This is an appeal to all those that service your own transmission. This is my first automatic; I have never serviced an automatic before. I have some basic questions, so I can avoid paying my mechanic $250 to do it.

How necessary is a flush vs. just drain, filter change, and refill?

HOW DO YOU REFILL? ( )

Is it just a spin-on filter (as I have been told at every auto parts store I have gone to) or is there a pancake filter in there too?

Can anyone give a good A to B to C to D rundown of doing this service - some instructions I can follow as I enter into the heretofore untrod waters of opening up an automatic trans?

I hit 52,000 miles today. The service manual doesn't even show a transmission service interval, but I am halfway inclined to believe that is because DCX never thought anyone would own these that long. Do I really need to do this?

And if so, does anyone know where I can get a pan that has a drainplug in it?

_________________
In this war of lines, so many have been crossed. Where will it all stop?

2006 Deep Beryl Green CRD Sport *SOLD 1/22/12*
Provent, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Samcos, GDE ECO & TCM Tune, Euro JK TC, Magnaflow Catback
245/70/16 Destination A/T's
Boiler's Radiator Skid Plate
Jeepin' By Al 2.5 inch Adjust-A-Strut Lift, JBA Gen 4.5 UCA's (6/5/10)

Check this out for the answers to a few of your questions.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=44480

Edit: nevermind, I see you already posted in that thread.

_________________
05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

From the Service Manual:

FLUID AND FILTER REPLACEMENT
For proper service intervals (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES - DESCRIPTION).
REMOVAL
1. Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
2. Place a large diameter shallow drain pan beneath the transmission pan.
3. Remove bolts holding front and sides of pan to transmission.
4. Loosen bolts holding rear of pan to transmission.
5. Slowly separate front of pan away from transmission allowing the fluid to drain into drain pan.
6. Hold up pan and remove remaining bolts holding pan to transmission.
7. While holding pan level, lower pan away from transmission.
8. Pour remaining fluid in pan into drain pan.
9. Remove the screw holding the primary oil filter (1)
to valve body.
10. Separate filter from valve body and oil pump and
pour fluid in filter into drain pan.
11. Inspect the oil filter seal in the bottom of the oil
pump. If the seal is not installed completely in the
oil pump, or is otherwise damaged, then remove
and discard the oil filter seal from the bottom of
the oil pump. If the seal is installed correctly and
is in good condition, it can be reused.
12. If replacing the cooler return filter (2), use Oil Filter
Wrench 8321 to remove the filter from the
transmission.
13. Dispose of used trans fluid and filter(s) properly.
INSPECTION
Inspect bottom of pan and magnet for excessive amounts of metal. A light coating of clutch material on the bottom
of the pan does not indicate a problem unless accompanied by a slipping condition or shift lag. If fluid and pan are
contaminated with excessive amounts of debris, refer to the diagnosis section of this group.
CLEANING
1. Using a suitable solvent, clean pan and magnet.
2. Using a suitable gasket scraper, clean original sealing material from surface of transmission case and the transmission
pan.

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The primary oil filter seal MUST be fully
installed flush against the oil pump body. DO NOT
install the seal onto the filter neck and attempt to
install the filter and seal as an assembly. Damage
to the transmission will result.
1. If necessary, install a new primary oil filter seal in
the oil pump inlet bore. Seat the seal in the bore
with a suitable tool (appropriately sized drift or
socket, the butt end of a hammer, or other suitable
tool).
2. Place replacement filter in position on valve body
and into the oil pump.
3. Install screw to hold the primary oil filter (1) to
valve body. Tighten screw to 4.5 N·m (40 in. lbs.)
torque.
4. Install new cooler return filter (2) onto the transmission, if necessary. Torque the filter to 9.5 N·m (7 ft.lbs.).
5. Place bead of MoparT RTV sealant onto the transmission case sealing surface.
6. Place pan in position on transmission.
7. Install bolts to hold pan to transmission. Tighten bolts to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) torque.
8. Lower vehicle and fill transmission with MOPART ATF +4.
TRANSMISSION FILL
To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:
1. Remove dipstick and insert clean funnel in transmission fill tube.
2. Add following initial quantity of MoparT ATF +4 to transmission:
a. If only fluid and filter were changed, add 10 pints (5 quarts) of ATF +4 to transmission.
b. If transmission was completely overhauled and the torque converter was replaced or drained, add 24 pints
(12 quarts) of ATF +4 to transmission.
3. Check the transmission fluid (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/AUTOMATIC - RFE/FLUID - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
and adjust as required.

