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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 12:10 pm 
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The "BIG" oil filter is the same as the FRAM PH8. Most people do not recommend FRAM, but it is easy to look up in various Oil filter catalogs.

I'm using Purolator Pure One of the same size as PH8A (look up old ford F150 pick up trucks for the quick cross reference). A motorcycle website tore apart several oil filters and declared Puralator as one of the better filters at a reasonable price : See below

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filter ... OilFilters

I think the PH8A size does hang a bit below the engine, but worth the extra capacity and surface area.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 2:41 pm 
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You are correct, same as the readily available PH8A. So many filters choices within that size.
Couldn't find the M1301 anywhere around here (dirty jersey) so will be using the Purolator version. Have the skid row skid plates so I will see how snug it is. Will dump a full 7 qts in. I have run 7 one time before with the TG8317 and didn't feel any crank shaft slosh so figuring the bigger filter will make it fool proof.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 4:03 am 
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NJCRD wrote:
You are correct, same as the readily available PH8A. So many filters choices within that size.
Couldn't find the M1301 anywhere around here (dirty jersey) so will be using the Purolator version. Have the skid row skid plates so I will see how snug it is. Will dump a full 7 qts in. I have run 7 one time before with the TG8317 and didn't feel any crank shaft slosh so figuring the bigger filter will make it fool proof.


I'd be interested in that; I'm fitting the Skid Row plates soon (I have to get them out of the shed sometime!) and I'd like to know if a larger oil filter will fit.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 10:27 am 
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I put the PH8A Purolator equivalent on and am running 7 qts without worries. No crank slosh, no clearance issues with the skid plates. Plenty of room. The dipstick is at the proper level so I'm happy.
Will keep my eyes open for the M1301 when I go out shopping. Usually always have something when I don't need it. Wal-Mart was selling the 302 for $5 clearance price, but not a 301 in my area.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 10:52 pm 
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RJM wrote:
I can not get M1-301 in Canada but pick them up at Wall Mart in Minot North Dakota for 5.99 US on my travels. cheap peace of mind when its -40C. Just my 2 cents!


Are you sure on the $5.99 US ?

After researching oil filters here, I've decided to try the M1 301. I picked one up at Advance Auto Parts for $12.99 + tax.

I've used OEM MOPAR filters since day one, but like the specs and additional capacity of the M1 301.

Greg

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 12:25 pm 
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Fram gets a bad rap from all these websites who cut open a filter and look at it and judge based on what they think would make a good filter.

while Fram does use paper end caps, these folks don't realize that paper end caps are all that's needed for 90+% of the cars and trucks out there. why spend $5 extra for all this metal in there that just gets thrown away in 3-6K miles? the whole filter is made of paper anyway. better a USA made fram than a china made something-else. however i don't use the orange, cheapest fram, those are for 3month-3K oil changes on gassers, for a longer oil change the tough guard is best, has the better synthetic filter media in it, a better bypass design and a better anti-drain back valve. I'm a fan-boy because i know guys who work for Fram and they test them vs all the competitors, and in things that are important, like holding alot of dirt without plugging up, and filter down really small particles on the first pass, fram is right up there at the top.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 12:27 pm 
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nursecosmo wrote:
Over in the FJ Cruiser world, some of the folks had trouble with their oil pressure being too low to open the ADB valve. I would assume that our CRDs have signifficantly higher oil pressure than a FJ. Any input on this? I looked at a Mobil 1 M1 301 today at O'rriles auto. Man that is one big honking manly filter.


Come on! Dont compare our CRD's to an F***ing Jap Cruiser :twisted:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 1:45 pm 
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Quote:
I'm a fan-boy because i know guys who work for Fram and they test them vs all the competitors, and in things that are important, like holding alot of dirt without plugging up, and filter down really small particles on the first pass, fram is right up there at the top.


Sorry Ripple, Cummins released a public statement that stated if you use a FRAM oil filter on any of it's Cummins engines, NO WARRANTY! End of story, Don't call us. (However I do believe they backed off after awhile).

Mopar TSB.
http://www.dodgetrucks.org/docs/TSB/Diesel%20Oil%20Filters.pdf

Fram's reply.
http://www.fram.com/pdf/CumminsBulletin.pdf

Political or not, for a company to single out one manufacturer (Honeywell - bought by Allied Signal - advertised by Honeywell again), there HAD to be something valid about it. I personally know in the off road business, I have seen some come apart.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 4:39 pm 
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Turbo Tim wrote:
Quote:
I'm a fan-boy because i know guys who work for Fram and they test them vs all the competitors, and in things that are important, like holding alot of dirt without plugging up, and filter down really small particles on the first pass, fram is right up there at the top.


Sorry Ripple, Cummins released a public statement that stated if you use a FRAM oil filter on any of it's Cummins engines, NO WARRANTY! End of story, Don't call us. (However I do believe they backed off after awhile).

