy and he ended up calling me about a week after I dropped it off, he fixed it! It was not the TC. It was the wiring harness that is draped over the top of the engine, the one that is help down by dump little push clips onto studs. He drove it around with his scanner hooked up and got stuck in a parking lot, he said he definitely had to do some brainstorming with it! He noticed that the fuel solenoid lost voltage when put in gear. Figured that it had to be a wiring harness, found a rub in the big harness that runs down behind the alternator, it rubs on a sharp point on the intake. He filed down the sharp spot, fixed up the three wires that had rubbed through (could have also caused my prior problem with my trans going nuts-it was fixed by playing with harnesses), then he put some extra wire loom. FIXED. And he didn't charge me much!

If anyone that lives near lower MI needs help like this let me know and I'll tell you were to find him.

Thanks for all the help guys, It's fixed. Knock on Wood!

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-05 Dark Khaki Limited CRD. GDE ECO tune. In-tank lift pump, Transgo doo doo kit, B&M trans cooler, replaced trans solenoid pack and filters, Newer Michelin tires, Timing belt with all related parts replaced at 110,000miles.


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