Thank you both very much, that helps. This is, to me anyway, a rather daunting task. CATCRD, like you said in the thread you linked, the transmission is a weak link. Maybe that is why I am so nervous. It was a good reminder - dgeist's suggestion of using a siphon pump to remove as much of the fluid as possible before dropping the pan.

So do I refill the trans via the dipstick opening?

_________________
In this war of lines, so many have been crossed. Where will it all stop?

2006 Deep Beryl Green CRD Sport *SOLD 1/22/12*
Provent, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Samcos, GDE ECO & TCM Tune, Euro JK TC, Magnaflow Catback
245/70/16 Destination A/T's
Boiler's Radiator Skid Plate
Jeepin' By Al 2.5 inch Adjust-A-Strut Lift, JBA Gen 4.5 UCA's (6/5/10)

Its not bad, just remember there are two filters in the transmission.

You refill it via the dip stick tube on the back left of the engine.

While doing this you could 'upgrade' by going with the PML pan or put a drain plug in your stock pan, it does make life alot easier when its time to drain!

_________________
Ryan
2006 Ford F-250 PSD CC FX4
**GONE**
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
SAMCO Hoses//GDE Tune//PML Trans Pan//TransGo HD Shift Kit//MBRP Exhaust

1986 2R Mustang SVO

My trans fluid has not been changed yet. (I'm at 70,000miles) I know that the trans is a weak link (I had the TC recall completed at about 50k). I was going to wait until the manual listed interval (100k?), but now I want to ask if anyone here has had to do their trans early.


I drive pretty light. I have changed the dif fluid and Transfer case fluid twice. The tranny fluid looks good on the dipstick. Should I be more concerned about the trans? Has anyone changed their flui and found it to be pretty messed up?

_________________
2005 Black KJ Sport CRD,
GDE Full Torque ECO TUNE, GDE Transmission ECO Tune,
Samco British Racing Green Hoses
Build Date 1/05
200k miles.
Original Owner

Mine was very clean when I changed it around 55K. I didn't even have any film in the pan, which is unusual in my limited experience.

_________________
2006 CRD Limited
SEGR Mod
Saikou Michi Condenser -- Deleted
Samco Hose Kit
Fumoto 102
Etecno1 GX3123 Steel 7V Glow Plugs
GDE FT Eco and Hot Tunes
JBA 4.5 UCAs
OME Lift

It's the TORQUE CONVERTER that is the weak link, not the transmission

_________________
Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

I just did this to my CRD and was confused by all the instructions regarding the oil filter seal. The screw on filter had a seal just like any oil filter. The flat filter just pushed into place. Did I miss something?

the only thing I can recall is that sometimes the old seal stays behind and you don't notice, put on the new filter and now the new filter doesn't seal completely.

_________________
Ryan
2006 Ford F-250 PSD CC FX4
**GONE**
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
SAMCO Hoses//GDE Tune//PML Trans Pan//TransGo HD Shift Kit//MBRP Exhaust

1986 2R Mustang SVO

depends on the build day... i think i got a friday afternoon or monday morning hangover transmission.... mine was rebuilt at 56K

_________________
Trevor

'05 Limited CRD Inferno Red Pearl Coat
Home made provent installed @ 35443, SEGR installed @ 35466, Fumoto valve @ 37500, trans and transfer case skid, In tank pump installed @ 43500, Suncoast TC & Transgo Shift Kit @ 44730, EGT, Boost, Trans temp gauges, Samco hoses, Rebuilt Trans w/ HD454RFE kit @ 56K, Inmotion Stage 2 @ 56K

If you had your TC replaced at 50K, then you only have 20k on your present fluid.

