I finally installed my turbo timer today. It's from SP diesel and very simple. You have 1 button and 4 leds. Green led for operation, led A for operation of the relay, led B to let you know the time it will run and yellow led for "slurpee mode". If you just shut the key, it will run for 1 minute. If you want it to run longer, just press on the button and it will run for up to 5 minutes. If you hold the button, it will run up to 1 hour. (in case you go to the convenience store and want to let your KJ run, it's called slurpee mode). If you touch the brakes, the engine shuts down. The installation is very easy: 5 wires: batt power (red wire pin 1, there's 2 red wires on ignition connector) , the systems it powers ((pink/lt green wire from ignition), a ground (any good metallic chassis part), a keyed 12V (you can use one of the pink/yellow wire from the ignition connector but I got the signal from the light bar switch) and the brake switch signal (white/brown wire from the brake switch connector). There's also 2 accessories wires if you want to power up a system through a relay while you let your jeep run. This timer only costs 50$ on ebay, I think it's a small price comparing to the price of a turbo. For more infos:http://www.spdiesel.com/shutdown_timer.htm

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2006 CRD KJ, 245/70R16 A/T KO, GDE eco tune, ARB bull bar, OME lift, AVIC-N4, turbo timer, pulsetech solargizer, Racor CCV3500, Racor 245R122 fuel head, Caterpillar battery, oem light bar, KC lights, HID fog lts, cb, ...

That's cool. I have trouble getting the wife to let in idle down. Do you know if the lift pump will run with the ignition off and the turbo timer letting the engine run? I have the Cummins lift pump installed using the factory wiring circuit. With the 2 micron filter I have, if the pump isn't running, it could cause a little cp3 starvage.

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HERS:'16 WK2 Limited EcoDiesel - GDE hot
HIS: '06 Liberty CRD - EHM , GDE eco, Brite Box, Stanadyne FM100, Cummins lift pump, OME lift
'06 Dodge/Cummins - Play truck; a couple of fans, a proper cam shaft, and man handled electrons by EFILive 500/900
'01 Dodge/Cummins - Work truck; Lots of mods

I think it should work because all the critical systems are on the pink/green wire. in the worst case, you could run a wire from the accessory output from the timer and connect it to the lift pump relay. If you want to do a test, remove fuse 14 in the fuse panel under the hood and see if your lift pump keep on working. if it is, you'll have to use the accessory wire, if it's not, it will work with the normal set-up.

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2006 CRD KJ, 245/70R16 A/T KO, GDE eco tune, ARB bull bar, OME lift, AVIC-N4, turbo timer, pulsetech solargizer, Racor CCV3500, Racor 245R122 fuel head, Caterpillar battery, oem light bar, KC lights, HID fog lts, cb, ...

But if you are doing long hauls an EGT gauge would be a better investment. When I am towing I keep the eye on my EGT gauge and will back it down when I am going up a hill to keep the turbo from frying. When I pull off into a Rest Area or Fuel Stop, my EGT gauge is almost always in the safe zone before I get parked, If not I unhook my seat belt and a couple other things before I shut down. Typically it only takes seconds on a Diesel to cool off the turbo, not minuets.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

OT: Where did you tap for your EGT probe? I'm considering adding an EGT gauge.

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Ryan
2006 Ford F-250 PSD CC FX4
**GONE**
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
SAMCO Hoses//GDE Tune//PML Trans Pan//TransGo HD Shift Kit//MBRP Exhaust

1986 2R Mustang SVO

I hijacked the Photo from SirSams 2.5L VM, but it shows the location where I drilled and tapped. Remember to pack the flutes of the drill and tap with grease to catch the chips, easier than pulling the turbo. GMCTD puts his in a more proper place, but he had to pull the turbo, I did not. Mine I think reads anout 100f high under high load due to being closer to the head.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

What do you define your temp settings as? Safe is what... too hot is what?

I have an EGT probe mounted in the entry of the turbo, probably about an inch from where you have yours indicated. At cruise (not towing) 70mph indicated, 73 GPS, I'm reading right at 1000 degrees and about 7 lbs of boost. If I STOMP on it, the highest I have seen is 1350. In normal driving, the temp drops down to 350 / 400 pretty much anytime I pull my foot off, and it drops within 10 seconds or so. This is bone-stock, without any chips or Edge modules. I'm interested to see how your numbers compare, since the EGT is a new thing for me.

