hi guys ,
i am a new to lost, i live in ireland and have been having problems with air at the filter head on my 05 Crd
thanks to your forum on related issues
i have contacted my local dealer who has ordered me a new filter head with modified wiring which will cost 79 pounds Sterling + 11 for the wiring
on a separate note i have been having problems with my front axle which seems to be driving through the driver side wheel on part time 4 wheel drive
i am going to change the front axle oil and add in 2 bottles of an additive that the dealer has recommended

i should know in a few days if the faults are cured

John Boy

Atlantic Blue 05 CRD
41,000 KM
Side Bars
front A bar from a Grand Cherokee

Howdy - Welcome to LOST

somehow sounds expensive.

on the 4wd - if you do not have a limited slip in the front - then it will drive whichever wheel is the easiest to turn - it's an open differential.
if you want both to turn - the Detroit TrueTrac is a great limited slip for the front

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

I have a DTT in front and mine pulls to the right when I'm in FT 4wd.

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2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

???? - the DTT isn't totally locked but close and so both tires will turn the same revolutions at the same time - if you're pulling to the right - then something else is off - either a tire/wheel or alignment - something - the Truetrac in general should try to force you to go straight and make it a harder to turn, not a lot - but noticeable ( I've got DTT's front and rear)

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

only pulls to the right in 4wd, only when I mash the pedal and never did it before the DTT.

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2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

Hi, John. On the topic of the filter head, that equates to roughly $125 or $143 depending on if Sterling is UK pounds or IE pounds (not sure which "Sterling" is...). Regardless, that's not a horrible price, but it's not that great either. The issue with air getting into the head has multiple paths to resolution. Most folks here have gotten a new head or plugged the part that tends to leak (heater plug) and many have added a pump upstream near or in the tank to provide positive pressure, basically making it a self-bleeding system.

Take a look here: http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/racor.htm It's one of the aftermarket options and looks to be nearly identical to the factory part for pre-2005 CRD (assuming Jeep sold pre-2005 CRDs in Ireland and they stock parts). Most folks on this forum who have tried the Parker/RACOR head like the design much better than the 2005+ MOPAR head, and by design, it won't have the same dry-heater issues you are probably seeing (as the heater is immersed in the fuel full-time).

Dan

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2005 Silver CRD Limited
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids

Pound Sterling is the proper name for the "British Pound"

OP: Not a bad price for the OEM unit, but aftermarket units are better than factory, and sometimes cheaper. Follow the like to Dgeist posted, and welcome to LOST.

BTW, if you scroll down a bit further on the page, there is a section devoted to CRDs. Many CRD owners just bypass this forum and stay strictly there, may have a better response if a moderator moves this one???

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-Rich
It must be air in the fuel!