Mopar TSB.
http://www.dodgetrucks.org/docs/TSB/Diesel%20Oil%20Filters.pdf

Fram's reply.
http://www.fram.com/pdf/CumminsBulletin.pdf

Political or not, for a company to single out one manufacturer (Honeywell - bought by Allied Signal - advertised by Honeywell again), there HAD to be something valid about it. I personally know in the off road business, I have seen some come apart.


I definitely respect alternate points of view. I'm just pointing out that Fram is not as bad as people make it seem, and I'm trying to counter at-least some misinformation. I've meet quite a few people who dislike fram filters, and thats fine with me. but often these folks won't listen to alternate points of view, and when i ask why i never really get a good answer, its just cool to say I hate Fram i guess. besides its easy to plug a filter with dirt and have it crush in, they are only designed to hold 12 grams of dirt. in my original post i acknowledge that fram is not best in some applications, its a product designed to meet very specific requirements, for middle of the road users.

in response to your example, we all know Chrysler is the quality titan, and quickly takes full responsibility when it designs something incorrectly, however, i would counter that Honeywell is the OEM supplier of oil filters to a few quality "leaders" in the north American automotive market, including some Honda engine applications. if they are so bad why does Honda use them?


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 Post subject: The Specification Game Honda & Fram
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 6:56 pm 
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Quote:
in response to your example, we all know Chrysler is the quality titan, and quickly takes full responsibility when it designs something incorrectly, however, i would counter that Honeywell is the OEM supplier of oil filters to a few quality "leaders" in the north American automotive market, including some Honda engine applications. if they are so bad why does Honda use them?


Honda sets their specs and manufactures bid, The low bid who meets the specs gets the order.
Engineers can design what ever the customer wants and Production can build it.
Marketing, Sales, and Beancounters set the Specs for what Fram Production produces for their own market.
I consider their product built to their specs, not good enough for my CRD or my Wife's TDI.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:20 pm 
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Ripple wrote:
I'm just pointing out that Fram is not as bad as people make it seem, and I'm trying to counter at-least some misinformation.


I wouldn't use a FRAM on my CRD or my 2007.5 RAM 3500 MegaCab w/6.7L Cummins personally. I do, however, currently use FRAM (TG16's) on my 2004 Dodge Neon SXT as long as 8k miles with no adverse problems.

I also used FRAM filters on a 1987 Dodge Omni years ago; I bought it used in 1989 with 63k miles and I sold it around 347k miles and it was all good.

Greg

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:05 pm 
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The Amsoil EAA series of filter is awesome. Why bother with a larger one? Add in quality synthetic oil and why bother with anything else?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:31 pm 
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Ripple, I wasn't trying to flame you. I do appreciate your response and others as that is what this forum is for, sharing info.

I guess I didn't paste the correct link, but it was Cummins, not Chrysler that got into the peeing match with Fram.
One would have to guess that "Something" must have happened or they would not have made it public.

I worked for Honeybucket for 20+ years and there is NO quality. (I even got a jacket for it too).

I do like the feedback from others with good info on other products.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 11:17 pm 
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commonly failing anti drain back valves, chunks of glue that dislodge from the pleats, and a cardboard end cap. Why?

This has nothing to do with perception or what is cool, fram sucks. Tg's are ok, but why buy from a mfg that does not care about you?

They spend $$ on adverts and sell bad filters/


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:49 am 
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f28/why- ... rs-897326/

Different forum, same debate :roll:

I am staying away from Fram. Back in the day, when I picked up a 98 TDI it had a Fram Air filter, it was too small for the air box, and allowed dust it the engine. The part number on the filter said it matched as well.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 8:54 am 
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I am not into these kind of mods but if you really want to fit a bigger oil filter, make sure to fill the filter with oil before you put it on. Otherwise your engine will idle quite some time without any lube when you start it up after an oil+filter change

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 11:53 am 
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We don't need to prefill the oil filter on the CRD. Since the filter is below the oil level, it will fill on it's own. Just remove the filter before you drain the oil next time and watch what happens.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 12:10 pm 
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Not to mention any oil poured in will pour back out due to the shallow angle of the filter mount.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:55 am 
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gsbrockman wrote:
RJM wrote:
I can not get M1-301 in Canada but pick them up at Wall Mart in Minot North Dakota for 5.99 US on my travels. cheap peace of mind when its -40C. Just my 2 cents!


Are you sure on the $5.99 US ?

After researching oil filters here, I've decided to try the M1 301. I picked one up at Advance Auto Parts for $12.99 + tax.

I've used OEM MOPAR filters since day one, but like the specs and additional capacity of the M1 301.

Greg


A few times Advance Auto has a $29.95 special for a M1 filter and 5 quarts of M1 oil including the M1 301 and 0w-40. The sale is on here now.
Lewis

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 12:44 pm 
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I am not a Fram Hater but will not put their cheapest filter on any vehicle.
TG's don't seem so bad. I more prefer to buy Porculator pureone or Napa/Wix

amsoil one looks like it will be great too

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