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 Post subject: Tie Rods?
PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 7:11 pm 
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Well, I just bought some Firestone Destination AT's because NOBODY has REVO2's and I didn't want to wait any longer.

Firestone guys said I need new tie rods. My front old tires were worn badly on the inside. That can have something to do with the 4" JBA lift, but the guys at Firestone said the tires were worn due to the tie rods and the lift.

Anyone know if bad tie rods will wear out (or play a major role) the tires on the inner side of the tread?
-------

Price for the tires was $112/each (not bad at all) + all the usual add on costs (new tire state of CO fee, etc...). Getting new tie rods (Inner, outer left, outer right) for another $142+ tax (top quality over standard at Napa $49.99 Inner, $45.99each left/right). Ouch!
Buying both of Ted's ARB's to add to the mix + time to do diff and tranny fluid changes. That's a lot of money all.


I will say this, the Jeep is riding very quiet and smooth with those Destination AT's. I can hear myself think again. Almost too quiet, I think.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 7:30 pm 
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The Destinations are REAL quiet, I installed a set of them soon as I could get the stockers off

And yes the tie rods could cause tire wear if they are loose enough due to movement and not staying where they need to be set at.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 7:35 pm 
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Do tie rods get adjusted during Wheel Alignments?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 7:37 pm 
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Yes they should have to move them to set the toe in/out also to center the steering wheel so its where it should be going straight down the road
Setting the toe should be one of the last things they do. Or at least on the old machines it was. :wink: :lol: :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 8:05 pm 
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Should the inner tie rod be replaced or just the left/right outer rods?

I wonder if after my last alignment (when I got the new tires), the guy screwed things up. I did not have this problem with the MTR's but did with the Bighorns....or the tie rods actually did go bad to cause the bad wear.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 10:22 pm 
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replace whatever is worn out.
Sometimes only one side will wear out, (inner or outer) I have a right side now thats getting worn so need to replace it. I have all 4 in stock so I may do them all and be done ! :wink:

Doubt if he screwed anything up , larger tires and more aggressive tread will wear things out faster also.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 10:31 pm 
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Your lift did heavily accelerate the wear on the tie rod ends,those tie rods are at a pretty extreme angle with that much lift.Make sure they use thread lock on the inner tie rods(where they mount to the rack) and use anti-seize on the outer tie rod ends where the inner tie rod ends screw into the outers.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 11:41 pm 
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Lock in - anti out. I'll be doing the work myself this weekend...I hope.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 11:44 pm 
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You can do it no problem :wink: I have faith in ya! :lol: :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 11:52 pm 
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Tokyojoe wrote:
Lock in - anti out. I'll be doing the work myself this weekend...I hope.
Just a couple of hints.........

1-will need a 12" cresant wrench for the inners
2-turn the steering wheel all the way one way(to it's lock) and do that inner 1st,repeat for the other side since it will gain you alot more room to access the inner tie rod.
3-Remove the outer tie rod end before working on the inner(count # of threads exposed to get alignment close).
4-fully remove the inner boot before removing the inner tie rod.
5-clean the threaded area for the inner tie rod good with brake cleaner before thread locking the new inner.
6-use good HD zip-ties to attach boot,don't go cheap on these.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 8:14 pm 
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Troy, you mention using a 12" crescent wrench. I was watching a video on you tube and the guy mentioned using a specific type of open-end wrench and a very long socket extension with a breaker bar. Are you saying to use the crescent wrench instead of what this guy is saying to use?

I went to Napa and the guy there measured the inner tie rod bolt size and it was 1 1/2"

Ouch! My brain wasn't working. I will need two inner tie rods, not one. Higher quality ones (specs higher than OEM) run $49 and change, each, at NAPA.

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2004 Renegade Light Khaki - 4" JBA Lift - Rock Lizard Products: Komodo Dragon Rear Bumper, Prototype Winch-mount Front Bumper, Super Skink Sliders - All J's Super Tranny Skid II - 31" Firestone Destination AT's on Moab wheels - Cobra 75W CB w/ stock Antenna mod

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:00 pm 
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I would also suggest a 2nd wrench on the rack, so you are not cranking on it (especially if you extend the rack all the way out).

And be prepared to drill out the staking. I just looked at my 07, and the ITR is staked (peened) to the rack pretty good in 2 places.

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