Dave

I always keep in mind that the people who write the service intervals are the same people who want you to buy a new vehicle when yours wears out. Waiting until 100k miles is unwise IMO, if you are a person who keeps your vehicles for a long time.

_________________
05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

I hope they replaced my TC. Was that a guaranteed part of the recall? I know they reflashed the computer because it changed the shift pattern. (TC locks at 61 mph now) They did replace the trans control module though because it wouldn't accept the flash. Does the new TC require a full trans flush?

_________________
2005 Black KJ Sport CRD,
GDE Full Torque ECO TUNE, GDE Transmission ECO Tune,
Samco British Racing Green Hoses
Build Date 1/05
200k miles.
Original Owner

Couple years ago...at 36,800 miles...my TC crapped out and took the trans with it...all replace for the cost of my $100 8/80 deductible.

_________________
Brian, Blue KJ in PA
LOST#99, Mid-Atlantic LOST
Blue 2003 KJ Sport

RL Super Skinks

I don't know that it "requires" a flush per say, but all of your fluid would have been replaced if your TC was replaced.

Dave

LW,if you want some help servicing your tranny,I'd be glad to help.Seems everyone comes to my house to work on their vehicles.The oil spots in the driveway must be pretty inviting.Anyway,I just did a tranny drop/filter change on my friends Chevy truck the other weekend.I'd like to get my hands inside of one of those buggers.(This offer goes out to Kntrygurl also),I know you've been having tranny probs lately.
Just a month or so I went to my Dad's and he tought me how they do a flush(My Steel bumper hinders my abillity to flush)
so i just pumped all I could manage out of there and replaced with fresh fluid.I would like to do this one more time just for the halibut.If I help to change yours,I'm sure I'll do mine the following week.
Why you looking to change the filter so soon?What's your mileage?

_________________
Bub
06 Inop Edition CRD Silver
06 Inop Edition CRD Green

If you're not off roading or towing a trailer - 100k miles is ok for ATF +4. I ran the validation for ATF +4.

'Course I tow and trail and I can't remember when I've checked my ATF...

_________________
2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift 1000. 225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers, Ipod kit & seat covers, Samco hoses - totaled and gone. 2008 WK Laredo 3.0L diesel - AirLift 1000, wife won't let me mess with it much. 2013 JK Sahara on order.

Hey Bub!. Been busy lately - put my Magnaflow catback on over the weekend. Much throatier sound and easier acceleration. Would have been a LOT easier if I'd had the beastie on a lift, though.

I'm all for a project day, maybe say 8/22, or Labor Day weekend. I figure if I'm going to drop the trans pan, I'm going to go ahead and put in a Transgo shift kit, replace the pan with a PML, and (time permitting) go ahead and do the transfer case and both diffs. Maybe put a PML on my rear diff too. I cannot understand why the stock diff does not have a drain plug. That's ridiculous, in my opinion.

As for the filters, I figure if I'm going to open it up, I might as well go all the way - thus the thought of doing the Transgo as well. I will cross 53,000 late this week or early next week. If I stay at this pace, I will have put 31,000 miles on it in the year I have had it - the last thing I want is to be on the side of I-10 between I-55 and US 61 with a bombed tranny.

The opinions seem to be all over the place on when it is necessary to do this, but I am pretty determined to go ahead and get it done and put it behind me till I hit 100K. I'd rather not tempt fate, you know?

_________________
In this war of lines, so many have been crossed. Where will it all stop?

2006 Deep Beryl Green CRD Sport *SOLD 1/22/12*
Provent, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Samcos, GDE ECO & TCM Tune, Euro JK TC, Magnaflow Catback
245/70/16 Destination A/T's
Boiler's Radiator Skid Plate
Jeepin' By Al 2.5 inch Adjust-A-Strut Lift, JBA Gen 4.5 UCA's (6/5/10)

LW,I'm game for a project day,you might want to start a thread in the southern section in case anyone
else wants in.
I can't do the PML due to clearance issues,but what is this Transgo you speak of.Sounds interresting.
How much,where do I get one,and why do I want one.

_________________
Bub
06 Inop Edition CRD Silver
06 Inop Edition CRD Green