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 Post subject: Front Diff Broke - HELP!!!
PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 10:31 pm 
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You won't believe how weeny the front diff is on the CRD's. I was crawling and just eased on the throttle a little and POP.
Oil everywhere, 30 miles from the nearest anything. It took 2 other Jeeps in tandem (10 wheel drive) to get me out. Now I'm screwed.
The housing broke right where the front drive shaft meets the diff.

So where can I get a new front diff?
Do the gassers have the same diff?
Anyone know?


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 12:10 am 
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That has been a well known problem on ALL KJs. The KKs got a better built casing (still aluminum) than the KJs because of this problem. A while ago we decided that a "collar" around the tailshaft area where the cracks/explosions happen was a pretty good bandage...and it seems to have been. The CRD could not use the same thickness collar because of the proximity of the housing to other things (the CRD front diff is lower and to the driverside). We did come up with a collar that was not as thick that fit and didn't hit when the diesel engine twisted from the torque. Junkyard would be your best bet since nobody has really come up with a good "substitution" front diff...

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 12:19 am 
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Looking like buying a used front diff is about the only way to go now,Dana/Spicer has stopped making them(about 2 years ago) and the fact that most Chrysler parts are on national backorder with no expected dates.

The D30A in the CRD is the same in all KJ's from '02-'07.Just watch what KJ you get it out of though,a gas 4 banger KJ has 4.10's,gas KJ's with the 6-speed manual has 3.55 gears and you need 3.73's gears.


Oh and lastly the collar was a pipe dream since one already has been blown with a collar on it.The only way to keep them from blowing is to keep one of the front wheels from free spinning then suddenly catching traction(what breaks the diff).


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 12:27 am 
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Well the collar was not a guarantee but it could not hurt and most likely helped some. On my 2002, I treated it pretty ruff but had a DTT installed in the front diff...which kept both front wheels churning instead of spinning and catching. Also a few put an ARB Air Locker in the front which was probably the best insurance.

The only other possible option would be to build a front diff from steel that has the same basic dimensions of the D30a...not an impossible task by any means for a skilled fabricator

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Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 12:44 am 
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The sad part of this was the wheel was not hopping or spinning. I was sneaking up on this rock ledge to crawl up out of the creek bottom, and I just eased on the throttle a tad and the front end was just up about a foot and POP!
This was on the Sun Flower Mine trail, just South of Payson, Arizona. Nasty Nasty trail. I hear it was rated a 3+ or so, but that was before all the rain tore it up. That is no place for a Liberty. Good thing I had friends with 35's, locked all the way around and lifted.
I was able to move on my own power but only in 2WD (only after I got towed out about 20+ miles until it got flat).

So what you all say is: All KJ's front axle's are the same except the gear ratios. I need the 3.73's for the CRD.
That's sort of good news as it shouldn't be too hard to find (maybe).

If anyone knows of one, (Sir Sam), PLEASE let me know.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 1:26 am 
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Inc has one for sale and so does jsc7002

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 3:02 am 
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Hey Turbo Tim- is yours an 05 or 06???
And Inc had that diff assy advertised at $200 shipped!

Good luck on this project--

Roland

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 3:19 am 
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Does ESP activation (specifically Brake Locked Diff 'BLD' function) cause or encourage the breakage? Once a front wheel is off the ground ABS applies the brakes to that wheel to apply torque to both wheels equally. Are the brakes applied against the engine torque the real problem and not a wheel spinning and then grabbing (because even in low range BLD will brake a spinning wheel)?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 4:52 am 
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Been there, done that...
http://jeepetorp.blogg.se/2008/december ... 12-08.html
Image

Did almost the same as Turbo Tim. Slow and easy going up a slippery rock. No wheel bounsing, just some diagonal spin, and POP!!!
I´ve got some help from my enshuranse company, but I did all the work on my own. Bought a used diff. Fairly easy to repair, just a little havy to hold in posision when I was alone in the garage.

I did drive about a week whithout the front axle in place. Only positive thing is that I now know that a free-wheel-lock will not help the fuel consumsion at all...

