KJ very unhappy

Hood297 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 17, 2010 7:26 pm

Hey guys,

Haven't been on in a while, the new forum scares me.. that and I am currently training for my 100 ton master captains license.

ANY way.. the KJ is unhappy and have been having a few issues.
1. leaking power steering, not that big of a deal to me, and not a serious leak

2. leaking oil, this is bad enough to bother the he** out of me. I believe i have traced it to the passenger side rear of the valve cover gasket, because when looking up everything south of the rear passenger valve cover is oily. I've been lookign at it and it looks easy to replace once you get them off, its that whole getting them off, looks like some steel radiator lines need to move.

anyone done this? tips? torque specs? should i just get a whole valve job done since im a hair over 120,xxx?

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 17, 2010 7:52 pm

i assume you've tried tightening it up a hair?

if you can afford it, i personally would do gaskets and valves on both sides, it's barely arguable that our valves are the weakest mechanical component of the 3.7

i dont remember where the OSU is on the 3.7, often when oil starts to leak profusely that's what it is

Budke · **Posted:** Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:07 pm

JeepinJarhead03 wrote:

i assume you've tried tightening it up a hair?

if you can afford it, i personally would do gaskets and valves on both sides, it's barely arguable that our valves are the weakest mechanical component of the 3.7

i dont remember where the OSU is on the 3.7, often when oil starts to leak profusely that's what it is

I do believe its right above the oil filter. Or somewhere close to it. But I think its above.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:16 pm

yea ya probably right on it being on the driver side

Hood297 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:47 pm

JeepinJarhead03 wrote:

i assume you've tried tightening it up a hair?

if you can afford it, i personally would do gaskets and valves on both sides, it's barely arguable that our valves are the weakest mechanical component of the 3.7

i dont remember where the OSU is on the 3.7, often when oil starts to leak profusely that's what it is

No I havent tightened it, didnt want to over torque anything. by osu Im assuming the oil sending unit? It's definately not leaking near the oil filter... yet (knocks on wood).

Id like to do this myself, but I'm sure valves arent a DIY kinda thing...

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 18, 2010 12:46 am

they're doable (the valves), just depends on how much time and resources you have, resources being certain tools and/or someone local to give you a hand that is familiar with the process

I don't think the valve guides are serviceable through conventional means though

give the valve cover bolts a 1/4 turn with a 3/8ths ratchet using one hand, if it feels tight leave it alone, if it turns freely tighten it till it starts to give some resistance and then give it a 1/4 turn and see if your oil sieve slows down a bit

ill have to find the actual torque measurements for the valve covers but you aren't going to break anything with that method, it's pretty much SOP without a torque wrench

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 18, 2010 1:01 am

valve cover bolt torque specs is 12 N-m or 105 in. lbs (don't misread that as 105 ft. lbs)

Hood297 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 18, 2010 2:42 am

im glad you reiterated INCH lbs. so would that work out to be 8.75 Ft lbs?

Im goin to try tightening them, and then i guess pool my resources and see if I cant do a halfa** valve job and gasket replacement if that doesnt work..

synthetic oil burning has a very unique smell.. :lol:

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 18, 2010 2:44 am

smells like .. Cheese Wax burning lol

The wiring harness grommet on the drivers side pushed through at some point and i haven't managed to get it back in.. mostly because i can't reach the **** thing lol

every so often if i'm in traffic with the wind blowin towards me i'll get a good whiff of it and have to roll down the windows

10ish ft/lbs should be safe which is probably what your torque wrench will have in 5 lb increments and it probably won't be very accurate at that level unless it's electronic, or a micro

stevebaz · **Joined:** Mon Jan 18, 2010 11:25 am **Posts:** 10

Hood297,
Might check your pvc system, if it doesn't work properly the unvented blowbye pressure inside the engine will push oil out the weakest seals and gaskits like the valve covers, pan gaskits and main seals. Also if oil is leaking any dirt sticking to it will actually enable even more oil to wick out. Sometimes a good cleaning will stop or manage small leaks. Leaving it dirty will make the leak worse.
Steve

jeepskate · **Posted:** Tue Jan 19, 2010 2:51 am

JeepinJarhead03 wrote:

The wiring harness grommet on the drivers side pushed through at some point and i haven't managed to get it back in.. mostly because i can't reach the **** thing lol

Hah. I thought I was the only one who'd done that. Mine is stuffed full of RTV sealant now. I'd love to figure out an easy way to get at that thing so I could fix it right.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 19, 2010 3:01 am

grow arms like those dudes in that Legion movie lol

Hood297 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 19, 2010 7:00 pm

stevebaz wrote:

Hood297,
Might check your pvc system, if it doesn't work properly the unvented blowbye pressure inside the engine will push oil out the weakest seals and gaskits like the valve covers, pan gaskits and main seals. Also if oil is leaking any dirt sticking to it will actually enable even more oil to wick out. Sometimes a good cleaning will stop or manage small leaks. Leaving it dirty will make the leak worse.
Steve

Im assuming your talking about the pcv valve? I changed it not too long ago, but its soo cheap I will try that too, although it maybe too late now huh?

KJ very unhappy

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