The CRD has also been harder to start since the new engine, and it smokes more on initial startup than the old one did. It doesn't seem to smoke while running normally, but yesterday it felt like I didn't have much power, and it WAS smoking a lot (just before I put on the boost gauge, of course) then 'like flipping a lightswitch' it woke up and has been running fine since. I think I have a glitching sensor, but I don't know which one.

Thoughts?

Mine has spiked to 1400f for about 2 seconds when I was accelerating up a steep hill with a full load on the trailer behind me. My tach was at 3500 RPM, boost at 20 PSI and I had 5 PSI of back pressure between the turbo and the cat. I suspect my temps will drop and boost will go up when I install my Magnaflow Stainless Steel Muffler. My one observation is that high RPMs drive up the EGT more than torque. Using cruse the trans down shifts and revs the engine high, use my foot and I can climb a hill with out having the RPMs going up so high and the EGT is cooler, even going the same speed with the same load up the same hill. The bluffs I have to climb are steep, but not as long as Love-land Pass, perhaps some Love-land Pass climbers with an EGT gauge should report their observations.

Sensor problem could be a plug that is not fully seated or corroded. I have fixed many problems other shops piled on lots of parts to no avail, then all I did was clean a sensor plug. If you can get Wurth Contact-oel (sorry omlots aren't on my keyboard) un plug the sensor plugs, spray, and replug. Other stuff like CRC works but not as fast or as well.

Good luck

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

So what do you consider too hot? Should I be concerned with 1k at steady cruise, or shutting down at 350-450?

Anything over 12K at a steady cruse would alarm me 1K is no problem. Old VWs set the limit at 1350f, I don't like that much heat.
As I put in another post, I suspect our cruse control is a turbo killer when it down shifts and reves up over 3K RPMs, temps go real high, I kicked mine out of cruse when it went up to 1400f. I never would have suspected the problem I found with out my EGT gauge.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Something to consider when letting the turbo cool off, is that even though the EGTs drop to a safe temp very quickly, the turbine snail does not. Cast iron holds a lot of heat and it takes a minute or so with cooler air flowing through the pipes, for the metal to reach a temp which wont scorch oil. If the engine is shut down with a hot turbine, the heat soaks the bearings and cokes the oil.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

What the temperature limit is depends on where you're measuring at:

If measuring in the exhaust manifold (turbine inlet), the engine will run all day long at 1400-1450 fahrenheit with no issues at all.

If measuring downstream of the turbine in the downpipe, you don't wan't much over 1300 fahrenheit but at that temp it will run all day long no issues.

Thanks for that clarification, I wasn't sure what the temp drop would be across the turbo. So since I have mine in the inlet and it is reading between 1000 and 1200 with normal driving, and a max of 1350/1400... Then I'm not doing too bad at all. It will be interesting to see what the numbers are next time I'm towing something decently sized.

It took me a while, but I figured out that the WK diesel has a turbo timer built in...

When I'm pulling the trailer and pull over, shut down vehicle, get out, and hit the remote start. It locks the doors, cranks the engine, and idles for 15 minutes, then shuts down again...

Not it's intended usage, but it works for me.

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2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift 1000. 225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers, Ipod kit & seat covers, Samco hoses - totaled and gone. 2008 WK Laredo 3.0L diesel - AirLift 1000, wife won't let me mess with it much. 2013 JK Sahara on order.

I've gotten in the habit of leaving the KJ running for short stops, refuels or when offroad. I have two keys on one of those quick disconnect key fobs. One key with the remote and one without. (a third key I leave at home and a non-transponder key hidden away)

I always use the key without the remote in the ignition, and when I leave the vehicle, pop the key with the fob into my pocket. I can lock/unlock the doors with the fob so no worries about someone stealing my ride while it sits there idling.

One end of the fob has just the ignition key (no remote) the other end has the remote plus house key so If I forget something I don't have to shut down to get back in the house, and I always seem to forget something. (getting old I guess)

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

I do something similar - I have two non-coded keys that are only capable of opening the driver's door manually, or keeping the engine running ONLY if I start it with the remote starter. I use my remote starter sometimes in a similar fashion to Danoid, but if I'm on a long trip with my cats, I just use the remote key to run the engine and lock the door myself with the dummy key. I can't take the risk that the 15 minutes will be long enough with furry creatures in the car.