Good luck. Don´t worry, you will solve this.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 7:44 am 
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Any way to put a solid axle in there, instead?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:05 am 
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flman wrote:
Any way to put a solid axle in there, instead?


One of the forums has a section just about solid front axels on KJ's :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:05 am 
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flman wrote:
Any way to put a solid axle in there, instead?


One of the forums has a section just about solid front axels on KJ's :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:56 am 
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flman wrote:
Any way to put a solid axle in there, instead?
Yep.................
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:30 am 
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SFA is going to cost some serious money, you might as well get a TJ/JK or XJ if you want a SFA. Keep the CRD the way it is and install an ARB locker.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 1:25 pm 
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Mine is a 2005 CRD.

So who is this "INC" outfit? I can't find any info on them/it.

Somebody please post or PM me.

Also if anyone remembers the link for the collar mod I (and many others) would like to see that.
If I remember correctly, I believe they ordered it from Mc Master-Carr and then did a little machining.

If there is enough response for them, maybe I can get a bunch made up for a good price.
I know band-aid or not, the next front diff WILL have one. It can only help.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 1:35 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
flman wrote:
Any way to put a solid axle in there, instead?
Yep.................
Image


I see it will be available soon, how soon?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 3:38 pm 
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TT
Several things:
-- See that diff for sale llnk: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=46751

--I hear replacement is fairly easy in a proper garage environment

--The collar is a topic where if you get one on a CRD front diff sucessfully please post as this would greatly interest me too!

-- Turbo Tim, you were one of the pioneers on SEGR and many here appreciate this and I hope all this does not discourage you on CRD wheeling- stick with it sir!-- I know you are into many things sport automotive (like turbo Japanese engines!)(and sand dune running) so don't give up on Liberty!!
-- Lastly- My unscientific observations show ALL these front diffs failures are KJ's WITHOUT ESP. So having ESP may be saving 06-07's from this type of problem.

Again Good Luck on this=

Roland

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 4:14 pm 
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Silverdiesel wrote:
TT

-- Lastly- My unscientific observations show ALL these front diffs failures are KJ's WITHOUT ESP. So having ESP may be saving 06-07's from this type of problem.

Again Good Luck on this=

Roland


So, if we disable the ESP in our 06's we are putting the front differential at risk?

I was wondering how hard it is to remove the front drive shaft and use a piece of schedule 80 pipe as a collar? 4" schedule 80 steep pipe has an ID of 3.826", OD of 4.50", and a wall thickness of .337". I know the optimum is 3.625 ID, but I read another poster mention taking up the slack with some Hard As Metal epoxy, cant get no tighter fit then that. I have a local surplus dealer in my town, I am going to take a look around there this week and see what I can find. I also have accounts at a few plumbing supplies if I had to buy new pipe. If I can find the pipe, I could buy the metal cutting band saw for my business that I always wanted :wink: , and maybe I could hook every one up with a collar? Of course I will have to wait for the feed back that goes with my pipe dream 1st :?: :idea:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 12:44 am 
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For the 06's, some aspects of the ESP are disabled when we put them in 4-low. The system will still monitor to prevent rollover and stability issues. However, the traction control part is actually disabled to allow wheel spin. If wheeling in 4-high, the traction control part can be disabled by the button. I suppose the 06's have a bit of protection since the computer reduces engine power in conjunction with applying selective braking.

...sorry Tim. Good luck in fixing your rig.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 11:53 am 
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kdlewis1975 wrote:
For the 06's, some aspects of the ESP are disabled when we put them in 4-low. The system will still monitor to prevent rollover and stability issues. However, the traction control part is actually disabled to allow wheel spin. If wheeling in 4-high, the traction control part can be disabled by the button. I suppose the 06's have a bit of protection since the computer reduces engine power in conjunction with applying selective braking.

...sorry Tim. Good luck in fixing your rig.


Somehow I doubt if you have a rollover condition in 4wl that actuating the brakes is going to make much of a difference :)

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