Finally, something good to say about 06/post-F37 shift points. I know if mine was in 5th and I was slowing down, it downshifts to 4th at 58 MPH and upshifts about 63 MPH when speed resume.

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2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
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Maybe I'm missing something here, but I can't get it to stay in 4th/locked.

All speeds here are "indicated" rather than actual, just to eliminate a point of confusion.

At 50, mine shifts from 4th to 5th, with rpm dropping to around 2,000. When I hit 58, rpm drops to around 1800, and at 62/63, I'm pulling about 1900 rpm in 5th. Uphill at 62 mph, pressing on the throttle enough to hold speed, the TC unlocks and rpm jumps to 2900. It stays there, TC unlocked unless I back off the throttle a little bit, then rpm will drop to about 2600 as the TC locks up again. If I let the speed drop to about 55, and really mash the pedal, the rpm will jump up to about 3500 and run on up to about 3900 as it accelerates. I know that 3900 is out-of-breath-land.

I am certain that 1800 rpm at 58 is 5th/locked, as (a) I've counted the shifts, and (b) there is no further upshift no matter how fast I go (sans/ trailer, I'm not that dumb).

I tried setting the cruise this morning, and no matter how I do it, it cycles the gears and TC the same as when I'm driving manually. It doesn't shift as often, it just goes through the same speeds/rpms and shift points. But it may have increased my mileage a bit. Couple more tanks will tell.

GDE,

I assume those numbers in your very helpful photo are for a temp gauge in a gauge cluster that has had the reflash.

(I have gone fully into the last red line without AC cut, chime or obvious defueling. Also, I have never heard the fan "roar" people talk about, even having replaced the fan clutch with a new OEM one.)

Could you provide a version of the diagram for non-reflashed gauge clusters?

Thanks,

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

[quote="naturist"]Maybe I'm missing something here, but I can't get it to stay in 4th/locked.

What your missing is the F37 flash

At 50, mine shifts from 4th to 5th, with rpm dropping to around 2,000.

I think it's actually shifting into 4th

When I hit 58, rpm drops to around 1800, and at 62/63, I'm pulling about 1900 rpm in 5th.
I am certain that 1800 rpm at 58 is 5th/locked, as (a) I've counted the shifts, and (b) there is no further upshift no matter how fast I go (sans/ trailer, I'm not that dumb).

This is when the Pre F37 TCM programming shifted.


I tried setting the cruise this morning, and no matter how I do it, it cycles the gears and TC the same as when I'm driving manually. It doesn't shift as often, it just goes through the same speeds/rpms and shift points. But it may have increased my mileage a bit. Couple more tanks will tell.

I think Black Liberty indicated this works with POST F37 TCM's

Please reread CATCRD's post above

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

You can't go as fast as you please and keep the TC locked in 4th. Your 4th gear with lockup lasts from 50 to 58 mph, not 50 to 62 mph like the F37 people.

When it "shifts" at 50 it is already in 4th gear. That shift happened at 34mph. What you feel is the TC lock while it stays in 4th.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

For those vehicles that have not had the cluster updated per TSB 08-043-05 to cure the mis-reading of the coolant temperature, here is how the gauge indicates and the relevant information:



(Click on the picture for the full-size version of course)

If you go to a dealer, the TSB should be applied for free. After the TSB, the gauge will read as it does in the first picture.

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That fits a little better with what I remember.

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2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift 1000. 225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers, Ipod kit & seat covers, Samco hoses - totaled and gone. 2008 WK Laredo 3.0L diesel - AirLift 1000, wife won't let me mess with it much. 2013 JK Sahara on order.

Thanks GDE!

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

Yes, very much. I was very concerned; I feel better now about the strange temperature gauge.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

Mine has officially had the F37 TC replacement and flash. I did not, however, stand over the tech to insure that he did everything. I DID notice after they did it, that it became much more driveable, that is, much less prone to wheelspin on takeoffs.

But y'all tell me the TC lockup points are those of a pre-F37 program. This probably wouldn't be the first time a dealer has said they did something when they actually hadn't.

In any case, I've only been able to hold it in 4th until 57 mph. Spent an entire day a few days ago fighting my way across Montana against a fierce 30+ mph headwind, and with the trailer in tow, had no choice but to run with OD off, ie in 3rd, with TC locked doing 2500 rpm and 60 mph. Could not hold that speed if I engaged OD, it would slow down, then start shifting to unlocked 3rd, back up to speed and right up to 5th, slow down and back to 3rd. Couldn't hold it in 4th at 57, either. Same cycling 4th to 3rd, back and forth.

This morning, without the headwind, in eastern Washington, had no problem sailing along at 60 in 5th, save for the occasional hill. Temp ran normal or very slightly above until ambient soared. Hit 96 this afternoon according to the bank signs, and it ran hot, just like it had before. I plan to take it in for scheduled oil change in the next few days, and will see about getting the fan clutch replaced.

I heard the fan clutch engage for the first time ever today. It happened twice, once on the highway at speed, and just as the guage hit that last small mark before the H. The other time, we were going only about 15 mph up a driveway to the Ohme Gardens, and there was no missing the sounds it made. While the noise is annoying, I'd much rather have that than an overheating engine, and between you and me, I'd also rather it happened earlier in the cycle!

The stealership also did not flash my trans during the F37.

Course they also managed to not bolt it back together properly - causing me to replace the t/c again a year later.

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2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift 1000. 225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers, Ipod kit & seat covers, Samco hoses - totaled and gone. 2008 WK Laredo 3.0L diesel - AirLift 1000, wife won't let me mess with it much. 2013 JK Sahara on order.

Well, stopped at a Jeep dealer on the road (evidently a consolidation of some sort, as they'd moved in with a Ford dealer a couple blocks up the road) to get the routine oil change done, and the fan clutch issue dealt with. They tell me that not only does the fan clutch not work right, the thermostat doesn't open properly either, so having both replaced. Hope that takes care of the problem.

Oddly expensive thermostat, however. They tell me the part is $140. Most expensive thermostat I've ever replaced, finally beating out the thermostat on my 1969 BMW 2002, which was a unit that carefully mixed hot and cold water from the radiator to insure that the intake to the block was at constant temperature, rather than the normal hot water shut-off unit more commonly used. Maybe this thermostat is similar?

The kicker, however, is that while the fan clutch is something they can get tomorrow, the thermostat has to come from national somewhere, and will take the better part of a week. So I'm having those parts shipped ahead to where I'll be next week. I'll just have to limp gently down the Pacific Coast Highway until I can get connected up with them.

The "thermostat" is the stat inside a giant aluminum housing/elbow which bolts to the engine. Thus why it's so expensive.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

I wonder how the thermostat was diagnosed as not opening properly, without first replacing the fan clutch? The only way I'm aware of to check a thermostat, is to take it out of the vehicle put it in a pan of water with a thermometer and watch at which temp it opens. Can't do that with the CRD thermostat. I would guess that as soon as you get a new fan clutch, all your problems will go away.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.